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Removing toilet

  • 03-12-2012 11:58am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭


    General scenario:Removing the downstairs toilet to make the room into a utility. Washer and dryer already in there stacked so going to de-stack, counter top over and some shelves etc. Leaving the sink in there.

    Question: How to I blank off the water supply that normally goes to the cistern?

    Pic attached showing the vertical pipe coming from the ground that goes to the cistern and the pipe branching off to the right goes to the washing machine. Should I cap the vertical pipe at the very top where it enters the cistern (which will be removed) or blank at the t-junction in the pic? What do I use to blank it?

    I'm generally a good DIYer but have never done anything with plumbing before so thought I better ask so I don't mess it up.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,791 ✭✭✭LIFFY FISHING


    neddynasty wrote: »
    General scenario:Removing the downstairs toilet to make the room into a utility. Washer and dryer already in there stacked so going to de-stack, counter top over and some shelves etc. Leaving the sink in there.

    Question: How to I blank off the water supply that normally goes to the cistern?

    Pic attached showing the vertical pipe coming from the ground that goes to the cistern and the pipe branching off to the right goes to the washing machine. Should I cap the vertical pipe at the very top where it enters the cistern (which will be removed) or blank at the t-junction in the pic? What do I use to blank it?

    I'm generally a good DIYer but have never done anything with plumbing before so thought I better ask so I don't mess it up.

    Thanks.

    When you go into your plumbing shop ask for a
    1/2" 372, that is the referance number for the blank cap for your tee piece. It will blank off the outlet side of your 1/2" tee piece, thats the neatest way of doing it :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    Thanks LF. Was thinking that's what I needed to use but wanted to be sure. That'll look nice and neat too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Dont forget to get the cap for the 4" pipe. Silicone it on for a good seal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    Dont forget to get the cap for the 4" pipe. Silicone it on for a good seal.

    Thanks Joey. I have that. As you said was going to silicone it down. If it ends up below floor level I might have a thin layer of cement over it too. Will see how it works out first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 496 ✭✭bette


    COstraight.jpgS23M_16.jpgadhesive-pvc-glue_s.jpg

    That would be the neatest.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    Removed the cistern successfully. No leaks so far. Now I've hit another problem.

    Removed the toilet and trying to fit the 4" access plug. It's one of one black ones with the screw cap on top. The bloody thing just won't fit!! I've tried roaring at it but that only made the situation worse with the wife.

    Any tips on how to make it fit? Looks like it's the same size as the pipe and I can't get it all in to the pipe at once to be able to push it down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,791 ✭✭✭LIFFY FISHING


    neddynasty wrote: »
    Removed the cistern successfully. No leaks so far. Now I've hit another problem.

    Removed the toilet and trying to fit the 4" access plug. It's one of one black ones with the screw cap on top. The bloody thing just won't fit!! I've tried roaring at it but that only made the situation worse with the wife.

    Any tips on how to make it fit? Looks like it's the same size as the pipe and I can't get it all in to the pipe at once to be able to push it down.

    Put a picture up of the fitting you bought


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    Put a picture up of the fitting you bought

    Pic attached. This is driving me nuts!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    I think the problem might be that the soil pipe isn't cut straight and when trying to push the cap down it warps slightly and gets caught. Not sure if I want to cut it any lower.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,791 ✭✭✭LIFFY FISHING


    Looking at your picture you seem to have a 3 1/2" earthenware pipe, if so you will need to get a drain test plug in your plumbing stockists say a 3" one and when you tighten it uo it will expand to the diameter of the pipe.
    The old way of closing it was pack a plastic bag with lots of other plastic bags, make shure its tight in the pipe be sure it doesent fall through cause this could block your sewer pipe and put sand and cement over it .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    Looking at your picture you seem to have a 3 1/2" earthenware pipe, if so you will need to get a drain test plug in your plumbing stockists say a 3" one and when you tighten it uo it will expand to the diameter of the pipe.
    The old way of closing it was pack a plastic bag with lots of other plastic bags, make shure its tight in the pipe be sure it doesent fall through cause this could block your sewer pipe and put sand and cement over it .

    It's definitely 4" plastic pipe in there. The house is only 6 years old so don't think they were using clay pipes back then. It's not cut square so i think that's the problem. It was fairly hacked by the builder. There's a dip on one side of about 3/4" and it's getting caught there when trying to push it in. I'm going to try to cut it evenly and square with a dremel and see if it'll go in then. If not I'll have to go down the route of tiling it over.

    Thanks for all the input so far.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,964 ✭✭✭gifted


    neddynasty wrote: »
    It's definitely 4" plastic pipe in there. The house is only 6 years old so don't think they were using clay pipes back then. It's not cut square so i think that's the problem. It was fairly hacked by the builder. There's a dip on one side of about 3/4" and it's getting caught there when trying to push it in. I'm going to try to cut it evenly and square with a dremel and see if it'll go in then. If not I'll have to go down the route of tiling it over.

    Thanks for all the input so far.

    the cap you have is the same diameter as the 4" pipe in the ground, it won't fit into it no matter what you do. That cap will fit into a 4" collar or fitting. Go down to a plumbing shop and get a push in 4" cap for the pipe, widely available in these shops


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Go back and buy a 4"! rubber bung the lads in plumbing should know what your talking about. It will disfigure to take the shape.

    Just dont cut out the hole.

    waste_reducer_4_125_150.600.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭neddynasty


    Joey & Gifted, thanks for the tips. Have bought 1 of each and will try fitting tonight. The rubber will definitely fit anyway. Fingers crossed for the blanking cap. It does look a little smaller which is good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    yes its a rubber bung u need, that first fitting u bought fits into end of pipe with a ring on it http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/naumoid/naumoid1012/naumoid101200019/8370597-grey-pvc-sewer-pipes-on-white-background.jpg


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