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What products to use
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07-05-2013 1:18pm#1I was just doing a bit of reading online to see which cleaning products would best suit my needs, the reviews for the three step system are generally good but I see a reoccuring theme:
Step 1 - very good
Step 2 - difficult to use, lots of effort etc.
Step 3 - very light wax, not the best, will only last a while
So, i'm looking for a better alternative. I don't have a dual action polisher so it will all be by hand. I'm an amature by the way, I just like cleaning the car and getting good results - I find it therapeudic and relaxing
I read good things about Autogleam Super Resin polish? (£10 for 1L)
Also, that Collonite 476 is an easier to use wax and far more durable? Bit pricey though... (£20 for 322g) so is there an alternative?
I'm thinking:
power hose car
wash car with this detergent that comes with the power washer with this brush
wash car with Meguires deep crystal step 1 and microfibre glove
rinse
Polish with the Autogleam Super Resin Polish
Wax with ....?.... (Collonite?)
how about these waxes: Simoniz Original Car wax (£8) or Meguiars Next Generation wax (£20) or meguires Gold Class Liquid Wax (£18)
Sorry for long post, just want to make sure I buy the right stuff 0
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challengemaster wrote: »Do not under any circumstances put a brush near a cars paintwork!!!
also, the brush is brand new and not evenused yet!
it's super soft though, very very fine bristles.
It seems to me that if you would wash with a microfibre noodle that you run the risk of trapping and draging a little piece of grit over the surface - whereas a stone wont get trapped in a brush as easily if it's kept clean - (I blast the brush with the powerhose before it goes back in the bucket)0 -
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sebastianlieken wrote: »also, the brush is brand new and not evenused yet! it's super soft though, very very fine bristles.
It seems to me that if you would wash with a microfibre noodle that you run the risk of trapping and draging a little piece of grit over the surface - whereas a stone wont get trapped in a brush as easily if it's kept clean - (I blast the brush with the powerhose before it goes back in the bucket)
No...no...no..no..no!!
There's a tiny risk using a microfibre, wheres a brush is whats going to cause the swirls in the first place.
Use it on the wheels maybe, don't put it anywhere near the bodywork0 -
sebastianlieken wrote: »okay so you reckon go with a sealant as opposed to a wax *quickly reads first post to see what difference is* - okay then - it's basically a synthetic wax and designed to be more durable I take it.
In generally sealants are far more durable than waxes, but there are durable waxes available also...for example the Collinite 476S that has been mentioned, and there are a few others!
Sealants also tend to work better on lighter coloured cars such as white, silver, and grey, as they are difficult to get the wet look on, and its better to go for a sharp look which is achieved usually by sealants. Waxes give a wet look and warm glow, so look better on deeper colours.
Choosing the protection on a car depends on a few factors, the main ones being cost, appearance, durability and easy of application.sebastianlieken wrote: »as for the other two steps you put up there,
"de-tar" - eh?
claying - I was considering (and still kinda am) this step, it seems like alot of people swear by it as an essential step - is it realllly worth it though... seems like it's gonna be time consuming aswell.
De-tar - eh?
Removing tar from the car....has to be done. Car should be contaminant free before doing any sort of polishing, or else you are polishing dirt into the paintwork and risking doing further damage.
Claying - yes it REALLY makes that much of a difference. No amount of washing and regular cleaning will remove certain amounts of dirt that gets bonded and embedded into your paintwork. The only way to remove this is by claying. A contaminate free, clayed car, will shine far more than an unclayed car.
Yes its time consuming - but if you want to keep your car looking its best, be prepared to give up quite a bit of time...if it was quick and easy, every car on the road would be spotless!
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Sealants also tend to work better on lighter coloured cars such as white, silver, and grey, as they are difficult to get the wet look on, and its better to go for a sharp look which is achieved usually by sealants. Waxes give a wet look and warm glow, so look better on deeper colours.
okay, so pulling together many of your suggestions, i've built myself a bit of a shopping basket below:-
(Both lists contain the same products, the amazon one is a tad more expensive but quantities are bigger) - i'll probably just end up going to halfords and picking up a few microfibres aswell though.
@Curran, it's a Black Golf - so.... still good with the sealant or is there a similarly prices wax I should get instead?
Halfords list:
Amazon list
All good or should I change one or two things?0 -
The Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner is probably a waste of time in this case, as you are claying the car anyways!
If you prepare the car well - fully de-tar it, and clay it well, re-wash the car, dry it, then a good job with the Super Resin Polish....and make sure to seal it in with the Extra Gloss Protection straight after buffing off the SRP then it will look great!
Secret to EGP is thin layers, so its easier to buff off and it bonds better too... give it two coats minimum!
Preparation of the car is 90% of the battle to getting it looking good - the last 10% is what products you use to protect it - in other words, any protection will look great as long as you've done the hard work before hand!
There would be other products that would look better on black, but they'll be more expensive, and wax tends to be less durable!0 -
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(Is this even the right thread for me to post this?!? Mod's please move this post if there's somewhere more appropriate - thanks)
all done, Spent the whole weekend at it. My arms are about to fall off.
