Cost of slatted tank per bay?

dungfly

I am building a 4 bay slatted tank within an existing building. Any idea of cost per bay these days? Accommodation for 14 cubicles with a moving barrier. Using existing walls & roof. So just interested in the tank cost?

Massey10

dungfly wrote: »

I am building a 4 bay slatted tank within an existing building. Any idea of cost per bay these days? Accommodation for 14 cubicles with a moving barrier. Using existing walls & roof. So just interested in the tank cost?

i put in 67'x12x9 last year about 13k plus vat plus digging.

Juniorhurler

73 x 12'6 x 8 going in here at the moment. Will cost 13k as well with slats on. That included digging and the man is not vat registered so a bit of vat to come back on materials from that.

weekendfarmer

will be shot but .... I converted a long hayshed years ago. 4" block on flat and plastered it

laid approx 200 blocks each night after work and got a proper plasterer to plaster it

cheap job at the time, was just after getting the place and was skint ... hasn't leaked and its up about 15 years at this stage

sh1tstirrer

weekendfarmer wrote: »

will be shot but .... I converted a long hayshed years ago. 4" block on flat and plastered it

laid approx 200 blocks each night after work and got a proper plasterer to plaster it

cheap job at the time, was just after getting the place and was skint ... hasn't leaked and its up about 15 years at this stage

how deep is the tank? If it is over 5 foot deep it was built with one block on edge and one block flat. That way you have a 12" wide wall.

td5man

dungfly wrote: »

I am building a 4 bay slatted tank within an existing building. Any idea of cost per bay these days? Accommodation for 14 cubicles with a moving barrier. Using existing walls & roof. So just interested in the tank cost?

AFAIK €250-300 a foot tank and slats not sure if that includes vat

weekendfarmer

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

how deep is the tank? If it is over 5 foot deep it was built with one block on edge and one block flat. That way you have a 12" wide wall.

8ft .... have 3 high on edge , then i cased a 10" wide, 12" high reinforced wall on top of that, finished off with blocks on flat. It was a long baby so I split the tank
in the middle .... maybe overkill, It was a lot of work at the time ...

The thing to watch with converting existing sheds is that the slats
can end up starting out a lot from the back walls, not a problem if you make them into the creep area. One mistake i made was leaving the creep too flat.
Am going fixing that this year though as getting to old for this forking

Farmer Pudsey

weekendfarmer wrote: »

will be shot but .... I converted a long hayshed years ago. 4" block on flat and plastered it

laid approx 200 blocks each night after work and got a proper plasterer to plaster it

cheap job at the time, was just after getting the place and was skint ... hasn't leaked and its up about 15 years at this stage

I have heard of more than one tank build with block that has had no issue's. Believe it or not in most cases it is water leaking that is an issue rather than slurry going out. If there is no water coming in then the slurry will seal the sides of the tank in a few years. This is what happens in England and Scotland where they build Lagoons without liners abeit in a much dryer climate.

If water leaks in it the leakage point will get larger over time ergo more water and over time slurry will get out. However if the other way around slurry will actually seal the hole and the side of the walls.

The main reason for the agri specs is to prevent structural faults in tank. Often if a tank is in a dry are where weight bearing against walls will be minimal the actual structural strenght of a tank would not need to be of the agri specifications. However if not laying the blocks yourself there is little or no savings between Block or mass concerete. That is why on sidewall very few farmers use Block unless they can lay them themselves.

reilig

The other side of it is that I have seen a block tank leak. It was an overground 6ft tank and the farmer put a pit of silage up against the tank wall. The whole pit of silage was contaminated with slurry effluent which seeped through the wall. He had to get a digger to empty the tank. That was 10 years ago. The tank is still being used, it's still seeping a little bit, but it runs off into another tank lower than it. It hasn't sealed itself yet - how long should it take?

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

I have heard of more than one tank build with block that has had no issue's. Believe it or not in most cases it is water leaking that is an issue rather than slurry going out. If there is no water coming in then the slurry will seal the sides of the tank in a few years. This is what happens in England and Scotland where they build Lagoons without liners abeit in a much dryer climate.

If water leaks in it the leakage point will get larger over time ergo more water and over time slurry will get out. However if the other way around slurry will actually seal the hole and the side of the walls.

