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Dimmer for LED light

  • 22-06-2013 2:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭


    I have a Robus 14w LED light that I am trying to dim. I'm using a trailing edge dimmer and one of these things;http://www.hytronik.com/pdf/led/HE2050-A2.PDF

    The dimmer still only makes the light go on or off. I have the mains side of that driver connected to L and N and the output to channel 1. Should I be connecting into the 0/10v terminals or what am I doing wrong does anybody know?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    Firstly, is the lamp dimmable, which robus lamp is it.
    secondly, at a quick glance, that driver seems to use a retractive switch.
    Because the switch is spring loaded, one short push brings on the lamp, when you push and hold it will dim up or dim down depending on the cycle.
    also, what is the output voltage, is the driver dimming low voltage or mains.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭17larsson


    This is the light (page 25);
    http://www.ledgrouprobus.com/images/uploads/page-content/2012%20ROBUS%20Catalogue.pdf It's a Robus 'Sun circular LED panel light'.

    The output voltage is 50v.

    I have the switch wire from the dimmer switch going into the L, there is also a 'switch-dim' terminal but when I connect the sw wire into it the light doesn't turn on at all. I'm sure it's something simple I just don't want to connect it wrong and damage it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    it does'nt mention in the catalogue that the fitting is dimmable.
    it also looks like it has an integrated driver and is only suitable for connection to mains voltage.
    someone else might confirm this but the driver your connecting your dimmer to, is designed to be used with a retractive switch connected at the 1-10v terminals. The instructions further down the page seem to lean towards this type of opperation.

    just to clarify, are you only using the dimmable driver or are you using the driver supplied with the fitting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭17larsson


    I was told it could be fitted with a driver to dim it and they sent it back to me with this new driver to replace the original. They never mentioned anything about a retractive switch. Would the trailing edge dimmer switch and the neutral connected to the 0/10v be worth a try?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    17larsson wrote: »
    I was told it could be fitted with a driver to dim it and they sent it back to me with this new driver to replace the original. They never mentioned anything about a retractive switch. Would the trailing edge dimmer switch and the neutral connected to the 0/10v be worth a try?

    ok that makes a bit more sense, am i right when i say your dimmer is a rotory type, and if so is it a two way dimmer with 3 terminals, com, l1 and l2.
    looking at the diagram i cant see how a rotory dimmer could be used, but a retractive switch is common for dimming systems used in flouresent and led.
    your supply live should be in com and your feed should be in l1 on the dimmer.

    I would not advise connecting a mains feed to the 1-10v terminals, these are usually a control circut and im pretty sure it will damage the driver.
    you could try supplying the driver with a supply and wiring the dimmer into the 1-10v terminals


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭17larsson


    Do you mean the permanent live at the light into the L and the switch wire from the dimmer into the 10v? Would the neutral go into N and the 0v? That would still be mains across the 0/10v though.

    Cheers for all your replies mate and sorry for all the questions. The wholesalers wasn't open today so I couldn't call them to ask advice or to get the suppliers phone number


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    its a long shot but if you feed the driver with a perminant live and neutral into L&N, then wire the dimmer into the 1-10v terminals with 10v+ wired into com on the dimmer and 10v- wired into L1 on the dimmer also.
    you are replacing where the retractive switch would usually go with a dimmer.

    you could also try supplying a live and neutral to the driver, then take a link wire from the the same live into com on the dimmer and a wire from L1 on the dimmer to the switch dim terminal on the driver

    all of the above is speculation, i still think its only posible with a retractive switch, can you pm me the wholesaler who you were dealing with.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭17larsson


    The permanent live going down to the switch needs to stay as a PL though because it's a two gang switch with the other switch switching a different light


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    i think you need a perminant live at the driver connected to the L and a switched live to the switch dim connection.
    or a pair of switch wires to the 1-10v connections.
    if you havent a perminant live at the fitting ye might have to run a switch feed from the dimmer to the fitting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭17larsson


    I have a permanent live at the light so I might try that even though when I tried the switch wire in the L terminal it turned on and off so if I put the PL in the L terminal I imagine it will stay always on but maybe with the switch wire in the 'switch-dim' terminal it could work. I just worry about connecting 230v into units like this when I'm not sure of the proper connections incase I blow something up


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 270 ✭✭liveandnetural


    post a picture of the driver on the light and a picture of the dimmer your using

    robus led use the dali system http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Addressable_Lighting_Interface

    some diagrams in here worth a look http://www.hacel.net/pages/downloads/wiring-diagrams.php


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