Reseed - power harrow

larthehar

I know people here are probably sick to death of reseeding questions, but I haven't see any info on this method;

- Spray
- power harrow once (2in deep)
- sow
- roll

Has anyone every done this? What were that results like?

I have seen a lot on the chain harrow method but I find the chain harrow doesn't bite enough as land down my way is quite dry with some fields high and north facing.

Cheers,

Larthehar

Muckit

Yes I have done this. The only thing I would be concerned with using powerharrow is docks.

You would want to have old ground fairly dock free before reseeding or the powerharrow will shred the old dock roots into small pieces and they'I grow like hell in new reseed

larthehar

Muckit wrote: »

Yes I have done this. The only thing I would be concerned with using powerharrow is docks.

You would want to have old ground fairly dock free before reseeding or the powerharrow will shred the old dock roots into small pieces and they'I grow like hell in new reseed

Very old ground.. not 1 dock in it.. grass is just very bad and needs a shake up! How did the grass turn out aside from the docks?

yellow50HX

Did it with a spike rotovator, 2 runs, 1 in each direction, spread the seed, chain harrow to cover and the roll. Ended up rolling in each direction as the bed was a bit too soft. Ended up well.

Robson99

Done it this way last May. Put in some barley with th grass seed and took a cut of silage of it in August. Turned out very well. Grazed with lambs over the winter

delaval

larthehar wrote: »

I know people here are probably sick to death of reseeding questions, but I haven't see any info on this method;

- Spray
- power harrow once (2in deep)
- sow
- roll

Has anyone every done this? What were that results like?

I have seen a lot on the chain harrow method but I find the chain harrow doesn't bite enough as land down my way is quite dry with some fields high and north facing.

Cheers,

Larthehar

i would suggest 2 runs of power harrow if old sod.
Whatever you do spray for weeds at 3 leaf stage post emergence, that will keep docks at bay.

Bactidiaryl

Have used this method quite a bit on dry ground very successfully. Can be quite a bit cheaper too as there is less machinery passes. If the grass is short enough one pass should do. If its still a bit wirey skinn it with mower.cut grass melts away pretty quick.

Muckit

larthehar wrote: »

Very old ground.. not 1 dock in it.. grass is just very bad and needs a shake up! How did the grass turn out aside from the docks?

Was v pleased with it. You need put out extra lime too to break down the trash. You'I have a bit with only one pass. But as suggested if it is grazed tight or cut tight before you power harrow it helps;)

muirsin

Hi
wondering approx how much to reseed 4 acres.Is it usually so much per acre or is it better to price by the hour to plough land level and power harrow.Roughly How much per hour are these jobs .
Thanks

ABlur

muirsin wrote: »

Hi
wondering approx how much to reseed 4 acres.Is it usually so much per acre or is it better to price by the hour to plough land level and power harrow.Roughly How much per hour are these jobs .
Thanks

I was quoted €100 per acre for discing and powerharrowing. Spread fertiliser and grass seed myself and land limed in Feb.

larthehar

muirsin wrote: »

Hi
wondering approx how much to reseed 4 acres.Is it usually so much per acre or is it better to price by the hour to plough land level and power harrow.Roughly How much per hour are these jobs .
Thanks

I would avoid ploughing unless you want to level to be honest.. 100 euro/ac wouldn't be far off...

Tipp Man

larthehar wrote: »

I know people here are probably sick to death of reseeding questions, but I haven't see any info on this method;

- Spray
- power harrow once (2in deep)
- sow
- roll

Has anyone every done this? What were that results like?

I have seen a lot on the chain harrow method but I find the chain harrow doesn't bite enough as land down my way is quite dry with some fields high and north facing.

Cheers,

Larthehar

Started using this method a few years ago and now i think it is the only method that we will every use to re-seed

We get a 1 pass corn drill (air) so powerharrow and drill in 1 go, flat roller and bob's your uncle. tried the ring roller on some of it a few years ago and just felt that the flat roller gave a better finish for grass seed

Farmer Pudsey

It will work spray when the spray starts to work graze tight with a big mob of cattle. You can put slurry on at this stage as well as fertilizer and granlime. Power harrow then spread seed roll and pick stones.

Even if the land had been limed recently I would spread a bag of granlime/acre as the decaying grass will acidify the ground and effect the young grass.

case885

Sorry for dragging up the thread but going doing a bit of reseeding myself and was thinking spray,-graze tight,-slurry,-spring harrow x2 or 3,- seed,- give the ground a ruffle to cover seed,- roll.

dharn

case885 wrote: »

Sorry for dragging up the thread but going doing a bit of reseeding myself and was thinking spray,-graze tight,-slurry,-spring harrow x2 or 3,- seed,- give the ground a ruffle to cover seed,- roll.

