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Help! I've over-pressurised my boiler

  • 05-03-2013 6:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭


    Have an Ideal ICOS HE15 boiler that was losing pressure so I was manually topping up BUT a couple of days ago I accidentally over-pressurised the system. I was told the optimum pressure is between 1 - 2 bar and it's now at 3 when cold. I bled some radiators hoping that might help release some pressure but when I switched it on today the pressure rose to 3.5 (it was at 3 bar before I switched it on). Is there anything I can do to decrease the pressure? I believe it's a closed system so I'm a bit stumped.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,444 ✭✭✭sky6


    It will increase pressure when you heat the Water. When cold, Just keep bleeding out Water or you should have a drain cock somewhere on the system where you can let the Water out quicker. Lower it back to 1.5 Bar should be fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Turty3


    Thanks, I've released approx two litres of water and switched it on, it's gone back up to 2.6 bar! Bugger more bleeding! :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Turty3 wrote: »
    Thanks, I've released approx two litres of water and switched it on, it's gone back up to 2.6 bar! Bugger more bleeding! :(
    You could have a problem with your expansion vessel. When the system is cold, drop pressure to 1 bar. Turn in the boiler and watch the pressure gauge. It shouldn't go above 1.5. If it does you'll have to get an RGI to re charge your vessel if that is the problem.
    Are you disconnecting your filling loop after each time you re pressurise?
    How often do you top up the heating?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    Did you get the pressure to drop or is it still at or in and around 3 bar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    Turty3 wrote: »
    but when I switched it on today the pressure rose to 3.5 (it was at 3 bar before I switched it on). Is there anything I can do to decrease the pressure? I believe it's a closed system so I'm a bit stumped.

    I know gauges and pressure relief valves are not always exact, but it would be worth getting them checked out as the pressure relief (safety) valve should have released pressure/water at 3 bar


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    If the automatic filling valve is broke the gauge will automatically stick to 3bar or in and around it anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 579 ✭✭✭jrby


    Quick question: I have to top mine up every so often, say every two months or so....

    Does this mean that i have a leak somewhere?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    jrby wrote: »
    Quick question: I have to top mine up every so often, say every two months or so....

    Does this mean that i have a leak somewhere?

    Ye I'd say so alright.

    Is there a none return valve n the feed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 579 ✭✭✭jrby


    I have no idea. Any thoughts i what i should do? if anything..

    Theres no obvious signs of dampness, the house is about 20 years old and we've had it for the last 6


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Turty3


    Hi Folks

    The problem is still there and it's worse each day. Despite bleeding a total of about 3 litres from the system the pressure gauge is now at 3 bar when cold and last night it shot up to 4 bar (from 2.5 cold) when I switched on the boiler. I thought there would be a safety feature that cut off the boiler if the pressure was too high but it just stayed on as normal and the rads got warm. I figure the only thing now is to call out a heating specialist and get the problem sorted for once and for all. Thanks for all the input.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Do you still have the filler valve open by any chance?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Turty3 wrote: »
    Hi Folks

    The problem is still there and it's worse each day. Despite bleeding a total of about 3 litres from the system the pressure gauge is now at 3 bar when cold and last night it shot up to 4 bar (from 2.5 cold) when I switched on the boiler. I thought there would be a safety feature that cut off the boiler if the pressure was too high but it just stayed on as normal and the rads got warm. I figure the only thing now is to call out a heating specialist and get the problem sorted for once and for all. Thanks for all the input.

    It's time to call in a rgi to sort it out


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,327 ✭✭✭Merch


    On the other side of the coin, my pressure keeps dropping when the heating goes off, but goes back up when the heating comes on after a while.

    (it goes down to .3bar and when heated up to 1.8)

    Id presume there is a leak, but can see no signs of one anywhere nor am I refilling it???

    I began to suspect the non return valve from the tank was not effective, but I checked to ensure the gate valve between the non return valve and the tank was closed, which it is.