The main reason for the agri specs is to prevent structural faults in tank. Often if a tank is in a dry are where weight bearing against walls will be minimal the actual structural strenght of a tank would not need to be of the agri specifications. However if not laying the blocks yourself there is little or no savings between Block or mass concerete. That is why on sidewall very few farmers use Block unless they can lay them themselves.

sh1tstirrer

reilig wrote: »

The other side of it is that I have seen a block tank leak. It was an overground 6ft tank and the farmer put a pit of silage up against the tank wall. The whole pit of silage was contaminated with slurry effluent which seeped through the wall. He had to get a digger to empty the tank. That was 10 years ago. The tank is still being used, it's still seeping a little bit, but it runs off into another tank lower than it. It hasn't sealed itself yet - how long should it take?

An overground block tank, that's asking for trouble. There will be no reinforcing unlilke the underground tank.

Farmer Pudsey

reilig wrote: »

The other side of it is that I have seen a block tank leak. It was an overground 6ft tank and the farmer put a pit of silage up against the tank wall. The whole pit of silage was contaminated with slurry effluent which seeped through the wall. He had to get a digger to empty the tank. That was 10 years ago. The tank is still being used, it's still seeping a little bit, but it runs off into another tank lower than it. It hasn't sealed itself yet - how long should it take?

I wonder was it the silage or rain water that broke the barrier from outside. Also as over ground it would be suspectible to frost damage. Under fround this would not be an issue. I be slow allowing silage effluent into them also.

lakill Farm

weekendfarmer wrote: »

8ft .... have 3 high on edge , then i cased a 10" wide, 12" high reinforced wall on top of that, finished off with blocks on flat. It was a long baby so I split the tank
in the middle .... maybe overkill, It was a lot of work at the time ...

The thing to watch with converting existing sheds is that the slats
can end up starting out a lot from the back walls, not a problem if you make them into the creep area. One mistake i made was leaving the creep too flat.
Am going fixing that this year though as getting to old for this forking

Explain that to me again :rolleyes: please.

what way are the blocks?

reilig

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

I wonder was it the silage or rain water that broke the barrier from outside. Also as over ground it would be suspectible to frost damage. Under fround this would not be an issue. I be slow allowing silage effluent into them also.

Slurry effluent, not silage effluent.

Frost would penetrate the top rows of a block tank underground also. It is possible that the effluent from the silage pit penetrated from outside. It's even more possible that the builder skimped on the mortar, failed to waterproof the plaster, or didn't apply enough coats or thick enough of coats of plaster - This could happen with any block tank and highlights the importance of quality control.

weekendfarmer

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weekendfarmer

looked better in real life i promise

weekendfarmer

reilig wrote: »

Slurry effluent, not silage effluent.

Frost would penetrate the top rows of a block tank underground also. It is possible that the effluent from the silage pit penetrated from outside. It's even more possible that the builder skimped on the mortar, failed to waterproof the plaster, or didn't apply enough coats or thick enough of coats of plaster - This could happen with any block tank and highlights the importance of quality control.

frost dosen't penetrate .... water expands when below -1

how do you water proof plaster???????

pakalasa

From S. 123 Departments spec on re-inforced tanks.

1.1 Blockwork Tanks and Channels

Tanks, and channels,not more than 1.2m in depth, may be constructed with 225mm solid concreteblocks. Any such block wall longer than10m shall incorporate [at max. 10m intervals] a 450 x 450mm pillar extended onthe outer face of the wall. Walls shallbe plastered both sides to a thickness of 12mm. [3:1 washed sand/cement withplasticiser incorporated]. No tank orchannel in contact with silage effluent shall be constructed of blockwork. All blockwork tanks and channels shall becoated on the inside with a proprietary acid resistant bitumastic coating.

Farmer Pudsey

reilig wrote: »

Slurry effluent, not silage effluent.

Frost would penetrate the top rows of a block tank underground also. It is possible that the effluent from the silage pit penetrated from outside. It's even more possible that the builder skimped on the mortar, failed to waterproof the plaster, or didn't apply enough coats or thick enough of coats of plaster - This could happen with any block tank and highlights the importance of quality control.

The silage was up against the wall of the tank. speck for silage walls is quite high for two issue one is silage effluent in the silage itself which could stick to wall and damage plaster and morter, second he could have damaged joints while compacting silage.