I have posed similar question no ones answering, all the grass experts must be on holidays

Figerty

Did exactly this a few years ago; Sprayed, powerharrowed down about 3-4 inches ( any deeper was blue mud)
Seeded, rolled, sprayed, manured about 1 bag to acre of 10-10-20
Added more manure later.
Should have sprayed for weed 'red shank' I think it's called.

Cutting silage of that field for 5 years.

Only think I should have done was run a land leveller lightly over it or added soil to hollows. Reluctant with so little soil

case885

Figerty wrote: »

Did exactly this a few years ago; Sprayed, powerharrowed down about 3-4 inches ( any deeper was blue mud)
Seeded, rolled, sprayed, manured about 1 bag to acre of 10-10-20
Added more manure later.
Should have sprayed for weed 'red shank' I think it's called.

Cutting silage of that field for 5 years.

Only think I should have done was run a land leveller lightly over it or added soil to hollows. Reluctant with so little soil

Yes i have a few hollows too and a few heaps of earth so its the best time to do it now only its time consuming drawing earth to it.

nashmach

When you say spring harrow, I presume you mean Triple K.

I would not be keen on one of those at all to help you make a seedbed to be honest. It will not do as even a job as the other methods mentioned above.

case885

https://www.google.ie/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=mnxp0bl_3nGVoM&tbnid=AzlEFeokgsIuyM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forum4farming.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D4785&ei=QSMMUtbOL4Ga7Qao6IAg&bvm=bv.50723672,d.ZGU&psig=AFQjCNE3G9E73M44E_CqWaXUq5qYuawfxA&ust=1376613563266106
Yes this type one have used it on ploughed ground and works perfect better than power harrow imo as it breaks it up better.

nashmach

case885 wrote: »

https://www.google.ie/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=mnxp0bl_3nGVoM&tbnid=AzlEFeokgsIuyM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forum4farming.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D4785&ei=QSMMUtbOL4Ga7Qao6IAg&bvm=bv.50723672,d.ZGU&psig=AFQjCNE3G9E73M44E_CqWaXUq5qYuawfxA&ust=1376613563266106
Yes this type one have used it on ploughed ground and works perfect better than power harrow imo as it breaks it up better.

I'm a fan too hence why I splashed out and am doing one up at present but wouldn't dream of using it on unploughed ground.

case885

nashmach wrote: »

I'm a fan too hence why I splashed out and am doing one up at present but wouldn't dream of using it on unploughed ground.

Personally i havent used it on unploughed ground but my father has and said it is great job. Ploughing softens ground and is costly so i think i will go with this.

freedominacup

If the ground doesn't need to be ploughed to deal with rutted or severely poached areas then spray, graze tight after 5-7 days, spread 2 tonne lime, 2 bags 10-10-20 and direct drill, no stone picking, no rolling, no tearing and dragging with levellers.

whelan1

hope to do 15 acres, putting in a drain at the bottom, only 1 area that is rough in it... cant really plough as some of it is rocky. so will i get someone to power harrow just the rough area?

Sami23

yellow50HX wrote: »

Did it with a spike rotovator, 2 runs, 1 in each direction, spread the seed, chain harrow to cover and the roll. Ended up rolling in each direction as the bed was a bit too soft. Ended up well.

Anyone ever roll before AND after spreading the grass seed. I did it last year as the soil was very soft and dusty, it worked out very well as it gave a firm bed for the seed and the grass emerged very evenly

yellow50HX

Sami23 wrote: »

Anyone ever roll before AND after spreading the grass seed. I did it last year as the soil was very soft and dusty, it worked out very well as it gave a firm bed for the seed and the grass emerged very evenly

i know a lad that would plough (reversible), then roll, spread the hayseed then roll again, always had good grass.

Figerty

case885 wrote: »

Yes i have a few hollows too and a few heaps of earth so its the best time to do it now only its time consuming drawing earth to it.

Should have have added the Power harrow had a heavy stone burier at the back. This was a great job as there was only 2 transport boxes of stone on the ground on a couple of acres.

agriman27

Anyone ever use an einbock tine harrow for the min till type reseed they follow contours or ground well and are more aggressive than people think. I'd say they are a good yolk

case885

agriman27 wrote: »

Anyone ever use an einbock tine harrow for the min till type reseed they follow contours or ground well and are more aggressive than people think. I'd say they are a good yolk

On grass or ploughed ground?

jersey101

Have a lad in here now discing with a 3m horsch harrow, cut silage off this two days ago its very dry ground but id say the two runs over it will do, its looking good so far

dharn

Check youtube for clips of them einbrock harrows, they seem to be used mostly on grass

agriman27

case885 wrote: »

On grass or ploughed ground?

