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Rear brake blocks not hitting rim flat on

  • 19-11-2012 10:25am
    #1
    Hungrycol
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭


    Swaped out brake pads on 105 callipers yesterday but they're not hitting the rim flat on. The back of the block it hitting first so much so that the rest of the pad it's contacting it at all, same on both sides. Are they on the wrong way around, left side right side? Its on the back only.

    If they are the wrong way around this means the open end (screw end) would be taking the force from the rim in trying to extract the rubber from the pad casing. Surely not?!


Comments

  • #2
    bcmf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,679 ✭✭✭bcmf


    Hungrycol wrote: »
    Swaped out brake pads on 105 callipers yesterday but they're not hitting the rim flat on. The back of the block it hitting first so much so that the rest of the pad it's contacting it at all, same on both sides. Are they on the wrong way around, left side right side? Its on the back only.

    If they are the wrong way around this means the open end (screw end) would be taking the force from the rim in trying to extract the rubber from the pad casing. Surely not?!
    you should be able to adjust the pad 'inwards' or 'outwards' to make the pad hit the rim flat. There should be a beveled washer between the casing and the inside of the caliper between the screw and the pad which allows the pad to be moved


  • #3
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,812 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Mine (campag xenon) have a hemispherical bolt on the brake shoe, allowing a small amount of movement on all axes. I leave it a bit loose when replacing the pads, and only tighten it up with the brake levers firmly pressed in. It still takes a couple of rides for the braking to become properly smooth.

    Edit: Beaten to it by BCMF.


  • #4
    Hungrycol
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭Hungrycol


    bcmf wrote: »
    you should be able to adjust the pad 'inwards' or 'outwards' to make the pad hit the rim flat. There should be a beveled washer between the casing and the inside of the caliper between the screw and the pad which allows the pad to be moved

    Aye there is. I'll have a fiddle with this.


  • #5
    bcmf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,679 ✭✭✭bcmf


    Hungrycol wrote: »

    Aye there is. I'll have a fiddle with this.
    That's what parts are for. Fiddling with!


  • #6
    NeedMoreGears
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    I believe that brakes should be "toed in" so that they don't squeal - the front of the brake surface contacts the rim initially and when more pressure is applied the rear portion comes into play. I'm never sure exactly how much toe in to set up though so I usually leave them almost parallel to the rim.


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  • #7
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,812 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    NeedMoreGears wrote: »
    I believe that brakes should be "toed in" so that they don't squeal - the front of the brake surface contacts the rim initially and when more pressure is applied the rear portion comes into play. I'm never sure exactly how much toe in to set up though so I usually leave them almost parallel to the rim.

    I would have thought that through wear the brake surface would end up parallel to rim pretty quickly. That said, whenever I've replaced pads, it has taken a small amount of usage to get the braking spot on, so you could well be right.


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