Pipe in Pipe qualpex

fiestaman

Hi does any plumbers use this? Its in my house and obviously its not lagged. My stove wont get up to tempeture so would it be possible when my pump turns on to let water out of boiler again the pump kicks on again would it be possible that the floor would be after cooling down the water in the return pipes thus sending cool water back and system never getting up to temp.

corkgsxr

It's not insulated but it's a hell of a lot better than just pipe in concrete. I'd say that's not your problem

jimjimt

I have seen pipe in pipe pex clip outside to a wall in -8c and not freezing.
So I would agree with corkgsxr your problem is else where.

Is it a solid fuel stove ?

Model, size, and quantity of fuel used for it ?

How many radiators is it trying to heat ?

corkgsxr

jimjimt wrote: »

I have seen pipe in pipe pex clip outside to a wall in -8c and not freezing.
So I would agree with corkgsxr your problem is else where.

Is it a solid fuel stove ?

Model, size, and quantity of fuel used for it ?

How many radiators is it trying to heat ?

That's good, iv seen the **** grey stuff freeze at about that temp. Useless stuff

jimjimt

That's good, iv seen the **** grey stuff freeze at about that temp. Useless stuff

The late Pulsar had a pipe in pipe in insulation (the red stuff)which was good upto -40c. Mighty stuff. Good for rerouting waters mains up gables etc..The weakness was always at the fittings.

fiestaman

jimjimt wrote: »

I have seen pipe in pipe pex clip outside to a wall in -8c and not freezing.
So I would agree with corkgsxr your problem is else where.

Is it a solid fuel stove ?

Model, size, and quantity of fuel used for it ?

How many radiators is it trying to heat ?

Yes it a solid fuel Stanley Erin Boiler model. I burn a mixture of smokless coal pearls mixed with antracite at 1 to 1 ratio. then ash and beech logs to. believe me its not from lack of fuel, i dont expect it to run on noting. i have my house zoned and i have it on the rads for the bedrooms, 3x1000double 1x1400double 1x600double 2x1000single. Total KW to heat these is 10.3 and the stove produces 13.2kw to the boiler and 6kw to the room.
Im at a loss at this stage, ive had 2 plumbers look at it and i do need an injector tee but there seems to be a surge of cold water coming back on the return when the pump kicks in. if i have my stove lighting for a whole day it still just works the same as when it is when starting off. Top & bottom pipe to cylinder get up to temp on gravity, pumps kick in and water gets pushed around the system but bottom pipe from cylinder goes cool again....then same thing again and again and again.
If i turn down the stat to get the water circulating earlier then the tank dosent get any hot water beacause i think because the injector tee is not there the water is just pushing through the boiler and back to rads and not pulling water from the tank coil.
hope some of this makes sense.

sanbrafyffe

i agree with you here,,,we used some of that in a school in dublin,,,it was 2 pipes in one pipe insulation,,,,so bloody handy

jimjimt wrote: »

The late Pulsar had a pipe in pipe in insulation (the red stuff)which was good upto -40c. Mighty stuff. Good for rerouting waters mains up gables etc..The weakness was always at the fittings.

jimjimt

i have my house zoned and i have it on the rads for the bedrooms, 3x1000double 1x1400double 1x600double 2x1000single. Total KW to heat these is 10.3 and the stove produces 13.2kw to the boiler and 6kw to the room.

Even though the boiler is rated at 13.2kw it does not been it will produce 13.2 kw. If the stove was 80% efficient it would produce to 10.5 kw the rest goes up the chimney.

Just leave on the 3x1000 doubles and see do they heat up better with the others turn off. Maybe you done this already ?

fiestaman

Problem solved, my pump was at to high a speed. turned it to setting 1 and now after 2hrs or so all the system is hot and pump is circulating all the time until the fire goes out at night