Do my discs and pads need changing?

John2009

Hi just wondering would it be advisable to change my discs and pads on my Renault Megane, the car has been parked up almost 5 years, or is there a brake disc cleaner than can be got to clean up the discs etc?,

This car is not being driven right now and is off the road getting bits and pieces done in preparation for the NCT

Thanks

listermint

Id change them tbh. The disks look like they are getting a tad thin.

Others would say you'll get away with it.

But if you putting some money into it now, get them done too so its all under the same labour and your sorted for the near future too.


Change them

John2009

They look rough alrite, any chance of a rough guide price of labour costs for a disc and pad change for a 2001 Renault Megane Hatchback, would love to try and do it myself to keep costs down if it was a handy enough job to do

CiniO

IMHO they look OK.
All the rust from fraction area of the disc will disappear after first heavier braking.
Pads looks nearly like brand new.

I wouldn't change them.

listermint

John2009 wrote: »

They look rough alrite, any chance of a rough guide price of labour costs for a disc and pad change for a 2001 Renault Megane Hatchback, would love to try and do it myself to keep costs down if it was a handy enough job to do

Disks probably around the 40-60 mark depending where you buy them, Pads 20-30. You could do it yourself quite easily. Just remember to put everything back as you found it. And pump the brakes before you set off driving. As my neighbour found out to his near detrement after some DIYing

Avns1s

I'd run them and see. I don't agree that they look thin. There is a bit of a lip but nothing overly excessive as best I can see.

I'd be more concerned about the condition of the pads than the discs at the start. There seems to be enough depth on them but I'd like to see better pictures of the pads to be sure.

Moreso though, the main concern I would have would be whether or not the calipers are seized and the condition of the flexible hoses and after that the fluid.

listermint

CiniO wrote: »

IMHO they look OK.
All the rust from fraction area of the disc will disappear after first heavier braking.
Pads looks nearly like brand new.

I wouldn't change them.

Heading their way out the disk space is thinner than the centre spacing and there is a nice lip forming on the outer. Whats the point in leaving them on ?

Also compare the depth of the rear part to the front part of the disk. Completely different. Theres nothing gained by leaving them bar saving a 80 quid...

John2009

The girlfriend transferred her insurance onto it for a day a few weeks ago to get it down to a mechanic to replace an engine gearbox mount that had worn and i was in the passenger and she said they felt fine and was able to brake the car handy enough, now after the short spin and braking session the discs did clean up abit but once it was home and parked back up they started to weather abit again,

also would it be recommend if i do decide to keep the original discs and pads on the car is it advisable to change the brake fluid and flush the system?

Thanks

Avns1s

listermint wrote: »

Heading their way out the disk space is thinner than the centre spacing and there is a nice lip forming on the outer. Whats the point in leaving them on ?

Also compare the depth of the rear part to the front part of the disk. Completely different. Theres nothing gained by leaving them bar saving a 80 quid...

With eyesight like yours, you're wasted in here!:P:P

Seriously though, I have no idea how you can glean sufficient to make that statement about the disc space being thinner at the outside, from those pictures.

listermint

Avns1s wrote: »

With eyesight like yours, you're wasted in here!:P:P

Seriously though, I have no idea how you can sufficient to make that statement about the disc space being thinner at the outside, from those pictures.

4th image down its about 3-4mm in the difference of front of disk depth to rear of disk dept. Meaning the front is getting more pressure than the rear.

So yeah needs an oul changing.


Also OP yes its always advisable to change the brake fluid on the car, specifically if its being sat up. There would be condensation in it and or bubbles. Which is terrible for braking ability.

John2009

Theres a definite difference between bot sides of the disc, what would cause that?

Avns1s

John2009 wrote: »

Theres a definite difference between bot sides of the disc, what would cause that?

Is it the same both sides?

John2009

Avns1s wrote: »

Is it the same both sides?

I'll be taking the driver side wheel off later as i'm getting tyres fitted tomorrow so will post a photo in about 30mins or so

biko

Discs get a rust coat pretty fast, it'll wear off as soon as you start driving.
The pad I can see has plenty of material still.
I'd say they would pass the nct no bother.
Keep driving on them and take it handy at first until the rust on the disc is gone.