Only in years where we hot very hard frost 2009/10 and 2010/2011 would we have an issue with it penetrating below ground. Even then slats are above tank and there is usually a concrete apron in front over tank and usually a lie back on the shed. An overground block tank is a total different kettle of fish. It is also suspectible to rain damage and would be always damp because of this

dungfly

Any ideas regards a moving barrier and slat mats in a barn conversion?

weekendfarmer

http://www.odonovaneng.ie/cattle/cow-pow-moving-silage-feed-rail/

Have a look ...

reilig

weekendfarmer wrote: »

frost dosen't penetrate .... water expands when below -1

how do you water proof plaster???????

Yes, and if the water freezes, it expands and causes cracks and the frost is said to have penetrated.

Plaster can be water proofed by adding a waterproofer or plasticiser to the mix when mixing the mortar.

reilig

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

The silage was up against the wall of the tank. speck for silage walls is quite high for two issue one is silage effluent in the silage itself which could stick to wall and damage plaster and morter, second he could have damaged joints while compacting silage.

Only in years where we hot very hard frost 2009/10 and 2010/2011 would we have an issue with it penetrating below ground. Even then slats are above tank and there is usually a concrete apron in front over tank and usually a lie back on the shed. An overground block tank is a total different kettle of fish. It is also suspectible to rain damage and would be always damp because of this

I'm not saying that it wasn't the silage. He doesn't think it was as he always ran a cover between the walls and the silage, but the slurry pushed through the cover and contaminated the pit. In simple terms, he would have had a much more reliable job and a longer life job if he had poured his tank.

It's that simple. Savings made by building a block tank over a poured tank are negated by the risk and longevity of the tank. It's certainly something that no engineer would recommend!

weekendfarmer

Plasticizer makes plaster more workable and easier to render .... it does not have any water proofing characteristics

weekendfarmer

reilig wrote: »

I'm not saying that it wasn't the silage. He doesn't think it was as he always ran a cover between the walls and the silage, but the slurry pushed through the cover and contaminated the pit. In simple terms, he would have had a much more reliable job and a longer life job if he had poured his tank.

It's that simple. Savings made by building a block tank over a poured tank are negated by the risk and longevity of the tank. It's certainly something that no engineer would recommend!

An engineers objective is to cover his own @ss 100% .... not to save you money.

weekendfarmer

To some up in case lads are converting sheds.

Listen to people like pakalasa who quotes and referenec Departments specs

Massey10

weekendfarmer wrote: »

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Why not a foundation block 12" wide . Ive seen them used in a good few tanks.

reilig

weekendfarmer wrote: »

To some up in case lads are converting sheds.

Listen to people like pakalasa who quotes and referenec Departments specs

Water proofer for mortar

http://www.watco.ie/sbr-waterproof-additive.html

SBR Waterproof Additive
Improves the adhesion, strength, water resistance and durability of cement mortars

Plasticiser as opposed to Plasticizer

One of the most popular brands in the country Durabond. Here's the data sheet:

http://www.mcl.ie/datasheets/waterproofer_plasticiser.htm

The first lines say:

Durabond Waterproofer and Plasticiser is a concentrated admixture for cement mixes to reduce water permeability and entrain air. It can be used in concrete, renders and mortar to reduce the passage of moisture and suction. It is especially useful in rendering and dry dashing where it is important to prevent too much suction in backing coats.

I would appreciate it if you would change your post which says that I do not know what I'm talking about. In fact you even quoted me wrong when you tried to quote me.

reilig

weekendfarmer wrote: »

An engineers objective is to cover his own @ss 100% .... not to save you money.

So you think that the Department Specs are not approved by an engineer?

An engineer's objective is to design or approve a structure which has been proven to witstand any forces placed on it. Block tanks have not been proven to do this, therefore an engineer won't approve it.

You could save money by having a clay lined tank which may or may not cause pollution.

Farmer Pudsey

There are waterproofers for Plaster. These are not plasticisers. There are also water proofers that you apply with a brush. However these are designed to allow water to run off side of wall. Very few prevent dampness where water is in contact all the time with plaster. This would be the case if he lined the plaster with plastic before putting silage aginst it. If silage was bad due to slurry it is unlikly that it came through plastic. He may have used an old silage cover in which case water going down between wall and plastic would also be an issue.

