tiling

johnnyb6

Hi I am going to tile my upstairs bathroom and I wondering is there anything I should look out for. As I am tiling on timber floor I know that I have to put marine plywood onto the floor boards and tile onto this.


Also I have porceline tiles in my hall and kitchen and they seem to be gone dull. Can anyone suggest a way I can bring shine back to them and is there any way of cleaning the grout.


Thanking You:)

irelandspurs

Marine ply is very expensive,Get WBP 9mm and over board existing floor and screw down every 150mm.

johnnyb6

irelandspurs wrote: »

Marine ply is very expensive,Get WBP 9mm and over board existing floor and screw down every 150mm.

Thanks for your reply. when I put down the WBP, would I need to seal any joints between the WBP

Thanking You

Joey the lips

irelandspurs wrote: »

Marine ply is very expensive,Get WBP 9mm and over board existing floor and screw down every 150mm.

Spot on. But i screw every 2" or 50mm. Also make sure you use zinc coated or bass screws. Not more than 20mm and not nails.

I suppose its just a difference.

You will also need to use flex adhesive and grout. even if its a ceramic tile.

johnnyb6

would there be any tips on how to tile around toilet and sink pedestal .

Joey the lips

johnnyb6 wrote: »

would there be any tips on how to tile around toilet and sink pedestal .

Yeah... Take them out... Its not actually that difficult

johnnyb6

Joey the lips wrote: »

Yeah... Take them out... Its not actually that difficult

and would the 9 mm Wbp and tile make pipes too short for sink and would grounds for sink be out too

Thanking You

King Mallie

Hi Johnny,

I often use 6mm ply and I never had any come back, so this may be an option for you.
Also you can the pipe extension which has a penny valve fitted to the end which will be awful handy if you ever have an issue with toilet or sink (it allows you turn off water quickly).

johnnyb6

King Mallie wrote: »

Hi Johnny,

I often use 6mm ply and I never had any come back, so this may be an option for you.
Also you can the pipe extension which has a penny valve fitted to the end which will be awful handy if you ever have an issue with toilet or sink (it allows you turn off water quickly).

Thanks for the help, Are you saying that if I use the 6mm ply and tile on top of this , I pipes to the toilet and sink will be long enough .

King Mallie

Should be. But it better to measure before you start. It depends on the thickness of the tile and the height of the bed of adhesive you use

dodzy

johnnyb6 wrote: »

Thanks for the help, Are you saying that if I use the 6mm ply and tile on top of this , I pipes to the toilet and sink will be long enough .

As Mallie says, no guarantee. Don't be put off though. Toilet and sink pedestal out. Tile the whole area. A much better finish. Just a tip regarding the pedestal ( if it applies to you ). Even though it is there to provide a support function, they can sometimes be removed and the sink left in situ (propped temporarily with a length of wood)

Then just cut 10-15mm off the base with a tile cutting disc in a small angle grinder.

This means that you don't have to worry about potentially extending hot and cold feeds, and waste pipe, which might be a requirement if you were to raise the height.

The toilet waste can be adapted easily if required. There are a multitude of fitting available for extending and repositioning the toilet, and cheap too.

johnnyb6

dodzy wrote: »

As Mallie says, no guarantee. Don't be put off though. Toilet and sink pedestal out. Tile the whole area. A much better finish. Just a tip regarding the pedestal ( if it applies to you ). Even though it is there to provide a support function, they can sometimes be removed and the sink left in situ (propped temporarily with a length of wood)

Then just cut 10-15mm off the base with a tile cutting disc in a small angle grinder.

This means that you don't have to worry about potentially extending hot and cold feeds, and waste pipe, which might be a requirement if you were to raise the height.

The toilet waste can be adapted easily if required. There are a multitude of fitting available for extending and repositioning the toilet, and cheap too.

Hi Dodzy, thanks for your reply. When you say cut 10 -15 mm off base, are you referring to the pedestal. And If so would this not crack because of the material its made of.

dodzy

johnnyb6 wrote: »

Hi Dodzy, thanks for your reply. When you say cut 10 -15 mm off base, are you referring to the pedestal. And If so would this not crack because of the material its made of.

Nope. I use a 4" grinder and tile cutting disc. Knife through butter. Depending on the style, the depth might be more than the small disc can penetrate in one cut, so just cut the front, then flip over and cut the back. They are hollow.

johnnyb6

dodzy wrote: »

Nope. I use a 4" grinder and tile cutting disc. Knife through butter. Depending on the style, the depth might be more than the small disc can penetrate in one cut, so just cut the front, then flip over and cut the back. They are hollow.

