JCB 3cx

have2flushtwice

Im the proud new owner of a 1984 JCB 3cx minus a pair of doors! as its a farm machine now, there are a lot of them on farms.
anyone got a pair lying about?!

I'll get a picture up tomorrow if i can.

iverjohnston

You might have a long search. High attrician rate with doors! Try Conaty in Sylvan Park , Kells. Is it a white cab or a black cab? Lots of stuff going to poland, They will take them with any kind of engine or gear box trouble. Iver in Cavan

Tash.777

I got a set of all glass doors and handles new from Eddie Kelly in Galway www.ekplantsales.com. They are for a 1986 black cab.
Can't remember the price but he should be able to sort you out.

Hope it helps

yourpics

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Im the proud new owner of a 1984 JCB 3cx minus a pair of doors! as its a farm machine now, there are a lot of them on farms.
anyone got a pair lying about?!

I'll get a picture up tomorrow if i can.

Do you find the 3CX handy about the farm? Or is a tractor and loader just as good?

iverjohnston

I'll jump in there, and say that the 3cx is the one machine on the farm that I could not do without. If it dosen't start, then things come to a standstill. Its a 1989 grey cab with the 4 in 1 bucket etc. The 4 in one must rate as one of the best inventions. When we bought the digger, we planned to get a shear grab for it, but we never needed to. It can grab a 10 foot wide load of silage, grab up spilled bits, scrape and grab slurry etc. Also great for thumping down fencing posts, and grabbing posts to pull them out again. Also the business for stubbing whins etc. Thats just the front end.............
You need to have 4wd, and they are not for wet fields, as there is a lot of weight built in. You will need 13 foot high doors on your sheds.
Iver in Cavan

Jcb1968

1st thing i would advise, change engine oil and filter, the next wood be replace the main hydraulic hose that runs from the pump in front of oil coolers to the loader spool block, because this hose will break some time in the future and all the hydralic oil will be lost before you even realise its gone

iverjohnston

Well worth checking, never done it on mine, and that pipe is still the original one. But DO remove the front grill and get in there and grease the hardy-spicer on the drive shaft to the hydraulic pump. When this joint runs dry, it will eventually break and take out the radiator, and if your'e really unlucky, the in-line oil cooler as well. Rads are expensive, the drive shaft was well over €100 and a new oil cooler price was so scary I by passed it untill I found a good second hand one. Ask me how I know all this????
Iver in Cavan

yellow50HX

yourpics wrote: »

Do you find the 3CX handy about the farm? Or is a tractor and loader just as good?

Don't have a 3cx but yeah the digger is great around a farm.

Timmaay

I've used my uncles 86 3cx, its well past its best before date I'll admit, but I'd certainly take the tractor over it anyday for loaderwork, and I've borrowed a friends 3ton track machine, and I'd much rather that then the back hoe on the 3xc. If I didn't have the tractor with a loader and needed to do alot on the backhoe then I might consider a 3cx, but I think they do a 1/2 arsed job of each, and are just too heavy to drive in the fields!

f140

i have a terex 860 backhoe and would never go back for a tractor and loader. the handiest tool on the farm once your sheds are high enough for the back actor to fit in. I push up silage with mine and am very happy with it. very fast hydraulics too for loading dung silage etc. love the torque too instead of clutching the whole time. only downfall is that they are slow going up steep hills you would always have to drop a gear. smooth ride is a must aswell.

yellow50HX

Timmaay wrote: »

I've used my uncles 86 3cx, its well past its best before date I'll admit, but I'd certainly take the tractor over it anyday for loaderwork, and I've borrowed a friends 3ton track machine, and I'd much rather that then the back hoe on the 3xc. If I didn't have the tractor with a loader and needed to do alot on the backhoe then I might consider a 3cx, but I think they do a 1/2 arsed job of each, and are just too heavy to drive in the fields!

you need to be able to compare like for like. Have a mid 80's digger and a mid 80's tractor and loader and belive me there is no comparision. The loader and its controls are miles ahead of the tractor. Its stronger and far more easiyer to use. The troque converter and shuttle is a hell of a lot more easier to use then using the clutch. Agreeed more modern tractors and loaders have improved so much more that thery are on a par with the digger but that is a more expensive. As for the digger and track machine they are very differnt machines. the digger is designed as a multi function machine around building site so its not going to be as good as a dedicated track machine, also they are not designed as farm vicheles so will be a bit heavier in fields, this is where the 4wd is essentil.

