Dry Bed Shed

razor8

Going to roof area between the two sheds attached. Its 47ft (3 bays) x 20 ft wide. Was going to graft it onto existing shed and do it as lean to, Any ideas on price and cheapest way to do it?


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Timmaay

Grafting always messy and expensive 2bh, custom brackets and all that will add time and cost to the roofers job. Also, are you planning on knocking the wall for likes of a feeding barrier?

razor8

thanks Timmaay, Going to use it as a stand alone shed (i think anyway)

Muckit

Are you going feeding them from both ends then or what's the plan?

Could you put an A roof on it, with the gables facing the photo? That way you sre not loosing height and shed will be airy.

I think it will be too low if you just bring a lean too straight down off the shed to the left.

razor8

hoping to use it as loose shed with ring feeder and use it for lambing pens closer to lambing. A roof would be best option but probably not the cheapest

lean to would work hopefully if i went at a better angle

dh1985

Do the pillars in the shed on the right line up with the shed on the left? If so, thats a few quid saved. You could weld stubs to the existing pillars on the right, extend them up to the height you wish to have the shed and run a lean to roof back into the existing gutter in the left hand shed. Use the pillars of this shed if possible. No height issus this way.

Guest0000

Why not lean your roof back into the new build, bore your stanchion to receive the new rafters, and stand a new row of stanchions on the right side, these at a guess will probably be approx 22ftish if you maintain the 15^ pitch, much more height, airy and room to improve in the future,

razor8

Ok, plan attached, stanchions dont line up

was thinking of doing a short lean to from both side and overlapping at midpoint, options options

I think i would be better roofing back into new shed as guest says, i get a bad west wind from there at times and it drives rain up roof into canopy on new shed on left

have no idea what this would like cost, has anyone idea cost per m2 of roof area?

dh1985

razor8 wrote: »

Ok, plan attached, stanchions dont line up

was thinking of doing a short lean to from both side and overlapping at midpoint, options options

I think i would be better roofing back into new shed as guest says, i get a bad west wind from there at times and it drives rain up roof into canopy on new shed on left

have no idea what this would like cost, has anyone idea cost per m2 of roof area?

Bit of a pity the two sheds arent exactly parallel but 100mm wont be too bad. Definitely think its better sloped toward the newer shed using its existing pillars as the back pillars for your new shed. Cuts down on the cost of steel and gutter even though that wouldnt be over expensive. Would go with a straight leanto roof rather than an A shaped roof as it is the cheaper option. (Less fabrication). Did you do the CAD yourself.
Would like to think you would get the the basic structure of the shed up relatively cheap. Maybe 1k worth of steel for I-beams in it at a very rough guess. Very little fabricating on it. Do you weld yourself? (That price is just for steel). Paying someone for fabrication if you wouldnt be able to do it yourself is a different set of circumstances. Timber wont rob you either. No clue of the cost of cladding

keep going

Stand 4 rails on the right in line with rails in the left wall and put an Aframe on them, just make sure you have the roof higher than gutters either side.there is very little work to be done to the stanchions on the left as the frames will come in under gutter.or alternative ly splice on to the stanchions on left and rise them the height of the vent sheeting on left house and slope the roof the same just up 4ft or whatever and gutter the water into the pipe on the right.if it was mine id A roof it less messing.say 1000 for sheeting , timber and rails1000, gutters nails brackets etc1000 labour a1000 very rough figures.the cheap est way is the way you suggested but its too low in my opinion

just do it

Don't forget to think about ventilation. Will the new existing shed on left be blocked off from fresh air movement? Will the new proposed shed have adequate ventilation? It's still days you've to consider.

Livestockmad

Muckit wrote: »

Are you going feeding them from both ends then or what's the plan?

Could you put an A roof on it, with the gables facing the photo? That way you sre not loosing height and shed will be airy.

I think it will be too low if you just bring a lean too straight down off the shed to the left.

Id second this.. if the shed is too low ul be cursing it for years when u have to fork it out!! As a wise man told me when building a shed, a few extra foot of H-iron and sheeting won't break the bank and will save u breaking ur back in the long run. Great comfort being able to drive in with a tractor. An A shape would be me choice anyway.

Guest0000

keep going wrote: »

Stand 4 rails on the right in line with rails in the left wall and put an Aframe on them, just make sure you have the roof higher than gutters either side.there is very little work to be done to the stanchions on the left as the frames will come in under gutter.or alternative ly splice on to the stanchions on left and rise them the height of the vent sheeting on left house and slope the roof the same just up 4ft or whatever and gutter the water into the pipe on the right.if it was mine id A roof it less messing.say 1000 for sheeting , timber and rails1000, gutters nails brackets etc1000 labour a1000 very rough figures.the cheap est way is the way you suggested but its too low in my opinion

whilst an a frame will be more pleasing to the eye the cost will be greater in both fabrication and erection, with an extra row of purlins and gutter and whilst the rafter are shorter will still require twice the work to make up.

whilst the above figures are a guess, the steel would be closer to 1800 and the sheeting the same, and labour would also be approx. double.

again the straight forward way would be bore the new build stanchions to receive the rafters and replace the gutter with a folded valley section, as the old gutter would disappear under the tails of the new sheeting,
and stand a new stand alone row of stanchions on the right,

the idea of extending the new build stanchion will probably be ruled out as in most farm builds. the rafter carries across, with much too much work involved.....

razor8

thanks lads, yes i use cad myself

other option to gain a bit of height is to put a stub on like attached

ye are frightening me with prices, i had budgeted for 4/5 grand to do it but not likely with these prices, that was including concrete floor, doors etc

dropped drawings into local steel merchant thursday so will see if he gives me as big as fright

iverjohnston

Here are 2 shots of a similar job I done a good few years ago. Shed on right have metric bays, and the silo on left is 15 foot bays. I was lucky that I had lots of height to work with on the silo side. Welded up the brackets you see on the right, then welded them to the shed girders. On the silo side, as you see, put in an extra upright in line with the metric shed's girders, coach screwed to the timber at the top and concreted into the top of the pit wall.

Get as much height as you can, I would suggest either an A roof or a wagon roof higher than the highest side, if you see what I mean. Don't forget allowing for 2 foot of bedding on the floor by winters end, and are you planning on tipping a round bale into the feeder? You will need 5 or 6 foot over the top of the feeder's height. What height is your tractor cab? Add 2 foot to that height and take it as your minimum clearance at the lowest spot.

Looking at your CAD drawing, Instead of continuing the slope of the roof on the left of the drawing, slope new roof the opposite direction and then you will have the 4 metres as your minimum height. You will be removing the side sheeting on the old shed, so that will roof one bay of the new roof for you.

razor8

good work iver, did you do it yourself?

will be tipping bale with loader into feeder, tractor is measuring 8ft to cab, but contractor will be cleaning out house

think i will slope shed back to new shed leaving it 4.2 or so at lowest end, still waiting on a price

iverjohnston

Did it the hard way, lunacy now that I look back on it. Bought two old lorry chassis from a scrapyard and split them to make the trusses. One chassis was made of doubled up side plates so got 6 lengths. Took days to cut off all the fixings and bolts and rivets. Can't imagine now why I didn't just buy RSJ's
The gap between the sheds was left because 1) digging the tanks could make the silo slip into the hole, and 2) had planned to put a milking parlour in the space.

And the timber was from a tree which blew down in a storm, and had been sawn. I think that at the time it cost about 1200 punts to put it up. Its 18foot wide and 60 foot long. Did it all myself so no cost allowed for labour.

razor8

you did it hard way surely but you saved a good few moola!