What do ye reckon about this shed?

Conmaicne Mara

http://lizburton.co.uk/wordpress/work-on-the-smallholding/building-a-pole-barn-part-1/

That size would do me for a little shed to lamb down the couples. I would use the concrete pier idea, not sure how I'd go about the strapping with the concrete as in what to use. Reason for that is it was suggested to me to use 7x3 timbers mostly as timber the same size would be easy to work with. I would use two 7x3's together for the uprights. Cut one a little short to place a horizontal rafter into the slot if ye know what I mean. (missed out on telegraph poles, they all seemed to be sold before I got out of bed ).

One thing I wonder about is have they left the shed too wide for the roof(18 feet) without internal pillars? (thinking snow) It looks to me that they have added one pillar to each end from the finished photo.

Any other thoughts or observations

No AEOS or DAS in the kitty yet so it's not quite urgent :rolleyes:

Would a steel building of similar size be got for the same money?

Miname

There are easier and cheaper ways of putting up a shed. A few girders and 7 x 3 s are always the best option. For the matter of all the hardship involved make sure a tractor can be used comfortably.

Conmaicne Mara

Miname wrote: »

There are easier and cheaper ways of putting up a shed. A few girders and 7 x 3 s are always the best option. For the matter of all the hardship involved make sure a tractor can be used comfortably.

I am all ears, money is an issue though.

(excluding a polytunnel at the moment, paranoid about the roof being vandalised :rolleyes: :rolleyes: )

Miname

Maybe try build half a shed leaving the high side open for you to put a second half on down the road if you can understand me. Two bay shed would need 3 no 12 ft uprights for the back 3 no say 14 ft uprights for the front run the rafters out 8 ft over the front uprights . You can then throw a mirror image onto it when money allows and you would have a serious shed. If you were to give yourself a 16 ft pen between the uprights you would need around 1200 for steel including cleats and all. 150 for bolts and fixings 300 for purlins and then whatever you can get the sheeting at. 3.50 a ft is about as cheap per foot for new stuff. For space boarding strip and save a heap of pallets or just sheet to the ground. Once the frame is right you can add or alter as much as you like

bob charles

would love to self build a pole barn in years to come when I have time. they really look the part in my eyes and there are some of them around here standing over a hundred year

http://www.knappfarmbuildings.co.uk/Agricultural.htm#General%20Purpose

not getting much back from google on images of scottish pole barns. There must be specialist builder who have pictures up that show how they are build. Some free ESB poles would be a serious start

bob charles

and ti go off thread, when I have money

http://inhabitat.com/bucolic-vejlskovgaard-stable-is-like-club-med-for-300-dairy-cows-in-denmark/vejlskovgaard-stable-by-lumo-architects-08/?extend=1

moy83

bob charles wrote: »

and ti go off thread, when I have money

http://inhabitat.com/bucolic-vejlskovgaard-stable-is-like-club-med-for-300-dairy-cows-in-denmark/vejlskovgaard-stable-by-lumo-architects-08/?extend=1

After all you said about hugos ideas , you throw out a fancy pants plan like that yourself :P

bob charles

moy83 wrote: »

After all you said about hugos ideas , you throw out a fancy pants plan like that yourself :P

would Hugo be able for the design? I taught he is more arty farty, working with young affluent mums

Reggie.

bob charles wrote: »

and ti go off thread, when I have money

http://inhabitat.com/bucolic-vejlskovgaard-stable-is-like-club-med-for-300-dairy-cows-in-denmark/vejlskovgaard-stable-by-lumo-architects-08/?extend=1

thats like a spa retreat for cattle

Conmaicne Mara

ah lads, it's page 1, can we focus a little

moy83

bob charles wrote: »

would Hugo be able for the design? I taught he is more arty farty, working with young affluent mums

Not a bother to him , he might even squeeze in a hot tub under a rooflight for the yummy mummies to use when you're giving them the tour of the place

Reggie.

thats bobs fault again :cool:

Conmaicne Mara

Miname wrote: »