We only use the tractor loader for light lifting nowadays like moving straw bales and cleaning out the calving pens (the digger wont fit in). it is also easier for brining in straw from the field when i'm on my own.

F.D

Are they really that bad around a field? or just at times when you really should not be out in them anyway?
How do people find them for visability out the back with the jib folded in when working around the yard say putting in silage etc
i find bales of silage very hard on the tractor we have and to be honest i would rather something heavier rather than wrecking the tractor, but i always wondered if a 3cx would be too cumbersome around a yard

f140

F.D wrote: »

Are they really that bad around a field? or just at times when you really should not be out in them anyway?
How do people find them for visability out the back with the jib folded in when working around the yard say putting in silage etc
i find bales of silage very hard on the tractor we have and to be honest i would rather something heavier rather than wrecking the tractor, but i always wondered if a 3cx would be too cumbersome around a yard

it all depends what tyres you have on it. industrial tyres are a disaster so avoid them at all costs. they wont stir in a field. get ones with proper agri tyres and your sorted. although i cannot comment on the 3cx but i know they have a narrower front tyres compared to my terex or older massey 860s so maybe that makes a difference. if you are in a field with agri tyres and get stuck well you defo shouldnt be in there as agri ones are meant for that job. in anycase you always have the back actor to pull you out.

with the 860 backhoes you can take off the dipper in 5 minutes if you wanted if ur shed is too low. again not too sure about the 3cx. i have no problems with view. granted its not as good as a tractor but i find you have plenty and soon get used of it. i wouldnt change my backhoe back for a tracor and loader for the world. the way i see it is that the fact I can put up my own silage with it saves me at least €1000 a year and that helps pay for itself in one way although the 9ft silage clamp did cost €2500 for it. I have a 5ft something mchale grab and its almost on the small side but i just grab the bales with it and works perfectly although its 80% pitsilage is what i have.

have2flushtwice

i uploaded two pics, thought i had more but couldnt find them.
anyhow, this is the cab of her. i took the roof off (white bit) and sandblasted, degreased, two coats of primer, and finished in white. came up pretty well. the job took two days, mostly from start stoping to let paint dry, but not too long so that the paint will stick to the primer!
trickiest part was gtting it back onto the top of the cab without scratching it!
while i had it off, i gave the top of the pillars a bit of wire brush TLC also, quick prime and paint with a brush.

got the lights working also - new bulbs and re-earthed, scrubbed the green from the inside of the lens, and resealed them with white sillicone on the outside and black inside.


there are bigger and more important jobs to be completed also, but for now, im taking on the easy bits!

yellow50HX

f140 wrote: »

it all depends what tyres you have on it. industrial tyres are a disaster so avoid them at all costs. they wont stir in a field. get ones with proper agri tyres and your sorted. although i cannot comment on the 3cx but i know they have a narrower front tyres compared to my terex or older massey 860s so maybe that makes a difference. if you are in a field with agri tyres and get stuck well you defo shouldnt be in there as agri ones are meant for that job. in anycase you always have the back actor to pull you out.

with the 860 backhoes you can take off the dipper in 5 minutes if you wanted if ur shed is too low. again not too sure about the 3cx. i have no problems with view. granted its not as good as a tractor but i find you have plenty and soon get used of it. i wouldnt change my backhoe back for a tracor and loader for the world. the way i see it is that the fact I can put up my own silage with it saves me at least €1000 a year and that helps pay for itself in one way although the 9ft silage clamp did cost €2500 for it. I have a 5ft something mchale grab and its almost on the small side but i just grab the bales with it and works perfectly although its 80% pitsilage is what i have.

