Colombia

clsmooth

Planning to visit for Colombia for about 4/5 weeks for April onwards. Would like to see Medellin, La Ciudad Perdida, Cartagena and also Bogota. Id plan to stay in Bogota for about a week as I have a friend there and La Ciudad Perdida trek takes about 6 days. Im looking for any tips for hostels, and transport and how to organise the trip as to which places I go to first etc I'll be travelling alone so lively hostels are preferred. I wouldnt mind visiting another country for a week if it's easy to do so. All advice appreciated.

Meathlass

Presume you're flying in and out of Bogota? It's a fairly straight run from Bogota to Medellin (stayed in a hostel, think it was called The Black Sheep, out in the suburbs but great craic) and then on to Cartagena.

There I would definitely spend a few days on Playa Blanca, its a small beach, cut off from the surrounding countryside, no electricity, just a small fishing village. I stayed in Wittenberg hostel - very basic. There were rooms but I slept outside in a hammock; falling asleep to the sounds of the waves and waking up to hens trying to get into the hammock. Freshly caught fish for food and mangos for snacks. Planned to stay 1 night and stayed for 4. Bring everything you need though, especially lots of books and drinks if that's your thing. Not much to do but swim, chat and chill out. I left my rucksack in the hostel in Cartagena.

I didn't make it to Cali but it gets good reports.

I'd recommend getting an up to date backpacker guide book and checking out the South America branch on Thorn Tree Lonely Planet website to give you an idea of distances and the good hostels at the moment.

clsmooth

Meathlass wrote: »

Presume you're flying in and out of Bogota? It's a fairly straight run from Bogota to Medellin (stayed in a hostel, think it was called The Black Sheep, out in the suburbs but great craic) and then on to Cartagena.

There I would definitely spend a few days on Playa Blanca, its a small beach, cut off from the surrounding countryside, no electricity, just a small fishing village. I stayed in Wittenberg hostel - very basic. There were rooms but I slept outside in a hammock; falling asleep to the sounds of the waves and waking up to hens trying to get into the hammock. Freshly caught fish for food and mangos for snacks. Planned to stay 1 night and stayed for 4. Bring everything you need though, especially lots of books and drinks if that's your thing. Not much to do but swim, chat and chill out. I left my rucksack in the hostel in Cartagena.

I didn't make it to Cali but it gets good reports.

I'd recommend getting an up to date backpacker guide book and checking out the South America branch on Thorn Tree Lonely Planet website to give you an idea of distances and the good hostels at the moment.

Yep I plan to fly in and out of Bogota. It's realistic to travel between all of these by coach? I know Bogota to Medellin is about 10hrs. Any surrounding countries like Venezuela worth checking for a few days or not really worth the travel? Playa Blanca sounds superb!

Meathlass

clsmooth wrote: »

Yep I plan to fly in and out of Bogota. It's realistic to travel between all of these by coach? I know Bogota to Medellin is about 10hrs. Any surrounding countries like Venezuela worth checking for a few days or not really worth the travel? Playa Blanca sounds superb!

You're going to spend a week with a friend and another week treking so with your remaining 3 weeks I would stay in Colombia. Imo there's very little close to the Colombian borders either in Ecuador or Venezuela that's worth going out of your way to see.

Yeah, it's bus travel all the way but the buses are comfortable but can be very cold (I bought a fleece blanket for them). When I was there (2006) there were numerous stops between these main cities for security checkpoints where everyone had to get off the bus and it was throughly searched and all passangers 'patted' down. Maybe the situation is improved though.

I'd aim to spend a week in Cartagena - there's plenty to do there including Playa Blanca and the huge fort in the town. There's also a National Park near Santa Marta (between Cartagena and Venezuelian border) that's supposed to be good. Think it might be called Parque Tayona.

An itininery might be to go north from Bogota to Medillin and Cartagena and then to return south via the coast and Cali.

Bring travel sickness tablets - the switchback roads in the moutains are not fun

clsmooth

Meathlass wrote: »

You're going to spend a week with a friend and another week treking so with your remaining 3 weeks I would stay in Colombia. Imo there's very little close to the Colombian borders either in Ecuador or Venezuela that's worth going out of your way to see.

Yeah, it's bus travel all the way but the buses are comfortable but can be very cold (I bought a fleece blanket for them). When I was there (2006) there were numerous stops between these main cities for security checkpoints where everyone had to get off the bus and it was throughly searched and all passangers 'patted' down. Maybe the situation is improved though.