Maybe try build half a shed leaving the high side open for you to put a second half on down the road if you can understand me. Two bay shed would need 3 no 12 ft uprights for the back 3 no say 14 ft uprights for the front run the rafters out 8 ft over the front uprights . You can then throw a mirror image onto it when money allows and you would have a serious shed. If you were to give yourself a 16 ft pen between the uprights you would need around 1200 for steel including cleats and all. 150 for bolts and fixings 300 for purlins and then whatever you can get the sheeting at. 3.50 a ft is about as cheap per foot for new stuff. For space boarding strip and save a heap of pallets or just sheet to the ground. Once the frame is right you can add or alter as much as you like

(eventually) Like two lean to's with over hangs facing each other type of affair you mean?

I'm not up on bay widths, what dimensions are we talking here, am thinking it's 32 x something?

Reggie.

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

(eventually) Like two lean to's with over hangs facing each other type of affair you mean?

I'm not up on bay widths, what dimensions are we talking here, am thinking it's 32 x something?

ive something similar to that built here without the overhang. Remind me tomorrow and ill stick up some pics. The shed is 35ft x 30ft and 14ft at front to 12ft at the back.

moy83

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

ah lads, it's page 1, can we focus a little

Sorry Con . Would you be going high with the roof ? I dont know how strong the 7 x 3 timber would be as uprights

Conmaicne Mara

Ideally twelve foot at the lowest, the high end would depend on roof length/slope I suppose?

Sisters other half is a builder and was the one suggesting the two 7x3's together as uprights, I am a bit leery of the suggestion to be honest. High winds and snow loads would be my main concern. I know we don't get either often, but once is enough.

Reggie.

moy83 wrote: »

Sorry Con . Would you be going high with the roof ? I dont know how strong the 7 x 3 timber would be as uprights

Min 9x3 i reckon or keep an eye out for the poles but i think time is an issue aint it

Conmaicne Mara

Reggie. wrote: »

Min 9x3 i reckon or keep an eye out for the poles but i think time is an issue aint it

Yeah, I want it for lambing which should commence 20th March.

All that is dependent on AEOS and DAS being in my bank account, which is by no means guaranteed to happen in a timely fashion in my experience.

In the mean time I have to pull the finger out and make decisions, price materials and get a plan together. No point in having a wedge of money and no notion how to spend it.

moy83

moy83 wrote: »

Sorry Con . Would you be going high with the roof ? I dont know how strong the 7 x 3 timber would be as uprights

I just looked again and you said you were thinking of using two together so it might be a bit stronger
Would you chance building blocks on the three sides with four block pillars ? Im not sure if it would be any cheaper though

Reggie.

moy83 wrote: »

I just looked again and you said you were thinking of using two together so it might be a bit stronger
Would you chance building blocks on the three sides with four block pillars ? Im not sure if it would be any cheaper though

on thing about timber is that it can rot easily over time compared to poles which are treated half to death, so would last a lot longer

Conmaicne Mara

No @ blocks, prefer a metal of timber structure, just handier in my own mind and I think they look better, plus neither require foundation like what blocks would need.

Conmaicne Mara

Steel would be great, if I could bolt it to the concrete piers. Galvanised better but I know I can't afford that.

moy83

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

No @ blocks, prefer a metal of timber structure, just handier in my own mind and I think they look better, plus neither require foundation like what blocks would need.

Will you sheet all the way down to the ground ? The timber or steel would be put up a bit quicker alright , I would be leaning towards the steel over the timber

Miname

Reggie. wrote: »

Min 9x3 i reckon or keep an eye out for the poles but i think time is an issue aint it

A 7 x 3 wouldn't be worth a monkeys unless it was tied and braced into just about every possible section. Your right about the 32 ft and the bay width could be whatever suits you for handiness I just guesstimated it around 16 foot. The only advice if your buying materials is shop around . Clifden is about as dear a place asit gets to buy building materials . And there's not many options between there and Galway. Did you try the lad on done deal in Meath. He's pretty right on shed prices.

Conmaicne Mara

moy83 wrote: »

Will you sheet all the way down to the ground ? The timber or steel would be put up a bit quicker alright , I would be leaning towards the steel over the timber

I would probably sheet the back of it all the way down and face it towards the worst of the wind, Yorkshire boarding or a mix of sheet and boarding for the sides and possibly front also, we get weather from all sides

Reggie.

