Torque Wrench

billyhead

Is one of these a neccessity to have when owning carbon bikes and if so can you kind folks recommend a good value one that will do the job. I don't plan on making any adjustments to the stem, seatpost or handlebars on the bike as they fit exactly right at the moment so if I ever planned down the line a bit of tweaking I would problay just take the bike to the local Bike shop so would investing in a torque wrench still be worthwhile.

Diggabot

billyhead wrote: »

Is one of these a neccessity to have when owning carbon bikes and if so can you kind folks recommend a good value one that will do the job. I don't plan on making any adjustments to the stem, seatpost or handlebars on the bike as they fit exactly right at the moment so if I ever planned down the line a bit of tweaking I would problay just take the bike to the local Bike shop so would investing in a torque wrench still be worthwhile.

I got one of these Topeak ones, was only €20 on eBay. I just swapped out a carbon seatpost and stem and it was ideal.

http://www.topeak.com/products/Homeshop-Tools/combotorq_bit_set

seamus

I have a bad habit of way overtightening bolts for fear of things coming loose, so I've managed to crush alu handlebars on the stem clamp. I found the torque wrench really handy even for non-carbon parts. Once you've tightened it to the stated force, you don't need to worry about whether it's tight enough.

I got one of these; http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-torque-wrench-2-24n-m/rp-prod11142

Works just great. Though you do need to get your hands on a decent set of allen bits or you can still round the bolts.

Koobcam

The Tackx one mentioned above is more or less the same as the Canyon ones, which I find ideal. Good idea to use one and if you're planning on doing your own bike building and maintenance then a good idea to get a proper one, which will set you back 70-80 euros, BBB or pro, you'll find them on Bikecomponents.de

thekooman

seamus wrote: »

I have a bad habit of way overtightening bolts for fear of things coming loose, so I've managed to crush alu handlebars on the stem clamp. I found the torque wrench really handy even for non-carbon parts. Once you've tightened it to the stated force, you don't need to worry about whether it's tight enough.

I got one of these; http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-torque-wrench-2-24n-m/rp-prod11142

Works just great. Though you do need to get your hands on a decent set of allen bits or you can still round the bolts.

i've one of those x-tool wrenches and so far its been very good.

bikermartin

I have one of thoose also. I had a problem getting the 1/4 drive allen keys though. i already had the x tools tool set for about 65 euros but it had 3/8 drive bits in it. I eventually got an 1/4 to 3/8 drive adaptor off e bay. I also got a 1/4 drive set,allen key etc from lidl i think it was for 20 euros so now im well set up with tools if i use them that much

jimgoose

B&Q sell "Torq" brand ones in 1/4'', 3/8'' and 1/2'' drive sizes. I got all three last year or so for €100 the lot. As far as I can tell they're manufactured by the same outfit as the Lazer and Draper Expert ones.

doozerie

In addition to "proper" torque wrenches I also have a fixed version of this Ritchey one - my Ritchey one doesn't have interchangeable bits, it just has a single 5mm (or 6mm, can't quite remember) hex bit permanently fixed into it. I find that I reach for the Ritchey one most often, it's just really convenient, and small, and is often just the right torque (and hex key size) for stems and seat clamps. That version with interchangeable bits seems good value assuming the hex bits are a snug fit in the socket (if not then it'll throw the torque figures off, though probably not enough to cause problems).

billyhead

doozerie wrote: »

In addition to "proper" torque wrenches I also have a fixed version of this Ritchey one - my Ritchey one doesn't have interchangeable bits, it just has a single 5mm (or 6mm, can't quite remember) hex bit permanently fixed into it. I find that I reach for the Ritchey one most often, it's just really convenient, and small, and is often just the right torque (and hex key size) for stems and seat clamps. That version with interchangeable bits seems good value assuming the hex bits are a snug fit in the socket (if not then it'll throw the torque figures off, though probably not enough to cause problems).

Sorry if its a stupid question but would the Richie torque work with any make of bike such as the Trek I have with all Bontrager parts.

doozerie

billyhead wrote: »

Sorry if its a stupid question but would the Richie torque work with any make of bike such as the Trek I have with all Bontrager parts.

Yes, assuming that:

* the preset torque limit of the Ritchey tool (it is available in a 5Nm version and a 4Nm version) matches that of the parts of your bike you plan to use it on. 5Nm is common for a lot of stems and seat clamps, but not all.

* the hex/allen keys that come with the tool fit the bolts on your bike. The sizes of bolt used for stems and seat clamps are fairly standard, usually.

billyhead

doozerie wrote: »

Yes, assuming that:

* the preset torque limit of the Ritchey tool (it is available in a 5Nm version and a 4Nm version) matches that of the parts of your bike you plan to use it on. 5Nm is common for a lot of stems and seat clamps, but not all.

* the hex/allen keys that come with the tool fit the bolts on your bike. The sizes of bolt used for stems and seat clamps are fairly standard, usually.

Hi,

The seat clamp on the bike is 5.2Nm and the stem I have is the one on the link below. It does not confirm what Nm it is/ Do you think it would be compatible with the Richey Torque key?:)
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bontrager/2013-race-lite-7-degree-rise-318mm-stem-ec044770#features

doozerie

billyhead wrote: »

Hi,

The seat clamp on the bike is 5.2Nm and the stem I have is the one on the link below. It does not confirm what Nm it is/ Do you think it would be compatible with the Richey Torque key?:)
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bontrager/2013-race-lite-7-degree-rise-318mm-stem-ec044770#features

According to this, that stem has a max torque of 13.5Nm (or 11.3Nm if clamping a carbon part). That's much higher than I would have expected, and is well beyond the range of the Ritchey torque key.

If you don't have carbon handlebars, or a carbon steerer on your forks, then I'd not bother with a torque key for the stem, I'd just use a regular allen key. There is a fair bit of leeway in reality, just don't swing out of the allen key when tightening (and where there is more than one bolt clamping a single part then tighten each bolt gradually until you get to full tightness, don't just fully tighten one before tackling the next one), and you should be fine.

billyhead

Thanks a mil for all the advice:)

doozerie

Just to add, if you are concerned about whether you've adequately tightened the bolts holding the handlebars to the stem, then stand in front of the bike and put your full weight down on the brake hoods. If the handlebars don't rotate under that kind of pressure then it's likely they are tight enough. A further test is to use a jarring motion against the hoods rather then applying gradual pressure, to try to simulate the kind of impact force you'd involuntarily apply to the handlebars if you hit a pothole unexpectedly for example.

spyderski

Ahah! By "a jarring motion" you mean "bang the sh1t out of the bars & see if they move" !