Seized Seatpost

keizer

My alloy seatpost is seized in my carbon frame. Does anyone have a solution? It's at the correct height for me but even using a longish screwdriver as a lever it won't budge.

Any help greatly appreciated.

DirkVoodoo

I feel your pain.

Mine is more than likely terminal. Do you know how far your tube is inserted into the frame?

keizer

Not sure how deep, was thinking of cutting it and using a hacksaw blade to cut through it into the frame vertically in sections and peeling it back with a pliers - seems to be the only viable solution. It does look like it's terminal to be honest.

The problem with it is that it's the correct height but it's bugging me.

jca

Would one of those freezing sprays the electronics repair guys use be any good? Maybe it would shrink it enough to loosen its grip.

DirkVoodoo

keizer wrote: »

Not sure how deep, was thinking of cutting it and using a hacksaw blade to cut through it into the frame vertically in sections and peeling it back with a pliers - seems to be the only viable solution. It does look like it's terminal to be honest.

The problem with it is that it's the correct height but it's bugging me.

If it's the correct height and you don't need to remove it for transportation, I'd leave it. Seriously.

It sounds straightforward: make some vertical cuts, pull slivers away with pliers, fold tube in on itself and voila.

In reality it's not. And it's best not to realise this after you start the job.

It's only terminal after you start cutting and can't make progress.

keizer

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

If it's the correct height and you don't need to remove it for transportation, I'd leave it. Seriously.

It sounds straightforward: make some vertical cuts, pull slivers away with pliers, fold tube in on itself and voila.

In reality it's not. And it's best not to realise this after you start the job.

It's only terminal after you start cutting and can't make progress.

You're probably right Dirk - looks like you saved me from getting a rush of blood to the head and doing this over the weekend!

keizer

jca wrote: »

Would one of those freezing sprays the electronics repair guys use be any good? Maybe it would shrink it enough to loosen its grip.

That thought did cross my mind too at one stage. I see someone on the internet recommends using lemon juice or coke. If I knew of someone trying these methods successfully I'd do it.

gctest50

Mercury should make bits of the seat post for you - don't know what it does to carbon fibre though

DirkVoodoo

keizer wrote: »

You're probably right Dirk - looks like you saved me from getting a rush of blood to the head and doing this over the weekend!

Yes, indeed. I resorted to sawing. Plenty of hours put into it and it's nowhere near ready to come out. Probably a good few days of work left in it, no shop will want to touch it so if you do decide to go ahead with it, be prepared to commit:

keizer

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

Yes, indeed. I resorted to sawing. Plenty of hours put into it and it's nowhere near ready to come out. Probably a good few days of work left in it, no shop will want to touch it so if you do decide to go ahead with it, be prepared to commit:

Thanks Dirk, great advice. In my case: If it's not broken, don't fix it.

Here some mercury on aluminium:

gctest50

Bit of gallium - bit safer, cheaper ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gallium-99-99%25-Pure-30g/dp/B00C7UMUTA

gctest50

Konkers

As above I'd leave it if its not broken.

However if you want to try something that will not damage the frame but you are prepared to leave the bike out of commission for a day or two days maybe give this a go.

Get a can large can of WD40 from any DIY shop (just €4 for the smaller bottle, but, it may not be enough).
Take the bottom bracket out of the frame.
Turn the frame upside down and fill the seat tube (use the long nozzle) with the WD40. leave it for a day a day of two like that. That should give enough time for WD40 to seep into the gap between the outside of the seatpost and the inside of the frame.

I had pieace of a baring stock to the steerer of a carbon fork and it loosen it in a couple of minutes. Great stuff.

WAPAIC

Konkers wrote: »

As above I'd leave it if its not broken.

However if you want to try something that will not damage the frame but you are prepared to leave the bike out of commission for a day or two days maybe give this a go.

Get a can large can of WD40 from any DIY shop (just €4 for the smaller bottle, but, it may not be enough).
Take the bottom bracket out of the frame.
Turn the frame upside down and fill the seat tube (use the long nozzle) with the WD40. leave it for a day a day of two like that. That should give enough time for WD40 to seep into the gap between the outside of the seatpost and the inside of the frame.

