BMW 318i estate

amjon.

Thinking of going for one of these E46, 2001, a years NCT and 100k on the clock.

Anything I should be looking out for?

jk536

I had a 318i and id have to say any signs of overheating.they are renowned for it and mine broke my heart with it.
Also id say the wishbone bushings but if has just passed the nct it should be ok.

amjon.

Cheers, any sign of overheating apart from sitting in the car watching the thermo that I could see on a inspection?

Will be dropping it into a mechanic friend so I'll mention this to them too.

2ndcoming

Definitely take it for a test drive. Most of them wouldn't pull the socks off you.

jk536

amjon. wrote: »

Cheers, any sign of overheating apart from sitting in the car watching the thermo that I could see on a inspection?

Have a good look around the expansion tank in the engine bay for any signs of an overspill or excess pressure or even a new one as they are prone to fail if there has been issues.also open the top and have a look in to see if any "leak fixing" products are coating the inside.

May seem a bit much but better safe than sorry!

The Pontiac

I just love these, as the saloons are feckin everywhere!

Juan Pablo

Check the rear subframe mounts carefully, known issue on the E46 and an expensive fix if cracked

Idbatterim

the older 1.9L engine in that car power wise is a total joke, given car of that size. Also the accelerators on the coupes are ridiculously stiff. Also I had quite a bit spent on getting various stuff done to my year 2000 318 coupe. Id go with a 6 cylider like the 2.2 if you can afford it...

biko

Great looking cars but as said, cooling system is an issue in these.
If they let you, drive from cold until hot and then a bit.

Read the general guidelines in the sticky. Check oil and coolant for any discolourations.
New NCT is a plus but won't say much about the engine.

Use rips/marks on seats as bargain point. You can easily get replacements from people breaking old beamers.

At that age not all services will be recorded, many do them personally. It's up to you if that's a worry.

delly

Idbatterim wrote: »

the older 1.9L engine in that car power wise is a total joke, given car of that size. Also the accelerators on the coupes are ridiculously stiff. Also I had quite a bit spent on getting various stuff done to my year 2000 318 coupe. Id go with a 6 cylider like the 2.2 if you can afford it...

I have this engine in my '01 coupe and think it is a rocket (had a 1.2 Punto before, so I'm aloud to say that ). I also had the stiff accelerator pedal and managed to sort it myself by increasing the idle position on the throttle body connection.

Issues to look for are as mentioned relate to overheating, but more specifically the cooling system being the cause. The expansion tank is a common problem as it splits with age, so look for any liquid on the bottom of the engine bay. I initially wasn't sure if I was just looking at some form of inverse condensation, as any liquid on the expansion tank itself will dry quickly.

Check that the rear of the car isn't sitting on broken coil springs. It is another common issue but surprisingly doesn't really affect the driving, but you will know it a mile away by the gap of the wheel arches.

Check if the fan is making a pulsating noise, as this can indicator the 'final stage resistor' is about to fail. You have to listen to this on a low fan speed setting.

Check for oil at the bottom of the oil filter, which indicates that the oil filter gasket needs replacing. It is usually just a slow seep, but you will see it.

Check for the usual dash lights. Passenger seat sensors for the airbags give a bit of bother, but can be coded off the system. If you get an orange oil light coming on just after the car is started, this usually means that the oil level sensor is out of action. It is a common issue, and just means that you are 100% reliant on checking your oil the old school way. It is also not an NCT failure.

All of the above happened to me over the last year, all are common issues, and all are relatively easy to fix. In each case I managed to diagnose the problems, get the parts, then get my local mechanic to do the job. Most of the issues are not deal breakers, but you can use them as bargaining points. The most important would be the cooling system though. If there is a leak and it is just being topped up to cover it, it is really an owner who is taking a big gamble.