Should I purchase an expensive diamond tipped disc for job, and how much would I expect to pay. I did buy 3 in set last year for 25 euro but I wonder would quality be good enough.

johnnyb6

dodzy wrote: »

Nope. I use a 4" grinder and tile cutting disc. Knife through butter. Depending on the style, the depth might be more than the small disc can penetrate in one cut, so just cut the front, then flip over and cut the back. They are hollow.

Thanks again. Should I purchase a expensive diamond tipped disc for job. I did buy 3 in packet last year for 25 euro but did find that the one I used when doing my kitchen floor was chipping the porceline tiles. How much should I pay for 1.

dodzy

johnnyb6 wrote: »

Thanks again. Should I purchase a expensive diamond tipped disc for job. I did buy 3 in packet last year for 25 euro but did find that the one I used when doing my kitchen floor was chipping the porceline tiles. How much should I pay for 1.

Dont go spending mad money. The porceline discs ( the really thing diamond tip blade ) can cost.

This will do just fine, Very light chipping, if any, will not be seen. Just check the hole diameter suits.

If you have any left from your 3 pack, they will be grand.

Mr.Fred

dodzy wrote: »

Then just cut 10-15mm off the base with a tile cutting disc in a small angle grinder.

jaysus making an easy job a potential nightmare there :eek:

If the pipes are short which they more than likely wont be extend them.The waste pipe is most likely to need extending but again it probably won't being upstairs there's usually a bit of play in the floor cavity.

You'll probably have to drill new holes for the sink to fix to the wall as you'll probably be raising it up 10-15mm once everythings done.

3ndahalfof6

Can we use PVA on this job, or should I just leave.

dodzy

Mr.Fred wrote: »

jaysus making an easy job a potential nightmare there :eek:

If the pipes are short which they more than likely wont be extend them.The waste pipe is most likely to need extending but again it probably won't being upstairs there's usually a bit of play in the floor cavity.

You'll probably have to drill new holes for the sink to fix to the wall as you'll probably be raising it up 10-15mm once everythings done.

If the pipes, H/C feeds & waste, do need extending, plus pulling the sink off the wall ( probably causing more damage depending on how it was attached ) is far more work than cutting the pedestal. I'm not sure what nightmare you are referring to. Obviously, if there is sufficient movement in all above, and the sink is only screwed to the wall, then that is of course the easier route.

Cutting the pedestal is not nearly as dramatic as you suggest.

dodzy

3ndahalfof6 wrote: »

Can we use PVA on this job, or should I just leave.

The latter.

Mr.Fred

Cutting the pedestal is not as dramatic as I think yet you mention slight chipping on the botom of it.

I'm sorry but that sounds like gunthering to me.

when I do a job I do it right or don't bother.

OP extending the pipes is a simple job, cutting a perfectly good pedestal is ridiculous in my opinion.

If the tiling on your wall was done properly the sink would've been removed before tiling the only damage will be 2 holes which will now become obsolete as you'll be drilling 2 new ones approx 10-15mm above the old ones which will be covered once the sink is installed.

If you cut the pedestal short then what is your plan??

Also Dodzy do you also recommend cutting the bottom of the toilet pan aswell if the cold water feed is short.

I've never heard such terrible advice.

OP I'd await a bit further advice from others before following the advice you've been given.

johnnyb6

Mr.Fred wrote: »

Cutting the pedestal is not as dramatic as I think yet you mention slight chipping on the botom of it.

I'm sorry but that sounds like gunthering to me.

when I do a job I do it right or don't bother.

OP extending the pipes is a simple job, cutting a perfectly good pedestal is ridiculous in my opinion.

If the tiling on your wall was done properly the sink would've been removed before tiling the only damage will be 2 holes which will now become obsolete as you'll be drilling 2 new ones approx 10-15mm above the old ones which will be covered once the sink is installed.

If you cut the pedestal short then what is your plan??

Also Dodzy do you also recommend cutting the bottom of the toilet pan aswell if the cold water feed is short.

I've never heard such terrible advice.

