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Peugeot Expert 2008 Fault Help

  • 18-10-2013 6:48pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭


    Hi all


    I have a 2008 expert 1.6hdi 122k

    It is down on power (no boost)

    Since we have a few citreon/peugeot vans i brought Lexia 3 (based in Limerick if anyone wants to have there car plugged in)

    Attached is the list of stored fault codes

    im thinking turbo vaccum valve or leaking vac pipe

    im hoping it is not the dreaded turbo failure. i took off the air intake pipe to the turbo and the shaft seems tight.

    thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 sean86


    Hi all


    I have a 2008 expert 1.6hdi 122k

    It is down on power (no boost)

    Since we have a few citreon/peugeot vans i brought Lexia 3 (based in Limerick if anyone wants to have there car plugged in)

    Attached is the list of stored fault codes

    im thinking turbo vaccum valve or leaking vac pipe

    im hoping it is not the dreaded turbo failure. i took off the air intake pipe to the turbo and the shaft seems tight.

    thanks in advance

    clean egr valve?? i had same problem cleaned it out and blank it off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    sean86 wrote: »
    clean egr valve?? i had same problem cleaned it out and blank it off.

    Hi
    Thanks , I think that's the best solution.
    It will also need :
    glow plugs
    a turbo vacuum solenoid.
    It fails the actuation test in lexia 3. Says open circuit, checked cable and it is plugged in correctly

    Also does blanking the egr on this engine throw up a fault code ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    When you start the engine does the turbo rod connected to a vacuum pot under the turbo retract fully..?

    If its not moving then its either a problem with the turbo control solenoid or theres a vacuum leak....
    Tbh with all those fault codes related to the turbo control solenoid i'd be going there first...Its at the back of the engine and can be seen from underneat right of the starter (redish/pinkish in colour)


    For your own/others reference here is a description of the faults codes you uploaded..:)


    P1351
    Pre-heating relay circuit : Coherence ; Relay supplied and glow plugs not supplied
    one or more of your glow plugs have blown or there's problem with the glowplug relay...this will not affect the low turbo boost.

    p0299 Turbocharger pressure signal : Pressure too low in relation to the reference value
    This is flagged due to the ecu seeing low turbo pressure...this low pressure is taken from the turbo pressure sensor on the intake manifold.

    P0238 Turbocharger pressure signal : Short circuit to positive
    Suspect areas..Turbocharging pressure sensor
    Turbocharger position copy sensor
    Vacuum problem
    Variable geometry of the turbocharger jammed in the "maximum turbocharging" position
    Faulty turbocharger


    P0098
    After sales description of the fault code Intake air temperature signal (Air inlet manifold) : Open circuit or short circuit to the plus


    Suspect areas Temperature sensor : Turbocharged air
    Electrical harness
    Engine ECU


    P0243
    After sales description of the fault code Turbo pressure regulation electrovalve control : Open circuit


    Suspect areas Electrical harness and connections of the turbocharger control electrovalve
    Fuse F20 on fuse box PSF1
    Turbocharger control solenoid valve


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Row wrote: »
    When you start the engine does the turbo rod connected to a vacuum pot under the turbo retract fully..?

    If its not moving then its either a problem with the turbo control solenoid or theres a vacuum leak....
    Tbh with all those fault codes related to the turbo control solenoid i'd be going there first...Its at the back of the engine and can be seen from underneat right of the starter (redish/pinkish in colour)


    For your own/others reference here is a description of the faults codes you uploaded..:)


    P1351
    Pre-heating relay circuit : Coherence ; Relay supplied and glow plugs not supplied
    one or more of your glow plugs have blown or there's problem with the glowplug relay...this will not affect the low turbo boost.

    p0299 Turbocharger pressure signal : Pressure too low in relation to the reference value
    This is flagged due to the ecu seeing low turbo pressure...this low pressure is taken from the turbo pressure sensor on the intake manifold.

    P0238 Turbocharger pressure signal : Short circuit to positive
    Suspect areas..Turbocharging pressure sensor
    Turbocharger position copy sensor
    Vacuum problem
    Variable geometry of the turbocharger jammed in the "maximum turbocharging" position
    Faulty turbocharger


    P0098
    After sales description of the fault code Intake air temperature signal (Air inlet manifold) : Open circuit or short circuit to the plus


    Suspect areas Temperature sensor : Turbocharged air
    Electrical harness
    Engine ECU


    P0243
    After sales description of the fault code Turbo pressure regulation electrovalve control : Open circuit


    Suspect areas Electrical harness and connections of the turbocharger control electrovalve
    Fuse F20 on fuse box PSF1
    Turbocharger control solenoid valve

    Hi Row

    Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm fairly sure it needs to be changed . The turbo actuator rod does not move.