Idbatterim

I have this engine in my '01 coupe and think it is a rocket (had a 1.2 Punto before, so I'm aloud to say that ). I also had the stiff accelerator pedal and managed to sort it myself by increasing the idle position on the throttle body connection.

coming from a punto, this will seem quick, but its all relative, im in a 325ci now with 192bhp, and I wouldnt consider that particularly fast to be honest with you, in late 2001 the 1.9L engine was replaced with a 2L one, has 143bhp, but as engine is more complex, more to go wrong, is bit of a soft engine. Having driven the 2L petrol, it was certainly a far nicer drive than the 1.9 I had, the bro had the 2L coupe until he sold it last year... If your thinking of BM for next car Delly, try get a 6 cylinder, you wont go back

delly

Idbatterim wrote: »

coming from a punto, this will seem quick, but its all relative, im in a 325ci now with 192bhp, and I wouldnt consider that particularly fast to be honest with you, in late 2001 the 1.9L engine was replaced with a 2L one, has 143bhp, but as engine is more complex, more to go wrong, is bit of a soft engine. Having driven the 2L petrol, it was certainly a far nicer drive than the 1.9 I had, the bro had the 2L coupe until he sold it last year... If your thinking of BM for next car Delly, try get a 6 cylinder, you wont go back

Yeah, mine was from mid '01, so the very last of the 1.9's. tbh I only got the car through circumstance, so it was never an intended purchase. A year in with nearly 10k up, it is probably worth the same as what I paid for it, but with having sorted a lot of the small things, I'm hoping she will serve me well into the future.

amjon.

Is it bonkers to be buying a used BMW in the 3k price range?

ba_barabus

amjon. wrote: »

Is it bonkers to be buying a used BMW in the 3k price range?

No

amjon.

Ok, so the first one I was looking at has rust damage and the mechanic reckons it will be roughly 400e work to do on it so going to give it a miss.

I have been in contact with another seller: private, 318i 2002 e46 touring again sent the full history by email which was great given he is a long journey away. The rough summary is below:

2007 - Bought from a BMW dealer, second hand.

2008 Had an issue with slow transmission oil leak (not impacting performance but leaving evidence of small oil drip when parked up). Kearys replaced transmission seal under warranty but later it turned out to be just a bad seal on the sump plug. Also had problem with Engine Check light, Kearys replaced Lamda and O2 sensors but subsequently the cause was determined to be a small crack in an air inlet pipe, all work done under warranty by Kearys. I also got the dealer to renew brake/clutch/coolant fluids (not required but did it for peace of mind), they also replaced coolant hoses under warranty due to minor crack.

2011: Rear springs replaced after being advised during a service

2012: Rear brake Lines replaced after NCT failure.

2013: Link replaced in rear suspension after NCT failure (minor 50 euro job)


It has been a trouble free car after some teething issues with engine check light and transmission seal during the warranty period, any work done since was either related to NCT or routine servicing.

What do you guys reckon? I'd say the brakes will need to be done in the next 10k as last done 20k miles ago/. At 81k so fast approaching the 100k mark where things begin to go wrong.

amjon.

amjon. wrote: »

Ok, so the first one I was looking at has rust damage and the mechanic reckons it will be roughly 400e work to do on it so going to give it a miss.

I have been in contact with another seller: private, 318i 2002 e46 touring again sent the full history by email which was great given he is a long journey away. The rough summary is below:

2007 - Bought from a BMW dealer, second hand.

2008 Had an issue with slow transmission oil leak (not impacting performance but leaving evidence of small oil drip when parked up). Kearys replaced transmission seal under warranty but later it turned out to be just a bad seal on the sump plug. Also had problem with Engine Check light, Kearys replaced Lamda and O2 sensors but subsequently the cause was determined to be a small crack in an air inlet pipe, all work done under warranty by Kearys. I also got the dealer to renew brake/clutch/coolant fluids (not required but did it for peace of mind), they also replaced coolant hoses under warranty due to minor crack.

2011: Rear springs replaced after being advised during a service

2012: Rear brake Lines replaced after NCT failure.

2013: Link replaced in rear suspension after NCT failure (minor 50 euro job)


It has been a trouble free car after some teething issues with engine check light and transmission seal during the warranty period, any work done since was either related to NCT or routine servicing.

What do you guys reckon? I'd say the brakes will need to be done in the next 10k as last done 20k miles ago/. At 81k so fast approaching the 100k mark where things begin to go wrong.

Anyone?

delly

It sounds like a decent enough example. I had the brake lines for last years NCT and also did the springs just after I had purchased, so common enough but pretty straight forward issues. Also the fact that the seller takes advice from a service is a good sign.