I'd aim to spend a week in Cartagena - there's plenty to do there including Playa Blanca and the huge fort in the town. There's also a National Park near Santa Marta (between Cartagena and Venezuelian border) that's supposed to be good. Think it might be called Parque Tayona.

An itininery might be to go north from Bogota to Medillin and Cartagena and then to return south via the coast and Cali.

Bring travel sickness tablets - the switchback roads in the moutains are not fun

Excellent advice, thanks! I think I'll arrive in Bogota, maybe stay for 3 days, then onto Medellin and stay there for 5 days then onto Cartagena for 5 days, then onto Santa Marta for 5 days then La Ciudad Perdida for a week then maybe back onto Bogota for the remainder. I should maybe try and factor in Cali too whilst I'm travelling. Need to check the map and see what the best route to visit there would be I presume theres lots of other people travelling by their own so easy enough to find people to hit the bars with?

Flynn

I'd say from Bogota head straight to Cartagena (Do bogota on your way back before you fly out - get the traveling out of the way)

Cartagena is beautiful, you could easily spend a few days walking around checking out museums and crafts an surrounding beaches as Meathlass suggested. Be warned though its expensive there.. Prices are hiked up because of the Marina. From there you can get a bus to Santa Marta (which will be your base town for the Ciudad Perdida Trek ( 4 hours?) - you'll book it from there, leave your bags there and get picked up from whichever hostel you're staying at there.. There is a bit of craic to be had in Santa Marta too!

After the trek you could head to Tayrona national park. I didn't make it myself but beach wise it's meant to be some of the best coastline in South America. Diving/snorkeling is an option here too. I didn't make it to Medillin but friends did and reckon its a must do. Cali was nothing special, a nice city but nothing stood out. I wouldn't be putting it high up on my list. But from the looks of things you don't want to head south of Bogota anyway.

As for seeing another country. I'm not sure how it would work out price wise but if you changed your departing city to Quito (it just doesnt make sense to hike all the way back to bogota) .. you could head to ecuador for a bit...if you do, don't miss montañita - Great craic.
Sleep on the bus and call it a nights accommodation/day saved. They are like beds anyway.

Alternatively you could fly out of panama and do the Cartagena to Colón boat trip. This would be at a push though as it takes 5 days but it's definitely doable with a bit of re-aranging... And an epic trip!

Good luck with it

Flynn

Sorry just read your second post there and seems you have a route sorted!

Best of luck!

clsmooth

Flynn wrote: »

Sorry just read your second post there and seems you have a route sorted!

Best of luck!

Nah man, all advice appreciated! Was half thinking of getting in Venezuela or Ecuador but I reckon it might all be a bit too rushed in that time frame. Any suggestions for hostels or parts of Santa Marta/Cartagena to stay in yourself??

Tombo2001

Firstly, Colombia is a very big country so I really dont see any need for you to take in other countries also. There is plenty to see in Colombia.

Secondly, if you did want to take in another country, the perhaps Ecuador would make sense as afaik there is a much stronger Indigenous community in ecuador than in Colombia. However it would be too much backtracking to go from Bogota to Ecuador to Cartagena.

Thirdly, Colombia was a country where I found it was quite easy to get into the countryside.

For example I went to Tierradentro near Popoyan and did some great hikes in the mountains on my own around there. Popoyan is a nice place also.

Similarly, north of Bogota, I went to Barichara....lovely little town but also a good place to go on rambles through the countryside from.

In the north, Parque Nacional Tayrona was gorgeous, would definitely recommend it. The deal when I was there was that you show up with your hammock and sleeping bag and pitch it between two coconut trees, and paid a few euros a night for this.

Cant remember any Hostels that particularly stood out but am sure lonely planet will tell you where to go.

Flynn

clsmooth wrote: »

Nah man, all advice appreciated! Was half thinking of getting in Venezuela or Ecuador but I reckon it might all be a bit too rushed in that time frame. Any suggestions for hostels or parts of Santa Marta/Cartagena to stay in yourself??

Colombia doesn't really have the same Backpacker hostel scene as other countries in South America. ie. The Point & Loki. But anything you pick from the Lonely Planet will be sure to have other travelers knocking about looking for the same opportunities as yourself to meet people. In bogota we stayed at Platypus but i'm sure you could do better. Cartegena was just a place run by an old lady and there no other backpackers there.. Santa Marta was a big building on the main street can't remember the name but the rooms were private as opposed to dorms.. None of these places were your typical "backpackers" though bar Platypus.. maybe things have changed since i've been there.. I know medellín has some good ones but didn't make it there myself.

Id just get a current LP and go with that mate!

Tombo2001

One thing....I know you said April...

The Holy Week processions in Popoyan are a sight to behold....last week of March unfortunately.

clsmooth

Right guys, the plan at the moment is to go for 5weeks. I'm going to fly into Bogota and go straight to Medellin and spend a week there, then onto Cartagena for a week, will try and take in Playa Blanca and Mompos whilst there. After that will travel onto Santa Marta for another week then down to La Ciudad Perdida/Tayrona for another week. Finally I'll head down to Bogota for the last week. I'm thinking of trying internal flights between Bogota-Medellin, Medellin - Cartagena, and Santa Marta back down to Bogota depending on the cost and bus the rest of them. Any more tips or places to visit in these areas? Thanks for all the advice guys!

Flynn

clsmooth wrote: »

Right guys, the plan at the moment is to go for 5weeks. I'm going to fly into Bogota and go straight to Medellin and spend a week there, then onto Cartagena for a week, will try and take in Playa Blanca and Mompos whilst there. After that will travel onto Santa Marta for another week then down to La Ciudad Perdida/Tayrona for another week. Finally I'll head down to Bogota for the last week. I'm thinking of trying internal flights between Bogota-Medellin, Medellin - Cartagena, and Santa Marta back down to Bogota depending on the cost and bus the rest of them. Any more tips or places to visit in these areas? Thanks for all the advice guys!

Thats sounds like a good plan.. When in one place for a week it will give you plenty of time to explore surrounding areas as day trips. You'll love that trek its pretty special when you arrive there. Make sure to ask your guide for a tour of the "coca plantation" on your way up.. They might not bother if you dont ask and it would be cool to see. Also bring some cash with you.. i left mine in the hotel and couldnt buy a bottle of water on the first stop and also to tip the boy who carries all your stuff. Your guide will see you back to your hotel and you could tip him there but if you saw what the helpers are carrying for him up those steps you'd wish you had a tenner to throw him.

The Zipaquirá Cathedral would be a good to check out from Bogota too. Def worth a look.

Meathlass

clsmooth wrote: »

Right guys, the plan at the moment is to go for 5weeks. I'm going to fly into Bogota and go straight to Medellin and spend a week there, then onto Cartagena for a week, will try and take in Playa Blanca and Mompos whilst there. After that will travel onto Santa Marta for another week then down to La Ciudad Perdida/Tayrona for another week. Finally I'll head down to Bogota for the last week. I'm thinking of trying internal flights between Bogota-Medellin, Medellin - Cartagena, and Santa Marta back down to Bogota depending on the cost and bus the rest of them. Any more tips or places to visit in these areas? Thanks for all the advice guys!

I'm not sure a full week in Santa Marta is necessary - it's mostly used as a base for Ciudad Perdida and Tayrona.

If you can afford the internal flights it might be a good idea but it probably ties you into a schedule a bit more whereas with the bus you can just leave town any day you like.

Tombo2001

clsmooth wrote: »

Right guys, the plan at the moment is to go for 5weeks. I'm going to fly into Bogota and go straight to Medellin and spend a week there, then onto Cartagena for a week, will try and take in Playa Blanca and Mompos whilst there. After that will travel onto Santa Marta for another week then down to La Ciudad Perdida/Tayrona for another week. Finally I'll head down to Bogota for the last week. I'm thinking of trying internal flights between Bogota-Medellin, Medellin - Cartagena, and Santa Marta back down to Bogota depending on the cost and bus the rest of them. Any more tips or places to visit in these areas? Thanks for all the advice guys!

For me, that would be too much time spent in big cities. I would try to get into the countryside at some point.....

Overnight buses are a good way to travel, though I believe in and out of Medellin on the overnight buses can be ropey.....at least it was when I was there.

clsmooth

Tombo2001 wrote: »

For me, that would be too much time spent in big cities. I would try to get into the countryside at some point.....

Overnight buses are a good way to travel, though I believe in and out of Medellin on the overnight buses can be ropey.....at least it was when I was there.

I'm too sure what I'd do in the countryside as I'm going by myself I think the cities would be better in order to meet people. But im open to suggestions! Is there much to do in Santa Marta (ie for a week) or is it mainly used as a base for La Ciudad Perdida? Also with regards to my suitcase, does it tend to be safe to leave it in the hostels in general and during my trip to La Ciudad Perdida, where can I leave it?

Pretty much all set now, got the flights booked

shanesheridan

you MUST go to Salento (the coffee region) and stay at La Serena hostel (best hostel in SA):D

Tombo2001

clsmooth wrote: »

I'm too sure what I'd do in the countryside as I'm going by myself I think the cities would be better in order to meet people. But im open to suggestions! Is there much to do in Santa Marta (ie for a week) or is it mainly used as a base for La Ciudad Perdida? Also with regards to my suitcase, does it tend to be safe to leave it in the hostels in general and during my trip to La Ciudad Perdida, where can I leave it?

Pretty much all set now, got the flights booked

I was by myself in Colombia also.

In the countryside, basically you can go hiking and see the countryside......or maybe hire a bike and see it that way.

If thats your thing.

On your route, Barichara is a place I'd recommend. A lovely little village. When I say the country, I dont mean a farm.....I mean more small villages where there is a different vibe, and you can get out into the countryside and see how people farm and so on.

If someone was coming to Ireland would you recommend they only see Dublin, Cork and Belfast? Or would you tell them to take in Dingle and Clifden too?

I was only in Santa Marta for a day on the way to Tayrona, my impression is it was nice enough but I really didnt see. Didnt go to Ciudad Perdida. Spent a week in Tayrona.

The towns/ places I was in properly were (in order) Popoyan, San Agustin, Tierradentro, Bogota, Barichara, Tayrona, Cartagena.

clsmooth

shanesheridan wrote: »

you MUST go to Salento (the coffee region) and stay at La Serena hostel (best hostel in SA):D

Salento is near to Medellin? How long would you stay there for and what types of things is there to do?

shanesheridan

The town is really pretty. Colourful doorways and neat traditional restaurants. The locals have a cowboy like nature about them. The region has tones of trails, most famously the Valle de Corcoca (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocora_valley)
Its home to the worlds tallest palm trees. Of course there's the coffee plantations where you can volunteer for a day or two, or just do an interesting tour (i dont drink coffee). You can eat at the fantastic Speak easy, for great western/international food and then play Tejo - drinking, throwing metal weights and gun-powder !!! (very funny)

dealhunter1985

One thing that wasnt touched on in this thread ... i'd like to ask about safety in Colombia. I am looking at travelling the east cost of the U.S and taking a flight from Florida to Bogota .
And then i was gonna work my way from Bogota downwards. Just curious about safety in Colombia though as anyone i mentioned it too seemed a little surprised of my intention to go there...

clsmooth

dealhunter1985 wrote: »

One thing that wasnt touched on in this thread ... i'd like to ask about safety in Colombia. I am looking at travelling the east cost of the U.S and taking a flight from Florida to Bogota .
And then i was gonna work my way from Bogota downwards. Just curious about safety in Colombia though as anyone i mentioned it too seemed a little surprised of my intention to go there...

I'm set to head off tomorrow. I'd expect its similar to other Latin American countries in the sense that you should be ok as long as you don't walk around with an iPhone in your hand in flashy clothes and stick to the better parts of town, obviously there's no go areas in every city.

dealhunter1985

clsmooth wrote: »

I'm set to head off tomorrow. I'd expect its similar to other Latin American countries in the sense that you should be ok as long as you don't walk around with an iPhone in your hand in flashy clothes and stick to the better parts of town, obviously there's no go areas in every city.

ok thanks for the input.
Best of luck with your trip!

token101

Colombia is phenomenal. I was by myself too, I met plenty of people and had the best craic ever in the place.

Meathlass wrote: »

I didn't make it to Cali but it gets good reports.

I didn't like Cali. I didn't like the vibe of the city, just generally disliked the place. It's constantly traffic choked and was one if the very few places in South America where I felt edgy walking around alone. No craic or decent bars in the place if you don't like salsa. All the hostels are miles out of town too and it is VERY hilly! I would personally say avoid and maybe go straight to Popayan if you're going south.

Everywhere else in Colombia was great though. Bogota's a grand spot, Cranky Croc's a nice hostel too, close to the main sites. Very near to the Bogota Beer Company, savage little microbrewery. Make sure you do the cable car in Medellin, the one that goes over the barrios is Santo Domingo I think, it's amazing to see the contrast in the place. And Cartagena is some place if you want party hostels! I'd recommend El Viajero, great spot, but there's parties in another one as well, I think it's called Blue Hostel. It's also an amazing place to walk around, make sure you get some Medellin rum and go to the castle wall for the sunset, pretty cool. Just a great spot. One thing about Cartagena, police do random searches, so if you're going to get up to anything make sure you don't carry anywhere beyond the hostel door. And Salento could probably be a whole other post it's that good.