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Repair a plasterboard hole

  • 01-11-2012 8:53pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 188 ✭✭


    Small tennis ball size hole in the wall that needs repairing.

    Any good kits available in dublin? Or does anyone have any easy suggestions?!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 172 ✭✭FMG


    Try strong cardboard cut a little bigger than the hole and fold it in half so it can be pushed through the hole.Tie some string or strong thread and wrap around middle near crease when folded(do this before shoving through).Mix up a little filler or some old plaster and lightly while pulling on string dab some filler into hole .This should set in app 10 mins and then repeat until flush with original finish.Sometimes when cardboard is first pushed through the hole into cavity it is best to face the weak side of fold inwards.Easier to do than explain sorry.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,095 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Wow I was going to post the same thing, but I thought I had invented it!! Though better not to fold the card, just curve it a bit to get it in the hole.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 188 ✭✭A fella called fish


    Thanks guys!

    Presumably then some polyfilla quick dry over it will do the trick?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 744 ✭✭✭dpofloinn


    Those methods are perfectly fine for small holes, but for a hole the size of a tennis ball it would need to supported with a solid backing.I think this link might explain it better than I can



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K37G2j0K8BA


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    Wow that's really the way to do it properly. Have to say I generally just stuff behind with newspaper or similar. But that video is the right way.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,095 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Done that too, but without the support so it wasn't the best job. I think if I tried to screw through drywall into unsupported timber like that I would end up with a mess! Might try gluing it though.

    I have a small hole (about 2 inches) in a bedroom ceiling that I will have a go at like that. I would think it would be easier to make a little template to mark the hole and the piece, rather than trying to get a good square on a wall.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    dpofloinn wrote: »
    Those methods are perfectly fine for small holes, but for a hole the size of a tennis ball it would need to supported with a solid backing.I think this link might explain it better than I can



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K37G2j0K8BA


    Surely you are then left with a slightly raised area though??

    Because you are applying the tape over part of the existing wall/plaster and also skimming over it with the compound.

    So surely even after sanding,you will have a slight square raised area where the repair was made??

    Or am I thinking wrong here???:confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    Its that not the The art in skimming? Do it so well that its so thin and smooth you'd never know.

    I can't do it. But I've seen really good people make an invisible repair. Had a sparks do some work that was really good at it. I noticed he used plaster. Which is probably a lot smoother and thinner than the ready made stuff I use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    For a tennis ball sized hole Id squirt in a blast of expanding foam.
    Once dry cut back any excess so that its at least 5mm back from the surface of the wall.
    Then fill/skim/sand and paint.

    If I was going to tape as per the video If remove the existing skim to avoid the bump as mentioned by paddy147.

    For smaller holes (lets say golf ball sized) you can build up compound against the edges bit by bit until you have filled the hole completely. Takes longer as it has to dry each time but works well for small holes.

    Finally, in a pinch you can glue a couple of lollypop sticks inside the hole as backing then use a similar sized piece or plasterboard and cement it in. Or, its its a smallish hole, just fill it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,095 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    I have just realised what the problem is with the plasterboard patch system. If you are not into building on a regular basis, where do you get a small piece of plasterboard? Any small bits that might be in the garage crumble, swell and are generally useless after a couple of months and get thrown out.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I use premixed wall filler to fill in holes a few inches across.
    ITS very easy to apply ,can be painted or sand down, colored white.
    OR get pollyfilla ,or similar product.
    Maybe i,m lazy ,cant be bothered mixing plaster for a small job like that.
    IT costs around 3 euro for a small tub.
    when its in the tub its the consistency of strong cement, ie easily to apply.it can be laid on, or spread just like plaster.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Whats the best type of filler for filling a 2 euro size wide and 5mm deep dent in a plasterboard wall.

    Its not a hole,just a dent in the wall.

    Numb-nutts here (myself) somehow managed to dent the wall while moving around some chairs earlier on this evening.

    I was intending on repainting the wall anyway,but didnt expect to put a dent in it


    D'oh..:rolleyes::o:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 387 ✭✭peter_dublin


    What I do to repair holes in plasterboard is:

    1. Cut out the damaged area so its square per the video.
    2. Cut a patch the size of the hole - 5mm.
    3. Cut two strips 2cm x Width of area to repair + 2cm each end.
    4. Small dap of construction adhesive on each end of strips.
    5. Insert into hole and wiggle (this spreads the adhesive) to grip.
    6. Allow the strips to dry for at least an hour to two.
    7. Small daps of adhesive on repair piece where it lines up with the
    strips and insert and wiggle which spreads the adhesive so it sits
    flatter.
    8. Leave to dry for an hour or two.
    9. Now you will have a solid repair with can be removed in future if required
    but which is level with the existing plasterboard but below the scim.
    10. Mix up a batch of any filler and fill.
    11. Use a filling knife to smoth, if you don't have a filling or taping knife
    wider than the hole I have used a "new" school rules before with care.
    12. Let it dry and sand with 120 grit.
    13. Repeat 9 - 12.

    Secret to a smoot invisable finish is to close your eyes and run your hand over it, you should not be able to tell where exactly the repair is as the
    spreading of the dust from the repair area should make it feel generally the same. If you can fell and bumps or hallows, fill or sand as appropriate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭phelixoflaherty




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭North West


    Hi fella calles fish
    Find attached a simple and strong remedy to solve your problem.
    NW:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,150 ✭✭✭homer911


    Use a rectangular piece of backing that you can pass through the gap and rotate to facilitate support without the need to bend it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 756 ✭✭✭whowantstwoknow


    Anybody have any success with California patch?

    I have a couple of small holes (about 10mm radius) on a prominent wall that needs repairing. In the past I've used polyfiller and sanded, but I just cant seem to make the repair invisible as the plasterboard paper has a "dabble" finish if you know what I meant. Any sanded finish on the polyfiller just doesnt "match"

    In the youtube videos, it refers to joint compound. Would this provide a better "matching" finish than you typical polyfiller? Is it know as joint compound over here?

    Also for dents rather than holes, I continue to fail in making the repair invisible. Any more tips to getting a better finish. The better half always seems to point out my workmanship :rolleyes:

    Thanks
    W.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 632 ✭✭✭cheif kaiser


    This method has never failed me and saves cutting huge holes in the wall - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1ktZYWuEaE and you can use any sort of mesh or even light plywood (back of an old picture) just poke two holes in it like a button and thread some wire or twine through.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Anybody have any success with California patch?

    I have a couple of small holes (about 10mm radius) on a prominent wall that needs repairing. In the past I've used polyfiller and sanded, but I just cant seem to make the repair invisible as the plasterboard paper has a "dabble" finish if you know what I meant. Any sanded finish on the polyfiller just doesnt "match"

    In the youtube videos, it refers to joint compound. Would this provide a better "matching" finish than you typical polyfiller? Is it know as joint compound over here?

    Also for dents rather than holes, I continue to fail in making the repair invisible. Any more tips to getting a better finish. The better half always seems to point out my workmanship :rolleyes:

    Thanks
    W.
    You won't make it invisible. Never. I know the finish that you are referring to. It is from painting directly onto plasterboard, as the raw board finish is not smooth. If it is really annoying you, then get the complete wall skimmed and repaint. That will do it. But personally, somebody there is over reacting to a very very small issue;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 195 ✭✭sligo camper


    I'd get the guy who threw the tennis ball to fix it....:)


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