no warm air

sean1141 · 23-09-2012 8:29pm #1

Went for a spin last night and the heaters in the car never got warm. The temp gauge hardly moved off the low mark. Drove about 50km so car had ample time to warm up. I'm guessing the thermostat is stuck or sticking???

04 mondeo tdci

TheBody · 23-09-2012 8:30pm

sean1141 wrote: »

Went for a spin last night and the heaters in the car never got warm. The temp gauge hardly moved off the low mark. Drove about 50km so car had ample time to warm up. I'm guessing the thermostat is stuck or sticking???

04 mondeo tdci

Yea, I'd say it's the thermostat too.

CiniO · 24-09-2012 8:22am

Did you check coolant level?

sean1141 · 24-09-2012 8:33am

Yes. Its to the Max mark

sean1141 · 25-09-2012 10:51pm

Changed the stat. Have warm air but the gauge is still not rising....

PaulKK · 26-09-2012 10:39am

sean1141 wrote: »

Changed the stat. Have warm air but the gauge is still not rising....

Is there an EGR thermostat on those Sean?

Had the same on the 320d and the needle sorted itself out after I changed the EGR stat.

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 11:00am

PaulKK wrote: »

Is there an EGR thermostat on those Sean?

Had the same on the 320d and the needle sorted itself out after I changed the EGR stat.

Not that I know of Paul but that's not to say there isn't one. I have seen oil cooler stat mentioned on the net but can't see anything about it on the Haynes manual.

I earthed the wire going to the coolant tepm sensor as in the guide in the Haynes manual. It said if the sensor was faulty the gauge would go into the hot position but it never moved. It looks a big job to remove it so I would like to be sure its faulty before removing it.

The hand rises up a quarter way or that but can drop back down again while driving???

PaulKK · 26-09-2012 1:17pm

sean1141 wrote: »

The hand rises up a quarter way or that but can drop back down again while driving???

Yep it just wouldn't get up to temperature for me.

You try bleeding the rad etc for air?

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 2:37pm

Dont think its possible to bleed the rad in these

renofan · 26-09-2012 2:57pm

sean1141 wrote: »

..The hand rises up a quarter way or that but can drop back down again while driving???

Are you sure the system was bled correctly after changing the stat? I presume it was a new stat you put in. Have you checked the coolant level after driving the car?

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 3:15pm

Ya new stat. Non genuine one though. According to the Haynes manual the only bleed screw is on top of the water pump. You open this if you drain the coolant and when you start refilling the coolant you close this once coolant starts coming out. I never drained the coolant, just opened the pipe going to the stat and changed it. Only lost a small bit of coolant. Topped it to the Max mark, let it run for a few min then topped it up again. Drove it for a good while and it never dropped below the Max mark since

Damien360 · 26-09-2012 6:50pm

I know it is old shape Mondeo you have but there was a fault with early new shape ones using manual air-con (LX model). The heater control knob separated from the assembly to the rear of it. There was a spring just behind that snapped if I remember it right. Could it be something simple like that ?

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 7:19pm

Damien360 wrote: »

I know it is old shape Mondeo you have but there was a fault with early new shape ones using manual air-con (LX model). The heater control knob separated from the assembly to the rear of it. There was a spring just behind that snapped if I remember it right. Could it be something simple like that ?

Digital climate control in my car. All buttons, no knobs!!

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 7:28pm

You now have heat after changing the stat.

I'd be thinking that it's a faulty temp sensor supplying the gauge.

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 7:35pm

The air is warm but not roasting. I had it set at high last night driving around and I had two shirts and a jacket on. So it wouldn't be as hot as it should?

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 7:46pm

sean1141 wrote: »

The air is warm but not roasting. I had it set at high last night driving around and I had two shirts and a jacket on. So it wouldn't be as hot as it should?

OK - I see your point. Set 'high' should roast you after 15/20 mins of motorway driving. It's possible that the new stat is not closing correctly. How do the top and bottom rad hoses compare for temperature?

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 8:02pm

It was a cheap stat so maybe it's not Great. Might not be fitted right either.. i'll compare the hoses after the next spin.

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 8:11pm

sean1141 wrote: »

It was a cheap stat so maybe it's not Great. Might not be fitted right either.. i'll compare the hoses after the next spin.

It half cured your problem (so maybe it's the part or the fitting of it) but as you made progress I'd be inclined to think that replacing the stat was the right 'line of enquiry' and that something has gone amiss along the way.

It's possible that you have a secondary fault but to have two faults resulting in similar symptoms at the same time is possible but not odds on.

cena · 26-09-2012 8:16pm

Could he not ask the guys in the part shop to boil the kettle and put the new stat he brought to see if it working right

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 8:21pm

cena wrote: »

Could he not ask the guys in the part shop to boil the kettle and put the new stat he brought to see if it working right

He could but the kettle test doesn't have coolant system pressure with high temperatures in a pumped and closed system. The kettle test is just an indicator.

System pressure may be holding a faulty thermostat open a smidgen allowing cold water to circulate.

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 8:25pm

The air might have been Luke warm the first night but it was very cold out and I would not have been dressed as warmly so the replacement stat may not have done anything but I think it improved it. I keep reading about an oil cooler thermostat on the web but I dont want to keep buying parts that are not faulty either

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 8:29pm

On the coldest of days my PSA 110bhp engine will roast me if it's left on 'HI'.

I'm no Ford expert but I'd imagine that an oil cooler thermostat is for keeping the oil cool and has no relevance to the heating and ventilation system.

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 8:36pm

Me either but from what I gather the coolant passes true the oil cooler and if the stat on that gets stuck it can cause low engine temp

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 8:43pm

sean1141 wrote: »

Me either but from what I gather the coolant passes true the oil cooler and if the stat on that gets stuck it can cause low engine temp

I've no idea where the oil cooler stat sits in relation to coolant flow from the radiator so I can't really comment although I doubt it's the root of your problem.

sean1141 · 26-09-2012 8:45pm

Loads of guys on the ford websites claim its the main cause of the temp gauge not being right.. after that I don't know

crosstownk · 26-09-2012 9:00pm

sean1141 wrote: »

Loads of guys on the ford websites claim its the main cause of the temp gauge not being right.. after that I don't know

Maybe it's fed directly from the radiator. If that's the case it could well be your problem.

Like I said, it's unlikely that two faults occur at the same time with the same symptoms but then the weather has been warm until recently so maybe you didn't spot the two problems when you didn't need heating.

Maybe it's time for a Ford expert before replacing parts based on speculation.

sean1141 · 10-10-2012 3:19pm

Just an update on this. Replaced the oil cooler thermostat which is located on the back of the water pump. Gauge is now reading perfect and loads of warm air.

This was the little bugger.. motor factors never heard tell of the part.

no warm air

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