makita circular saw problem

f140

bought a Makita circular saw a year ago and I cant seem to figure it out. if I was cutting a 6x3 timber it gets caught half way in and gets half stuck? cant see why. I end up coming in from the other side to finish cutting it. any ideas? its just impossible to push it after half ways?

newhouse

the blade is your problem, although surpriseing that it so new. sticking half way too is caused by damp/wet timber aswell

f140

newhouse wrote: »

the blade is your problem, although surpriseing that it so new. sticking half way too is caused by damp/wet timber aswell

it has done sweet f all work. meant to get some lad to look at it cutting that knows but keep forgetting. wouldn't have cut 20 pieces yet. timber could be bone dry and only 1 inch thick and it gets stuck.

O.A.P

Is it the skill saw you mean ?
They are the best make imo but the come new with a rubbish blade that last 5 minutes on a job.
The knife at the back of the blade is not needed either two bolts to take it off and they are quick to bend in the wrong hands, causing problems like you have.

5T3PH3N

Is the blade spinning or just bogging down?
If the blade is spinning then the riving knife could be bent and is preventing the blade from progressing through the timber.

Are you sure the timber is supported correctly so that as you get a certain distance into the cut the timber doesn't close on itself and cause the blade to bind or get pinched.

Suckler

O.A.P wrote: »

The knife at the back of the blade is not needed either two bolts to take it off and they are quick to bend in the wrong hands, causing problems like you have.

Riving knife is definately needed, especially as he's experiencing the blade getting stuck.

Suckler

f140 wrote: »

bought a Makita circular saw a year ago and I cant seem to figure it out. if I was cutting a 6x3 timber it gets caught half way in and gets half stuck? cant see why. I end up coming in from the other side to finish cutting it. any ideas? its just impossible to push it after half ways?

May seem a stupid question but have you the timber properly supported? Check the teeth on the blade, a mate of mine was complaining the the saw I had given him a lend of was a piece of sh1te, checked the blade and there wasn't 4 teeth left on it whatever he was at with it.

colrow

I had one of these, and had a similar problem, there was a little lock yoke wasn't fully pulled out, and this stopped the blade going back to its full depth.

When its switched off does can you push the blade right back in ?

O.A.P

Suckler wrote: »

Riving knife is definately needed, especially as he's experiencing the blade getting stuck.

I remove it every time and change the blade on new saws out of the box. I don't know how many brand new ones I was the first to use over the years 10 or so probably.
So I definitely and without a shadow of doubt do not need that knife on a skil saw

jack of all

Riving knife is there for a reason- if cutting a piece of wood without it there is a possibility that the saw cut can close up behind the blade (due to tension in the wood), pinch the blade and cause kick-back. An experienced user might expect and anticipate kick-back and react accordingly but if a novice or using a saw infrequently kick-back can be a nasty surprise. I wouldn't use any powered circular saw (portable or table mounted) without a riving knife, I like my fingers!

Miname

Like was said above the riving knife is needed. The blade that comes with the saw is meant for cross cutting, you need a blade for ripping. Don't take the knife off if your not used to it, even at that I seen a lad cut through bone and all when a saw kicked. He had over 30 years experience and that finished his trade days.

conor t

are you sure your cutting straight?

Muckit

'Skil' saws are a dangerous yoke. I hate using them. But there are times that they need to be used.

PLUG IT OUT! Ensure firstly that the blade is the right way around and SHARP. Your blade could well be blunt if you've being cutting dirty timber, ie timber with nails or timber used for casing with bits of concrete stuck to it.

Then adjust the depth correctly so that it's set just a little more than the thickness of timber you are cutting.

Ensure the guard is free and is springing back fully when released. If it doesn't it'll be eating dirt when you drop it to the floor and you'll have a blunt blade and/or be minus a few toes!

Check the riving knife is not loose and also eye it to ensure it isn't kinked and following the blade perfectly. This can easily happen when it gets a fall or is thrown into the back of a van. The riving knife is there for a reason (as previously explained) and should NOT BE REMOVED. There is no advantage to removing it only disadvantages.

If this troubleshooting list doesn't sort you, take it to a dealer or someone used to fixing these tools. It could be something simple or as people said the way you are using it. You need to support your work correctly.

Miname

The next time your ripping just cut in a bit and drive a flat screwdriver into the cut and it will keep the pieces a bit further apart and stop the saw sticking.

newhouse

i still think its the blade/teeth, not creating enough clearence as you cut. you must have hit something to damage the teeth earlier, one visit to your suppiler should sort it