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Oil burner not firing up

  • 19-09-2012 9:03pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16


    I have a bierllo burner that won't start , full oil tank pump is bleed , pump is giving out pressure but oil not going to the jet , when it locks down press reset the fan starts then I hear the ignition kicking in but nothing , taught it was the solinoid but have changed that still nothing
    Any help would be great thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,081 ✭✭✭sheesh


    The house I live in has had a couple of problems with the oil fired central heating in the last couple of years so here what has gone wrong with ours its a different boiler to yours so take from it .

    if its a new unit the nozzel might not be optimised to the type of oil an so its not lighting.

    the boiler might need a service. carbon deposits on the burner prevent proper ignition.

    the water pump is broken so the water is not moving an so the boiler turns off when the water reaches temperature.

    worst case senarior: you have a leak in you heating pipes and there is so little water in the system that its being heated quickly.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    sheesh wrote: »
    The house I live in has had a couple of problems with the oil fired central heating in the last couple of years so here what has gone wrong with ours its a different boiler to yours so take from it .

    if its a new unit the nozzel might not be optimised to the type of oil an so its not lighting.

    the boiler might need a service. carbon deposits on the burner prevent proper ignition.

    the water pump is broken so the water is not moving an so the boiler turns off when the water reaches temperature.

    worst case senarior: you have a leak in you heating pipes and there is so little water in the system that its being heated quickly.

    With this particular case it is nothing to do with the heating system. If the boiler is going to lock, then it is a "flame failure" and not overheating and tripping the high limit. That would result in no power to the burner.

    What is the pump pressure actually giving? Most likely fault is the photocell but could be other faults. Would need to know some other parameter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51 ✭✭boiler break downs


    ads1980 wrote: »
    I have a bierllo burner that won't start , full oil tank pump is bleed , pump is giving out pressure but oil not going to the jet , when it locks down press reset the fan starts then I hear the ignition kicking in but nothing , taught it was the solinoid but have changed that still nothing
    Any help would be great thanks
    it sounds like the photo cell.try plug out the cell from the control box and see if it fires.if it does then replace photo cell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ads1980


    shane0007 wrote: »
    sheesh wrote: »
    The house I live in has had a couple of problems with the oil fired central heating in the last couple of years so here what has gone wrong with ours its a different boiler to yours so take from it .

    if its a new unit the nozzel might not be optimised to the type of oil an so its not lighting.

    the boiler might need a service. carbon deposits on the burner prevent proper ignition.

    the water pump is broken so the water is not moving an so the boiler turns off when the water reaches temperature.

    worst case senarior: you have a leak in you heating pipes and there is so little water in the system that its being heated quickly.

    With this particular case it is nothing to do with the heating system. If the boiler is going to lock, then it is a "flame failure" and not overheating and tripping the high limit. That would result in no power to the burner.

    What is the pump pressure actually giving? Most likely fault is the photocell but could be other faults. Would need to know some other parameter.


    Not sure on the pressure but if I cover the bleed nipple with my finger turn it on I can't hold it in so under alot of pressure , cleaned the photo cell still no joy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51 ✭✭boiler break downs


    ads1980 wrote: »
    shane0007 wrote: »
    sheesh wrote: »
    The house I live in has had a couple of problems with the oil fired central heating in the last couple of years so here what has gone wrong with ours its a different boiler to yours so take from it .

    if its a new unit the nozzel might not be optimised to the type of oil an so its not lighting.

    the boiler might need a service. carbon deposits on the burner prevent proper ignition.

    the water pump is broken so the water is not moving an so the boiler turns off when the water reaches temperature.

    worst case senarior: you have a leak in you heating pipes and there is so little water in the system that its being heated quickly.

    With this particular case it is nothing to do with the heating system. If the boiler is going to lock, then it is a "flame failure" and not overheating and tripping the high limit. That would result in no power to the burner.

    What is the pump pressure actually giving? Most likely fault is the photocell but could be other faults. Would need to know some other parameter.