yeah fine ours great for teh baled silage. we use chopped bales so they are a fair dog on the tractor. no need to worry about balast either. have lifted 2 at a time as well if i needed to take 2 at a time. looking out teh back is fine once your used to it just remembering the extra hight at the back when going into low sheds (you only make that mistake once). as for going into a fields have found our digger better at getting and out of wet filds then the tractor, and dispite it only beign about 75hp its pulled out much bigger tractors with trailers out of teh mud. I even a towed a loaded rigid lorry out of a wet field and up a steep road with it.

Mightnt be the fastest yoke around but there will always be a place for a digger round here.

just do it

Could the digger replace having a tractor altoghter? All I use the tractor for is the baled silage. I've a MF165. The biggest job in the year is bringing in the bales. Otherwise I've just found it handier to get friends in with better gear for fertilising etc. The transport box gets some use and that's basically it.

So could a digger replace the tractor? I'll be starting a build soon so it would be handy for odd jobs around that.

yellow50HX

just do it wrote: »

Could the digger replace having a tractor altoghter? All I use the tractor for is the baled silage. I've a MF165. The biggest job in the year is bringing in the bales. Otherwise I've just found it handier to get friends in with better gear for fertilising etc. The transport box gets some use and that's basically it.

So could a digger replace the tractor? I'll be starting a build soon so it would be handy for odd jobs around that.

Yes and no, if all your usign the tractor for is loader work and movign bales then yes the digger is better. However there are no links arms or no pto on it and they are not really anygood for trailer work. So if your going doing a bit of building then get a digger (4wd) and use that for the farm work too (quick attach on loader is essential). Keep the tractor cos you'll still need it to do trailer work and if you ever want to do your own spreading or usign any implements.

candor

They both have their place, as said above, I would be slow to get rid of the tractor. It's more stable on the road too compared to a digger.

If you get a digger you'll wonder how you ever went without, very handy to have about the place.

Farfield

Hi, i have a MF860 1997ish very low hours and to be honest its hardly ever used. Do you guys put a shear grab on the front for lifting bales and pit silage - i have a fair bit of both? Mine is fitted with 4 in 1 bucket, but defo not quick attach.
They are a heavy animal in fields alright, about 8 ton, but great for loads of wee jobs like fencing, even straightening pieces of steel.

f140

Farfield wrote: »

Hi, i have a MF860 1997ish very low hours and to be honest its hardly ever used. Do you guys put a shear grab on the front for lifting bales and pit silage - i have a fair bit of both? Mine is fitted with 4 in 1 bucket, but defo not quick attach.
They are a heavy animal in fields alright, about 8 ton, but great for loads of wee jobs like fencing, even straightening pieces of steel.

yes i have a silage grab for bringing in the silage and use it for the bales aswell. handy to break up the bales too. have a 9ft pike/ fork for putting up the silage then in the summer. have a bale handler then for stacking teh bales or loading straw. although sometimes i might leave the 4 in 1 bucket on for a few days and would take in the silage with that to the animals instead of swapping it back if i needed the bucket the next day. quick attach is a must though if you have any other impliment besides the bucket.

candor

Used as the main loader on the farm, shear grab, bale handler, bucket, forks.

Quick attach is the job, particularly when it's hydraulic lock/unlock

just do it

yellow50HX wrote: »

Yes and no, if all your usign the tractor for is loader work and movign bales then yes the digger is better. However there are no links arms or no pto on it and they are not really anygood for trailer work. So if your going doing a bit of building then get a digger (4wd) and use that for the farm work too (quick attach on loader is essential). Keep the tractor cos you'll still need it to do trailer work and if you ever want to do your own spreading or usign any implements.

