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What to look for in 00 fiesta

  • 23-06-2013 11:51am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭


    Hi,
    I'm looking at a 00 fiesta this evening and I'm just wondering what are some common faults in them.

    It's the 1.25 ghia model with just over 100k miles.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    Rust is the main issue with these IMO. Mechanically they usually don't cause any major bills.

    Sills, rear wheel arches, rear beam support point, bottom of A pillars and around the fuel filler cap are the most common areas for corrosion to take hold.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,221 ✭✭✭NuckingFacker


    As George said - corrosion. I reckon the Fiesta is a great little car, especially the 1.25 - but check that the engine has had regular oil changes - that's the jap based unit AFAIK and it likes fresh oil. If the body was un-rusted(unlikly but there you go) any other mechanical maladies are usually easily sorted. If it is rusty, walk away and find another. The colour seems to make a big difference with darker colours resisting corrosion better than light colours(paint composition). Much the same as with transits etc etc. Fords do love going rusty.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭colincork


    Ya rust seems to be a problem alright,I've looked at a few rust buckets already

    How long do the clutches usually last on these? That would probably be the one problem that could kill a fezzy.
    I know it depends on how it's driven but is there a ballpark mileage?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,579 ✭✭✭Mr McBoatface


    If service regularly they are a sound car I'm driving one 9 years, other can getting the clutch replaced last year at around 1000,000 mile I've never had to put any money in it (other than servicing).

    Look for evidence of recent enough t-belt change, but rust, especially on back wheel arches is a big problem.....it's taken hold of mine in a bad way. Look for evidence of repairs on the wheel arches, they may look OK at a glance but a half arsed cover up of rust will soon out itself down the road

    Not so big but annoying as hell - check doors locks to ensure the work, open and close on both sides with the key. The in car heater can get stuck on either blowing hot as or cold air.

    Others here will give you more mechanically minded stuff to look at.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭colincork


    Thanks very much everyone!

    If someone did have a few tips on the mechanical side of it it'd be great!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,221 ✭✭✭NuckingFacker


    jobyrne30 wrote: »
    If service regularly they are a sound car I'm driving one 9 years, other can getting the clutch replaced last year at around 1000,000 mile I've never had to put any money in it (other than servicing).

    Look for evidence of recent enough t-belt change, but rust, especially on back wheel arches is a big problem.....it's taken hold of mine in a bad way. Look for evidence of repairs on the wheel arches, they may look OK at a glance but a half arsed cover up of rust will soon out itself down the road

    Not so big but annoying as hell - check doors locks to ensure the work, open and close on both sides with the key. The in car heater can get stuck on either blowing hot as or cold air.

    Others here will give you more mechanically minded stuff to look at.
    Someone bright told me that leaving the dial set half-way between hot and cold causes the system to keep cycling and stops the flaps etc from siezing up. If it gets left on just plain cold it usually sticks there eventually and turning the dial has no effect on the heater valve. Half way FTW- and it seems much the same goes for a lot of other cars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    Someone bright told me that leaving the dial set half-way between hot and cold causes the system to keep cycling and stops the flaps etc from siezing up. If it gets left on just plain cold it usually sticks there eventually and turning the dial has no effect on the heater valve. Half way FTW- and it seems much the same goes for a lot of other cars.

    The heater issue is usualy as a result of the heater control valve going. Easy fix, and cheap. Other common issues are rough idleing, either cleaning or replacing the idle speed control valve will help/cure. The timing belt would have been due a change after ten years or 100,000 miles, check it has been done, and ford use a 10 year coolant, so that may need a change too.

    Otherwise a great little car, will go forever, or until it falls apart from rear arch rust :D


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