In the case of an overhead tank you would have to plaster inside and outside. Again like laying blocks unless you do it your self it would negate cost comparrison between mass concrete and block wall. You would also need to put on at least one sctrach and maybe two scratch coats and then a plaster finish coat and ideally sponge all. The finiancal saving of an overhead block tank would be minimal as opposed to an underground one and a lot more risky due to weather damage.

The savings are if you can do the labour self. My own choice woul always be a mass concrete wall as I would not have the time or skill level to lay blocks.

reilig

I have some experience with paint on PVA waterproofers, but they wouldn't have industrial strength. The idea of a plasticiser or waterproofer mixed with mortar is to prevent the mortar/plaster from soaking water into it. It makes plaster easy to work with by not allowing the moisture in the plaster to be soaked into dry block work - This stops it from drying too soon and makes it easier to work with, as well as allowing you to work with it for longer. It reduces the permiability of the plaster or mortar when it is first laid or when it is dry and therefore acts as a waterproofer preventing for example, the blocks on a house wall from soaking rain through the outside plaster of a house. It ultimately helps to negate dampness in houses as well as frost damage to the plaster on houses and would have a similar impact if it was used in the mortar used to build blocks in a tank or in the plaster used to plaster the blocks or a tank.

Wall was plastered inside and out. Plastic on the sides was new.
In speaking to him over the weekend, his opinion was that the dry silage put into the pit when it happened absorbed the moisture from the tank through the blocks, plaster and all. It was possible that the plastic lining got torn during the making of the pit. Weather was not a factor in the damage as all of the area was roofed.

I would be of the same opinion to yourself towards the block tanks. When you count the time it would take to build the thousands of blocks required, a poured wall could work out even cheaper.

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

There are waterproofers for Plaster. These are not plasticisers. There are also water proofers that you apply with a brush. However these are designed to allow water to run off side of wall. Very few prevent dampness where water is in contact all the time with plaster. This would be the case if he lined the plaster with plastic before putting silage aginst it. If silage was bad due to slurry it is unlikly that it came through plastic. He may have used an old silage cover in which case water going down between wall and plastic would also be an issue.

In the case of an overhead tank you would have to plaster inside and outside. Again like laying blocks unless you do it your self it would negate cost comparrison between mass concrete and block wall. You would also need to put on at least one sctrach and maybe two scratch coats and then a plaster finish coat and ideally sponge all. The finiancal saving of an overhead block tank would be minimal as opposed to an underground one and a lot more risky due to weather damage.

The savings are if you can do the labour self. My own choice woul always be a mass concrete wall as I would not have the time or skill level to lay blocks.

Farmer Pudsey

reilig wrote: »

So you think that the Department Specs are not approved by an engineer?

An engineer's objective is to design or approve a structure which has been proven to witstand any forces placed on it. Block tanks have not been proven to do this, therefore an engineer won't approve it.

You could save money by having a clay lined tank which may or may not cause pollution.

An engineer objective in specing anything is not to lose his professional indemnity insurance for his work. I was once told that if he has two claims that he cannot get insurance again and has to work under supervision i.e. he cannot work as a sole trader.

So when he specs anything he calculateswhat strenght it needs to be. When he has arrived at this spec he adds 50% to it and then double the whole [EMAIL="f@@King"]f@@King[/EMAIL] thing to be sure to be sure.:D:D

On dept of agri specs a lot is to do with the dept trying to allow for what happens on the ground such as contractors adding water etc

reilig

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

An engineer objective in specing anything is not to lose his professional indemnity insurance for his work. I was once told that if he has two claims that he cannot get insurance again and has to work under supervision i.e. he cannot work as a sole trader.

Exactly.

So as i said, he won't spec or approve something which has not been proven to witstand the forces placed on it.

God forbid he has a claim or 2 and loses his professional indemnity :eek:

But in human terms, what happens 10 years after a tank is build, if a wall fails, a tank collapses and someone is killed. You wouldn't mind losing a few cattle, but you can't put a price on human life.

Engineers plan for the future in their design. As farmers, our only focus is very often on saving money, never thinking too much about the future.

Block walls are designed for gravity forces, ie downward forces. The spec for a block wall to support inward or outward forces is much greater than any spec spoken about in this thread and would not be finincially viable in comparison to a poured and reinforced tank.