To get the real benefit then I would also need to get a trailer and hold into the tractor. Makes perfect sense of course. But I don't think I can justify that much extra expense, esp when the tax man pays for half of any digger work I get done.

yellow50HX

just do it wrote: »

To get the real benefit then I would also need to get a trailer and hold into the tractor. Makes perfect sense of course. But I don't think I can justify that much extra expense, esp when the tax man pays for half of any digger work I get done.

if you dont already have a trailer then ther is no need to go and buy one just cos you got a digger. That said and apoligies if im wrong but you said you are doing a build soon. If thats the case and it your own build what would tax man be taking anything. Used my own digger for the house at home and was worth it, my cousin borrowed it for his and it saved him a nice bit too, ( i use his tractor from time to time). I know of lads that buy one for their own build and then sell it it afterwards usually the difference in costs is still a lot less the hire costs you would have needed for the build.

Timmaay

yellow50HX wrote: »

I know of lads that buy one for their own build and then sell it it afterwards usually the difference in costs is still a lot less the hire costs you would have needed for the build.

Assuming you can actually operate the backhoe properly yourself ha! I'd say I've about 100hours experience over the years, and would only call myself some what decent at it now. There is one earthbank that I putup myself 2 years back to extend the silage pit, on hindsight I don't think I could have done a worse job if I tried:P

Mushy06

Any luck with them doors??

have2flushtwice

no luck with the doors. but i got everything else i was looking for. done the king pin. did the dash. flushed the tanks and filtered the hydraulics.
sold it last week. its on donedeal still..

Mushy06

i've an 83 3CX and i've done a good bit to it too. Nearly every seal has been now at this stage. at one stage it was using more hydralic fluid than diesel. did all filters, steering pump and orbil unit. But that said its done a good bit of work. Myself and Brother both after building houses and its after tidying up yard a good bit but thinking of selling it too. Do you mind if i ask ya what you got for it?
Thinking of getting JCB 406 something around 96-97.

have2flushtwice

i had it up for 5200 and got pretty close to it. it didn't have to travel too far, so transport didn't come into the cost.
phone wasn't banging off the wall, but i only want one buyer. . .

Mushy06

Ya i'd be looking for same as i've quick attach and 4 buckets going with it.

Thanks for that. i'll let you know how i got on.

galwaytom

I've some doors there if anyone stuck.

anyone got a 3cx for sale pm me I would be interested.
looking for an old one, 80's, for farm and self build.
Thanks.

eamon11

hello,

had an old 3c digger delivered today. However it cut out after a few minutes. Possibly air locked due to travel on lorry or possible dirty fuel agitated from tank got in.

Can anyone tell me how to bleed this?

Thanks

have2flushtwice

start at the start. is there diesel in it?
open the pipe at the engine pump side of the fuel filter, then go to the hand pump(on the brake pedal side) and pump till your hand gets sore.
tighten the pipe on the fuel filter, and loosen the pipe from the filter to the pump, and hand pump again.
your fuel should be ok to this point and without air.
loosen the 4 pipes coming off the pump and crank for a10 secs. tighten, and loosen the pipes on top of the injectors, crank again, and tighten the injector pipe, and she should go by now.

if she doesn't, your filters could be choked. replace these.
as its a new digger to you, theres a panel on the front of the tank behind where the clutch is. you have to get underneath to access the 8 or ten bolts.
get a roll of paper and wipe it out - make sure there is no dirt in it.
replace the filters and start again.
hope this helps.

have2flushtwice

also check if the stopper is stuck shut on the pump - make sure it moves when you pull the lever inside.

Nekarsulm

Everything have2flushtwice has said, plus one other thing. There is a bleed screw on the side of the pump, loosen it and get "air free" diesel coming there, before progressing to the "spin the engine with the four injector pipes loosesed" stage.

Which engine have you? Presumeably the BMC/Leyland one?
With an in-line injector pump?
Those ones should bleed easily and start in a few turns.
The rotary pump equipped engines ( you could have a transplant from a 272 etc) can be slower to clear themselves.

