Zanussi inspire dryer no power

G-Man

Hi,
My 2year old zanussi dryer (model EDC77570W) is not powering up. The display is not coming on. Looks like no power completely, but fuse is OK and taking mains tester to the back of it shows it receiving mains inside.

All troubleshooting online starts with assuming it is actually powering up and printing fault codes.

Any ideas?

Sir Arthur Daley

It could be the door switch.

G-Man

Dont think so unless there is something specific.. The LED display should always power on once there is mains supply. I am thinking more like some safety sensor or fuse inside. But I cant find much information online.. Wait times for call out are a few days.

Sir Arthur Daley

taking mains tester to the back of it shows it receiving mains inside.

Are you using a voltmeter here or phase tester as if you used a phase tester it would not tell you if you had a break in the neutral wire.
Is there a capacitor where the mains enter the machine?

G-Man

Yes looked now... and there is a black capacitor unit... Cant get at the mains wires after that unit as its so buried internally in the machine... But that looks like a suspect.

G-Man

Ok mains voltage after this terminal connector at the back of the machine http://shop.electrolux.co.uk/product/1254227141/Tumble+Dryer+Terminal+Block+Assembly is fine.. Then the 2 pink power wires inside go to the front of the machine and disappear into a ball of cables towards the display unit. I can see some of the screws and then some more torx which might retain this....but at this point probably steering into expensive territory. Even that little suppressor unit is 28 GBP.

WikiHow wrote: »

Are you using a voltmeter here or phase tester as if you used a phase tester it would not tell you if you had a break in the neutral wire.
Is there a capacitor where the mains enter the machine?

Voltmeter

tomdempsey200

not an expert but sounds like maybe something blown
I'd say if there's power into the display/timer it should light up
I'd check connections and any fusing although I doubt it's the issue

Irish Steve

Not exactly the same, but worth mentioning.

Daughter's dishwasher expired a while ago with a bang. Got round to looking at it before christmas. No power any lights or the like, did some digging, and found that there was no Low voltage power on the main control board.

Dug a bit deeper. Main board replacement £150 plus shipping, so nearly €200 here. Not viable, a new dishwasher would probably be cheaper in the sales.

Dug a bit deeper again. Transformer on board, 230 in, 3.2 out, primary coil open circuit. exact replacement transformer on E-Bay £6.50 plus Parcel Motel. 2 days to get here from the UK. 4 pins to desolder, one out, one in, resolder the pins, 10 minutes to change the transformer. Took 40 minutes to get to it, what with removing the unit from under the worktop and stripping off the door panels etc, but it would have taken as long to replace the entire panel.

If you can get a circuit diagram from the net or elsewhere, might be worth doing some deeper digging around on that dryer, if nothing is working, it could be something similar, and the repair cost in the end was more than acceptable, the dishwasher's working fine again now.

tomdempsey200

yes diy can be the only option if repair is not viable

timer blew on my whirlpool washer


got a used replacement for small money,fitted it

and tested everything connected to it and replaced door switch as a precaution(they can blow it)


you need a bit of tech skill though

G-Man

Irish Steve wrote: »

Not exactly the same, but worth mentioning.

Daughter's dishwasher expired a while ago with a bang. Got round to looking at it before christmas. No power any lights or the like, did some digging, and found that there was no Low voltage power on the main control board.

Dug a bit deeper. Main board replacement £150 plus shipping, so nearly €200 here. Not viable, a new dishwasher would probably be cheaper in the sales.

Very good work.

I peeled back some more and yes, there appears to be no voltage on parts of the control board at places I think there should be. Now most of the board is buried under several panels and clips... But the thought of fixing this for a few euro as to opposed to repair man + 200 euro part spurs me on..

tomdempsey200

check for any basic problem before you get into fault finding

Irish Steve

tomdempsey200 wrote: »

yes diy can be the only option if repair is not viable

timer blew on my whirlpool washer


got a used replacement for small money,fitted it

and tested everything connected to it and replaced door switch as a precaution(they can blow it)


you need a bit of tech skill though

Yes, a background in repairing computers for a long time is a big help!:D

We had to fault find and fix to component level in those days, getting a set of boards for them just wasn't an option, there were just too many of them to carry around, unless you were prepared to drive a large truck.

The biggest problem most of the time is getting enough accurate information to be able to get down to component level, and modern surface mount boards are a pain to fix, they need too much specialised equipment. Can be done, but not with a simple soldering iron like it was in the early days.

Don'tcha just hate it when the magic smoke escapes from a board! The one good thing when it does is that it usually leaves evidence behind to make it slightly easier to know where to start hunting.

Sir Arthur Daley

G-Man wrote: »

Very good work.

I peeled back some more and yes, there appears to be no voltage on parts of the control board at places I think there should be. Now most of the board is buried under several panels and clips... But the thought of fixing this for a few euro as to opposed to repair man + 200 euro part spurs me on..

