Insulating steel sided workshop

TomOnBoard

Can anyone suggest the best type of insulation for the walls of a steel- sided workshop to give me the equivalent of about 2-3 inches of rockwool (which I don't want to use btw as it will just get wet from condensation on the inside of the shed. Cost is a huge factor.

I will be putting a small wood stove in to make the heat that I want to keep in the workshop.

TomOnBoard

TomOnBoard wrote: »

Can anyone suggest the best type of insulation for the walls of a steel- sided workshop to give me the equivalent of about 2-3 inches of rockwool (which I don't want to use btw as it will just get wet from condensation on the inside of the shed. Cost is a huge factor.

I will be putting a small wood stove in to make the heat that I want to keep in the workshop.

Anyone?

TomOnBoard

76 people viewed, and no opinions? Ah, come on lads 'n ladies, there must be someone who can help me..

muffler

i dont know about others but quite simply I dont know of how you would best do this.

BryanF

make the crinkly tin a rain screen cladding, build an insulated stud frame, sealed osb to both sides, with this becoming the new insulated envolpe of the workshop, leave a 2inch gap between stud wall and cladding, venting tin top and bottom

rodzer

I made a shed recently using a single skin metal roof. To stop it "weeping", I ran chicken wire across the timbers and spread felt across it. Then fixed the metal sheets on top.
I basically separated the cold metal from the inside dry space.
Can you create a similar barrier for the walls and roof of your metal workshop?
Then buy sheets of RIGID (t. & g.) insulation and run them around the complete perimeter. The insulation won't absorb moisture.
You would still need some means of ventilation as your workshop is a "habitable" room.

TomOnBoard

rodzer wrote: »

I made a shed recently using a single skin metal roof. To stop it "weeping", I ran chicken wire across the timbers and spread felt across it. Then fixed the metal sheets on top.
I basically separated the cold metal from the inside dry space.
Can you create a similar barrier for the walls and roof of your metal workshop?
Then buy sheets of RIGID (t. & g.) insulation and run them around the complete perimeter. The insulation won't absorb moisture.
You would still need some means of ventilation as your workshop is a "habitable" room.

Weeping is exactly the problem I am finding. I bought the shed with the roof insulated to prevent drips (NOT the non- drip membrane that some shed sellers are supplying but which does not work!) and that's working great. Its just the walls are weeping worse than the wife wept after she saw the invoice (:-)), and I want to stop that AND keep in some (not all) of the heat my little stove will generate.

TomOnBoard

rodzer wrote: »

Then buy sheets of RIGID (t. & g.) insulation and run them around the complete perimeter. The insulation won't absorb moisture.

Is that expanded (open cell) polystyrene? I understood it 'wicked' moisture. I know extruded (closed cell - think Kingspan or ) doesn't wick in the same way, but its feckin expensive!

TomOnBoard

BryanF wrote: »

make the crinkly tin a rain screen cladding, build an insulated stud frame, sealed osb to both sides, with this becoming the new insulated envolpe of the workshop, leave a 2inch gap between stud wall and cladding, venting tin top and bottom

Mmmm! That gives me food for thought I had not considered. And a very good idea! Leave it with me, and please expand if you can, and I'll come back on it.. Thank you.

BryanF

TomOnBoard wrote: »

and please expand if you can,

would you like me to build it for you?:p

GreeBo

BryanF wrote: »

make the crinkly tin a rain screen cladding, build an insulated stud frame, sealed osb to both sides, with this becoming the new insulated envolpe of the workshop, leave a 2inch gap between stud wall and cladding, venting tin top and bottom

I think this is the best option, if you can afford it.
Stopping your wet, warm air from hitting a cold surface is what will prevent condensation.
I'd wrap the whole interior of the studded walls with a damp proof membrane (after you have insulated but before you use OSB or WBP and then just add vents that you van open when you have the heat on and you in there.

rodzer

TomOnBoard wrote: »

Is that expanded (open cell) polystyrene? I understood it 'wicked' moisture. I know extruded (closed cell - think Kingspan or ) doesn't wick in the same way, but its feckin expensive!

I was thinking of the Kingspan/ Xtratherm/ Quinntherm/ Ballytherm variety. Pricy but won't you spend years in your workshop.