One last thing, if it's the in-line pump, there is a big bung on top and another smaller one on the side. Check the oil level in the pump. Ordinary engine oil used to top it up.

eamon11

gentlemen,

thanks for the prompt and detailed replies. I am pleasantly surprised at the rapid response.

Anyway, before I saw this today I had another go. The problem is I was using the hand primer for ages but could still only get air and bubbles at the bleed screw. So I reviewed the whole system and found a bad pipe which was taking in air. Replaced the pipe and changed fuel filters while i was at it, including cleaning out the glass jar thing. There was so much **** and gunk everywhere that I am surprised the machine had started at all. I disconnected and blew out all hoses and pipes and the diesel was very dirty indeed, even in the pipes! I let it run from the tank for 30 secs and this is dirty also. I will have to address the tank issue as it must be full of ****.
Anyway, I got her started and moved in off the road.
She bust a pipe on the back actor, the one which operates the bucket, as the lorry driver was driving it down the ramp. He moved the bucket a bit unkindly and the force popped the pipe. I have taken it off and have a new one. I have a drum of hydraulic oil. Its either 20 or 25 litres. Will this be enough? Can anyone give a tip as to air bleeding the hydraulic system afterwards? Or is this a non issue.
By the way, the machine is not a 3c, its a 2D from 1978.

Thanks again lads.
ps, its a leyland engine.

Nekarsulm

Best of luck with your new digger.
Was it sitting idle for long before you bought it?
Hydraulic hoses get hard and brittle when not in use, be prepared for more burst hoses......
Some of those pipes could be original, and over 30 years of age.
Don't go walking under the raised loader or back arm.....
No bleeding needed for hydraulic oil system.

anfieldrd

eamon11 wrote: »

gentlemen,

thanks for the prompt and detailed
Anyway, I got her started and moved in off the road.
She bust a pipe on the back actor, the one which operates the bucket, as the lorry driver was driving it down the ramp. He moved the bucket a bit unkindly and the force popped the pipe. I have taken it off and have a new one. I have a drum of hydraulic oil. Its either 20 or 25 litres. Will this be enough? Can anyone give a tip as to air bleeding the hydraulic system afterwards? Or is this a non issue.
By the way, the machine is not a 3c, its a 2D from 1978.

Thanks again lads.
ps, its a leyland engine.

I purchased a 1979 jcb 3c and had the same issue, reversing up a steep hill ended up with the fuel line been blocked, I have her going since but must clean out the gunk from the fuel tank in the near future.

Regarding hydraulic oil, I burst a pipe on the front loader, lost a lot of oil and it took 2 and a bit 20 litre drums to have her right, I could hear the hydraulic pump humming when she was low.

eamon11

Thanks lads,

ye seem to know a bit about the machines.

i have put in new pipe and added 15 litres of hydraulic oil. It wouldn't take anymore and was overflowing up the funnel. I worked her a bit. What an experience, it may take me a while to get used to the controls! I could hear the pump whine so added the last 5 lites after a while. However its still very near the top almost at overflowing yet there is still the whine from the pump which would indicate the oil being low.
The front loader has lots of lift power but bad downward power. It cannot lift the front wheels off the ground.
Next problem is how to pump the wheels as they are a bit down. I am 7 miles from a service station.What pressure should the rear wheels take?

Many thanks again lads, I appreciate the advice.

Nekarsulm

Just out of curiosity, have a crawl underneath the back end and check if there is a PTO shaft present. Some 2 D's had a PTO. Would be handy if you had one, as you could use it to run an air ccompressor to pump up the tyres.

Re. The downwards pressure of the front arms. Has your machine got a "float" position on the control lever?
Back fully = lift.
Forward of the central podition= push down.
Fully forward = float.

Nekarsulm

https://m.facebook.com/groups/465497903597069

eamon11

thanks Nekarsulm,

you are a fountain of knowledge about the old birds.

is that your group in facebook?

