NCT was a epic fail

GE90

My car failed the NCT last Friday. Its a 99 mazda 323 with 162500 miles.

It failed on the following:

Exhaust Emissions
High idle:
CO: 0.49 % (Max 0.30%)

Head Light Aim
%
Dip Beam on Offside failed.

Visual /Aural

Battery mounting is Insecure
Anti Roll bar link is Worn offside front
Anti Roll bar bushes is Worn offside and nearside rear
CV boot is Insecure nearside front
Ball joint is Worn offside front
Shock Absorber is Leaking nearside rear.

The front suspension imbalance was 24% above 30% would have been a fail.
Service break effort was 59% below 55 would have been a fail.
High idle Hydro carbon has 195ppm above 200 would have been a fail.

It was a lot worse than i was expecting tbh. In reality i probably need new 4 new shocks, two front ball joints, new bushes and links all around. I can do this work my self and a reckon i am looking at 500-600 for parts. The engine emissions are worrying and i might end up needing a new cat.

Obviously even on parts alone it will cost far more then the car is worth to fix it.

What would you do in my situation? Is it worth fixing ? I am starting to come to the conclusion that i should cut my losses and buy a new car. Budget would be 600-800, max 1.4 liter any recommendations ? It has to be reliable and a years nct would be a huge bonus. Other then that i am not two picky.

Thanks guys.

2ndcoming

Have a look in the Bangernomics thread. Looks like it's the end of the line for that Mazda all right.

CiniO

To be honest, considering you will do the job yourself, it doesn't look that bad.
If you source the parts cheaply (preferebly buy them all online from abroad - might come cheaper) it shouldn't cost even half what you said.

The biggest problem IMHO is emissions, as it's really hard to say what is causing it.

dgt

If I were you I'd get another 323 the same and make a good car from the 2

JohnBoy26

In your position it's one of these id be getting. You won't get a more reliable car. http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/cars/4511206

mel.b

I also have a 99 mazda 323 (though with less miles) that has failed the nct with similar problems...

2011 nct - failed on emissions...a good service did the trick

2012 nct - all anti roll bars and bushes needed replacing. Left rear suspension needed replacing. Also failed as a front headlight and rear light lamp glass were broken.

I spent €500 on 2nd parts (suspension, front and rear lamps) a new battery and labour to get it through the nct 2nd time round. Felt like driving a new car, was so much smoother to drive! Whenever i saw the mechanic he tells me it is a great car and the things that need doing are just wear and tear rather than mechanical. It has never given me any mechanical trouble. Maybe you are better with what you know rather than what you don't? Then start saving so you can put more towards a better car in another year or two?

GE90

dgt wrote: »

If I were you I'd get another 323 the same and make a good car from the 2

I was thinking along that line, but i can only do the work weekends and i cant do without a car during the week.

I have no intention of getting rid of the Mazda ill park it up and do the work when i have time/money. It could be a project for myself (on top of the countless others :pac:)

JohnBoy26

dgt wrote: »

If I were you I'd get another 323 the same and make a good car from the 2

you could be just buying a car with the exact same problems though :pac:

dgt

GE90 wrote: »

I was thinking along that line, but i can only do the work weekends and i cant do without a car during the week.

I have no intention of getting rid of the Mazda ill park it up and do the work when i have time/money. It could be a project for myself (on top of the countless others :pac:)

I live a nightmare at times, don't end up like me but do consider my suggestion

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

you could be just buying a car with the exact same problems though :pac:

Isn't that the fun of it all? Dismantling the cars to find what's gone wrong, replacing consumables with new parts, binning the rest and getting money for the shell? I get a great kick out of that....

Alas others may not. Meh....

JohnBoy26

dgt wrote: »

I live a nightmare at times, don't end up like me but do consider my suggestion



Isn't that the fun of it all? Dismantling the cars to find what's gone wrong, replacing consumables with new parts, binning the rest and getting money for the shell? I get a great kick out of that....

Alas others may not. Meh....

No im not saying it isn't fun or anything . It's just in the op's situation if they really wanted to buy another 323, they would be better off spending extra and get a clean example with a full nct imo.

dgt

Touché

Keep the other one for spares

GE90

Nows theirs a idea

The Pontiac

I wouldn't bother trying to fix the Mazda. Just too many things wrong. The emissions might prove to be a problem.

Better off buying something that just passed the NCT.

Something like this. Just an example mind.

You might find something better than the Lanos.

nct tester

CiniO wrote: »

To be honest, considering you will do the job yourself, it doesn't look that bad.
If you source the parts cheaply (preferebly buy them all online from abroad - might come cheaper) it shouldn't cost even half what you said.

what website do you use??

