Pipe Leak (with pics)

C.O.Y.B.I.B

Hi ,

Hope someone can help. Had a leak from a pipe above the boiler . Really small slow leak , but im sure these things can get worse . Its leaking from a screw in a pipe just above the pump. Just barely seeping through , but enough to warrant attention. Can I just tighten that screw or is it a bigger issue ?

Thanks for any help .

DGOBS

No you can't tighten it, if you touch it, it will get worse.

It the the isolation valve for the pump and will need changing (involves draining down the central heating)

shane0007

Have them changed for gate type pump valves.

C.O.Y.B.I.B

Thanks Guys,

I had a feeling it wasn't a good idea to touch it myself. Is it a quick and easy job?
Any ballpark on a cost?

LIFFY FISHING

Its not complicated, isolate your supplyie tie up the ballvalve in the expasion tank, the small one in the attic, or if it a pressurised system make sure thee filling loop is off, it is supposed to be any way.
Find a drain point its usually in your hot press and connect it to a garden hose then jyst drain the ststem, you will need to open the vents in the rads to do this to allow the air in to drain the system, then simply replace the pump valves, you buy them in any plumbers merchants, 1" or 3/4" , check your size before buying them, then just change them over, when you are finished refill the system and close the vents in the rads downstairs first that should make sure the air rises and you have no air locks, turn on the heating and if you have any air in the system bleed it.
Total time 60 mins max, cost to you about 40 euro.

gdavis

Other option is using a freezer kit,u can buy one for 20 euro ish,saves any issues with drain down,refilling,

freddyuk

I love the optimism! It is always the "simple" jobs that end up taking 2 days. I cannot see the bottom fitting so cannot see if it is accessible for starters. Getting an old fitting apart can be a bit tricky if it is in the back of a hotpress. Just getting a spanner on it may be impossible.

Also if you are changing the valves for a different type they are likely to be a different length so you will need to be able to move the pipes or replumb to some extent.
I would go and get the valves and a new pump and check the distance between the connections before you start draining down anything. This OP is not likely to have a van full of kit when he tries this on a Sunday morning.

If you reuse the pump - which looks quite old - it may well leak past even new gaskets unless it is carefully cleaned up. For the money and loss of hassle a new pump is well worth it I would say. Compression joints will be easy enough to reseal and the job will be good for many years. Check everything will fit before you do anything as as soon as you touch that it will start to leak worse.

C.O.Y.B.I.B

Thanks again for all the advice. I'm glad I didn't just go at it! Sounds like one of those simple jobs that will get worse before it gets better if I don't plan it well.

shane0007

C.O.Y.B.I.B wrote: »

Thanks again for all the advice. I'm glad I didn't just go at it! Sounds like one of those simple jobs that will get worse before it gets better if I don't plan it well.

I would not worry too much about it. It's only a weeping pump valve. A couple of gate type valves cost about €20 including vat. If your plumber has not got a freeze kit, it will not take much to drain the system to change them. Nothing major!

STI V5

Yeah a reasonably straight forward fix !! With the right fittings and tools !! But if u were going to have a go at it yourself i would go for a good quality like for like replacement as these will accept the 3/4 copper pipe and olive rather than the gate valve type as they generally have a female thread which will require a 311 compression fitting which will then stretch the overall length of the pump with new valves attached .. Not a big deal if u have a bit of space to play with but a pain in the nuts if its a tight fit .. And not a bad idea to replace the pump while your at it especially if its an oldie .. Goodluck