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Resetting EML

  • 07-12-2012 8:43pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭


    This light has come on recently and I got a garage to have a look to check what the code was.They said it was the lambda, the one before the cat.Anyway, they switched off the light and said it will probably need changing.Since then it didn't come on, until yesterday.I am thinking that if the sensor was faulty, would it not have come on fairly soon after being reset?

    The only reason I think it came on this time was I was checking a leak on the rocker cover and I had to move the sensor connector plug bracket to it and maybe I disturbed it.Maybe that's the fault all along instead of the sensor itself.I removed it and connected it back a few times just in case of a duff connection.

    Now my question is (sorry for a long winded run up:)) is If I disconnect the battery but have a power pack connected through the cigarette lighter, can this reset the light without loosing the radio?.It may come back on, but I would just like to see if it would work.

    I see there is a Engine management relay and 2 fuses? 3Amp and 15 Amp? that I removed for a while but it didn't turn off the light.


    Car is 1.4 fiesta petrol with the Siemens sim22 management system.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Removing power from the ECU can reset the EML if the fault is intermittent but won't if its permanent.

    Do you know what the exact code was? There are several codes relating to the lambda's that can indicate various problems which may or may not be the lambda its self.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    Afraid not, I dont know what the exact code was.I understand yeah, it could well have come back anyway, and might have to change it but I don't want to disconnect the batt and have two issues, light still on and no radio:(.Nor do I want to change a part to find that it was just a bad connector.I would just love to check with the power pack, thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    There are plenty of places online to get your radio code. In fact, if you pull the radio and pm me the code, i have a programme to generate the code, assuming its an original ford head unit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 552 ✭✭✭enumbers


    leaving a power supply in the cigarette lighter defeats the purpose of disconnecting the battery as the car will not be fully powered down. Even if you do disconnect the power it may or may not reset the light. Is there not somewhere local that will read the code and then you fix the problem permanently


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 383 ✭✭Waterson


    The light probably didn't come back on straight away because the ECU needs to go through a few ignition cycles before it flags the code and illuminates the light. The power pack to the cig lighter wont work AFAIK.
    Ideally get you mechanic to tell you the code and then you could have the problem resolved, either post it up here and we can advise further...you will be surprised the number of lambda/emissions codes that do not require the sensor be replaced, and instead can be resolved with a plug of gungum in the exhaust or a cheap replacement breather hose...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    Thanks, no I didn't get the code, the garage just said a code for the oxygen sensor before the cat was showing when they checked the code.The only suspicion I have about it being the sensor itself is that while doing something else on the car, I may have touched the connector (not the sensor) going to it and afterwards the light was on again but was wondering if there is a bad connector.I did pull it apart and the pins look ok, but that might still not tell me much.

    I would hate to put in a new sensor to later find out it was just a bad connector.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    jimmyw wrote: »
    Thanks, no I didn't get the code, the garage just said a code for the oxygen sensor before the cat was showing when they checked the code.The only suspicion I have about it being the sensor itself is that while doing something else on the car, I may have touched the connector (not the sensor) going to it and afterwards the light was on again but was wondering if there is a bad connector.I did pull it apart and the pins look ok, but that might still not tell me much.

    I would hate to put in a new sensor to later find out it was just a bad connector.


    I wouldn't consider a new sensor until you've had the problem properly diagnosed rather then simply reading a fault code. There could be a problem with the sensor voltage, the heating mechanism, the wiring to the sensor, the ECU control or the sensor reading out of range due to the a running issue with the engine.


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