Manoffeeling

Do you drill out the blocks to put in the steel? Or do you use cavity blocks and meander the steel down through the cavities?

pakalasa

Guys, there is no comparison in the strength of a block built wall and a poured one. One basic difference is there is no re-bar in the block wall. Concrete is strong in compression, but very weak in tension. That is why the re-bar is needed.
Think of the consequences of a failed tank wall in a slatted shed. Safety, fatalities and all that aside, how do you go about repairing something like that. Madness. If you want to skimp on cost, put up cheap sheeting. You can easily replace that after a few years, when it rusts.
A properly poured wall, done right, will last 50 years. We have side walls at home on a silage pit that were poured in '86 and they are still perfect.

Manoffeeling

pakalasa wrote: »

Guys, there is no comparison in the strength of a block built wall and a poured one. One basic difference is there is no re-bar in the block wall. Concrete is strong in compression, but very weak in tension. That is why the re-bar is needed.
Think of the consequences of a failed tank wall in a slatted shed. Safety, fatalities and all that aside, how do you go about repairing something like that. Madness. If you want to skimp on cost, put up cheap sheeting. You can easily replace that after a few years, when it rusts.
A properly poured wall, done right, will last 50 years. We have side walls at home on a silage pit that were poured in '86 and they are still perfect.

+1

Starting to build at the end of the year. The cheap job is the dear job.

weekendfarmer

No brainer .... if you can afford to pour / and steel it ....way better job.

I think we all agree on that.

td5man

weekendfarmer wrote: »

No brainer .... if you can afford to pour / and steel it ....way better job.

I think we all agree on that.

poured walls arent much dearer

weekendfarmer

If you can do the labour yourself there is a big difference ...

of course depends on size of tank !!!

Manoffeeling

weekendfarmer wrote: »

If you can do the labour yourself there is a big difference ...

of course depends on size of tank !!!

Difference in money spent or quality of work :rolleyes:

weekendfarmer

deep .... no pun intended

Massey10

pakalasa wrote: »

Guys, there is no comparison in the strength of a block built wall and a poured one. One basic difference is there is no re-bar in the block wall. Concrete is strong in compression, but very weak in tension. That is why the re-bar is needed.
Think of the consequences of a failed tank wall in a slatted shed. Safety, fatalities and all that aside, how do you go about repairing something like that. Madness. If you want to skimp on cost, put up cheap sheeting. You can easily replace that after a few years, when it rusts.
A properly poured wall, done right, will last 50 years. We have side walls at home on a silage pit that were poured in '86 and they are still perfect.

If its a short tank build with a 12" block and well drained around it i think its pretty safe .There are block build retaining walls build in loads of places outside of farm yards that i would consider to more of a danger

sh1tstirrer

I built a block cavity wall on a cubical shed in the 90's. I mixed the mortar at 3/1
instead of the recommended 7/1 and used plasticiser. A few years ago I decided to knock part of it with a sledge, it only bounced off it. Then I got a kango hammer and it took a fair pounding to knock it. If a slurry tank was built with solid block with mortar and plaster mixed at 3/1 and plasticiser used, I reckon you would have a very solid wall. If the wall was 12" thick 1 block on edge and 1 flat it would be as solid as a concrete wall any day. Of course you can only save money with it if you can build it yourself. My neighbour built a block wall tank for a 4 bay slatted shed in the early 80's and it's still standing and in use.

larrymiller

lads what kinda money would you be talking for a slatted house for maybe 50-100 cattle (i know impossible to say but just a rough guess) , always loved the idea of having one, is their grants still available?

sh1tstirrer

larrymiller wrote: »

lads what kinda money would you be talking for a slatted house for maybe 50-100 cattle (i know impossible to say but just a rough guess) , always loved the idea of having one, is their grants still available?

No grants unless you are an organic farmer.