The furthest i would check is the mains at the PCB, trace these wires from the suppressor, if you have mains power there it is a problem in your PCB, companies in the UK repair PCBS, there are good suppliers in Germany for PCBs, although your drier is only 2 years old i wouldn't persevere to repair/replace the PCB, one of the reasons is that another component in the drier could be faulty and be the cause of the PCB initial failure and you put in a new one and bang goes the new one, a new drier is not big money. Most service people would be of the same opinion but would offer a new PCB if you really wanted to repair.

tomdempsey200

WikiHow wrote: »

The furthest i would check is the mains at the PCB, trace these wires from the suppressor, if you have mains power there it is a problem in your PCB, companies in the UK repair PCBS, there are good suppliers in Germany for PCBs, although your drier is only 2 years old i wouldn't persevere to repair/replace the PCB, one of the reasons is that another component in the drier could be faulty and be the cause of the PCB initial failure and you put in a new one and bang goes the new one, a new drier is not big money. Most service people would be of the same opinion but would offer a new PCB if you really wanted to repair.

ya good point you can send them away for repair

the other issue is what caused the problem-..i'm told they can advise on that too from the damage


i got a name for those board repairs if the op wants it



also worth checking for secondhand

G-Man

Stuck for a set of torx screwdrivers now... Torx sockets / screwdriver bits have to much of a shoulder to fit in to the recesses.


200 Eur for a control board....Argh.. Really you would think at this stage we could have an open source controller, with attendant i/O pins for sensors and relays. That way when the controller on your dryer or dishwasher fails you could plug in or swap the same component , change the program and off you go again..

Perhaps allow the user to design their own wash cycle - interface with other devices... say divert rinse water to garden but heavily soiled or detergent heavy to drain. ... Dishwasher could talk to washing machine and warn it it seen some red sauce encrusted pans go in and the washing machine should expect some stubborn stains in the shirts load in the next days.

Irish Steve

G-Man wrote: »

Stuck for a set of torx screwdrivers now... Torx sockets / screwdriver bits have to much of a shoulder to fit in to the recesses.


200 Eur for a control board....Argh.. Really you would think at this stage we could have an open source controller, with attendant i/O pins for sensors and relays. That way when the controller on your dryer or dishwasher fails you could plug in or swap the same component , change the program and off you go again..

Perhaps allow the user to design their own wash cycle - interface with other devices... say divert rinse water to garden but heavily soiled or detergent heavy to drain. ... Dishwasher could talk to washing machine and warn it it seen some red sauce encrusted pans go in and the washing machine should expect some stubborn stains in the shirts load in the next days.

Just as long as the jacks doesn't start warning the washing machine and shower to look for skid marks:P, Computer controlled Bidet? I don't think so!

Joking apart, the concept of using open source processors to manage devices would be excellent, but getting the manufacturers to co operate and agree on standards. Not in my lifetime I suspect. Some of the other ideas are also very valid, the issue that's grinding my gears at the moment is the total absence of any real initiative to reduce energy usage other than punitive taxes. All that does is reduce my ability to spend in areas that I want to spend in, because I end up having to spend more in areas I'd prefer not to, but fundamentals like light and heat are unavoidable in a modern society. As for the total cost of motoring, don't get me started on that one!:mad:

G-Man

WikiHow wrote: »

The furthest i would check is the mains at the PCB, trace these wires from the suppressor, if you have mains power there it is a problem in your PCB, companies in the UK repair PCBS, there are good suppliers in Germany for PCBs, although your drier is only 2 years old i wouldn't persevere to repair/replace the PCB, one of the reasons is that another component in the drier could be faulty and be the cause of the PCB initial failure and you put in a new one and bang goes the new one, a new drier is not big money. Most service people would be of the same opinion but would offer a new PCB if you really wanted to repair.

I am hearing you now.....talked to the local repair shop down the street. He repairs lots and he says like that dont be tempted to replace PCB as a new one might be blown just as quick by the real fault.. So many variations of boards he says he does not have a 2nd hand one anyway.. Attempt repair DIY ok but only if you find the right part and have the skills... Might be a bit too much SMT on the board.

Similar dryer models are available for 200 - 250 Eurs or about.. So if a call out and replace the part is not worth it.


Man but thats just bad from a obsolescence and E-waste point of view..

tomdempsey200

G-Man wrote: »

dont be tempted to replace PCB as a new one might be blown just as quick by the real fault..

the company repairing it will likely be able to tell you what component caused it

it is tricky though..if you get it wrong you may lose on the double

assuming that's the problem

Sir Arthur Daley

G-Man wrote: »

Similar dryer models are available for 200 - 250 Eurs or about.. So if a call out and replace the part is not worth it.

This is why replacing the PCB is not the done thing, it dont make economic sense, it seems like a waste throwing out a 2 year old appliance with such an issue but that is the way it is.