OP I'd await a bit further advice from others before following the advice you've been given.

but how would you remove sink if splash back is fitted like in my case

20/20

I agree with Mr.Fred its just gunthering.
Firstly how could anybody cut a neat straight line around the pesestal ? you may then need to fill in around the base with white silicone when you refit this will look very dirty and grubby.
Also the base is soild (it may be easy to cut) but once cut it will weaken pedestal structure and if it ever gets a kick or knock will break.
I suggest turn off water at hotpress and then use a fitting like this http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/pipe_fittings/-specificproducttype-connectors/PlumbSure-Flexi-Comp-Tap-Connector-W-Valve-15-X-12-7-x-300mm-11478194?icamp=recs from all good hardwares and plumbing merchants,you can then turn water on and off from the little screw on the valve and because its flexible move it around up and down.

3ndahalfof6

shut off the water and remove the toilet and sink then fit caps to the pipes so you can turn the water back on while you are doing the job, extending the pipe work is not to difficult and it will give you the chance to install shut off valves,

have you tiled before OP?

johnnyb6

3ndahalfof6 wrote: »

shut off the water and remove the toilet and sink then fit caps to the pipes so you can turn the water back on while you are doing the job, extending the pipe work is not to difficult and it will give you the chance to install shut off valves,

have you tiled before OP?

yes I have tiled many times but just around my house, but i particular and believe in doing job once and do it right

3ndahalfof6

Is it a tiled back splash, if yes, how many tiles, are they fitted behind the sink or on top of it?

johnnyb6

3ndahalfof6 wrote: »

Is it a tiled back splash, if yes, how many tiles, are they fitted behind the sink or on top of it?

3 rectangular tiles ontop of sink which complicates things. I might still have to move sink up onto these tiles as it will be messy job removing them as they on stud partition

dodzy

Mr.Fred wrote: »

Cutting the pedestal is not as dramatic as I think yet you mention slight chipping on the botom of it.

I'm sorry but that sounds like gunthering to me.

when I do a job I do it right or don't bother.

OP extending the pipes is a simple job, cutting a perfectly good pedestal is ridiculous in my opinion.

If the tiling on your wall was done properly the sink would've been removed before tiling the only damage will be 2 holes which will now become obsolete as you'll be drilling 2 new ones approx 10-15mm above the old ones which will be covered once the sink is installed.

If you cut the pedestal short then what is your plan??

Also Dodzy do you also recommend cutting the bottom of the toilet pan aswell if the cold water feed is short.

I've never heard such terrible advice.

OP I'd await a bit further advice from others before following the advice you've been given.

In relation to cutting the bottom of the toilet, you are being silly. The pedestal chipping I am referring to is very minute. I am all for clean work, and clean finishing. The cut can be done well, neatly and without hassle. I'm sure you have encountered issues where removing the sink causes more issues and reveals underlying mess.

In relation to weakening the structure, unless people intend kicking the sh1t out of it, there will be no problem.

In addition, a neat silicon bead around the pedestal base causes no issues and is not unsightly in any way, unless badly applied.

3ndahalfof6

johnnyb6 wrote: »

3 rectangular tiles ontop of sink which complicates things. I might still have to move sink up onto these tiles as it will be messy job removing them as they on stud partition

Yes, as long as they are the full width of the sink, it would be a no mess option.

20/20

dodzy i personaly think that a man with leather shoes knocking the pedestal would be a risk and dont think the poster will be able to cut it either,or put silicone neatly around it.After all he is worried about three tiles on the wall that act as a splashback,these would be childsplay to replace.I would suggest chopping these off and replacing them with new tiles from the floor after the basin is raised.

dodzy

johnnyb6 wrote: »

3 rectangular tiles ontop of sink which complicates things. I might still have to move sink up onto these tiles as it will be messy job removing them as they on stud partition

Throw up a 2 pics, front view and pipe work area also.

johnnyb6

dodzy wrote: »

Throw up a 2 pics, front view and pipe work area also.

Thanks very much for all your help. I did the tilting today and had very little problems. I am grouting it tomorrow. I extended the pipes and fitted the valves and it turned out that I was worrying over nothing. As the saying goes every job is 5% knowledge and 95% cop on. I am grateful for all the advice I got over the last few days .

dodzy

johnnyb6 wrote: »

Thanks very much for all your help. I did the tilting today and had very little problems. I am grouting it tomorrow. I extended the pipes and fitted the valves and it turned out that I was worrying over nothing. As the saying goes every job is 5% knowledge and 95% cop on. I am grateful for all the advice I got over the last few days .

Good man. Fair play to ya:)