JohnBoy26

The Pontiac wrote: »

I wouldn't bother trying to fix the Mazda. Just too many things wrong. The emissions might prove to be a problem.

Better off buying something that just passed the NCT.

Something like this. Just an example mind.

You might find something better than the Lanos.

The op would be better off fixing what he's got instead of buying a lanos. A mazda 323 is light years ahead of them Them lanos are desperately poor quality cars.

Avns1s

The Pontiac wrote: »

I wouldn't bother trying to fix the Mazda. Just too many things wrong. The emissions might prove to be a problem.

Better off buying something that just passed the NCT.

Something like this. Just an example mind.

You might find something better than the Lanos.

That wouldn't be too difficult!!

JohnBoy26

Avns1s wrote: »

That wouldn't be too difficult!!

The Pontiac

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

The op would be better off fixing what he's got instead of buying a lanos. A mazda 323 is light years ahead of them Them lanos are desperately poor quality cars.

But the point is the Mazda is in bits. You'd be crazy spending money on it. We all know the Mazda 323 is a miles better than the Lanos.

I told you it was only an example. It does look clean, fresh NCT, and low miles (maybe a bit too low) if genuine. I said you could probably find better. But remember the OP has only circa €700 at his disposal.

JohnBoy26

The Pontiac wrote: »

But the point is the Mazda is in bits. You'd be crazy spending money on it. We all know the Mazda 323 is a miles better than the Lanos.

I told you it was only an example. It does look clean, fresh NCT, and low miles (maybe a bit too low) if genuine. I said you could probably find better. But remember the OP has only circa €700 at his disposal.

I know it's only an example . I was just saying that they aren't a very good car. Even at low mileage components are worn in them.

GE90

This looks interesting : http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/cars/4470972
any thoughts ?

dgt

GE90 wrote: »

This looks interesting : http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/cars/4470972
any toughs ?

Our roads are sh*te so don't be surprised if it needs suspension components

JohnBoy26

GE90 wrote: »

This looks interesting : http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/cars/4470972
any toughs ?

You could be back to square one in may with that. Aim for something with a long nct is my advice

GE90

Mazda 323 with a long nct seem to be rare.

The Pontiac

GE90 wrote: »

This looks interesting : http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/cars/4470972
any thoughts ?

You can book an NCT three months early. Why isn't it tested, for the sake of €55?

Tell the owner you'll buy on condition it passes the test, and hear what they have to say.

JohnBoy26

GE90 wrote: »

Mazda 323 with a long nct seem to be rare.

Then id advise you to go for another car or fix your own. The car you linked could have the same problems as your own car, plus you'l be down 500 on the purchase price. At the end of the day if you buy that car you could be putting yourself in a worse position than you already are.

GE90

tbh i kind of fancy a change. Iv have the mazda for over 3 years.

corkgsxr

has it bee serviced in the last while? or what done at servise

GE90

I service her myself every 8000 miles. Last service was about 2500 miles ago, oil, filters, plugs, and changed the ignition leads. She burns about a liter of oil every 3000 miles which i don't think is that excessive. I would do 70% of my driving on country roads so the suspension takes a bit of a battering.

corkgsxr

It shouldn't burn that much. My 323f burnt nothing with 140k miles and it used to get reved hard enough.

Id junk it. Those emissions are prob engine wear issues

Nissan doctor

For the emissions results you got, on a 323 I'd be sourcing a new(not second hand) air flow meter. Its very common for these to read poorly with age causing fuel ratio issues and high HC readings. The oil usage wouldn't help either and the combination of the two would certainly damage the cat over time, leading to the high CO readings you got.

Everything else on the list is just wear and tear items so if the rest of the car is in good condition(body, interior etc) then IMO it makes perfect sense to repair it, especially as you can do the work yourself.

FridaysWell

Nissan doctor wrote: »

For the emissions results you got, on a 323 I'd be sourcing a new(not second hand) air flow meter. Its very common for these to read poorly with age causing fuel ratio issues and high HC readings. The oil usage wouldn't help either and the combination of the two would certainly damage the cat over time, leading to the high CO readings you got.

Everything else on the list is just wear and tear items so if the rest of the car is in good condition(body, interior etc) then IMO it makes perfect sense to repair it, especially as you can do the work yourself.

OP listen to this guy. Words of wisdom.

If you're buying a 2nd hand car at that sort of money, especially in this country, you will more than likely buy a heap of ****e that will fall apart after a month, regardless of a 'full NCT' or whatever. Stick with what you have, at least you know exactly whats wrong with the car and how you can fix it etc, get another year out of it.

