Reseeding

buffalobilly

Hi cut the silage in a field yesterday crop was poor enough so I am going to reseed it question is how long would I need to leave it before spraying it with round up would it need to be greening Up again ? then how long to it can be ploughed. Thanks

mahoney_j

buffalobilly wrote: »

Hi cut the silage in a field yesterday crop was poor enough so I am going to reseed it question is how long would I need to leave it before spraying it with round up would it need to be greening Up again ? then how long to it can be ploughed. Thanks

Should of really burnt it off a week to 10 days ago and then cut silage off it but how and ever leave it a week to green up so when sprayed the roundup has a leaf to stick to then leave 4 to 5 days and plough away

bogman_bass

On a related note is it lime then manure or vice versa?

I know there was a link to a teagasc paper on it but I cant find it

funny man

if your ploughing dung first, plough it down then lime.

bogman_bass

hmm. was planing on discing it. I wonder will that work with dung?

funny man

buffalobilly wrote: »

Hi cut the silage in a field yesterday crop was poor enough so I am going to reseed it question is how long would I need to leave it before spraying it with round up would it need to be greening Up again ? then how long to it can be ploughed. Thanks

yes will have to let it green up with a good cover or it will be still be greening up after you spray. for spray usually 5-7 days before seeding.

funny man

Unless the dung is fine or rotted, you could chain harrow it. if there is a lot of straw i'd leave it where it is.

Dunedin

buffalobilly wrote: »

Hi cut the silage in a field yesterday crop was poor enough so I am going to reseed it question is how long would I need to leave it before spraying it with round up would it need to be greening Up again ? then how long to it can be ploughed. Thanks

you should really be taking soil samples before you reseed of which will not present an accurate measurement within 3 months of the last fertiliser/slurry/etc being applied.

Assuming that you applied fert for the silage ground, then will mean no point in doing the SS.

Re-seeding is too expensive not to get right and totally stabbing in the dark doing it without SS first.

Also, make sure you graze it first rather than letting straight back to silage - promotes tillering and will thicken the crop on the ground.

sorry if I've thrown a spanner in your works but better to know now.

Sami23

Need to reseed a field and looking for some advice. The field was topped last week after being grazed the week before so has an average cover of grass at present. (enough to spray anyway) Will soil sample this weekend. What I want to know is which of the following options would ye go with bearing in mind grass is in relatively short supply on the farm:
Option 1: Burn off with round-up asap, graze and till.
Option 2: Graze, let green up, burn off, graze again and till.

Wondering will I be leaving it a bit late in year with option 2 or would it be worth it to get the extra grazing out of it before tilling ?
Quality new grass for next season is main objective so leaning towards only grazing once more. Field is dry so that won't be an issue unless we get terrible weather.
Thanks

49801

Sami23 wrote: »

Need to reseed a field and looking for some advice. The field was topped last week after being grazed the week before so has an average cover of grass at present. (enough to spray anyway) Will soil sample this weekend. What I want to know is which of the following options would ye go with bearing in mind grass is in relatively short supply on the farm:
Option 1: Burn off with round-up asap, graze and till.
Option 2: Graze, let green up, burn off, graze again and till.

Wondering will I be leaving it a bit late in year with option 2 or would it be worth it to get the extra grazing out of it before tilling ?
Quality new grass for next season is main objective so leaning towards only grazing once more. Field is dry so that won't be an issue unless we get terrible weather.
Thanks

Opt1
Time is marching for reseeding. Late reseeds get a lot probs with weeds.

Marooned75

49801 wrote: »

Opt1
Time is marching for reseeding. Late reseeds get a lot probs with weeds.

Thanks sprayed during week grazing off from today getting soil samples back next week (fri)hope contractor will be in Monday week am I cutting it fine.It ll near end sept for post emergence spray should be ok.

Sami23

Marooned75 wrote: »

Thanks sprayed during week grazing off from today getting soil samples back next week (fri)hope contractor will be in Monday week am I cutting it fine.It ll near end sept for post emergence spray should be ok.