    When I do the actuation test on the solenoid it says open circuit. I then disconnected the electrical connector, put a multimeter on the connector and repeated the test. No voltage was shown , so I am suspecting a break in the loom possibly as the fuse is ok.

    I also want to check the vac hoses but it seems to disappear around the right side of the block out if view before reappearing at the back of the block.

    Any suggestions are welcome


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    Hi Row

    Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm fairly sure it needs to be changed . The turbo actuator rod does not move.

    When I do the actuation test on the solenoid it says open circuit. I then disconnected the electrical connector, put a multimeter on the connector and repeated the test. No voltage was shown , so I am suspecting a break in the loom possibly as the fuse is ok.

    I also want to check the vac hoses but it seems to disappear around the right side of the block out if view before reappearing at the back of the block.

    Any suggestions are welcome

    Hi paulryanmini,
    Just checked the elec drawings and your turbo control solenoid.

    Maybe meter these out first....
    pin1 on the solenoid is feed from the pin 2 on a 28 pin black connector on the engine bay fusebox (fuse 10 feeds this) if the fuse is o.k then check for a good 12 volt feed from fusebox...if your getting 12 volts on a multimeter doesn't always mean its a good 12volts..;)

    Pin 2 on the turbo control solenoid is a - ground feed directly from E1 (32 pin grey connector) on the engine ecu.

    You could connect up a 12 volt light bulb to the two connectors on the turbo control solenoid and actuate it tru planet/diagbox.....just be careful not to backfeed 12volts to the ground side of the ecu..:eek:

    Best of luck with it..;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Row wrote: »
    Hi paulryanmini,
    Just checked the elec drawings and your turbo control solenoid.

    Maybe meter these out first....
    pin1 on the solenoid is feed from the pin 2 on a 28 pin black connector on the engine bay fusebox (fuse 10 feeds this) if the fuse is o.k then check for a good 12 volt feed from fusebox...if your getting 12 volts on a multimeter doesn't always mean its a good 12volts..;)

    Pin 2 on the turbo control solenoid is a - ground feed directly from E1 (32 pin grey connector) on the engine ecu.

    You could connect up a 12 volt light bulb to the two connectors on the turbo control solenoid and actuate it tru planet/diagbox.....just be careful not to backfeed 12volts to the ground side of the ecu..:eek:

    Best of luck with it..;)

    Thanks so much for taking the time to check that .
    The van is gone to get vinyl wrapped so once it's back ill try that out.
    Should be back In a week or so.

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    Thanks so much for taking the time to check that .
    The van is gone to get vinyl wrapped so once it's back ill try that out.
    Should be back In a week or so.

    Thanks again

    No Problem....Let us know how it goes for you and if you need more info let me know...;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Row wrote: »
    No Problem....Let us know how it goes for you and if you need more info let me know...;)

    Hi

    Only got the van back from the sign writers today !

    I have done what you suggested with no joy.

    Actuated the solenoid from lexia with my multi-meter set to read dc voltage (under 20v) no readings.

    if i set multi-meter to the bell setting and i put one pin to a ground source and the other to pin2 on solenoid plug i get nothing.

    I then went to the engine fuse box.

    i have 2 28 pin connectors.

    pin 2 on the first 28 pin connector i checked to pin 1 on the solenoid feed wire no joy

    pin 2 on the second 28 pin connector was the same.

    The wires going to the solenoid plug are green & brown. but on both 28 pin connectors the wires going to pin2 are white.

    i also found the following:

    someone has spliced 2 wires on the 28 pin pink connector.

    the white and pink wires at pin 28/27. any idea what these are for?

    I would appreciate any help as i can find a wiring diagram online.

    my background electronics so i think i should be able to find the problem if i could find a wiring diagram.

    i appreciate you taking the time to read this.

    thanks
    paul


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    Hi

    Only got the van back from the sign writers today !

    I have done what you suggested with no joy.

    Actuated the solenoid from lexia with my multi-meter set to read dc voltage (under 20v) no readings.

    if i set multi-meter to the bell setting and i put one pin to a ground source and the other to pin2 on solenoid plug i get nothing.

    I then went to the engine fuse box.

    i have 2 28 pin connectors.

    pin 2 on the first 28 pin connector i checked to pin 1 on the solenoid feed wire no joy

    pin 2 on the second 28 pin connector was the same.

    The wires going to the solenoid plug are green & brown. but on both 28 pin connectors the wires going to pin2 are white.

    i also found the following:

    someone has spliced 2 wires on the 28 pin pink connector.

    the white and pink wires at pin 28/27. any idea what these are for?

    I would appreciate any help as i can find a wiring diagram online.

    my background electronics so i think i should be able to find the problem if i could find a wiring diagram.

    i appreciate you taking the time to read this.

    thanks
    paul

    Hi Paul,
    If you pm me your vin number and an email address i'll send you on the electrical drawings.