At the end of the day it's your call.

ba_barabus

biko wrote: »

Keep driving on them and take it handy at first until the rust on the disc is gone.

This.

Personally I'd take it to an industrial estate and give it a few hard brakes to clean the disks. My car and been parked up when I bought it and the brakes were very bad until they scrubbed themselves clean which didn't take long.

At this stage I'd put it into the NCT and then start spending if they find anything else wrong. A service first however would be a good idea as would changing the t/belt and water pump. Tyres would also be a worry.

John2009

ba_barabus wrote: »

This.

Personally I'd take it to an industrial estate and give it a few hard brakes to clean the disks. My car and been parked up when I bought it and the brakes were very bad until they scrubbed themselves clean which didn't take long.

At this stage I'd put it into the NCT and then start spending if they find anything else wrong. A service first however would be a good idea as would changing the t/belt and water pump. Tyres would also be a worry.

I fully serviced it myself a few weeks ago, oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, ignition coils and changed the gearbox oil 2 weeks ago in it,

Got 2 Continental PremiumContact part worns for the back wheels and have 2 more PremiumContacts to go on the front tomorrow, part worn again,

theres 79500 miles on it and the timing belt and water pump were both done at 65000 miles

ba_barabus

John2009 wrote: »

theres 79500 miles on it and the timing belt and water pump were both done at 65000 miles

How long ago though?

the t/belt is made of rubber which perishes over time especially so if it's not being used.

John2009

ba_barabus wrote: »

How long ago though?

the t/belt is made of rubber which perishes over time especially so if it's not being used.

At a guess id say probably over 6 years ago, will i take photos of the timing belt condition

ba_barabus

John2009 wrote: »

At a guess id say probably over 6 years ago, will i take photos of the timing belt condition

Not much point as you may not be able to see anything.

I'd change it before running it and revving it in anyway hard which an NCT will do.

John2009

Looks just as bad as the perished tyre i had on it

hi_im_fil

Thats the alternator belt, not the timing belt.

dgt

John2009 wrote: »

Theres a definite difference between bot sides of the disc, what would cause that?

Piccy

Sticking sliders normally cause uneven disc wear

SV

Alternator belt needs changing, definitely.
As does the timing belt if it's been waiting for a change as long as that, ready to snap I'd say

John2009

hi_im_fil wrote: »

Thats the alternator belt, not the timing belt.

John2009

SV wrote: »

Alternator belt needs changing, definitely.
As does the timing belt if it's been waiting for a change as long as that, ready to snap I'd say

What about the water pump would you advise that being done aswell

SV

John2009 wrote: »

What about the water pump would you advise that being done aswell

If you're going to go through the effort of getting in at the timing belt then it usually just makes good sense to do the water pump.

It could be fine though but for the sake of it I'd definitely do it.

Nonoperational

Yep.

Renegade Mechanic

Id change the brakes. Renaults, more than any other make I can think of, have a nasty habit of losing the face area of their discs. (Corrosion happens under the polished face due to perforation on a small and sections detach) . Age does it more than mileage and they often end up looking like this.

Yours could look like that after a few thousand miles or less, especially if old. Dont bother with genuine, theres no point. Spurious is as good here and less than a third the price. Rear discs have the wheel bearing integrated into them so youll need a decent press to do them if the new rear discs don't come with bearings installed.

That belt definitely needs changing.
The timing belt has a five year age limit and a 100k mileage limit. So Id probably change that too.. As mentioned, do the water pump as the bearings tend to fail under the increased tension of a new belt and If the foremost camshaft pulley looks like this;

You'll have to change that too as they nearly always fail afterwards. Unless it's a 1.4 in which case you won't have that pulley at all. Hope this helps!:)

Voodoomelon

Two locator bolts on the discs, they'll be fun to get off!

dgt

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Two locator bolts on the discs, they'll be fun to get off!

