Electric fencing guide

just do it

Anyone have a good simple guide to electric fencing?

Mine is a bit all over the place and I know I'm not getting the most out of it. I just don't know the simple rules of thumb e.g. is out in a straight line better than a loop? Should 2 strands of wire each only have one connection point to the current? Is current lost when going from 14g to 16g back to 14g wire? etc etc

just do it

I got one of these forcefield fault-finder free with a fencer unit a few years ago and found it brilliant. But it's expensive! Unfortunately it's hiding in the rushes somewhere never to be seen again.

I've also one of the cheaper testers that has the earthing rod which isn't as good but does the job. It has given up the ghost though so I'm back in the market for a tester.

Any suggestions? What's the best one? Is it worth spending €80 for the fault-finder when a simple tester can be picked up for €15-20?

JohnBoy

just do it wrote: »

Unfortunately it's hiding in the rushes somewhere never to be seen again.

My €25 tester must be with it, havent seen it since the spring.


Gallaghers have a lot of info online, which applies generally and not just to their stuff.

http://www.gallagher.co.nz/electric-fence-help.aspx

blue5000

Just open up the tester with a philips screw driver, there is probably a loose wire in there which you should be able to fix yourself.

Use the one type of wire, preferably hi-tensile everywhere. We have some up since the mid 80's.

Cresoted stakes and strainers are the best, but we have our own post driver and are using un-treated larch now as I can't justify paying 7-8e for a creseoted stake.

It's better to join 2 strands at both ends, also fence in loops. By that I mean go all round a field, avoid dead ends, current travels better this way.

A good way to learn would be to go work for farm relief for the winter, tough work but you'll be able to tie a reef knot in your sleep.

just do it

blue5000 wrote: »

A good way to learn would be to go work for farm relief for the winter, tough work but you'll be able to tie a reef knot in your sleep.

:) I may hold onto my own day job for now!

just do it

JohnBoy wrote: »

Gallaghers have a lot of info online, which applies generally and not just to their stuff.

http://www.gallagher.co.nz/electric-fence-help.aspx

Seems to be plenty on there alright. That's tonights bedtime reading taken care of

Farmer Pudsey

I have one of the gallagher orange 5 led testers. Got it free with a electric fence I bought. Cheap and cheerful. I have found 2 leds dogy, 3 will hold them 4 or five leds will give them a crack you can hear a good bit away.

I have often ment to buy one of the fault loctator's but usually manage. If you can set your fence in such a way that you have one main line through the farm use gates as break points to check for a fault instean of haveing someone turn on or off the fence (a lengt of rope will keep cattle in if you need to let it off to fix fence). What would be very handy is a pair of gloves that you could handle the wire with.

Tipp Man

Whatever you do make sure you put the wire on the right side of the stake - especially at the roadway

just do it

Tipp Man wrote: »

Whatever you do make sure you put the wire on the right side of the stake - especially at the roadway

Is that when you're walking away from the shed or towards the shed?

The hawlk

If the fence is done in a loop will the fault finder tester be any good