    Not sure on the pressure but if I cover the bleed nipple with my finger turn it on I can't hold it in so under alot of pressure , cleaned the photo cell still no joy
    remove photo cell and press reset button .does it fire before lock out.if so then its the photo cell.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 736 ✭✭✭KK4SAM


    <snip>
    Mod edit: Not very safe advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ads1980


    ads1980 wrote: »
    I have a bierllo burner that won't start , full oil tank pump is bleed , pump is giving out pressure but oil not going to the jet , when it locks down press reset the fan starts then I hear the ignition kicking in but nothing , taught it was the solinoid but have changed that still nothing
    Any help would be great thanks
    it sounds like the photo cell.try plug out the cell from the control box and see if it fires.if it does then replace photo cell.


    When I take out photo cell the fan stays on longer with no ignition coming on


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    it sounds like the photo cell.try plug out the cell from the control box and see if it fires.if it does then replace photo cell.

    The photocell disconnected will not fire the boiler. You only carry out that test if the boiler purges continuously and never goes to lock out. Then when you disconnect the photocell from the control box, it would then go to lock, inferring that the photocell is faulty.

    When the photocell is faulty and going to first off lock, unless you have equipment that can test lux, then the only test for the photocell is a replacement one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ads1980


    Tried removing to see if there was spray no joy this led me to think of the solinoid


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Goodness!! Chevron and Metac have been busy this year. ;)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    ads1980 wrote: »
    Tried removing to see if there was spray no joy this led me to think of the solinoid

    Jaysus, do not remove the burner and try firing it. It is down right dangerous and stupid. Do not give this advice as you could cause serious harm to untrained people. I would not even try this, nor would I need to.

    It is not the solenoid. It is most likely to be a faulty photocell or a faulty control box. It could also be a faulty oil pump, hence, pressure/vacuum gauge required.

    Rather than rushing out and purchasing a fist full of parts, call out a decent OFTEC technician who knows what they are doing. They will also carry all the necessary spares to get you going and they will also service and analyise the boiler if required.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51 ✭✭boiler break downs


    ads1980 wrote: »
    Tried removing to see if there was spray no joy this led me to think of the solinoid
    you say you changed the solenoid and no joy .you know it is working.no oil its the pump.you have proven oil is coming to the burner i assum


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    you say you changed the solenoid and no joy .you know it is working.no oil its the pump.you have proven oil is coming to the burner i assum

    The finger holding back the pressure probably proved there was oil!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ads1980


    Yea changed it put multi meter on it and got reading of 240 , so I presume it's working , when I take off the bleed screw I get a good flow of oil then press reset and the oil flys out about 6 ft from burner so I'm presuming again it's fine


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    240 what? What are you measuring? It should be 100ohms. A solenoid does work therefore you measure its resistance. As I told you it is not the solenoid.

    I give up....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    shane0007 wrote: »
    240 what? What are you measuring? It should be 100ohms. A solenoid does work therefore you measure its resistance. As I told you it is not the solenoid.

    I give up....

    You tried, :D:D:D:D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    crazy to advise somebody who obviously are not experienced to
    try and fire burner outside of boiler thats just downrite dangerous and should never
    be done listen to shane and billy they are usually spot on on with their advice


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    get a plumber:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 736 ✭✭✭KK4SAM


    If you remove the jet are to getting the same spray (6 ft)?
    If you are getting good flow at this point then you have to assume the jet is blocked.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ads1980


    KK4SAM wrote: »
    If you remove the jet are to getting the same spray (6 ft)?
    If you are getting good flow at this point then you have to assume the jet is blocked.
    I'm not getting any oil past the pump , disconnected the copper pipe that feeds the jet , I also replaced the jet


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  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Ok, ASSUMING the Riello is a G series, the pressure your 'feeling' once the reset button is pressed it termed 'wash pressure', and does not indicate the pump is operating correctly.

    You are attempting to 'test' components such as a pump without using test equipment, the end result is you have sprayed oil all over the place (6ft long sprays) and then tried to fire a burner in the same area! Would you jump out of a plane without a parachute or the training to use one?

    In all likelyhood the pump, stem or pump drive is shot, but it is by no mean been proven by your DIY attempts at burning your house down and polluting the environment with oil. The only suggestion would be to get someone who does know what they are doing to have a look at it as you are clearly just chancing your arm.

    What would happen when you 'fixed' the problem, how will you set the oil pressure? set the air? test the smoke number? test for correct CO2 and CO level? or is all that going to be left to chance?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    to the above, the very same thought occurred to myself, what if it did fire with all the oil he has sprayed, spilled, leaked around the place, so thats why i said.. get a plumber:)


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