I had a look when I got it but unfortunately it does not have a pto. However it does have a 4 in 1 bucket and the machine and cab bodywork is in very good condition. All windows present and working too. Even the gauges are all working. New indicators and lights and a very tidy machine.
Re., the lever positions I have not noticed anything but I will check it again tomorrow. My feeling is no, and that it simply lacks the power required to push downward as when I push the lever down it goes so far then the engine is under pressure. But having said that, it does have a huge lifting capacity...its confusing. I have so much to learn with this machine.

What kind of pressure should be in the tyres?

Cheers,

Eamon

have2flushtwice

eamon11 wrote: »

thanks Nekarsulm,

you are a fountain of knowledge about the old birds.

is that your group in facebook?

I had a look when I got it but unfortunately it does not have a pto. However it does have a 4 in 1 bucket and the machine and cab bodywork is in very good condition. All windows present and working too. Even the gauges are all working. New indicators and lights and a very tidy machine.
Re., the lever positions I have not noticed anything but I will check it again tomorrow. My feeling is no, and that it simply lacks the power required to push downward as when I push the lever down it goes so far then the engine is under pressure. But having said that, it does have a huge lifting capacity...its confusing. I have so much to learn with this machine.

What kind of pressure should be in the tyres?

Cheers,

Eamon

30 in the rear, 40 in the front should do it. the front may need to be harder, but if the tyres are perished they may not be able to hold 50. watch out for cracks in the tyre walls. if they look good, go for 50. a neighbouring farmer may have a compressor, or you can get one in aldi for 99. they will do what you need. can also be used for blowing out the radiator etc.

eamon11

thanks havetoflush

thing is, after its first workout I didnt start it for a few days. When I went to start it a few days later it would not start again!! I have diesel at both bleed screws and also when I crack the injector diesel comes out if I turn the engine. But she still will not start. Getting annoyed now with it.

Nekarsulm

Are you getting smoke out the exhaust while cranking?
Have you pushed in the "cold start" button?

By the way, what are the brakes like?

When you hit a pier or the corner of a shed, and knock it, that's the time to get annoyed with her!

eamon11

ha ha if only I could get as far as hitting a pier with her!! As far as I recall there is smoke out the exhaust while cranking but I will check again tomorrow.
It does not have a cold start. Brakes are not too bad and the previous owner even gave me some disc like brakes to install in it!

il gatto

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Just out of curiosity, have a crawl underneath the back end and check if there is a PTO shaft present. Some 2 D's had a PTO. Would be handy if you had one, as you could use it to run an air ccompressor to pump up the tyres.

Re. The downwards pressure of the front arms. Has your machine got a "float" position on the control lever?
Back fully = lift.
Forward of the central podition= push down.
Fully forward = float.

Amazed that other manufacturers never followed Zetor and put a compressor on the engine (does anyone else? Only seen them on Zetors.). I found it invaluable when I was driving one for work years ago.

davidk1394

We've a 3cx here. The slewing mechanism is gone in the back acter. Any idea on how i could fix it ?

Nekarsulm

davidk1394 wrote: »

We've a 3cx here. The slewing mechanism is gone in the back acter. Any idea on how i could fix it ?

New king post and possibly the slew ram. Mucho buckos. Be careful when fitting new seals to the king post, don't throw the old ones in the fire. They release an acid when burnt that will eat down to the bone.....

davidk1394

Nekarsulm wrote: »

New king post and possibly the slew ram. Mucho buckos. Be careful when fitting new seals to the king post, don't throw the old ones in the fire. They release an acid when burnt that will eat down to the bone.....

There's no ram on ours. Its a little worm in a pot. Gave bother before and is known to give trouble in the early 3cx

GY A1

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Are you getting smoke out the exhaust while cranking?
Have you pushed in the "cold start" button?

By the way, what are the brakes like?

When you hit a pier or the corner of a shed, and knock it, that's the time to get annoyed with her!

drop the bucket in time to slow her up
or dont have rams to far off the ground going along the road