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

Steel would be great, if I could bolt it to the concrete piers. Galvanised better but I know I can't afford that.

Bury the steel in the ground and surrond them with concrete (Ive a metre of concrete around each of my uprights and they are 3 feet in the ground)
Then get your level on all front uprights and then measure up 14ft or what on each and instant level front and repeat for the back.
Run 9x3s from front to back uprights and then 6x3s as your purlins and for your side sheeting.
Then just screw your sheeting straight to your timbers.

Conmaicne Mara

Miname wrote: »

A 7 x 3 wouldn't be worth a monkeys unless it was tied and braced into just about every possible section. Your right about the 32 ft and the bay width could be whatever suits you for handiness I just guesstimated it around 16 foot. The only advice if your buying materials is shop around . Clifden is about as dear a place asit gets to buy building materials . And there's not many options between there and Galway. Did you try the lad on done deal in Meath. He's pretty right on shed prices.

You are 100% not wrong there

Will have a look on DD now.

bob charles

dont use 7X3 as uprights whatever happens, even 2 put together wouldnt be worth a .... . if you want to go cheap its do able, you will just have to keep your eyes open. Friend of mine has a shed nearly complete, and allot of the upright in a previous life were motorway signs poles (and no he didnt rob them). Keep your eye peeled on done deal. I have a shed leased and the guy that owns it was a serious man to keep costs down. One corner of the shed is build with a JCB back actor. Its 40 years standing so its stood the test of time

Reggie.

bob charles wrote: »

dont use 7X3 as uprights whatever happens, even 2 put together wouldnt be worth a .... . if you want to go cheap its do able, you will just have to keep your eyes open. Friend of mine has a shed nearly complete, and allot of the upright in a previous life were motorway signs poles (and no he didnt rob them). Keep your eye peeled on done deal. I have a shed leased and the guy that owns it was a serious man to keep costs down. One corner of the shed is build with a JCB back actor. Its 40 years standing so its stood the test of time

Snap
Ill take it that they are the 12" ones

moy83

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

I would probably sheet the back of it all the way down and face it towards the worst of the wind, Yorkshire boarding or a mix of sheet and boarding for the sides and possibly front also, we get weather from all sides

Id say the sheeting could rot fairly quick if its down to the ground , even a concrete strip all along the ground would help to keep it up and to stop charlie scrapping under if he hears lambs inside .

bob charles

Reggie. wrote: »

Snap
Ill take it that they are the 12" ones

the uprights for the shed are 12", and the front barriers for the cattle are 9", the stub wall that they will be eating out over is half inch pylon driver of some description of sorts. This shed isnt going to fall anyway. He has 5 bays done including everything (professional welder employed) for about a thousand:cool:

Reggie.

bob charles wrote: »

the uprights for the shed are 12", and the front barriers for the cattle are 9", the stub wall that they will be eating out over is half inch pylon driver of some description of sorts. This shed isnt going to fall anyway. He has 5 bays done including everything (professional welder employed) for about a thousand:cool:

i think my shed cost about 2 thousand all in finished but i had to get a fella to sheet mine as i hadnt the time to do it myself only for that id be looking around the 1200 mark

bob charles

Reggie. wrote: »

i think my shed cost about 2 thousand all in finished but i had to get a fella to sheet mine as i hadnt the time to do it myself only for that id be looking around the 1200 mark

that explains why there are no signs for Kinnegad, tyrellspass,kilbeggan on the N6

Reggie.

bob charles wrote: »

that explains why there are no signs for Kinnegad, tyrellspass,kilbeggan on the N6

dont know what your on about sir *cough* *cough* :cool:

Conmaicne Mara

moy83 wrote: »

Id say the sheeting could rot fairly quick if its down to the ground , even a concrete strip all along the ground would help to keep it up and to stop charlie scrapping under if he hears lambs inside .

