Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

The Sidewards Man

CJhaughey wrote: »

New intake manifold and TB I am guessing, might also want to think about a new radiator, my wifes looks similar and I am thinking about a new one very soon. Need a good gearbox first though as well hers is on the way out, whining and vibrating now.

Nothing worse than a worn out box.

joujoujou

pablo128 wrote: »

They are really easy to change on those engines.

Easy, true, but in case of 4zz the biggest gain goes from TB + manifold. 95hp/130Nm --> 114hp/136Nm. Different story with 3zz engine, as it already has 109hp/150Nm from the factory.

pablo128 wrote: »

You can fit 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0 vvti injectors to the 1.4 engines with the corresponding t/b. I assumed that's what you were doing.

Although 1.4 and 1.6 are exactly the same.

pablo128

joujoujou wrote: »

Easy, true, but in case of 4zz the biggest gain goes from TB + manifold. 95hp/130Nm --> 114hp/136Nm. Different story with 3zz engine, as it already has 109hp/150Nm from the factory.


Although 1.4 and 1.6 are exactly the same.

You have obviously done more homework than me!:D

Good luck with the project.

lafors

So to the harder stuff...

One dirty engine bay with all the parts in a bag


Serpentine belt routing, important "before" picture


First thing was to disconnect the battery in the boot and make sure it can't come back in contact while you're working on the alternator!

Next remove the two covers over the rads and fan so I can get the fan out.


First cover removed, 6 vertical and 4 long horizontal torx screw removed.



Unplug the two electrical connectors on the fan (drivers side)


Second cover removed, 5 torx to remove. Make sure to remember to unclip the coolant return line before you start pulling it out



Now I can remove the fan unit. There are two tabs, the one on the passenger side folds back. First you need to lift the whole unit a couple of inches to get the tabs out of their mounts on the rad, then you can fold back the one on the passenger side. Its easiest to do this between these two coolant pipes in the first picture.



Space to work

lafors

That alternator is looking pretty grimey


Torx T60 to back off the belt tensioner, and an allen key used as a pin to hold Belt off


Old belt, bit of wear, not too bad I think.



Next bit is very important if you don't want to be replacing a rad too!
Get a box from lidl and put it in front of the rad so you don't damage the fins when you tugging on/cursing at the alternator.


Alternator....very dirty down there



Alternator out. To get it out remove the two 16mm bolts and rotate it until it starts to slide out, it will be stiff.
The bottom bolt (longer one) goes through two holes at the front and back of the alternator. You can't pull it straight out because of this so you need to shift it down towards the wheel to get it to free up, then slide it out.
When you're sliding it out you need to be careful as there isn't much slack in the 2 connections. One is a click in and the other is held on with a nut.


The back of it with the two places on the left in this picture for the connectors I was talking about. Very dirty.

lafors

Now to replace the voltage regulator. Take the 3 8mm nuts off to remove the back cover to expose it.


Voltage Regulator exposed, it's very dirty, loads of carbon.


And I was right, the brushes on the regulator are worn and the top one (there's two) had completely broken off and disintegrated leaving a mess of carbon everywhere.


There should be two brushes here but the one below is gone.


Cleaned (slightly) and new voltage regulator fitted.



To get a better look at the mess in there I jacked up the car and this is the only point I could put the stand.


Remove the wheel arch lining, a bucket load of screws...that's not even all of them!

lafors

With the alternator out, it's a mess in there


And here's exactly what I was afraid of. It's not just the alternator bracket gasket its the chain cover gasket. They all tend to go around the same time.



So once I saw this I decided to stop, refit everything and reassess for another day. I think I'll end up dropping this into motor confidence to get all the gaskets done, get the valve stem seals done at the same time and they're bound to go at some stage.

So putting it all back together, it's like most guides say, just do the reverse.....EXCEPT....if you're fitting your own alternator back in then you need to do one thing.
The threaded hole at the back of the alternator that the long bolt goes through actually pulls itself toward the front of the alternator when it's being fitted, it's to make sure its a snug fit and doesn't move. Now this is a complete PITA if you didn't spot this and could lead to 2 hours of trying to get the alternator back in and loads of swearing and huffing and puffing.
So what you need to do before refitting is to screw the long bolt in slightly and get a rubber mallet and give it a good few tappy tappys until it slides back in. Now you can refit!



Back in with new pulley fitted.


Replacement pulley on bottom of alternator (INA number if anyone is interested).