JohnBoy26

FridaysWell wrote: »

OP listen to this guy. Words of wisdom.

If you're buying a 2nd hand car at that sort of money, especially in this country, you will more than likely buy a heap of ****e that will fall apart after a month, regardless of a 'full NCT' or whatever. Stick with what you have, at least you know exactly whats wrong with the car and how you can fix it etc, get another year out of it.

If the op gets a good car with a full test for the same price as it's going to cost to fix his own what exactly is wrong with that?

FridaysWell

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

If the op gets a good car with a full test for the same price as it's going to cost to fix his own what exactly is wrong with that?

Thats if he gets a good car.

Time = money, and it would take you an age to find a good car at that price, so why not fix it and you know its grand?

It would make more sense to sort out your own car for the same money or less, rather than buying a more than likely piece of crap or 'potential' piece of ****e.

JohnBoy26

FridaysWell wrote: »

Thats if he gets a good car.

Time = money, and it would take you an age to find a good car at that price, so why not fix it and you know its grand?

It would make more sense to sort out your own car for the same money or less, rather than buying a more than likely piece of crap or 'potential' piece of ****e.

The op's budget is 600 - 800 which would get them something half decent with a full years test, granted there is a lot of garbage at this price bracket also, but you only have to look as far as the bangernomics thread to see that there are some good cars out there as well.

Now fixing up the car is also a good option, as long as the rest of the car is in good condition. If it's not, the op is only throwing money at something that's not worth it imo.

FridaysWell

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

The op's budget is 600 - 800 which would get them something half decent with a full years test, granted there is a lot of garbage at this price bracket also, but you only have to look as far as the bangernomics thread to see that there are some good cars out there as well.

Now fixing up the car is also a good option, as long as the rest of the car is in good condition. If it's not, the op is only throwing money at something that's not worth it imo.

How many cars that fit the OPs requirements are in the bangernomics thread?

Spend the same or less and fix a car, where you know exactly what is right and wrong with it, rather than buying a heap etc, etc as I've and others have said above...

JohnBoy26

FridaysWell wrote: »

How many cars that fit the OPs requirements are in the bangernomics thread?

Spend the same or less and fix a car, where you know exactly what is right and wrong with it, rather than buying a heap etc, etc as I've and others have said above...

I have myself posted a good few car in there over the past couple of weeks that fit the op's requirement.

There are plenty of perfectly good cars out there for that kind of money that aren't a ''heap''. Your just assuming that all cars in that price range are which isn't true.

You could also say why fix a ''heap'' when you can buy a better car for the same amount of money or maybe a little more.

FridaysWell

FridaysWell wrote: »

Thats if he gets a good car.

It would make more sense to sort out your own car for the same money or less, rather than buying a more than likely piece of crap or 'potential' piece of ****e.

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

I have myself posted a good few car in there over the past couple of weeks that fit the op's requirement.

There are plenty of perfectly good cars out there for that kind of money that aren't a ''heap''. Your just assuming that all cars in that price range are which isn't true.

You could also say why fix a ''heap'' when you can buy a better car for the same amount of money or maybe a little more.

I said that there is a greater chance of buying a car that is or nearly in worse condition than the car the OP has. I did not say all cars in that price range are crap. So I'm not assuming anything.

You fix the car yourself and then at least you know exactly whats right and wrong with it. I believe thats a better option than taking a chance and buying another car.

JohnBoy26

FridaysWell wrote: »

I said that there is a greater chance of buying a car that is or nearly in worse condition than the car the OP has. I did not say all cars in that price range are crap. So I'm not assuming anything.

You fix the car yourself and then at least you know exactly whats right and wrong with it. I believe thats a better option than taking a chance and buying another car.

It is indeed, If the car is in good condition otherwise. But if the car is in poor condition it wouldn't be worth spending the money on it imo.

Also when you say there is a greater chance of findinding a car in worse condition than the op's, well if looking for a car that has just past the nct it just has to be in better roadworthy condition than the op's.

FridaysWell

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

Also when you say there is a greater chance of findinding a car in worse condition than the op's, well if looking for a car that has just past the nct it just has to be in better roadworthy condition than the op's.

You do realise that I am referring to the OPs car when he/she fixes it and gets it through the NCT?

JohnBoy26

FridaysWell wrote: »

You do realise that I am referring to the OPs car when he/she fixes it and gets it through the NCT?

FridaysWell wrote: »

I said that there is a greater chance of buying a car that is or nearly in worse condition than the car the OP has.

I didn't think you were tbh

brianc42

GE90 wrote: »

My car failed the NCT last Friday. Its a 99 mazda 323 with 162500 miles.