Sorry, yes, there would be a concrete strip. I wouldn't have it going down to the grass/wet. I will need a small wall I believe

Farmer

bob charles wrote: »

that explains why there are no signs for Kinnegad, tyrellspass,kilbeggan on the N6

It'd be no harm to take down some of them anyway. I live near a section of N road with nothing only a few plain T junctions along it. Yet it's a pure distraction to drive with dazzling signs for everything . They're nearly close enough to drop a few purlins on as they are

Bodacious

don't know if my calving shed would count as a pole barn but its made from Esb poles, 14ft x 22ft and withstood those recent winds and its a stone throw from the tide!

Conmaicne Mara

Bodacious wrote: »

don't know if my calving shed would count as a pole barn but its made from Esb poles, 14ft x 22ft and withstood those recent winds and its a stone throw from the tide!

I have your old photos saved on the laptop

Bodacious

We knew it was in an exposed spot and went overkill.. only 5.5ft between poles and extra 3" x 2"'s and plenty of screws to match.. its armour clad but it kinda has to be where it is

Reggie.

Here ya are Con Man

ellewood

Reggie. wrote: »

Here ya are Con Man

Thats a mighty looking job alright!

Is it 30' accross the front and 35' deep?

What did the uprights - are the 12'' round- cost ya and what did the sheeting cost ya??

Where did ya come accross the uprights?

Tks

Conmaicne Mara

Reggie. wrote: »

Here ya are Con Man

Fine job that! Was just about to remind you about photos

bob charles

ellewood wrote: »

Where did ya come accross the uprights?

Tks

he just found them lying on the side of the road.

I must grab pictures of a similar shed using the same uprights. I taught the shed my mate made was unique, but its not

onyerbikepat

Reggie. wrote: »

Here ya are Con Man

Why do ye have a dump trailer when you have an ordinary one aswell? :rolleyes:
Fine shed.
Small thing, but you should have left a small loop of electrical cable hanging down where you went into the lights. It stops any water getting in. It just drips away then from the bottom of the loop.

Reggie.

onyerbikepat wrote: »

Why do ye have a dump trailer when you have an ordinary one aswell? :rolleyes:
Fine shed.
Small thing, but you should have left a small loop of electrical cable hanging down where you went into the lights. It stops any water getting in. It just drips away then from the bottom of the loop.

With the wind that blows through it, water ain't an issue but I realized that after it was done

As for the dump trailer, I use it for moving FYM as it leaves it in a nice heap due to its high tip plus i was battering the other trailer with stones so I decided to get the dump trailer before I wrecked the flat flat trailer

Reggie.

bob charles wrote: »

he just found them lying on the side of the road.

I must grab pictures of a similar shed using the same uprights. I taught the shed my mate made was unique, but its not

Gangsters think alike my man

Conmaicne Mara

Reggie. wrote: »

ive something similar to that built here without the overhang. Remind me tomorrow and ill stick up some pics. The shed is 35ft x 30ft and 14ft at front to 12ft at the back.

Would you not want more of a fall on the shed roof than 2 feet over 30 or 35 foot length?

Reggie.

ellewood wrote: »

Thats a mighty looking job alright!

Is it 30' accross the front and 35' deep?

What did the uprights - are the 12'' round- cost ya and what did the sheeting cost ya??

Where did ya come accross the uprights?

Tks

It's 32 across and 35 deep. It's an odd size as I was trying to squeeze out as much room from a wasted corner

Reggie.

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

Would you not want more of a fall on the shed roof than 2 feet over 30 or 35 foot length?

Never had an issue with all the rain that fell recently

Conmaicne Mara

Reggie. wrote: »

Never had an issue with all the rain that fell recently

Thinking about snow.

Reggie.

ellewood wrote: »

Thats a mighty looking job alright!

Is it 30' accross the front and 35' deep?

What did the uprights - are the 12'' round- cost ya and what did the sheeting cost ya??

Where did ya come accross the uprights?

Tks

Rennicks were changing the signs around mullingar one time and the poles are a byproduct as they only keep the signs. I knew a few lads in Rennicks

The sheeting was mates rates as well and the figure escapes me so that's why the costs were so slow. Sometimes it pays to keep lads sweet