Removing rusty nuts/bolts

Muckit

What's the handiest gas setup to have handy for heating up seized bolt heads/nuts? I don't want it for cutting, just something to heat before trying to loosen with breaker bar or impact socket.

Thanks

john p mc g

oxy actylene id say would be handiest propane on its own would be too slow if big bolts

enricoh

i just use cutting gas - oxygen n propane, gets the nuts red if u want. u can get a little handheld can of butane/propane out of any coop, might do if u've only a couple to get off?

pakalasa

You can get a small gas bottle of butane for small jobs. Very handy. We had one here where I work a while back.

sh1tstirrer

pakalasa wrote: »

You can get a small gas bottle of butane for small jobs. Very handy. We had one here where I work a while back.

I use one of them and candle wax for seized nuts and bearings.

CJhaughey

I find the MAPP gas best, its a lot hotter than Butane and is almost the same price.
Rothenberger Superfire is the best torch unit but there are cheaper ones available.
Its very convenient in the small bottles much easier than an Oxy/propane set.

pakalasa

The shock from a belt of a lump hammer, while the lever bar is forced can help too. The shock transmits down to the nut.

Muckit

I've the bigger version of this with 601ml can. Butane/Prop mix. It doesn't really get bolts red hot. I read CJ Haughty that MAPP gas is what I need alright. Will this screw onto torch I have or is it a totally different system? Thanks

satstheway

You can get an aerosol which freezes the offending nut breaking the bond he same as heat never tried it though.

theaceofspies

Had same problem. Spray the blazes out of the piece with WD40. Come back a day later and give it a light spraying with WD40. Wait 10 minutes and tap slowly but firmly with a lump hammer (nail hammer is no good in this instance). It will be a tough one if if doesn't free using this method. Have freed up a nut and bolt that were outside in the elements since the mid 70's with this method.

munkus

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

I use one of them and candle wax for seized nuts and bearings.

What's the story with the wax?

CJhaughey

Muckit wrote: »

I've the bigger version of this with 601ml can. Butane/Prop mix. It doesn't really get bolts red hot. I read CJ Haughty that MAPP gas is what I need alright. Will this screw onto torch I have or is it a totally different system? Thanks

I have the model before this one, superfire 2
The torch and bottle is different to the one you have.

http://www.rothenberger.com/products/rothenberger/bondingsoldering-welding/super-fire-3/?L=1

Damo810

We've an old roller that has the big bolt on the side stuck in. Bolt must be there 10 years although the roller is over 30. Anyways, the bolts all mashed up, it's been hammered and battered trying to get it off, would one of those canisters help get it off? Or would it be too heavy of metal?

Suckler

I have one of these, mighty job. works slowly to get the but going after that you can use ordinary spanners.

http://www.jebbtools.ie/garage-equipment-ireland/mechanics-specialists-tools/torque-multiplier

pakalasa

Torque multiplier of 68:1. You could get serious torque with that.

Muckit

Would that yoke not just shear off bolts and leave ya with a bigger problem!!??

Suckler

Muckit wrote: »

Would that yoke not just shear off bolts and leave ya with a bigger problem!!??

Never had that problem with it, doesn't employ a sudden load on the nut. The gear mechanism reduces the number of turns down from the handle so it turns at a small fraction of a revolution compared to the revolutions of the handle.
I took nuts of an old lely acrobat hay turner that was sat idle for 30 odd years no problem. Took nuts of an old binder as well that was sat in the ditch for longer than that again!

pakalasa

Smaller nuts, it would anyway. But larger nuts like on lorry wheels, it's supposed to be a great job.
I find the best way to open nuts is the angle grinder.:D Cursing, skinned knuckles and broken sockets have thought me that.

Suckler, where did you get yours? Handy thing to have.

wildefalcon

If you can get at it handy you could try welding a bar or something to the head, the heat from the welder burns the rust and it also gives you something to put a scaffold pipe onto - having used plusgas or penetrating oil on it for a day or two.

sh1tstirrer

munkus wrote: »

What's the story with the wax?

I saw it on YouTube a few years ago. Melt the wax onto the heated nut and it will work its way through the threads to free the nut.

countryjimbo

Suckler wrote: »

I have one of these, mighty job. works slowly to get the but going after that you can use ordinary spanners.

http://www.jebbtools.ie/garage-equipment-ireland/mechanics-specialists-tools/torque-multiplier

I have one of these, find it great. Used it on tractor wheel nuts and trailer nuts, never sheared any.

Had to take off a trailer stand last year as it was catching the ground, the nut wasn't threaded right and nothing else could move it. The torque multiplier took it off, took a while as it didn't loosen like a normal nut but it worked!

Muckit

Some very good info lads-thanks! Ya think you've heard and seen it all and there's always a lad that'I be able to teach you a thing or two

Nothing more frustrating than a stubborn nut bolt or roll pin stopping you from doing a job! :mad:

As sure as you have a machine, you are going to have a breakdown, not so bad once it's just the machine!! :P:D

CJhaughey

A good tip is to get a tube or tin of copper grease, when you are fitting any bolt or nut give it a wipe of grease and it won't be so hard to get off next time.
You don't need to plaster it just a little on the threads and it will make a world of difference.

Muckit

CJhaughey wrote: »

A good tip is to get a tube or tin of copper grease, when you are fitting any bolt or nut give it a wipe of grease and it won't be so hard to get off next time.
You don't need to plaster it just a little on the threads and it will make a world of difference.

+1 on the copper grease. Bought a small tin of it last year after hearing about the wonders of it. Even when the grease dries up, it leaves a coating of copper that stops bits from seizing together. Top link got a bit there a few days ago, amazing how free it left it. And it's less messy if like what you say, you just use a little dab of it.

satstheway

Used to work on a fishfarm. Saltwater would corrode nuts unto bolts in a few months. Copper grease was always used on anyting that had to be moved again. I also live beside the sea so if I buy something new eg a quad or a sprayer I take of main bolts and use copper grease and spray everything metal eg the engine with clear waxoil. Its great stuff. A nut or bolt from the 70s here beside saltwater would be long gone.

Farmer

As well as all of the above, a nut splitter can be an option in confined places

What you use really all depends on how many there are, size, whether they're studs or bolts (torque multiplier will shear badly stuck ones) etc.

Try and use a tight six sided socket if possible. I was doing a bunch of worn bolts last year and, with access to a lathe, took a mm off the end of the socket (where it is beveled ) so that it would grip the bolts right to the bottom of the head. Sometimes, every little counts