    Sounds like some diy sparky was there before you...:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Row wrote: »
    Hi Paul,
    If you pm me your vin number and an email address i'll send you on the electrical drawings.

    Sounds like some diy sparky was there before you...:rolleyes:

    Pm Sent :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Hi
    Just to keep this thread updated.

    Big thanks to "row" for sending me the wiring diagrams it was a great help.

    I have now ran a new 12v feed to the solenoid and a new ground feed directly from the ECU.

    I now get 8.5v when activated in Lexia. (solenoid gets a permanent 12v feed and is ground activated by the ECU)

    It appears the ECU is outputting a poor ground signal.

    I have checked the grounding of the ECU itself and it seems fine.

    I cant think of any other option but to send the ECU to bba-reman in England for testing. :(

    i would appreciate any advise


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    No Problem Paul...great to see your getting places...:cool:
    If you ran a new 12v feed and new ground from ecu then it does look like an ecu fault alright....:(
    How are the pins on the ecu connector & solenoid....?

    If it is the ecu and its to expensive to repair then your cheapest option is to pick up a s/h engine ecu/Bsi/key fob and swap over the key blade or pick up another ecu and get it unlocked.
    Thanks for the update..;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Row wrote: »
    No Problem Paul...great to see your getting places...:cool:
    If you ran a new 12v feed and new ground from ecu then it does look like an ecu fault alright....:(
    How are the pins on the ecu connector & solenoid....?

    If it is the ecu and its to expensive to repair then your cheapest option is to pick up a s/h engine ecu/Bsi/key fob and swap over the key blade or pick up another ecu and get it unlocked.
    Thanks for the update..;)

    Thanks for the reply.

    I am finding it hard to get a second hand complete set.

    But do you know if lexia can program a used engine ECU? i have managed to get one with matching part numbers from the local scrap yard.

    also is there any Irish companies like bba-reman. i would keep the business in Ireland if i could


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    Thanks for the reply.

    I am finding it hard to get a second hand complete set.

    But do you know if lexia can program a used engine ECU? i have managed to get one with matching part numbers from the local scrap yard.

    also is there any Irish companies like bba-reman. i would keep the business in Ireland if i could

    The only way Lexia can program an ecu is when its new or a when second hand ecu has been virginised.

    Some companies can copy over the data from one ecu to the other so if your original ecu cannot be repaired this could be a good option.

    Tbh i'm not sure of any good ecu repair company here as I have used u.k. based companies in the past.

    Maybe someone here can recommend an irish based ecu repair company....??

    Btw you ecu is a edc 16.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    Row wrote: »
    The only way Lexia can program an ecu is when its new or a when second hand ecu has been virginised.

    Some companies can copy over the data from one ecu to the other so if your original ecu cannot be repaired this could be a good option.

    Tbh i'm not sure of any good ecu repair company here as I have used u.k. based companies in the past.

    Maybe someone here can recommend an irish based ecu repair company....??

    Btw you ecu is a edc 16.

    Thanks for getting back to me

    I found a company in NI that can copy my ecu to a second hand one.

    But he said the part number from peugeot must also match as they can only copy the immobiliser info over . The engine data or somthing is read only ??

    Getting a edc16 is easy enough but with the same peugeot part number is hard :-(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 696 ✭✭✭Alfagtamini


    To close this thread:

    Van fixed after much frustration.

    New solenoid fitted no joy
    New live + ground feed wires ran to solenoid
    Ecu +bsi swapped

    Still no joy so took it to a auto electrian (roman ,dock road limerick)

    It turned out 8.5v is enough to actuate the solenoid.

    The fault was with the new solenoid, he supplied a direct feed to it on a bench tester and it worked. Plugged back into van and it worked. It must have been stuck :-(

    Thanks for all the help !!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,025 ✭✭✭Row


    To close this thread:

    Van fixed after much frustration.

    New solenoid fitted no joy
    New live + ground feed wires ran to solenoid
    Ecu +bsi swapped

    Still no joy so took it to a auto electrian (roman ,dock road limerick)

    It turned out 8.5v is enough to actuate the solenoid.

    The fault was with the new solenoid, he supplied a direct feed to it on a bench tester and it worked. Plugged back into van and it worked. It must have been stuck :-(

    Thanks for all the help !!

    Glad you got to the bottom of it in the end Paul..:cool:
    Its difficult to get to the root of a problem when you were supplied with a faulty part...:rolleyes:
    I can't understand what you weren't getting a good 12volts from the engine bay fusebox.
    Thanks for the update..;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭Bayb12


    Have a peugeot 308 hdi which was showing up anti pollution faulty along with a engine warning light so got a diagnostic and this fault was listed as permanent along with EGR and Air mass meter as intermittent.

    Garage are recommending the whole turbo needs to be replaced at a cost of 1500. Does anyone know if the car could survive a drive to Galway from dublin?


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