Belt on


Bit of a clean underneath


All back together


(Video) Started...dunno why it sounds like I'm in a swimming pool
http://vid205.photobucket.com/albums/bb12/lafors/Mobile%20Uploads/VID20160501193103_zps8hytturp.mp4

Voodoomelon

Fair play, a lot of hard work there!

JohnBoy26

The Sidewards Man wrote: »

Nothing worse than a worn out box.

A broken timing belt and engine damage is worse. The box in those Toyotas isn't the worst to repair tbh.

iano.p

Changed the oil and all filters on the passat for 66. 6 months tax for 373. Two new tyres and tracking for 290. New wipers 37. My wallet is alot lighter all set for summer now.

shietpilot

Cleaned up and greased the brake pads all around as they started to squeal during braking since the track day. All good now, the grease on the sliding pins was like glue from the heat probably

Messed about with the diagnostics too and enabled automatic door locking once the car is moving and automatic double-locking when you press the lock button on the key fob.

Hal1

Did you try to disable the auto locking feature? try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdEw2kWuZFA

Toyotafanboi

Another month, another oil and filter.

Generally I use Mobil oil and a Blueprint filter... Not any more :pac:

shietpilot

Hal1 wrote: »

Did you try to disable the auto locking feature? try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdEw2kWuZFA

Nah it was already disabled. I enabled it

JohnBoy26

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

Another month, another oil and filter.

Generally I use Mobil oil and a Blueprint filter... Not any more :pac:

Nothing wrong with the blueprint filter tbh. They are actually good filters.

Ded_Zebra

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

Nothing wrong with the blueprint filter tbh. They are actually good filters.

I would second that. Very impressed with their stuff. Used them on the Levin for a while but then changed to Toyota. Used blueprint stuff on the Primera too.

GvidoR

How can you tell the difference between those filters after you've put them on?

JohnBoy26

GvidoR wrote: »

How can you tell the difference between those filters after you've put them on?

The different name is all you'll see if you have a look at the filter. One will say Toyota and the other will say blueprint.

GvidoR

That's why I said "after you put them on". How can you tell if a filter is "good" or better than another one?

JohnBoy26

GvidoR wrote: »

That's why I said "after you put them on". How can you tell if a filter is "good" or better than another one?

You can't really. Cutting them in half and comparing them might give you an idea. I never had a problem with blueprint filters though and I have used them on all my cars.

Noccy_Mondy

How does shell helix ultra compare to others?

fancy pigeon

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

How does shell helix ultra compare to others?

I used to use it exclusively before it became unavailable, I found it to be top notch. Nowadays I use Millers/Comma/Mobil

Toyotafanboi

Wasn't suggesting that Blueprint were bad, I never felt they performed badly, personally.

I do the oil and filter every 4-5k miles. The car takes 4.5 liters to change and then I use the spare 500ml to top up usually around 2k-2500 miles after the change

After 5k the Mobil is usually still very clean looking (whether that's good or bad is debatable).

I guess the proof of the Shell will be how it looks after 5k and if I need to top up before or after the usual 2k ballpark.

Nice to be back in the trade, got the genuine filter and the gallon of Shell for less than what i'd usually pay for oil alone.

MetzgerMeister

The only reason for oil turning black is due to heat oxidation. Nothing to do with how well/badly it works in your engine.

Foxhole Norman

Quick job this evening but made a massive difference to the car, new fogs lamps and surrounds

Old:







New:







New genuine headlights next to complete the Front end refresh

YbFocus

How much and where? :pac:

Foxhole Norman

YbFocus wrote: »

How much and where? :pac:

They came with the spurious bumper I got for the Imola E39 :pac:

YbFocus

Foxhole Norman wrote: »

They came with the spurious bumper I got for the Imola E39 :pac:

Damn
Mine are looking a bit tired too!

Voodoomelon

Some wheel cleaning and sealing.













Spot the shard of metal stuck in the tyre? It didn't penetrate through thank god. I didn't realise the rears were so bad either, there's only about 14,000 miles on this set.

Have a full set of Continental Sport Contact 5's arriving next week.

Atavan-Halen

Decided to stick a boost gauge in the Colt. Went for a mechanical one as I picked it up cheap off eBay and wanted a greddy one.



One filthy engine bay



From reading other forums, most people with the ralliart colts tap into the vacuum source here. Seeing as it's the same engine decided to do the same.



Was an absolute pain in the Arse trying to get the hose through the firewall without drilling a hole as there are no blank grommets to go through, but managed to get it in the existing hole with the main wiring loom.



Temporarily mounted on the dash via electrical tape until I decide where I want to properly mount it :pac: