MTB- can it be used for long-distance Road cycling?

Wheeker

New to this forum & irregular cyclist- so please be gentle

I have a rarely-used Kona Hahanna MTB which I bought for €500 back in 2005, still in great condition. I have committed to do a Charity Cycle in Feb (220km over 2 days :eek:). Everyone else (7 others) will be cycling on Road Bikes. I was hoping that I could use my MTB for the charity cycle, but having been out a few times on it, I find it a struggle to keep up with the Road bikes, though maybe this is due to my level of fitness?! I thought that perhaps I could speed up my MTB for Road use by changing the wheels & putting on some clip pedals- is this realistic

Am I better just going for broke (literally) & buying a new Road bike? Would any shops take my Kona as a trade-in? Any recommended shops in Dublin? Any advice appreciated.

HivemindXX

I just had a quick look to verify that it's a hard tail, so it's not all that much different to using a hybrid which lots of people do at these events.

Replacing the tyres (you said wheels, but changing just the tyres should be ok) will make a bigger difference than you might think. On flat tarmac I am 5-10kph slower on my bobbly tyred hard tail MTB than on my hybrid with slicks. They both have front forks and the MTB is a hell of a lot lighter. I've done plenty of 100k+ cyles on the hybrid, although never back to back on two consecutive days.

You should make a concious effort to stretch your arms and flex your back every now and again, you can find yourself staying in exactly the same pose for hours if you are not careful (which tends not to happen on drop bars).

When I do sportives though I am not overly concerned with staying with a group and there is a huge range abilities across all the participants so I can generally keep up with someone. Your event is small and the plan might be for everyone to keep in a tight group. If they go at a good pace you may not be able to keep up, partially because on long gentle descents they might be able to sustain 40-50kph in a tight group and you may not be able to spin that fast at all. With regard to keeping up your best course of action might be to figure out what sort of pace they intend to keep and it that's 10kph or less faster than you can do on the MTB then get slick tyres and see how it goes.

Lumen

Roadies don't generally like riding in groups with people on MTBs, because the wide bars make it difficult to ride safely in a tight group.

You will be slower (as you've discovered) but that can be helped by fitting skinny high pressure tyres.

lennymc

you could put on road specific tyres, which would make it easier, but realistically i think you will find it harder to do the cycle on an mtb compared to the road bike. Some shops might take it as a trade in. Would getting a lend of a bike be a possibility rather than buying something you might only use once.

smacl

Given you say that you've rarely used your MTB and don't have another bike, that implies you do very little cycling and are already at a disadvantage speed wise when compared to the others. I'm guessing you don't need the additional disadvantage of an unsuitable bike, so you really need to beg, borrow or steal something more suitable.

Maybe ask one of your more bike fit friends to swap bikes for the event as 'their personal challenge'

Colonialboy

How far off the pace of the road bikes are you currently?
If your fitter than the others but on inferior equipement you might have some chance to stay with them, just hang on the back for climbs and let your bikes extra weight and momentum work for you on the descents.
You might not be able to do much 'pulls' on the front as long as the people you cycle with are okay with that.

Do you have slick road tyres on the bike ? If not it might be worth getting a pair fitted a small investment that might be enough to save you gettting a road bike, it will reduce your suction to the road considerably and might be enough to keep you tagged on the back of the bunch. Slick tyres and two new wheels, change the front fork dump the suspension would easily add 3-4mph to your current pace.

Tonyandthewhale

It's quite possible to use a mountain bike for long distance spins, on more than one occasion I've used my fully rigid mountain bike (with slick tyres and butterfly bars) to chalk up 500km or more over the course of a weekend. The problem, as has been discussed, is keeping up.

A rigid fork, clipless pedals, front tyres, butterfly bars (or even just the addition of bar-ends if you don't already have them) will all make your bike faster and more comfortable for long distance riding but you'll still be at a disadvantage compared to your compatriots on road bikes who'll have lighter bikes, a more aerodynamic position (arguably) more road-suitable gearing and lower rolling resistance.

Wheeker

Many thanks for the quick replies guys. I should have said that I already have slick Road Tyres fitted to my MTB. I suppose I thought that my current wheels are obviously a lot thicker than Road bike wheels, so maybe changing them would increase my speed? Would clip pedals help also? Hadn't thought of changing the forks. Good to know that I am not totally crazy to even think about converting my MTB for the Charity Cycle.

I have looked into renting a Road Bike for the Charity Cycle but I am finding it difficult as Feb seems to be "out of season" for rental shops & they have no stock. Any suggestions in Dublin?

feck sake lads

seriously get a lend of a road bike for the event, mountain bike are not made for speed much longer wheel base different angles i would imagine , the pedals will just keep you locked in no more than that great for climbing as you can pull up on the pedal but not much more.

would your friends not be willing to slow down to your pace surly there must be one in the group thats willing to ride with you.:(

Lumen

Wheeker wrote: »

I suppose I thought that my current wheels are obviously a lot thicker than Road bike wheels, so maybe changing them would increase my speed? Would clip pedals help also?

Narrow rims will make no difference. Clipless pedals will feel nicer but won't necessarily make you any faster.

The suspension and (un)aerodynamic position and likely what's slowing you down, equipment wise. If you're going to put a rigid fork on it, make sure it's suspension-corrected or you'll mess with the steering geometry.

doozerie

In addition to the suggestions to use slick tyres (I use 1.3" slicks but I've seen 1.1" ones too) and bar-ends, you could also consider changing the cassette to a closer ratio one. Typically an MTB cassette covers a wide range of gearing with substantial jumps between neighbouring gears, and that will make your life more difficult when trying to match and maintain the pace of those around you on road bikes. You might need to change the chain too, if you go this route, partly due to the old chain possibly been worn and partly because the new cassette won't require the length of the existing chain so a shorter new chain avoids a chain with a lot of slack bouncing around while you ride. If you have a triple chainset then you could even change that for a double to further tailor your gearing, but the cost really starts to build up at that stage.

Just a thought, but in terms of wheels, if your bike has disc brakes then you might be able to fit 29er wheels. Someone else is probably better placed to say whether that would help noticeably though, I've never tried switching to 29er wheels on an MTB. And any gains it might offer might not justify the expense either.

Also, you could possibly tweak the fit of the bike to make it better for on-road riding, by lowering the bars a little (and/or using a longer stem for greater reach), and perhaps even using narrower handlebars, but obviously you don't want to create something that is more aerodynamic but too uncomfortable to ride for an extended length of time - you'd need time to adapt to the new position in advance of the event.

Colonialboy

All great suggestions.
If moneys tight and you dont want the expense of a new road bike, then buying new wheels and new chainrings just for this event is a bit of wasted money if as you say you havent used the bike much in 5 years.
Im a cheapskate .. get some bar ends fitted, they give you a bit of extra leverage and get some straps fo your pedals if you dont already have them and a good cycling shoe, doesnt have to be spd/look just something solid, also tweak the riding position. See how that goes for your next spin.

Could you set off a bit earlier than your mates on the charity cycle, people will get spread out, some might even puncture, you will surely find someone at your pace .

And the best idea is to lose weight and train really well for the event again this will help you keep in touch and doesnt cost anything :-)
What ever you do just make sure you do the event dont be put off if you dont have a nice shiny road bike.

Tonyandthewhale

Colonialboy wrote: »

get some straps fo your pedals if you dont already have them and a good cycling shoe, doesnt have to be spd/look just something solid

What do you mean cycling shoe and strap? Surely a cycling shoe implies a clipless road or mountain bike pedal and cleats?

Zorba

Definitely get a racer for the event. I use a ladies mountain bike for commuting about a 46k round trip during the week. On sundays i go out on my good bike and it feels like a rocket after horsing the mountain bike all week. The mountain bike has 1.3 slick tires on it which has made it a good bit faster but it still feels like half the effort i put in is lost somewhere between the pedals and the wheels whereas the racer feels like all the power goes straight to the wheels.

I'll be doing a few sportives over the year like last year and to be honest if i had to do them on the mountain bike i wouldn't do them, there would be no enjoyment in them at all, would just feel like pushing all day and getting feck all in return.

Having said that i do have a soft spot for "Betsy"

Colonialboy

Tonyandthewhale wrote: »

What do you mean cycling shoe and strap? Surely a cycling shoe implies a clipless road or mountain bike pedal and cleats?

Not neccessarily, theres an existing market for cycling shoes that also can be used as a leisure shoes. Ive two pairs in the shed.

All the major road bike shoe manufacturers do a bike shoe that doesnt have to be clipped in. Some are just streamlined flat hard sole meant just for cycling otheres might have SPD insert but comes with a plate which covers it. Allows you to walk around in relative comfort after cycles. They are a vey rigid shoe, perfect if you just have straps and no cleats.
I also use mine in the gym, I find them nice and solid put the plate on to cover the spd , then when Im going on the bike remove the plate and Ive spds.

doozerie

Not to mention the fact that, before clipless pedals, shoes still had cleats but each one was basically a lump of plastic with a slot cut out of it. The slot fitted over the rear of the pedal cage (back when pedals had cages) so that your foot wouldn't slide forward or back on the pedal, and you tightened the toe strap to keep your foot from lifting off the pedal. The result was a very securely held (and slightly squashed, in my case anyway) foot, which was great, but if you had to stop in an emergency the chances of being able to reach down a hand to loosen a toe strap to allow you to detach your shoe from the pedal were very slim, which wasn't so great.

But as for shoes in general, having your feet attached to the pedals will be a help. It gives you greater control of the bike and allows you to pull up on the upstroke - it's more efficient and therefore allows you to conserve energy and that counts for a lot when you are spending a long time on the bike. Toeclips and straps work too but they are not as comfortable as clipless pedals. Having "proper" cycling shoes also means that you'll be wearing shoes with stiff soles, which is a much better option than wearing something generic like runners - after a few hours on a bike, shoes with soft soles may leave your feet feeling sore from the pressure of the pedals (depending on the design and size of the pedals).

Tayto2000

Ive got a 2003 Kona Hahanna set up for road use, it's setup for road use with smooth tires and a firm suspension fork (Good for rough surfaces!). I mainly use it for commuting but I've also used it for touring, it's a great bike but there's no way I'd be able to keep up with road bikes. Some friends and I did a 240km tour of wales over three days last summer, mtbs can be great for the hills and a relaxed riding position if they're setup right.

I have a road bike for sportives, but the group I was touring with with were all casual cyclists and on similar bikes so I took the mtb. If the group you are riding with are all going to be on road bikes, realistically, you do too I think. You'll either get dropped and stranded or be slowing the group right down and annoying people.

If there's a mix or it's casual, an mtb could work fine. There's always a few mtbs on the Wicklow 200, very doable and good on the hills. It's really a judgement call for you I guess.

Good luck and enjoy the ride whatever you decide!

JayConlon91

hi guys im doing the same type of thing..iv recently bought a 2013 specialized hardrock disc brake bt ive put continental sport contact tyres on and the fork will be locked so will this greatly improve my speed or just barely?? havent got to cycle it yet ha..

at1withmyself

JayConlon91 wrote: »

hi guys im doing the same type of thing..iv recently bought a 2013 specialized hardrock disc brake bt ive put continental sport contact tyres on and the fork will be locked so will this greatly improve my speed or just barely?? havent got to cycle it yet ha..

Knock about a kilo weight from it with a rigid fork for 45 Euro:

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/160719621102?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Have one of these on my mountain bike along with slicks which I use for commuting

JayConlon91

makes a big difference ye?? looks good and the price dont seem to bad either

at1withmyself

JayConlon91 wrote: »

makes a big difference ye?? looks good and the price dont seem to bad either

Ya I think so, bike feels much better as well on the road. I have the white version of the Fork for about 3 years now with over 12,000 km on it and no issues. Would definitely recommend one if you planning on doing a lot of cycling on the road.

JayConlon91

i think i may invest in one so if they seem to do the job..ye i plan on doin a few charity cycles and commuting on it yano urself

ghogie91

JayConlon91 wrote: »

i think i may invest in one so if they seem to do the job..ye i plan on doin a few charity cycles and commuting on it yano urself

Buy a road bike and you might have the pleasure of tasting my wheel spray once ina while

ghogie91

In relation to OP

I recently put slicks on my giant revel hardtail and I done a 35km cyxlw this morning! The slicks make a huge difference!

Get something with no suspension and a stiff frame and you will be grand! Get clipped in too!!

JayConlon91

ghogie u are a muppet and that revel is muck

west cork lad

I was in the same boat and no matter what I could not match the road bikes. I was spending a fortune on making it into a road bike that still could not compete. I wad so sick of it I bought a cheap entry level road bike for €400 (which I still can not afford) in halfords. I think there is a huge difference but that may be new bike syndrome.

Zorba

From going over the same roads on a mtb and roadbike in roughly the same conditions i know for a fact the mtb is easily 3-4km/hr slower even with road tires on it.

JayConlon91

well my slicked mtb is going to have to do for now cuz im in no way able to afford a road bike yet ha

Zorba

JayConlon91 wrote: »

well my slicked mtb is going to have to do for now cuz im in no way able to afford a road bike yet ha

I'm in the same club

JayConlon91

oh its horrible aint it ah we will just have to save up for like 2 years haha

seamus

You have two big enemies on an MTB - friction and wind resistance.

Friction can be reduced as you've found by sticking on slick tyres. I was running 1.2" Conti Sport Contacts, which were practically 30mm road tyres. Fitted 1.5" Schwalbe marathons over the weekend, and they don't feel much different. A little heavier, meaning they're slower to get started, but they definitely roll better once you're up to speed. So don't feel like you have to go for the narrowest, slickest tyres you can find. Anything 1.5" or less with a road-specific tread will work just fine on the MTB.

Wind resistance is in my experience the bigger killer. On the MTB, it catches you on two fronts - you have wide bars, so your arms are splayed out like a sail, and the geometry is more upright so the wind catches your torso more. You can cheaply overcome this by replacing your bars and/or stem. Replace your bars with narrow hipster-like bars, 500mm or less. Flip your stem upside down to drop your upper body position.
You can also stick drop bars on the MTB (which I've done), but that's relatively expensive depending on what shifter/brake lever combo you have to go with. Simply putting on narrower bars is much cheaper. You can also cut down your existing bars if you're not too precious about them. Put on some bar ends to give yourself different hand positions for longer rides.

Briando

Sell the MTB and buy a cheap road bike. You will enjoy the experience much more without always fighting with your MTB over 220km.

Zorba

JayConlon91 wrote: »

oh its horrible aint it ah we will just have to save up for like 2 years haha

Well hoping to do the bike to work by the year end but have a feeling some brown envelopes will get in the way it that so yeah might be 2 yrs

seamus wrote: »

You have two big enemies on an MTB - friction and wind resistance.

Friction can be reduced as you've found by sticking on slick tyres. I was running 1.2" Conti Sport Contacts, which were practically 30mm road tyres. Fitted 1.5" Schwalbe marathons over the weekend, and they don't feel much different. A little heavier, meaning they're slower to get started, but they definitely roll better once you're up to speed. So don't feel like you have to go for the narrowest, slickest tyres you can find. Anything 1.5" or less with a road-specific tread will work just fine on the MTB.

Yes i switched from the Conti tyres to the Marathons last week and though the Marathons are heavier they don't seem much slower, maybe a bit harder on hills but not a lot, i got them more for the puncture resistance than anything. One thing i did find with them though is they are a lot gripper than the Contis and inspire more confidence while cornering.

seamus wrote: »

Wind resistance is in my experience the bigger killer. On the MTB, it catches you on two fronts - you have wide bars, so your arms are splayed out like a sail, and the geometry is more upright so the wind catches your torso more. You can cheaply overcome this by replacing your bars and/or stem. Replace your bars with narrow hipster-like bars, 500mm or less. Flip your stem upside down to drop your upper body position.

I also cut down the bars and flipped them stem on the bike but still wish the bars were a bit lower and shorter still it has made a big difference and as u said it's a cheap fix.

seamus

Zorba wrote: »

One thing i did find with them though is they are a lot gripper than the Contis and inspire more confidence while cornering.

Agreed, within the first 200m riding on the Marathons this morning I was cornering harder than I ever dared on the Contis.

I actually bought them because they're on the Dublin Bikes. In the snow of 2010 I was hammering through the streets on those bikes and had no issues with snow, whereas the merest sniff of ice and the Contis are terrifying to ride on.

Zorba

seamus wrote: »

Agreed, within the first 200m riding on the Marathons this morning I was cornering harder than I ever dared on the Contis.

I actually bought them because they're on the Dublin Bikes. In the snow of 2010 I was hammering through the streets on those bikes and had no issues with snow, whereas the merest sniff of ice and the Contis are terrifying to ride on.

Yeah was one frosty morning in December and them Contis went from under me. ended up sliding along for 5 odd mtrs would definitely trust the Marathons more but still a bit nervous about ice

JayConlon91

ye i got my mtb on the cycle to work scheme so i can do that for another 4 years ha

Wheeker

OP here. Sorry guys, I was about to post another cycling thread when I realised I had never come back to this thread to say thanks for all of the advice & let you know the option I finally took

Anyhow, I finally concluded I would indeed be best to buy a new Road bike on the Cycle to Work scheme. The scheme is such a good opportunity (52% discount!) it just seemed to good to ignore.

So I ended up buying a Boardman Race bike from Halfords. Now I know there's probably quite a few who would turn their noses up at buying a bike from Halfords, but in the end the Boardman (exclusive to Halfords) does have great spec for the price, I also got an additional 20% discount using my Axa-Plus card & they also had a 3 for 2 accessories sale. Although I would love to have given my business to a local independent shop, it all added up to a fantastic deal - again too, good to ignore

On the down-side, as you might expect, the service was not up-to-scratch. The Manager certainly talked a great game, but the bike was just not built/set-up correctly & they even forgot a bracket for the rear mudguard (even told me it wasn't meant to have one!). I ended-up getting my, then 4-week old, bike serviced by a more reputable shop for peace of mind. :mad:

So I did my charity cycle at the end of Feb (220km) & I was so glad I had bought the road bike, meant I at least had a fighting chance of keeping-up with the others. I must admit I found it a struggle at times, but it was also very rewarding to complete.

Thanks again for all of the great advice guys- much appreciated.

Tayto2000

Congratulations on completing the cycle, fair play!

There's some decent spec bikes showing up in Halfrauds these days (They're the ones that seem to be permanently sold out I think!) but I think you did the right thing getting it setup and serviced alsewhere, especially with a long trip ahead of you. Nothing like a mechanical failure out in the middle of nowhere!

Hope you're not getting rid of the Kona, they're a great bike... I'll be taking mine on a 300km round trip in a few weeks.