I had pieace of a baring stock to the steerer of a carbon fork and it loosen it in a couple of minutes. Great stuff.

I think WD40 is bad for carbon? Can you heat carbon? I got a very stuck seatpost out of an aluminium frame by heating it gently with a small blowtorch and using a bar slotted through the saddle rails. Took a while though.

Konkers

WAPAIC wrote: »

I think WD40 is bad for carbon? Can you heat carbon? I got a very stuck seatpost out of an aluminium frame by heating it gently with a small blowtorch and using a bar slotted through the saddle rails. Took a while though.

Not according to the manufacturer. They do make bike specific products too. http://www.wd40bike.com/products/

WAPAIC

Konkers wrote: »

Not according to the manufacturer. They do make bike specific products too. http://www.wd40bike.com/products/

My bad. You can actually get penetrating oil which might be even better.

Vino Veritas

Even the Blue bike above can be saved at this stage, if you go to someone that knows what he is doing , and has the tools for the job (Not a hacksaw)

jca

Vino Veritas wrote: »

Even the Blue bike above can be saved at this stage, if you go to someone that knows what he is doing , and has the tools for the job (Not a hacksaw)

How will "someone" do it?

Brian?

I think to begin with the law of the lever is your friend.

Use wd40 and then try to twist the seat post using the longest lever you can find. Why stop at a screw driver?

keizer

Hi Brian? I was afraid I'd crack the frame to be honest

Brian?

keizer wrote: »

Hi Brian? I was afraid I'd crack the frame to be honest

Leave it alone so

keizer

The only thing is that its like an itch you can't scratch

jca

Brian? wrote: »

I think to begin with the law of the lever is your friend.

Use wd40 and then try to twist the seat post using the longest lever you can find. Why stop at a screw driver?

Because its a carbon fibre frame. I can't understand why builders don't put a small bit of lubricant on the seat post when building the bike in the first place.

C3PO

keizer wrote: »

The only thing is that its like an itch you can't scratch

I'm afraid I'd be the same! I'm sure the advice from the lads to just leave it alone it the correct course of action but I'd just have to have a go!!! Every time I saw the bike it would irritate me otherwise ..... must be the OCD!

el tel

Leave it there and consider it an integrated seatpost!

jca

One thing you could try is making a plasticine collar around the joint and filling it with penetrating oil.

DirkVoodoo

It's not rust. If it's an alloy seatpost fused to an alloy liner, aluminium oxide can't be broken down by WD40 or penetrating oil.

You need ammonia to break down aluminium oxide.

jca

One thing you could try is making a plasticine collar and filling it with ammonia. Now is everyone happy?? Any more corrections needed?

Cee-Jay-Cee

If the seat is at the correct height I'd honestly just leave it rather than risk damaging the frame.

If its fused solid then chances are if you do manage to remove it you'll need to buy a new seat post which you will then insert at the exact same height again. Hardly seems worth it.

WAPAIC

I presume that means you can just piss on it and it will come loose?

Another suggestion - you can heat it or pour chemicals into it's plasticine drip tray and then you can try tap it in with a mallet - if you get it to move you will hopefully have broken the bond and it will slide out. Of course, you may just jam it in further and then it will be both stuck and too low. Worse case scenario is you get it out laterally, of course.

Konkers

WAPAIC wrote: »

I presume that means you can just piss on it and it will come loose?

Another suggestion - you can heat it or pour chemicals into it's plasticine drip tray and then you can try tap it in with a mallet - if you get it to move you will hopefully have broken the bond and it will slide out. Of course, you may just jam it in further and then it will be both stuck and too low. Worse case scenario is you get it out laterally, of course.

:pac:

Sorry, couldn't resist. You probably meant this but it needed the PAC for people like me.

WAPAIC

Konkers wrote: »

:pac:

Sorry, couldn't resist. You probably meant this but it needed the PAC for people like me.

Never drink and post:) Although a few beers could help in this situation...