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Autoglym

  • 02-08-2013 12:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭


    Just a quick one on this stuff to some of the lads.

    I've only just picked up a few bottles of various Autoglym products.

    Regarding the EGP - on the bottle it says to leave the product to dry for 30 mins to an hour before buffing off.
    Im wondering if i left it for 3/4 hours, is there any gain to made from doing this?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    They say to leave it 30 mins to an hour, to cover themselves, in reality most of the time I buff it off after 15 mins.

    Its ready to buff off when it dries to a white haze, and just to make sure, wipe your finger on it, and it should come off. If it does, it'll buff off!

    REMEMBER - less is more when applying protection. So 2 or 3 thin layers is far better than one layer lashed on - its better for bonding, but it also means its easier to apply and more importantly easier on the arms buffing it off.
    EGP is a product that is easy to get carried away with, as its a liquid. I find that if you put the product in a spray bottle and spray it onto the panel and spread it around with an applicator works best. As if you try and charge and applicator, its very easy to drown it with product.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    Cheers. So you're saying leaving it on longer makes zero difference?

    Must pick up a spray bottle :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    No, provided that the application has cured properly. In really humid / cold conditions, it might take up to an hour, hence why they say leave it an hour! ;)
    Give it 20-30 mins between buffing off and re-applying another coat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    Grand job.

    Im assuming this stuff is much easier to buff off as its liquidy compared to other thicker products?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 635 ✭✭✭BillJ


    EGP is a sealant is that correct? Does sealant go on before wax?

    Up to now I've just been using wax but maybe I should get some sealant too.

    Sorry for thread hijack


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Slattsy wrote: »
    Im assuming this stuff is much easier to buff off as its liquidy compared to other thicker products?
    Most products are easy enough to buff off - its been the application thats the problem....putting on too much! ;)
    BillJ wrote: »
    EGP is a sealant is that correct? Does sealant go on before wax?

    Up to now I've just been using wax but maybe I should get some sealant too.

    Sorry for thread hijack

    Yes, EGP is a sealant. If you are applying both a sealant and wax, then yes, sealant first.
    There is no need to apply a wax also, its just that sealants tend to have a sharp finish, thats a bit cold...waxes offer a warmer glow. Sealants generally give better protection....so some people like to do both....durable protection and a nice appearance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    Curran wrote: »
    Most products are easy enough to buff off - its been the application thats the problem....putting on too much! ;)

    Yes this has been a problem with me before.

    How many pads would you need to polish a full car, 2 maybe 3?
    The buffing off should only take 1.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    You should only need....
    One applicator for polishing
    One for applying protection

    Buffing off; you should be using a plush microfiber cloth - one for buffing off each...polish and protection.

    When you have finished with all, give them a clean out, but try keep them associated with the product you used them for - so for example, put the polish in a bag with the applicator you used to polish ....the applicator will still have some product in it - so dont kill yourself trying to wash them out...then when you got to polish the next time, the applicator has the same product and is semi charged already - and you arent mixing products also! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    Curran wrote: »
    You should only need....
    One applicator for polishing
    One for applying protection

    Buffing off; you should be using a plush microfiber cloth - one for buffing off each...polish and protection.

    When you have finished with all, give them a clean out, but try keep them associated with the product you used them for - so for example, put the polish in a bag with the applicator you used to polish ....the applicator will still have some product in it - so dont kill yourself trying to wash them out...then when you got to polish the next time, the applicator has the same product and is semi charged already - and you arent mixing products also! :)

    I find the applicator gets very heavy with product - a sure sign im putting too much on !
    But i do try spread it as well as i can. I usually find myself using 2 apps per product.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 791 ✭✭✭georgefalls


    I've left polish or wax on overnight. Buffs off just as easy. Makes no difference how long you leave it, the shine remains constant.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    Swipe test - its reday to come off when you swipe your finger across and their is not streaking


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    That's fair enough. I just wondered was there any added benefit to leaving it on a bit longer. like eextra gloss or shine. Or easier removal of the product.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    My AG rep said the vintage lads leave super resin polish on over six months ................................... LOL why


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    My AG rep said the vintage lads leave super resin polish on over six months ................................... LOL why

    What? As in don't buff off?

    Is this guy crazy?

    Yes, it has limited, in fact no cutting ability, but if you left that on it could make an effort towards peeling the laquer for you.

    Ridiculous.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    LOL SRP is crap so


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    + yes with out wiping off


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    LOL SRP is crap so

    It has it's uses.

    It isn't paint correction, but it is a level of temporary enhancement; and it's accessible for the weekend warrior timidly stepping their toes into this game.

    Autoglym understand the mass market and sponge brigade, but I'm not entirely convinced they get detailing in the way other companies do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    That's plain to see really
    Supplying to someone that dosnt have all the info or experience needed to use full on products

    Im pi$$ed now to find out their is now cut with SRP as i bought a liter in the hope of adding it to my service list
    I dont expect swirl removal just light haze removal but without cut that is impossible


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭TomMc


    Slattsy wrote: »
    That's fair enough. I just wondered was there any added benefit to leaving it on a bit longer. like eextra gloss or shine. Or easier removal of the product.

    Yes and no. If you leave it on for a little while longer, it gives the resins (paint protectants) more time to bond with the paint, before buffing off the excess residue later on. If you were to wipe on and wipe off too quickly, it would reduce the small amount of protection the products lays down.
    My AG rep said the vintage lads leave super resin polish on over six months ................................... LOL why

    I'd say you may have taken him up incorrectly. What he probably said/meant was that they only apply the product every six months. But then classic cars are garaged most of the time, not like daily drivers which need far more protection, as exposed to UV rays 24/7.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭TomMc


    Im pi$$ed now to find out their is now cut with SRP as i bought a liter in the hope of adding it to my service list
    I dont expect swirl removal just light haze removal but without cut that is impossible

    You need abrasives/cut to remove (not hide) scratches and swirls. However, non-abrasive chemical paint cleaners or paintwork cleansers work even better if all you want to do is remove light oxidation, contamination, dull film or paintwork haze.

    SRP is an AIO (all-in-one) product. It is a cleaner polish and sealant in one. It isn't a paint polish for correcting defects (although SRP does fill in light swirl marks). The original version of SRP contained chalk (new version possible still does, I stop using AG products a long time ago!) which like an abrasive gave it some polishing ability. But in terms of polishing power or cut, we are talking about an extremely mild polish, which is more than enough for the average person, particularly when applying by hand.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    Ill give it a go and see as i have said before 98% of polishing i have done is my machine


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