Just wondering how many days after spraying with roundup is it safe to let animals in to graze it ?
Thanks

Marooned75

Sami23 wrote: »

Just wondering how many days after spraying with roundup is it safe to let animals in to graze it ?
Thanks

4 or five I'm told

49801

Sami23 wrote: »

Just wondering how many days after spraying with roundup is it safe to let animals in to graze it ?
Thanks

Most sprays it says 2wks on the container however this is for poisonous weeds to be beyond toxic for animals to consume. I'd be happy enough to graze grass after 4 days if I was under pressure to use it

freedominacup

buffalobilly wrote: »

Hi cut the silage in a field yesterday crop was poor enough so I am going to reseed it question is how long would I need to leave it before spraying it with round up would it need to be greening Up again ? then how long to it can be ploughed. Thanks

Is the field in good order? If so would you not direct drill asap and spray what should be a reasonably green butt after another few days but before new seeds have germinated. 2 bags of 10-10-20 ans 2 tonne of lime will address any short term fertility problems.

Farmer Pudsey

funny man wrote: »

if your ploughing dung first, plough it down then lime.

Would not use dung on a reseed as slugs will thrive on it and attack young grass as it germinates unless you use slug pellets

buffalobilly wrote: »

Hi cut the silage in a field yesterday crop was poor enough so I am going to reseed it question is how long would I need to leave it before spraying it with round up would it need to be greening Up again ? then how long to it can be ploughed. Thanks

I let it green up apply some nitrogen to get it going spray you can then disc or direct drill, if you disc you can use slurry at 2K/acre disc in use gran lime to get pH on top 1/2'' right even if you use ordinary lime as lime take 3-6 months to rise ph. If direct drilling use slug pellets. again gran lime and either slurry or 10.10.20. Remember post emergence spray.

freedominacup

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Would not use dung on a reseed as slugs will thrive on it and attack young grass as it germinates unless you use slug pellets



I let it green up apply some nitrogen to get it going spray you can then disc or direct drill, if you disc you can use slurry at 2K/acre disc in use gran lime to get pH on top 1/2'' right even if you use ordinary lime as lime take 3-6 months to rise ph. If direct drilling use slug pellets. again gran lime and either slurry or 10.10.20. Remember post emergence spray.

Is gran-lime that effective with direct drilling. I was told lime is needed to counteract rotting trash that will be left behind by sprayed off old sod. I don't think 50 kg of gran lime gets it done.

bob charles

freedominacup wrote: »

Is gran-lime that effective with direct drilling. I was told lime is needed to counteract rotting trash that will be left behind by sprayed off old sod. I don't think 50 kg of gran lime gets it done.

and you would be 100% right. Look at your lime dockets and catch a glimpse of the fineness

The standards are:
- Product must have a Total Neutralising Value of not less than 90 per cent.
- All the product must pass through a 3.35 mm sieve.
- Not less than 35% must pass through a 150 m m sieve.
- The moisture content must be less than 3.0%.

Now go check the gran lime specs.

Farmer Pudsey

freedominacup wrote: »

Is gran-lime that effective with direct drilling. I was told lime is needed to counteract rotting trash that will be left behind by sprayed off old sod. I don't think 50 kg of gran lime gets it done.

Granlime or G-lime will raise the ph of ground very fast this is the reason it is effective against rotting trash it stops the top of the ground becoming acidic. Remember grass (especially young grass) really you are only worried about the top half inch (and maybe less) for the first few weeks until the grass establishes. Even if you ph is right I would use a bag of granlime at reseeding especially with discing and direct drilling and even 2/acre on old grassland or where ph is in question.

bob charles

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Granlime or G-lime will raise the ph of ground very fast this is the reason it is effective against rotting trash it stops the top of the ground becoming acidic. Remember grass (especially young grass) really you are only worried about the top half inch (and maybe less) for the first few weeks until the grass establishes. Even if you ph is right I would use a bag of granlime at reseeding especially with discing and direct drilling and even 2/acre on old grassland or where ph is in question.

