Saving Diesel!

ardle1

ok I wont get too technical, A friend of mine asked me how many miles I'm getting per galon, I told him about 38, I drive a VW Passat 1.9Tdi AVB Engine... He then tells me he knows a guy and for 200€ he can remap or chip my car,so I would get an extra 2-4 miles per Litre!! My question is, is this possible, and are there any side effects.....He said the job would take about 2 or 3 hours. Any advice much appreciated.

MuppetCheck

So 9-18 miles per gallon more? Claims a but high. You might get a bit better after a remap but not to those levels.

In saying that, how are you working out your mpg? What type of use? Seems low unless there's a lot of town driving.

ardle1

MuppetCheck wrote: »

So 9-18 miles per gallon more? Claims a but high. You might get a bit better after a remap but not to those levels.

In saying that, how are you working out your mpg? What type of use? Seems low unless there's a lot of town driving.

Yes a lot of town driving (taxi) so I would benefit even with a small increase in mpg... The maths is near spot on, fill to neck clock miles fill again and do my calculations.. I use this method maybe a couple off times a year,always come up with the same mpg there or there abouts...

bazz26

My only advice about getting a remap is to get it done by a reputable mapper who knows what they are doing. A bad map done by someone clueless can cause all sorts of problems for your car.

allthedoyles

Can a petrol engine be re-mapped ?

TBi

allthedoyles wrote: »

Can a petrol engine be re-mapped ?

Yup, mine was. Gave me about 10% better MPG and similar increase in BHP/Torque. Made the car more drivable as well as efficient.

ardle1

So what is the procedure, I presume nothing major for that money! Will he just 'fiddle' with ECU or should I expect him to mess with air intake or even injectors, just want a wee 'heads up' when I meet this guy......

ardle1

bazz26 wrote: »

My only advice about getting a remap is to get it done by a reputable mapper who knows what they are doing. A bad map done by someone clueless can cause all sorts of problems for your car.

What kind off problems, I can throw them in during the conversation when I meet the 'mapper'.. He'll think this guy knows his stuff!

Interslice

ardle1 wrote: »

So what is the procedure, I presume nothing major for that money! Will he just 'fiddle' with ECU or should I expect him to mess with air intake or even injectors, just want a wee 'heads up' when I meet this guy......

It's all done through the ECU. Your car should just be well maintained with no fault codes. A good mapper will adjust the various maps on a dyno to maximise performance and allow for the wear on the engine, rather than the stock map which is made for a brand new engine and will have other concerns such as emmisions and drivetrain reliability.

ardle1

Interslice wrote: »

It's all done through the ECU. Your car should just be well maintained with no fault codes. A good mapper will adjust the various maps on a dyno to maximise performance and allow for the wear on the engine, rather than the stock map which is made for a brand new engine and will have other concerns such as emmisions and drivetrain reliability.

Right so I better get 17964 and 17664 sorted, loose wire on coolant temp sensor and possible vacuum leak some where!!! Tested N75 it's ok, anti shudder doesn't activate and the return solenoid valve that operates it is ok, I have a N18 ready to swap (when I find its location) other than that it must be vacuum leak, limp mode here and there especially on longggggg inclines, am 'stumped'.... Any ideas anyone?

Interslice

Guessing you've seen these.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17964/P1556/005462

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17664/P1256

The temp sensor is an easy fix, probably just the sensor itself. They all seem to go on vw's at some stage. About 30/40 quid for the sensor. The charge pressure fault is a little harder to figure out. I normally just work through the possible solutions starting with the easiest and cheapest ones first. They're pretty much in the right order in the link.

Get them sorted and give it a full service with a new fuel filter and you should be good to go. The guy will appreciate you bringing in a well running car more than trying to talk to him about the process. Just leave him at it I reckon.

ardle1

Interslice wrote: »

Guessing you've seen these.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17964/P1556/005462

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17664/P1256

The temp sensor is an easy fix, probably just the sensor itself. They all seem to go on vw's at some stage. About 30/40 quid for the sensor. The charge pressure fault is a little harder to figure out. I normally just work through the possible solutions starting with the easiest and cheapest ones first. They're pretty much in the right order in the link.

Get them sorted and give it a full service with a new fuel filter and you should be good to go. The guy will appreciate you bringing in a well running car more than trying to talk to him about the process. Just leave him at it I reckon.

What is that charge pressure control? Is it the anti shudder return valve, I've come across that name a few times! As for the coolant temp sensor,I did put a green one in, eh that's when I pulled the white wire out of its housing by mistake,and just pushed it back in!!!

Interslice

ardle1 wrote: »

What is that charge pressure control? Is it the anti shudder return valve, I've come across that name a few times! As for the coolant temp sensor,I did put a green one in, eh that's when I pulled the white wire out of its housing by mistake,and just pushed it back in!!!

Disaster! I doubt if pushing the wire back in would be enough. If you clear the code and it returns then you know.

The charge pressure control: negative deeviation means it can't create enough boost due to a leak between the turbo and the intake manifiold or the nozzles in the turbo being stuck etc.. The anti-shudder is a different thing. It just a butterfly flap before the intake maniflod that shuts when you turn off the engine(lifting off the accelerator too i think). Wouldn't lower your boost pressure anyway.

ardle1

Interslice wrote: »

Disaster! I doubt if pushing the wire back in would be enough. If you clear the code and it returns then you know.

The charge pressure control: negative deeviation means it can't create enough boost due to a leak between the turbo and the intake manifiold or the nozzles in the turbo being stuck etc.. The anti-shudder is a different thing. It just a butterfly flap before the intake maniflod that shuts when you turn off the engine(lifting off the accelerator too i think). Wouldn't lower your boost pressure anyway.

Yeah thought that I'm forever clearing that code,makes no odds,I'll get that whole harness hanging off a Passat in the scrap yard and crimp it on to my old wires.....
Anyway I've checked the nozzles with vacuum connected to the actuator, it moves pretty smooth about 1" or so, and I've changed that return valve that goes to anti shudder, but as you say that shouldn't be a problem anyway....Oh and I've checked and replaced any hose that seemed dodgy(well any I could find)must be one some where elusive!! So next N18, I'll follow EGR hose and have a look see,think it's between engine and bulk head, am I right?.... P.s never mind the time on these posts am not drunk, just finished work (taxi man) Thanks for your input:)