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Controls query

  • 29-10-2012 9:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭


    Not an ideal time but was thinking of installing some heating controls into the existing system and would like some advice. Have included some photos to better explain what we have at the moment. From what I can gather we dont have any room stats/motorised valves and have a basic apt anologue timer so I presume the boiler (potterton, hse is 12yrs old) detects the temp of the water as it passes back through the boiler and fires as needed according to the dial and far we have it turned up on the boiler.

    IT would seem the flow and returns for the boiler (untility room) come up into the hotpress above (marked with a red arrow) and branch off there in two manifolds. All pipes from the manifold seem to be 1/2", we have 9 rads in total but only seem to have 5 flow pipes, I am hoping this does not mean the lads loop rads, maybe someone can advise. For the heating coil does the hot water flo in top or bottom, I presume bottom. IF so where the pipe exits the HW cyclinder (green arrow) it then goes around the back. As you will see there is a valve of what I presume is the return for the rads. Is this valve like a summer valve, if so you would need to be very bendy to get in and down to reach. Also for this to work efectively should there not be one on the flow as well to stop the water going to the rads.

    Is this do able:
    I am going to put a new 7day timer down stairs,
    Run some new cable up to the hotpress
    Hopfully work out which pipes are up & downstairs and seperate, each with a MV
    Remove restrictor/balancing valve on hot water coil and replace with a MV
    Install two room stats
    Replace all valves on rads for TRv's

    Would be hoping to reslabing the inside of the boundary walls for insulation purposes so if there is anything else I should be sticking in please say.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    What you want to do is very achievable. While your at it I would extend the manifold up over the height of the cylinder for future maintenance. You will also need an auto-bypass valve between the flow and return from the boiler in the hot press before any valves.

    Also don't put TRV's in the rooms where the room stats are going to be, they will be in conflict with one another.

    Why don't you get a 3 zone programmer something like a Sauter T37 from EPH controls


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Cheers JK
    With regards to the lack of 1/2"'s coming out of the manifold when compared to the number of rads present does this mean they have looped rads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    Top manifold is flow and bottom return. A pair of pipes for each rad so If there is more rads than loops then yer they have teed off. It's still possible they are still up stairs and down.

    Turn off every rad bar one. Turn the boiler on and check the manifold, mark the pipes and turn it off, let cool slightly and repeat test with all rads.

    This is starting to sound like a cookery program. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Cheers
    Any idea % wise what you loose in heat/efficiency when rads are looped or is that the norm now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    Heat loss depends if the pipes are insulated or not. They dont seem to be by the picture. I have the info some where but I would need to pull the attic apart to find it:D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Understood, thanks.


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