Yeah I meant for using on ground that was sprayed off an ate bare. Then a few runs of einbock then seed and roll. I don't really know much never tried any min till methods but I think it could be worth a try instead of ploughing up hungry soil :pac:

freedominacup

Grass seeds we direct drilled after wholecrop last thurs (the 8th I think) just over ground this morning. Looks like a good stand.

Farfield

I have been seeding this way a fair bit lately without ploughing, but have not sprayed off old grass. Seems to work well.
If spraying off with roundup, when is it safe to let the dairy cows in for a final quick mop up of the grass??

just do it

Farfield wrote: »

I have been seeding this way a fair bit lately without ploughing, but have not sprayed off old grass. Seems to work well.
If spraying off with roundup, when is it safe to let the dairy cows in for a final quick mop up of the grass??

5 days is the recommended interval.

Farmer Pudsey

just do it wrote: »

5 days is the recommended interval.

watch the grass if you use biactive or put a activator in the spray you may be able to go in after 2-3 days at present.

just do it

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

watch the grass if you use biactive or put a activator in the spray you may be able to go in after 2-3 days at present.

What difference do you see in the grass? I'm looking at spraying Monday and looking at the current forecast it would suit better to knock for silage 4 days later rather than 5. I'll be spraying with biactive by the way.

razor8

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

It will work spray when the spray starts to work graze tight with a big mob of cattle. You can put slurry on at this stage as well as fertilizer and granlime. Power harrow then spread seed roll and pick stones.

Even if the land had been limed recently I would spread a bag of granlime/acre as the decaying grass will acidify the ground and effect the young grass.

when you say a bag of gran lime/acre are you talking about a 50kg bag?

Farmer Pudsey

just do it wrote: »

What difference do you see in the grass? I'm looking at spraying Monday and looking at the current forecast it would suit better to knock for silage 4 days later rather than 5. I'll be spraying with biactive by the way.

Tip of the grass will start to turn purple in spring you have to be careful as it be discoloured from frost/cold weather.

razor8 wrote: »

when you say a bag of gran lime/acre are you talking about a 50kg bag?

Yes a 50kg bag

leoch

i am going to sow a bit this week on an old grass bit ate down fairly bare with the heifers,it wont be sprayed off first and i will be getting a man with an aerator type thing and seeder on top it drops the seed down the spikes, didnt see it working but he s doing it a fair few years and i know men say its good...anyway i was just wondering about the lime situation as this field got lime back in spring 2 ton/acre so would i need to put on more now when seeding or should it be ok ?

freedominacup

leoch wrote: »

i am going to sow a bit this week on an old grass bit ate down fairly bare with the heifers,it wont be sprayed off first and i will be getting a man with an aerator type thing and seeder on top it drops the seed down the spikes, didnt see it working but he s doing it a fair few years and i know men say its good...anyway i was just wondering about the lime situation as this field got lime back in spring 2 ton/acre so would i need to put on more now when seeding or should it be ok ?

You have to spray it and it can be sprayed after sowing. Grass seeds I direct drilled last Thurs week 08/08 was up on Sat so window is fairly short post sowing. I think a tonne of lime will be needed plus 2 bags 10-10-20. The lime is needed at the surface to counter the acidity from the rotting old grasses.

bob charles

freedominacup wrote: »

You have to spray it and it can be sprayed after sowing. Grass seeds I direct drilled last Thurs week 08/08 was up on Sat so window is fairly short post sowing. I think a tonne of lime will be needed plus 2 bags 10-10-20. The lime is needed at the surface to counter the acidity from the rotting old grasses.

what you have to avoid is getting Glyphosate on the new seed as it will cause problems. I have burned off ground after sowing numerous times bit the window is short and at max 5 days, if the weather doesnt come right the latest I have gone is 7 days but you are treading in deep water

Farmer Pudsey

WTF would you spray with gysophate after seeding, why not before. Time window is too tight in present conditions grass could be chitted in 48 hours. In which case the seed would be killed I be inclined to spray first and direct drill after.

If you spread lime in the spring I would use 1 bag 50kgs of granlime to the acre to prevent acidity and either 2000 gallons slurry or two bags 10.10.20.acre.