Probably alright to take off, they just hold the disc in place, wheel studs put the real pressure on. The real fun is getting the disc off the hub

slimjimmc

John2009 wrote: »

What about the water pump would you advise that being done aswell

It makes sense to replace a water pump too as a preventative measure.

John2009

Thanks for all the helpful advise, could any of Ye point me in the direction of the full timing belt kit, alternator belt and whatever else is needed to sort those things out first?

John2009

Which of these water pump + timing belt kit would you recommend to me or is there better out there

http://www.mister-auto.ie/en/timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump/renault-megane-i-ba0-1-1-4-16v-ba0d-ba1h-ba0w-ba10-95hp_v11487_g3096.html

renofan

slimjimmc wrote: »

It makes sense to replace a water pump too as a preventative measure.

I would change it when doing the belt (which you should definitely do). On the brakes I'd leave the pads and discs but I'd get the calipers/flexi hoses looked at and fresh brake fluid.

Are you using an indi to do the work? Would he get the parts or you could go in with a list to your local motor factors and ask for their best price on the lot.

H3llR4iser

John2009 wrote: »

Which of these water pump + timing belt kit would you recommend to me or is there better out there

http://www.mister-auto.ie/en/timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump/renault-megane-i-ba0-1-1-4-16v-ba0d-ba1h-ba0w-ba10-95hp_v11487_g3096.html

I see you have a K4J 750, same engine as me - I got the TB+WP+SB job done recently, frankly I don't remember which kit went on; I seem to remember Gates, but maybe it's just because the name is more familiar.

Watch out if you plan on doing the job yourself, it requires a set of specific tools to lock the camshafts in place - the tools might be pricey if you only plan to use them once.

And most definitely change the water pump and services belt as well; The pump is prone to develop leaks and is driven directly by the timing belt on that particular engine.

Stella Virgo

do you really think it worth the cost changing,water pump,timing belt,alt belt.new discs and pads,rear shoes,(and drums?) and all the tyres ,plus the cost of nct,and probaly a retest again, after all it is a renault ???????
sell it as is,take the cash put one grand with it,and you will gets loads of perfect cars on done deal,with brand new nct ,ready to drive away:)

Renegade Mechanic

Agreed. I like them but op could do all this work, only to come out one rainy morning to find all his windows down

John2009

Getting the timing belt kit with water pump and alternator belt done on Friday, mechanic said he will be using Gates parts and will do the whole lot for €280, he reckons itll take around 2 hours to complete the job,

Does that sound reasonable price wise?

wonski

Very reasonable imo, i was quoted 400 on one occasion.
What is the parts cost, because i can't see him making much profit from this job?

Edit: TB kits cost less than when i enquired, so ignore above post. Back then it was around 200 for same engine...

John2009

wonski wrote: »

Very reasonable imo, i was quoted 400 on one occasion.
What is the parts cost, because i can't see him making much profit from this job?

Edit: TB kits cost less than when i enquired, so ignore above post. Back then it was around 200 for same engine...

I think the timing belt kit plus water pump is around €177 and I think he said he can get the parts abut cheaper trough the trade and pass it on to me the savings and his rate is €45 per hour,

Would he do the whole lot in 2.5 hours??

Renegade Mechanic

John2009 wrote: »

Getting the timing belt kit with water pump and alternator belt done on Friday, mechanic said he will be using Gates parts and will do the whole lot for €280, he reckons itll take around 2 hours to complete the job,

Does that sound reasonable price wise?

Two hours is very optimistic unless he's well versed and even then, three is good. I'd allow half a day into your plans so you can accommodate the call he may have to make telling you itll be a little longer.

Quazzie

Renegade Mechanic wrote: »

Two hours is very optimistic unless he's well versed and even then, three is good. I'd allow half a day into your plans so you can accommodate the call he may have to make telling you itll be a little longer.

Some cars are easier than others. I had a 1.0 Seat Ibiza timing belt change, down to a half hour when I worked in Seat

John2009

Bought this lastnight for my car, great value compared to the same setup from MisterAuto which would cost me about €185 delivered

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ie/viewitem?index=0&sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=200864287126