It failed on the following:

Exhaust Emissions
High idle:
CO: 0.49 % (Max 0.30%)

Head Light Aim
%
Dip Beam on Offside failed.

Visual /Aural

Battery mounting is Insecure
Anti Roll bar link is Worn offside front
Anti Roll bar bushes is Worn offside and nearside rear
CV boot is Insecure nearside front
Ball joint is Worn offside front
Shock Absorber is Leaking nearside rear.

The front suspension imbalance was 24% above 30% would have been a fail.
Service break effort was 59% below 55 would have been a fail.
High idle Hydro carbon has 195ppm above 200 would have been a fail.

It was a lot worse than i was expecting tbh. In reality i probably need new 4 new shocks, two front ball joints, new bushes and links all around. I can do this work my self and a reckon i am looking at 500-600 for parts. The engine emissions are worrying and i might end up needing a new cat.

Obviously even on parts alone it will cost far more then the car is worth to fix it.

What would you do in my situation? Is it worth fixing ? I am starting to come to the conclusion that i should cut my losses and buy a new car. Budget would be 600-800, max 1.4 liter any recommendations ? It has to be reliable and a years nct would be a huge bonus. Other then that i am not two picky.

Thanks guys.

Whip out the air filter just before the test. That will reduce your emissions. Have the engine hot too.

Nissan doctor

brianc42 wrote: »

Whip out the air filter just before the test. That will reduce your emissions. Have the engine hot too.

And this cowboy mindset is why people are afraid of buying older cheap cars in this country. :rolleyes:

brianc42

Nissan doctor wrote: »

And this cowboy mindset is why people are afraid of buying older cheap cars in this country. :rolleyes:

It will be put back in when the test is done.And it does not harm the engine in any way. Christ you are some tulip.

ba_barabus

brianc42 wrote: »

It will be put back in when the test is done.And it does not harm the engine in any way. Christ you are some tulip.

Would you also advocate swapping tyres prior to test and swapping them back because the ones currently on it with lots of thread don't have an E stamp on them?

Ash.J.Williams

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

In your position it's one of these id be getting. You won't get a more reliable car. http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/cars/4511206

i 2nd that!! Got me out of a fix a few years ago and still have it...only 166k on the clock but sure hopefully good for another 200k!

JohnBoy26

Ash.J.Williams wrote: »

i 2nd that!! Got me out of a fix a few years ago and still have it...only 166k on the clock but sure hopefully good for another 200k!

If it's the same model as the car in the pic, you will have no problem with high mileage. They are as close to faultless motoring as you will get. The only other car to match their reliability is a late 90's honda civic.

brianc42

ba_barabus wrote: »

Would you also advocate swapping tyres prior to test and swapping them back because the ones currently on it with lots of thread don't have an E stamp on them?

That is a safety issue. Any one with a working brain would know not to mess with any safety features on their car just to pass the test. But since we are going off topic i probably would change the air freshner.

Nissan doctor

brianc42 wrote: »

It will be put back in when the test is done.And it does not harm the engine in any way. Christ you are some tulip.

Your right, sure air filters are just a money making scam dreamed up by the engine manufacturers.

Can you post how removing the air filter on an electronically controlled fuel injected car will bring down the OP's CO and HC emissions?

brianc42

Nissan doctor wrote: »

When i did it a few years back i was informed by a person who worked for the NCT Center that their machine measures the emissions in particle per million . That's ppm. He told me that if there was no filter on the car that more air would go through the engine and dilute the count from the machine. I tried it with my 2004 almera and it worked.


Your right, sure air filters are just a money making scam dreamed up by the engine manufacturers.

Can you post how removing the air filter on an electronically controlled fuel injected car will bring down the OP's CO and HC emissions?

1

2ndcoming

Am I not right in thinking Mazda parts are seriously expensive? Assuming ye're talking about genuine new parts it would definitely be worth checking out exactly how much the repairs are going to cost. If it's anything over 500 it's hard to see how it would be an economical repair, a 323 like that even with a year's test would be hard pressed to raise anything more than about 750, say 1000 max assuming it's in particularly good nick otherwise.

brianc42

2ndcoming wrote: »

Am I not right in thinking Mazda parts are seriously expensive? Assuming ye're talking about genuine new parts it would definitely be worth checking out exactly how much the repairs are going to cost. If it's anything over 500 it's hard to see how it would be an economical repair, a 323 like that even with a year's test would be hard pressed to raise anything more than about 750, say 1000 max assuming it's in particularly good nick otherwise.

Try ebay and micksgarage.they can give you a good estimate on how much your parts will cost. Try your local scrap yard for parts too. But your right to put a cap on your spend.