First-timer building from frameset - questions!

RonanCFD

I'm attempting a build up from a frameset for the first time, no doubt these will only be the first of a large number of questions

The frameset came with a headset & steerer bung, but I can't work out what the item highlighted in green is for:

It has an internal M6 thread - is it a spare part for the bung in case you want to use a headset cap with an M6 bolt (the cap that came with it uses a smaller diameter bolt)

Also the cable for the rear brake runs internally, but there are no stops for the cable housing (donor bike had cable running externally)





Do I just have one piece of cable housing running all the way from the lever to the brake caliper? Could I get away in the short term with just adding another piece of housing to whats there already, with electrical tape over the joint, as this would save having to unwrap & rewrap the bars on that side (which are double-wrapped as well). I'm not quite as lazy as I sound, as I'm planning to replace all of the cabling once I get hold of the right colour cable housing, but its out of stock with a long wait time and I would like to have use of the bike in the meantime.

All advice welcome!

Ronan

ashleey

The screw in the picture is the one that tightens the bung in the steerer. The thinner screw then fixes the head cap down by screwing into the first screw

ashleey

With internal cabling, use the full length housing to thread the cable through the frame. After that you only use the housing for external exposed cable runs. Thus from shifter to frame around head tube and from rear of frame to brake or derailleur. The housing should come with 'end plugs' that effectively create a seal where the housing goes into the frame. Obviously you need to get all this in the right order! Cut the correct housing from shifter to frame first. Then use long housing lengths for threading. Then withdraw housing. Then cut finishing lengths.

ashleey

By the way you can buy stops. I use jag wire racer cables which come with all the end pieces you will need.

ashleey

By the way, the cable action works by tensioning against the housing. If you ran housing from shifter to brake you would have no force and reaction!

RonanCFD

ashleey wrote: »

The screw in the picture is the one that tightens the bung in the steerer. The thinner screw then fixes the head cap down by screwing into the first screw

Ah, OK - it must be a spare for M6 bolts as there was already a screw in the bung to tighten it into the steerer. Thanks, just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed a bit out!

Re: the cabling, I just assumed last night that it would work the way you described, but found that my end caps just got pulled into the frame! There doesn't seem to be any 'ledge' inside the fittings on the top tube for an end cap to butt up against, just a smooth transition into what looks like another tube inside the top tube.

Thanks,
Neil

Mefistofelino

Its probably not a headset part - I think it may be a front calliper nut. Certain frame makes have deeper (front-to-back) than normal fork crowns and the standard brake nut that comes with the calliper may not be long enough to reach the calliper bolt. For that reason, you may be supplied with a longer sunken brake nut (I was supplied one with my frame - wasn't a Storck, though).

RonanCFD

That makes sense - the fork is very deep front to back and when I attached the calliper with the original part I was a bit worried that the nut didn't take many turns. Thank you!

ashleey

Good luck with the build. It's surprisingly good fun. You will have to unwrap the bar tape and redo though to get your cabling right. Also looks like you need to buy some cable ends

RonanCFD

I made a start on the gear cabling at lunchtime, and it turns out that the existing housings are too short so I'll have to redo everything anyway. I've just ordered new cabling, another wait but at least I found something in stock...

That housing in the photo did have a cap on - it disappeared into the top tube! From my digging around this morning, it looks like I just run a single long housing right through the top tube.

Build has been good fun so far - cutting the steerer down tested my nerves a bit, but turned out to be straightforward. Really just the cabling to do now. Have also discovered that Storck forks are not really designed to take 25mm tyres - the clearance is pretty minimal!

Thanks for help & advice

ashleey

RonanCFD wrote: »

I made a start on the gear cabling at lunchtime, and it turns out that the existing housings are too short so I'll have to redo everything anyway. I've just ordered new cabling, another wait but at least I found something in stock...

That housing in the photo did have a cap on - it disappeared into the top tube! From my digging around this morning, it looks like I just run a single long housing right through the top tube.

Build has been good fun so far - cutting the steerer down tested my nerves a bit, but turned out to be straightforward. Really just the cabling to do now. Have also discovered that Storck forks are not really designed to take 25mm tyres - the clearance is pretty minimal!

Thanks for help & advice

There should be rubber grommets in the frame to slot the housing in as when I did my Focus, I didn't run the housing all the way through?

clog

The Brake cable is a straight run through on that bike (built one up for a friend last year). There is a tube within the toptube for the housing and it is curved so there is no option for a straight exposed cable run inside it.

RonanCFD

Thanks, that clears that one up. Seeing as you've build one up, can I ask you something else? For the headset, do you remember whether you put the red plastic ring above or below the head tube? At the moment I've got it below, so you can actually see it in the gap between fork & head tube, but I'm not sure if this is right, and I'm also not sure if the crown race used for the fork end is the one with the larger or smaller bevel (used the larger one at the moment). Even looking at the instructions for this headset its clear as mud!

clog

I'm not sure that I used the same headset as that but I would say that the red plastic ring sits below the crown race on the fork to provide a bit of Clearance and protection to the lower bearings (cane creek 110 headsets do this).
Try and assemble it up with everything in place and see how you go

RonanCFD

Here's a photo of it in place:

Seems to look sensible in that position. Not so sure about the slight gap between washer & headtube which has me questioning whether the smaller crown race should be on the fork end, but the steering feels smooth & solid so hopefully I've got everything in the right place!

clog

the ring looks in the right position but can you flip it over so that it dishes up to cover gap.
The gap looks normal and if it works and feels ok then job done. Pack in some grease on final assembly to keep things smooth

RonanCFD

Thanks, I'll do as you suggest. Thanks for the help

Mefistofelino

The manual for your particular headset should be in here somewhere (hopefully)


http://www.acros.de/SERVICE/DOWNLOADS/MANUALS:::6_79_172.html

RonanCFD

Thanks, they don't make it easy but I think it confirms that the red washer does go on the fork end, but inverted from how I had it in the picture as clog said.