Arms suffering from internal bleeding... is that a thing? I'm so shattered.
car is looking very crisp though indeed!-
Rinse with minimal water pressure (nice and easy with the new Karcher)
Snow Foam with Demon Wash (I see whay they call it 'snow foam' now :eek: also, this stuff smells like happiness! :pac: Marzipan or some kind of bubble gum from my childhood)
Rinse the snow foam off
Snow foam again + wash with microfibre noodle + bucket of hot Snow foam
Rinse until clean
Dry + park up in garage while I go refuel myself by raiding the fridge
De-tar with AutoGlym and a white cotton cloth - surprising how much more filth comes off! (this also smells awesome! I was expecting a white spirit or petrol smell - I'd wear this as a cologne if it wouldn't likley peel my skin off! - also, it helped me find all the cuts I had on my hands - just in case I wanted to know where they all were)
Snow foam AGAIN + wash with microfibre noodle + bucket of hot Snow foam
Rinse until clean
Clay with Meguiars Quick Clay kit. I thought this was difficult enough. I barely applied any pressure to the clay so that it would just kind of *hydroplane* but it was still tough going, lots of contamination removed on the lower half of the sides and on the front and back. I saw that it removed a fair bit of extra dirt and left the paint very very smooth - it's just alot of work and quite expensive
Snow foam
Rinse until clean
Dry
Polishing (ROUND 1) with AutoGlym Super Resin Polish and soft Microfibre applicator by hand. energetic application - ample pressure and speed. Arms are feeling it now.
Buffing with thick Cotton polishing cloth - buffs off fine, bit dusty but not bad.
Polishing (ROUND 2) with SRP and soft new Microfibre applicator (the other one was a bit dirty). energetic application - firm pressure and good speed. Arms are aching now.
Buffing with fresh thick Cotton polishing cloth. ouch...
Polishing (ROUND 3) with SRP and soft Microfibre applicator by hand. fairly energetic application - with lots of pauses in between - ample pressure and speed. Arms are now numb with pain.
Buffing with thick Cotton polishing cloth. I'm so sore now - but the car is so clean! it's working!!!
Sealant with AutoGlym Extra gloss Protection - It goes on easy-peasy, just wipe it on! AWESOME! Then just left it cure for 5 hours! (I can't remember what this smelled like
:pac:)
Sealant buffing off with Cotton Buffing Cloth - Holy Shit - this is excruciating! :eek: This stuff is designed to be durable and it freekin shows! Fair amount of vigorous effort and pressure to buff back to a lusterous shine!
And Breathe....
Then was interior shampooing With AutoGlyms aptly named "Interior Shampoo" - This stuff is MEGA! I can't recommend it enough! All those stains and grime pathes on light upholstery like on the ceiling, around sun visors, on the A-Pillar, Seats.... all are now Spotless! - and the stuff smells great! like old spice :pac:
Then was interior polishing of the dashboard and centre console etc.
Then Windows were cleaned inside and out with screen wipes (for computer screens etc.) And then treated inside and out with Clear-Vue (I did inside aswell because it does a seriously good job of cleaning windows) Clear-vue has a very strong alcoholy smell - I may have inhaled some of it in a feeble effort to dull the pain in my arms and shoulders.
Then the bumpers and tires were dressed with Turtle wax Gel, Amazing results! this is also one of my favorite products fromt he weekend! so so so simple to apply and leaves a gorgeous lusterous sheen! I even did the engine cover aswell!
Just when i'm just finished and delighted with all results, I go to start the car and .... nothing. just a feeble attempt of the starter motor :rolleyes:
Battery Dead lol. Playing too much radio! :pac:
In all honesty, I'm glad I got that big cleaning process out of my system - It was good fun aswell, But I don't think i'll be doing a clean to quite that extent again any time soon. Took far too much time and way to much physical effort!0 -
sebastianlieken wrote: »Sealant with AutoGlym Extra gloss Protection - It goes on easy-peasy, just wipe it on! AWESOME! Then just left it cure for 5 hours! (I can't remember what this smelled like:pac:)
Sealant buffing off with Cotton Buffing Cloth - Holy **** - this is excruciating! :eek: This stuff is designed to be durable and it freekin shows! Fair amount of vigorous effort and pressure to buff back to a lusterous shine!
There's your problem with the EGP, you're only supposed to leave it for about 1 hour.... no wonder it was so difficult to buff 0 -
challengemaster wrote: »There's your problem with the EGP, you're only supposed to leave it for about 1 hour.... no wonder it was so difficult to buff
I was reading lots of instructions, recommendations etc online; the bottle says allow to cure for 30mins- 1hr. The AutoGlym spokesperson on Youtube along with verious other sources in other forums say the longer you leave it to cure, the better.
Ah well it's done now and there should be one bad-ass barrier protecting my paint for a while.
It's possible that my arms were just so knackerd that it felt like I was putting in alot of effort - when really I wasn't even applying enough pressure to smear a window with an oily rag :pac:0 -
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