    Im already weighing the options of replacing the boiler, but hoped it was a bit off, I dont really have money to get it (the heating) repaired, nor do I want to end up paying a similar amount to get it repaired as Id end up in getting it (the boiler)replaced. (Not that I think replacing the boiler will fix the problem, it may just be additional stuff needing doing)


    1.Now Im wondering if even a small leak somewhere might be causing the problem as no evidence of a leak is visible
    OR
    2.If the leak is internal, as in from the heating coil into the hot water in the tank?

    If (2) above is correct, any way to tell? getting the tank replaced with an insulated one (in lieu of the jacket covered one now was a possibility too)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    Merch wrote: »
    On the other side of the coin, my pressure keeps dropping when the heating goes off, but goes back up when the heating comes on after a while.

    (it goes down to .3bar and when heated up to 1.8)

    Id presume there is a leak, but can see no signs of one anywhere nor am I refilling it???

    I began to suspect the non return valve from the tank was not effective, but I checked to ensure the gate valve between the non return valve and the tank was closed, which it is.

    Im already weighing the options of replacing the boiler, but hoped it was a bit off, I dont really have money to get it (the heating) repaired, nor do I want to end up paying a similar amount to get it repaired as Id end up in getting it (the boiler)replaced. (Not that I think replacing the boiler will fix the problem, it may just be additional stuff needing doing)


    1.Now Im wondering if even a small leak somewhere might be causing the problem as no evidence of a leak is visible
    OR
    2.If the leak is internal, as in from the heating coil into the hot water in the tank?

    If (2) above is correct, any way to tell? getting the tank replaced with an insulated one (in lieu of the jacket covered one now was a possibility too)

    if the pressure is droping when cold and rising when hot you have a problem vith your expansion vessel as dtp suggested earlier in the thread.
    Dtp79 wrote: »
    You could have a problem with your expansion vessel. When the system is cold, drop pressure to 1 bar. Turn in the boiler and watch the pressure gauge. It shouldn't go above 1.5. If it does you'll have to get an RGI to re charge your vessel if that is the problem.
    Are you disconnecting your filling loop after each time you re pressurise?
    How often do you top up the heating?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,327 ✭✭✭Merch


    TPM wrote: »
    if the pressure is droping when cold and rising when hot you have a problem vith your expansion vessel as dtp suggested earlier in the thread.


    That was probably a suggestion to the OP, Id say it could apply to me, but I had my expansion vessel replaced last year, while not impossible, I think its unlikely its gone already, the first one lasted 15years.

    unless this is still a problem, I dont want to
    have to get it re done, is there anything else that could cause it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    you might think its unlikely but with issues like you are having the pressure vessel is always the first thing to check even if its brand new, some times pipes connecting the vessel can block.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,327 ✭✭✭Merch


    TPM wrote: »
    you might think its unlikely but with issues like you are having the pressure vessel is always the first thing to check even if its brand new, some times pipes connecting the vessel can block.

    Ok, thanks,
    its cold so I dont really want to shut the heating off, (I dont even think I would be allowed)

    Could this create other problems in the interim of getting it sorted?
    Its going to 1.8 bar, there is a safety valve fitted, nothing is coming out of it? so I assume its not over pressurising.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    the safety valve should only release pressure when the pressure rises over 3 bar so from that point of view you should be ok for the time being.
    The fluctuating pressure does need to be sorted out, but you should be ok leaving it short term and getting it fixed when (if:rolleyes:) the weather warms up


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,327 ✭✭✭Merch


    TPM wrote: »
    the safety valve should only release pressure when the pressure rises over 3 bar so from that point of view you should be ok for the time being.
    The fluctuating pressure does need to be sorted out, but you should be ok leaving it short term and getting it fixed when (if:rolleyes:) the weather warms up

    ok thanks
    I'll get an earful if its turned off in this cold.


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