You have fallen for the sales speal on gran lime, every thing else you mention above is correct

Farmer Pudsey

bob charles wrote: »

You have fallen for the sales speal on gran lime, every thing else you mention above is correct

I have used it for a good few years using about 1/bag acre it is keeping my ph at between 6.5 and 7. Tested last year I think it is a better product than we think or maybe it is just my land. Buy it in with fertilizer at start of year costs 130/ton or 6.5/acre/ year. Can spread when I like and target reseeding and arable silage.

However maybe it is my ground

ABlur

Hope to reseed 10 acres of heavy ground ive burnt off. Plan is disc and powerharrow. Weather forecast looks iffy. Can I disc and leave it a few days or should I be aiming to disc harrow and sow in the shortest time? Thanks.

bob charles

ABlur wrote: »

Hope to reseed 10 acres of heavy ground ive burnt off. Plan is disc and powerharrow. Weather forecast looks iffy. Can I disc and leave it a few days or should I be aiming to disc harrow and sow in the shortest time? Thanks.

best to leave the job alone until you can get it completed in one go. heavy ground disced could turn to mush if you get allot of rain

Sami23

Roughly how many litres of Round Up per acre would ye use for burning off an old grass sward for reseeding ?
Thanks

bob charles

Sami23 wrote: »

Roughly how many litres of Round Up per acre would ye use for burning off an old grass sward for reseeding ?
Thanks

2l per ac, can go a bit higher if your in a rush

Farmer Pudsey

bob charles wrote: »

2l per ac, can go a bit higher if your in a rush

Or use an activator and in this type of weather cattle may be able to go in in 3 days as grass will start to turn.

bob charles

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Or use an activator and in this type of weather cattle may be able to go in in 3 days as grass will start to turn.

What activator are you using. I always just use a mineral Oil which isnt ideal but always have a supply of it. Does a serious job on rushes :cool:

Farmer Pudsey

bob charles wrote: »

What activator are you using. I always just use a mineral Oil which isnt ideal but always have a supply of it. Does a serious job on rushes :cool:

It is a generic one mixer is one I think it is about 16/litre any good spray provider should have it, There is a mill in crecora, county limerick that is fairly good for sprays I hear. I always have keep it on hand very handy always use it if spraying in the spring. Sprayed off a field this time last year or a bit earlier had to let the cattle in after two days I became a real believer after that. Now it was a hybrid I was spraying off so no dirty butt but it only got 1.5L/acre made a mistake with the amount of spray to water. Only disadvantage is when using selective sprays grass can be hit harder than normal. However I think if you want to get rid of weeds you have to accept grass getting checked.

I did a field last year for docks with micram put a bit of activator in it after a 10 days I thaught I had put roundup in by mistake but it recovered and it really cleaned up the field.

Sami23

bob charles wrote: »

2l per ac, can go a bit higher if your in a rush

Cheers Bob

bob charles

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

It is a generic one mixer is one I think it is about 16/litre any good spray provider should have it, There is a mill in crecora, county limerick that is fairly good for sprays I hear. I always have keep it on hand very handy always use it if spraying in the spring. Sprayed off a field this time last year or a bit earlier had to let the cattle in after two days I became a real believer after that. Now it was a hybrid I was spraying off so no dirty butt but it only got 1.5L/acre made a mistake with the amount of spray to water. Only disadvantage is when using selective sprays grass can be hit harder than normal. However I think if you want to get rid of weeds you have to accept grass getting checked.

I did a field last year for docks with micram put a bit of activator in it after a 10 days I thaught I had put roundup in by mistake but it recovered and it really cleaned up the field.

Bond sticker? good chance I probably have some type in store, must take a look

nashmach

Using Kantor here it is dearer than ye lads are saying though

Dozer1

haven't done re-seeding here in a few years, just finished doing drains on a 4 acre plot, its been used as meadow for as long as I can remember but was never reseeded before.