1chippy

There is very little in the costs of poured compared to block built. is the couple of quid difference between piece of mind and what you can save in the overall cost not be neglible.
Blockwork is not just a simple case of putting one block on top of another like a lot of people seem to think. A slight bow in the wall at any point will make it weaker, the wrong mix of cement, too much fairy liquid instead of mortiser and i could go on.
There are actually a few cases whereby blocks are starting to crumble in houses by a certain big name block supplier. The houses look grand but once the plaster is removed, you can nearly push your hand through the blocks, these are only up 15 years or so. its being kept underwraps at the moment but when it does hit the news there will be massive claims going in.
wouldnt they be just super to use in a slatted tank. The couple of hundred per bay you saved would be well used in the repair job. The department specs are there because currently they are the right way to do things any other way is a gamble unless your a fully qualified engineer with some new product and a good insurance policy.

Farmer Pudsey

larrymiller wrote: »

lads what kinda money would you be talking for a slatted house for maybe 50-100 cattle (i know impossible to say but just a rough guess) , always loved the idea of having one, is their grants still available?

There is no grants available however prices are very compeditive. 50-100 cattle is a big difference and it depends on what age/weight/breed they are. One tank is cheaper than two and the deeper, wider and longer the tank the less per cubic metre volume it costs.

A 3/bay only cost about 25-30% more than a 2/bay. A 4/bay about 20% more than a 3/bay. A 6/bay cost about 25-30% more than a 4/bay. Using 16' slats as opposed to 12' will only add 10% extra to the cost.

You should be able to construct a 4 bay shed 8'deep tank and 16@ slats for about 25K depending on how many bells and whistles you want and less if able to do a lot of the work yourself.

larrymiller

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

There is no grants available however prices are very compeditive. 50-100 cattle is a big difference and it depends on what age/weight/breed they are. One tank is cheaper than two and the deeper, wider and longer the tank the less per cubic metre volume it costs.

A 3/bay only cost about 25-30% more than a 2/bay. A 4/bay about 20% more than a 3/bay. A 6/bay cost about 25-30% more than a 4/bay. Using 16' slats as opposed to 12' will only add 10% extra to the cost.

You should be able to construct a 4 bay shed 8'deep tank and 16@ slats for about 25K depending on how many bells and whistles you want and less if able to do a lot of the work yourself.

good reply thanks,

well system that were running is buying in about 40 calves each spring and finishing ourselves, 30 hereford, 6 bb and 6 aa (this year), never had any experiance with slats but i think it would be a good idea for the 40 i would be finishing each winter!

Conor556

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

No grants unless you are an organic farmer.

What grants are available to organic farmers?

Massey10

1chippy wrote: »

There is very little in the costs of poured compared to block built. is the couple of quid difference between piece of mind and what you can save in the overall cost not be neglible.
Blockwork is not just a simple case of putting one block on top of another like a lot of people seem to think. A slight bow in the wall at any point will make it weaker, the wrong mix of cement, too much fairy liquid instead of mortiser and i could go on.
There are actually a few cases whereby blocks are starting to crumble in houses by a certain big name block supplier. The houses look grand but once the plaster is removed, you can nearly push your hand through the blocks, these are only up 15 years or so. its being kept underwraps at the moment but when it does hit the news there will be massive claims going in.
wouldnt they be just super to use in a slatted tank. The couple of hundred per bay you saved would be well used in the repair job. The department specs are there because currently they are the right way to do things any other way is a gamble unless your a fully qualified engineer with some new product and a good insurance policy.

I have never done a block tank myself but i can see why a lad handy with blocks would . The labour for the tank will cost around 1000 per bay .Poured walls have also failed when not done right and drained right .I dont know any farmer who use the complete grant spec when not getting the grant.

Farmer Pudsey

Massey10 wrote: »

I have never done a block tank myself but i can see why a lad handy with blocks would . The labour for the tank will cost around 1000 per bay .Poured walls have also failed when not done right and drained right .I dont know any farmer who use the complete grant spec when not getting the grant.

TBH at present there is no saving in doing Block over mass concrete . I saw figures for a 3 bay tank with 14'6''slats coming in at 6600+vat. This was for a 12'' wall. Blocks alone would cost 2200 euro and about 800 for sand and cement. After that you would have to lay you self.

just do it

Juniorhurler wrote: »

73 x 12'6 x 8 going in here at the moment. Will cost 13k as well with slats on. That included digging and the man is not vat registered so a bit of vat to come back on materials from that.

That's a 4 bay right? Makes me shudder to think what I paid in '08 when getting the grant :eek:

What are you expecting the walls, shed and barriers etc to cost? Poured walls?