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Mounting Shocks

  • 12-01-2014 7:00pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,906 ✭✭✭


    So I braved the elements today to replace the shocks on our Honda Stream, and all was going well until I went to mount the lower part of the shock to the knuckle.

    Alas, when trying to connect the shock to the knuckle, the original bolt was 16mm and the hole in the shock is only 14mm, so it didn't fit. Now these shocks are specifically for the Honda Stream and nothing else, so I'm not impressed. I've contacted KYB for a response, but I'm not sure of the outcome.

    Do you reckon I could get a 16mm hold drilled into these to get them to fit? If so where? This is strong steel.

    Also, you might be thinking just get another vendor of shock? Well KYB are the only one I can find doing shocks for a Stream.

    Here's a video of the issue:



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Apart from the bolts passing through the holes, do the holes line up with the "knuckle" as you call it?

    If they do and its a perfect fit otherwise, why don't you just use a circular file to widen the holes by the 1mm all round?

    That should be good to go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,906 ✭✭✭jayok


    Avns1s wrote: »
    Apart from the bolts passing through the holes, do the holes line up with the "knuckle" as you call it?

    Thanks for the reply, yes the holes seem to line up, but are just too small. In otherwords the centre of each hole is the same point with the wheel knuckle, but the KYB mounting holes are just too small.

    Didn't think of the file, but this would need to be perfectly even to ensure an exact fit, hence the notion of using a 16mm drill bit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    jayok wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply, yes the holes seem to line up, but are just too small. In otherwords the centre of each hole is the same point with the wheel knuckle, but the KYB mounting holes are just too small.

    Didn't think of the file, but this would need to be perfectly even to ensure an exact fit, hence the notion of using a 16mm drill bit.

    Just take a little bit all the way round till the bolt fits. Use the "knuckle" as a template. You're removing 1mm all the way round the hole to get from 14 mm to 16mm so its not a lot really. It should be easy enough to keep them centred.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭dooroy


    You could wait for a reply from the manufacturer/supplier .
    If you decide to go ahead and fit them then I would advise you to either get a 16mm bit and drill them out yourself or bring the shocks to someone to have it done .
    Trying to enlarge the holes centrally with a file can take ages:( - you have 8 holes to be enlarged I presume so quite a bit of metal to be removed.
    Have experience of this in the past - a right PITA:D.
    If you choose to drill them the bit will pretty much center itself - will only take a few mins ; just make sure the shock is held firmly .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭cgarrad


    I'd just drill them, they are not a structural part.

    Draw an eighteen mm circle around the 14mm hole to keep the drill bit centred

    If you make a mess use a heavy gauge washer


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,906 ✭✭✭jayok


    Thanks for the replies all. I need to make sure the strength of the metal isn't affected by the drilling, that's all.
    cgarrad wrote: »
    I'd just drill them, they are not a structural part.

    Errr... these bolts and holes hold the front knuckle onto the shock that supports the weight of the car and the forces of the steering. While not strictly structural, I wouldn't like them to fail at any speed or the front wheel will head off on it's own.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭cgarrad


    jayok wrote: »
    Thanks for the replies all. I need to make sure the strength of the metal isn't affected by the drilling, that's all.



    Errr... these bolts and holes hold the front knuckle onto the shock that supports the weight of the car and the forces of the steering. While not strictly structural, I wouldn't like them to fail at any speed or the front wheel will head off on it's own.

    The wishbone holds the wheel, the shock just stops too much bouncing on the axle spring.

    If the shock fell off the handling would degrade but the wheel would not come off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    cgarrad wrote: »
    I'd just drill them, they are not a structural part.

    Draw an eighteen mm circle around the 14mm hole to keep the drill bit centred

    If you make a mess use a heavy gauge washer

    LOL - just no

    They are a "structural" part

    - and the bolt holes have an effect on the camber
    - if you go drilling/filing it out, it may not leave enough material around the holes
    - if it breaks , you die.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 57 ✭✭Bugnut


    ^ WHS

    Drill them out - they will be fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    cgarrad wrote: »
    The wishbone holds the wheel, the shock just stops too much bouncing on the axle spring.

    If the shock fell off the handling would degrade but the wheel would not come off.

    In the OP's setup, if the shock came off the handling wouldn't just degrade. It would disappear instantly.

    The front wheel would lean in at the top to the point that the wheel would catch the inside of the wing or that the now exposed suspension would tear along the road. Either way, you'll come to a stop in a very uncontrolled fashion.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    There looks to be plenty of material around the holes in the shock, at least enough to safely drill the hole enough to fit the bolts.
    Once they are torqued down they should be fine, if you go for a smaller diameter bolt they may not be strong enough for the job, this would be more critical to my mind then a slightly larger diameter bolthole in the shock.
    Take them to an engineering workshop and ask them to drill them out to the correct size for the bolt.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,906 ✭✭✭jayok


    Thanks for all the feedback folks.

    I'll bring the old and new shock to the engineering workshop and see what they say. This component cannot fail :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Just out of interest, have you measured the distance from the edge of the hole to the edge of the shock on both old and new shocks?
    If the hole centres are the same on both shocks apart from Ø and the space to the edge of the shock is larger then it should be not problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 501 ✭✭✭burke027


    jayok wrote: »
    Thanks for the replies all. I need to make sure the strength of the metal isn't affected by the drilling, that's all.



    Errr... these bolts and holes hold the front knuckle onto the shock that supports the weight of the car and the forces of the steering. While not strictly structural, I wouldn't like them to fail at any speed or the front wheel will head off on it's own.


    All joking aside what is a KNUCKLE


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,906 ✭✭✭jayok


    Ok, spoke to KYB tech support this afternoon about this, he strongly recommended AGAINST drilling a 16mm hole through this as there is insufficient material around the remanding brace to guarantee the strength of the shock. He explained that on the OE shock the curve of the joint was rounded for additional strength and this wasn't present on the aftermarket one. He advised that the shocks be returned for a full refund and unfortunately KYB cannot supply a shock for my car. To be fair, he was quite helpful.

    So it looks like Honda originals at twice the price. :(
    burke027 wrote: »
    All joking aside what is a KNUCKLE

    It's the bit that connects the lower wishbone to the strut and hold the wheel bearing and driveshaft along with the caliper, etc. Some people might call it a wheel hub.

    See the picture. I've marked in Red where the strut connects and this is where I've the hole size issue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    jayok wrote: »
    Ok, spoke to KYB tech support this afternoon about this, he strongly recommended AGAINST drilling a 16mm hole through this as there is insufficient material around the remanding brace to guarantee the strength of the shock. He explained that on the OE shock the curve of the joint was rounded for additional strength and this wasn't present on the aftermarket one. He advised that the shocks be returned for a full refund and unfortunately KYB cannot supply a shock for my car. To be fair, he was quite helpful.

    So it looks like Honda originals at twice the price. :(


    Monroe List Reflex shocks to fit the Stream E4634 is their code.
    Reflex are only sold in Pairs though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,906 ✭✭✭jayok


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Monroe List Reflex shocks to fit the Stream E4634 is their code.
    Reflex are only sold in Pairs though

    And these are also incorrect for my Stream. There's no after market available for the Stream. This is only for the early 99-00 1.7 models out of Japan. Later models 01-05 uses the 16mm mounting bolt

    Thanks though.


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