There's a good 5 inches of topsoil on the field and then its muddy after that.

I was thinking of ploughing it to help all the compaction from silage/slurry equipement but was wondering if a few runs of a power harrow would do as good.

last thing I want is to plough too deep and end up burying the good stuff....

Any thoughts

Sami23

Dozer1 wrote: »

haven't done re-seeding here in a few years, just finished doing drains on a 4 acre plot, its been used as meadow for as long as I can remember but was never reseeded before.

There's a good 5 inches of topsoil on the field and then its muddy after that.

I was thinking of ploughing it to help all the compaction from silage/slurry equipement but was wondering if a few runs of a power harrow would do as good.

last thing I want is to plough too deep and end up burying the good stuff....

Any thoughts

If its peaty soil i would disc or power harrow or both.

Dozer1

no peat thankfully good quality topsoil

just do it

Bit the bullet and ordered seed on seeddirect.ie. Plan is to spray monday and harvest the end of the week. Hopefully weather will play ball.

What is this activator I see you guys talking about? Surely Roundup biactive doesn't need anything added?

49801

just do it wrote: »

Bit the bullet and ordered seed on seeddirect.ie. Plan is to spray monday and harvest the end of the week. Hopefully weather will play ball.

What is this activator I see you guys talking about? Surely Roundup biactive doesn't need anything added?

Correct.
Biactive has the wetters in it all ready. If you were using touchdown the additive would be worth considering

Farmer Pudsey

just do it wrote: »

Bit the bullet and ordered seed on seeddirect.ie. Plan is to spray monday and harvest the end of the week. Hopefully weather will play ball.

What is this activator I see you guys talking about? Surely Roundup biactive doesn't need anything added?

An activator or sticker is an agent used with sprays to make the wax on a the green leaf sticky. This serves two purposes it sticks the spray to the leaf but it also open up the wax to allow the spray to get into the plant faster, I think that this is the way it works.

This is an advantage in that it causes the spray to act faster, it has a disadvantage in that there can be more severe setback with selective weedkillers. However I often use it with the selective weedkillers as it hits the selected weeds harder.

just do it

A few words of wisdom on grassland preparation.

Grassland Preparation
Graham Parnell from the leading UK Seed Breeding house Limagrain, recently took the time to call on some farms here in Ireland along with members of our sales team to offer further expertise in relation to reseeding plans and challenges. While there was little doubt that much land was in need of rejuvenation and an overall need for reseeding, one of the things that struck Graham was the guidance farmers were looking for in relation to Grassland Preparation. Here are some tips you may find useful:

Grassland Preparation

1) Check the pH of your soil.
pH is the base ingredient to successful grassland management. Without a good pH base all other inputs whether from a bag or the farmyard simply won't work efficiently. When the pH is too low, Nitrogen, Phosphate and Potash become less available, as do many of the other minor elements.
The standard practice of applying large amounts of lime, normally when a reseed or crop change is called for, throws the soil micro-organisms into disarray which then upsets the working of the soil. Applying regular small applications of lime or liming products will leave the soil microbes and worms in good health, living in an environment which is relatively stable.
Products like G-Lime are ideal for this purpose, when the farmer controls when and where the lime is applied. If the budget is tight, spend on lime before spending on fertilizer it will pay hands down.

2) Harrowing.
Removing the old grass mat in the bottom of a sward not only lets light and air pass around the higher yielding Ryegrasses, it also helps remove the choking creeping grasses in the field, which in turn will extend the life of your grass sward.

Traditional chain harrows do a good job, but the modern spring tine type grass harrow will do an excellent job. There are many manufactures of these Grass Harrows, Opico and Einbock are two that come to mind. Many of these harrows come with a pneumatic seeder box which allows you to over-seed your pastures with grass and/or clovers at will, useful for when the sward gets a bit thin or where the land is not suitable for ploughing and injecting new lift into the sward is required.

