machinery shed

bt12

going to start making a machinery shed soon 3bay by 30ft portal frame 12ft eaves ,what sort of pitch do lads recommend

ford 5600

15 degrees is safe enough to go with. One thing I would suggest to you is to use purloins for the roof.The reason being that you will can then have 20 ft spans. You will then be able to put 2 implements, trailers, etc, in each span side by side. Much more use out of your space. 15 ft 9 in is to narrow for two of anything bar fert spreaders, 10 x 6 trailers etc. Have this problem now with trailed moco and jf harvester myself.

yellow50HX

ford 5600 wrote: »

15 degrees is safe enough to go with. One thing I would suggest to you is to use purloins for the roof.The reason being that you will can then have 20 ft spans. You will then be able to put 2 implements, trailers, etc, in each span side by side. Much more use out of your space. 15 ft 9 in is to narrow for two of anything bar fert spreaders, 10 x 6 trailers etc. Have this problem now with trailed moco and jf harvester myself.

Yeah try to have as few pillars on the open side for access.

1chippy

15 degrees is bang on. id rise the 12' to at least 14' if it was my own.

nashmach

1chippy wrote: »

15 degrees is bang on. id rise the 12' to at least 14' if it was my own.

I'd go to at least 14 if not 17 if it is possible.

For a machinery shed, non drip sheeting is a good investment too.

hugo29

min 15 degrees

colrow

hugo29 wrote: »

min 15 degrees

Hi, I'm curious why is the minimum 15 deg ? Thanks

onyerbikepat

I'd be careful building a DIY shed like that. Get someone to check over the design before you build. Safety first and all that.

Sharpshooter82

I've a homemade shed at home about that size, I'll stick up pics later

Sharpshooter82

ford 5600 wrote: »

15 degrees is safe enough to go with. One thing I would suggest to you is to use purloins for the roof.The reason being that you will can then have 20 ft spans. You will then be able to put 2 implements, trailers, etc, in each span side by side. Much more use out of your space. 15 ft 9 in is to narrow for two of anything bar fert spreaders, 10 x 6 trailers etc. Have this problem now with trailed moco and jf harvester myself.

Def make bays at least 20ft apart as I have and I can get dump trailer and 13x8 trailer beside one another in a bay. Little tight but they fit

jomoloney

1chippy wrote: »

15 degrees is bang on. id rise the 12' to at least 14' if it was my own.

nashmach wrote: »

I'd go to at least 14 if not 17 if it is possible.

For a machinery shed, non drip sheeting is a good investment too.

+1

Sharpshooter82

nashmach wrote: »

I'd go to at least 14 if not 17 if it is possible.

For a machinery shed, non drip sheeting is a good investment too.

Mine is 14 foot at the front and it's a fair height. I'd only go 17 if I had combine or something large like that going into the shed. You'd be surprised how far in the rain gets into the shed at 14 foot high at the front

Sami23

onyerbikepat wrote: »

I'd be careful building a DIY shed like that. Get someone to check over the design before you build. Safety first and all that.

Have to disagree, no point wasting money on some engineer that probably knows less that yourself about farm sheds :mad:

onyerbikepat

And we wonder why so many people are killed on Irish farms.

Have a read of this. Don't know when it kicks in in Ireland, to be honest.

"After that date (1 July 2014) it will be a criminal offence to supply non-CE-marked frames for the construction of a building," he says. "As such, it is unlikely insurance companies will pay up for the rebuilding of a collapsed or damaged building where the frame is not CE marked - or for damage to livestock, grain or machinery as a result of the collapse."


http://www.fwi.co.uk/articles/13/03/2012/131906/collapsed-farm-buildings-prompt-design-changes.htm

dzer2

I have engineering drawings if there any good to you save you a few quid and definitely go with the steel purloins as they give you great scope. 15 deg is the minimum for snow fall. If its an A frame you are doing you are wasting a lot of sheeting on both sides on the plus side if you ever have another use for it then fire away. Trees and leaves deposit loads of dirt on the roof so you need to maintain it.

bob charles

First shed I built was 75 by 50 @ 14ft to the eves. I often look at it and think, I must have being fair mad starting out on that job. Had a shed builder in recently and he was looking at a shed that was built onto the shed I built and he said the second shed wasnt built aswell as the original:)

hugo29

Sami23 wrote: »

Have to disagree, no point wasting money on some engineer that probably knows less that yourself about farm sheds :mad:

disagree there, be surprised what some lads know,

i mean does everyone who erects a steel shed know what size member it takes to span the opening its being inserted into or what the windloading required is

most steel members will span any opening but the steel member needs to be strong enough to carry its own weight over that span

is not rocket science but there are experts out there in each profession for a reason

colrow wrote: »

Hi, I'm curious why is the minimum 15 deg ? Thanks

pitch can go down to 4 degress, its better to keep it around 15 as you get a better run off, on lower pitches the run off can be slower and sometimes wind driven rain or water can get driven in joints in sheeting

your pitch will really be determined by the 3 factors, height you want at rear, height you want at front and overall depth of shed, if these dimensions are fixed then your pitch is what it is

Nekarsulm

If you have a forage harvester or a Massey digger or a JCB 3CX to go in, you will need 14 foot. Back arm of a 50HX or a 3CX both need 13 foot clearance.

onyerbikepat

The point I was making about safety is, if you get a lot of snow on a roof and then say a strong wing from the right direction, it will put any shed under a lot of pressure. A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing!

f140

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If you have a forage harvester or a Massey digger or a JCB 3CX to go in, you will need 14 foot. Back arm of a 50HX or a 3CX both need 13 foot clearance.

or even if you wanted to tip a trailer a bit in a shed. height is very important or what I see is if you had a bale trailer three bales high and wanted to back it in without taking off bales.

Viewtodiefor

bt12 wrote: »

going to start making a machinery shed soon 3bay by 30ft portal frame 12ft eaves ,what sort of pitch do lads recommend

What do you have to put in it?

Zr105

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If you have a forage harvester or a Massey digger or a JCB 3CX to go in, you will need 14 foot. Back arm of a 50HX or a 3CX both need 13 foot clearance.

Diggers i wouldn't be to worried about, once you can get the cab in you can drop the arm down behind you and get it in, it's a pain but if it was only for parking wouldn't be that big of a deal! That said though, id definitly go to 14, newer silage trailer is close enough to 12ft, 8ft body plus whatever tires underneath.. And even at 14 ft depending on the bale trailer you'll struggle to get 3rows in under it

rob308

Follow this carefully and you'll be ok
http://www.teagasc.ie/pigs/whats_new/S101.pdf