These bits of kit are also useful for spreading the dung pats left over after removing stock from a grazing pasture. By spreading the pat you reduce rejection during the next grazing and help spread the valuable nutrients they provide.

Graham Parnell
Grassland Specialist, Limagrain UK Ltd

pat73

Looking for advice on a reseed.I was going to reseed 10 acres in the next couple of weeks.It would be free draining lime stone ground.I normally take a first cut of hay off it which I sell and then the second cut is silage for my self.I graze it after that so it its a well used
field.My plan is to direct drill the seed in.what would be the best mixture of grass seed to get to suit my system.

Farmer Pudsey

pat73 wrote: »

Looking for advice on a reseed.I was going to reseed 10 acres in the next couple of weeks.It would be free draining lime stone ground.I normally take a first cut of hay off it which I sell and then the second cut is silage for my self.I graze it after that so it its a well used
field.My plan is to direct drill the seed in.what would be the best mixture of grass seed to get to suit my system.

Spray before cutting silage use an activator with ordinary gysophate or else use gallup bioactive ( generic roundup bioactive) @ 2 litres/acre. Spread 2K gallons slurry/acre or spread 2 bags 10.10.20/acre and 1-2 bags granlime/acre depending on ph direct drill into stubble apply slug pellets.

If your ground is very dry you can disc the land after slurry spread seed and roll.

Remember a post emergence spray when grass is at the 2 leaf stage.

At this stage of year it is all about speed get it done and use granlime/G-lime as a quick fix for PH. Also high amounts of ordinary lime will soften land a lot so poaching on new reseed may be more of a problem.

In reality I would not get too hung up on grass seed most mixture will do a good job. for instance a mix with red clover will reduce your nitrogen need by about 50%/year and increase protein in silage.

pat73

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Spray before cutting silage use an activator with ordinary gysophate or else use gallup bioactive ( generic roundup bioactive) @ 2 litres/acre. Spread 2K gallons slurry/acre or spread 2 bags 10.10.20/acre and 1-2 bags granlime/acre depending on ph direct drill into stubble apply slug pellets.

If your ground is very dry you can disc the land after slurry spread seed and roll.

Remember a post emergence spray when grass is at the 2 leaf stage.

At this stage of year it is all about speed get it done and use granlime/G-lime as a quick fix for PH. Also high amounts of ordinary lime will soften land a lot so poaching on new reseed may be more of a problem.

In reality I would not get too hung up on grass seed most mixture will do a good job. for instance a mix with red clover will reduce your nitrogen need by about 50%/year and increase protein in silage.

What way would the red clover want to be managed to get it to take hold.

Farmer Pudsey

pat73 wrote: »

What way would the red clover want to be managed to get it to take hold.

Intend to use it next year in a hybrid or Italian mixture. It seems that you can spray weeds in it with MCPA which if true is an advantage. It require a good bit of P&K when established this time of years is not idea for establishing clover however soil temperatures are high so it should take well for the next week to 10 days. It seems that all clover swards benefit from being allowed to go to seed, And they benefit from a neutral PH 6.5-7.

It disadvantages is that it will only last 3-4 years in a sward and needs to be cut as opposed to grazed however this is ideal in a 3 cut system. Because it is high in protein it can be hard to make silage with it however this is not a huge issue and silage will be high in protein.

I have seen figures of over 100kgs of nitrogen/acre this is equivalent to over 200 units of nitrogen per year which is equivalent to maybe 5 bags of urea and you do not have to worry about leaching.

bogman_bass

sprayed off 10 acres this evening. no going back now!

just do it

bogman_bass wrote: »

sprayed off 10 acres this evening. no going back now!

Silage or grazing ground?

bogman_bass

usually silage ground but only got one cut off it this year. been grazing it since then. Hope to get it back to two cuts next year

razor8

sprayed 5 acres today with biactive, fingers crossed the weather stays right