Needed - good, knowledgable plumber / heating specialist

Foxtrot Tango

Due to ongoing problems with my heating system and, specifically, my boiler continually tripping out, I need the help of a good plumber, heating specialist. System has a mixture of rads and UFH so I guess it might be considered complex and a number of previous attempts to resolve the issues have ultimately failed.
So looking for a fresh pair of knowledgeable eyes if someone can recommend someone. I'm in D15. Thanks

Joey the lips

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DGOBS

Would love some more detail, ie, what type of boiler, define 'tripping out' electrical? lockout?
How often it happens etc, detail,detail,detail, and see how far we can take you here.

Foxtrot Tango

Well it's a long story but suffice it to say that the main problem I have now is that the boiler (A Vokera Mynute HE) is tripping out first thing in the morning with the fault message - "Flow temperature too high, or temperature differential between primary and return too high". So When I get up the red light is on the boiler and I've no hot water/heat. When I reset it it works fine.
Now, this is not a new problem, I've had it before but it was related to a problem I had with the wiring of the system (a combination of rads and UFH) which was subsequently resolved. Also, I had the boiler checked before by Vokera and they confirmed it wasn't a boiler fault. So it seems that it's the plumbing not the boiler. In fact I think it's the UFH because that is set to come on early in the morning and I think that when it kicks in the boiler starts and heats the water but the valves on the UFH take a minute or two to open up , hence the hot water has nowhere to go... but I could be wrong, it was working fine for a long time.
So, like I say, a long story and hence I'd like someone knowledgable and unbiased ( ie not involved in the original installation) to take a look.

shane0007

It does seem like a circulation problem. The boiler itself does have a bypass valve installed but Vokera themselves admit it is too small and recommend an external one installed. It would not be difficult to install one between the flow and return before the UFH manifold. What also may help is looking at the controls of the UFH, i.e. the wiring centre. Depending on what system you have it should be possible to ensure the SWL to the boiler is only live when an actuator has fully open.

Perhaps you could programme the hot water circuit to come in say 5 minutes before the UFH is programmed on. If this solves the problem then you know for sure that it is the UFH causing the problem.

DGOBS

+1. simple enough test, then have a bypass fitted at the cylinder if successful.

Foxtrot Tango

shane0007 wrote: »

It does seem like a circulation problem. The boiler itself does have a bypass valve installed but Vokera themselves admit it is too small and recommend an external one installed. It would not be difficult to install one between the flow and return before the UFH manifold. What also may help is looking at the controls of the UFH, i.e. the wiring centre. Depending on what system you have it should be possible to ensure the SWL to the boiler is only live when an actuator has fully open.

Perhaps you could programme the hot water circuit to come in say 5 minutes before the UFH is programmed on. If this solves the problem then you know for sure that it is the UFH causing the problem.

Thanks, your suggestion is identical to the one I got from the electrician who eventually sorted my electrical issues. However, when I asked the original plumber to do this he installed the bypass in the hot press (presumably because it was easier) and, not knowing any better, I agreed. However, the electrician subsequently told me that what the plumber did was of no benefit and that it needed to be next to the boiler. Also the bypass installed has a manual valve on it which I also don't think is of any use - I have to open or close it myself whereas I guess it should open automatically only when needed ?

I will programme the timing as you've suggested for tomorrow to confirm it's the UFH but, in the end, I'm still concerned that it's happening at all particularly when it was more or less working ok last winter / spring (admittedly with an occasional tripping out), so I'm wondering what has changed and maybe the UFH valves / system needs some kind of cleaning / maintenance.

btw I forgot to mention that the whole system is less than 2 years old ..

shane0007

Foxtrot Tango wrote: »

Thanks, your suggestion is identical to the one I got from the electrician who eventually sorted my electrical issues. However, when I asked the original plumber to do this he installed the bypass in the hot press (presumably because it was easier) and, not knowing any better, I agreed. However, the electrician subsequently told me that what the plumber did was of no benefit and that it needed to be next to the boiler. Also the bypass installed has a manual valve on it which I also don't think is of any use - I have to open or close it myself whereas I guess it should open automatically only when needed ?

I will programme the timing as you've suggested for tomorrow to confirm it's the UFH but, in the end, I'm still concerned that it's happening at all particularly when it was more or less working ok last winter / spring (admittedly with an occasional tripping out), so I'm wondering what has changed and maybe the UFH valves / system needs some kind of cleaning / maintenance.

btw I forgot to mention that the whole system is less than 2 years old ..

I would definitely look at when the actuator is calling in the boiler as it may be wired incorrectly, in that, the same SWL that calls in the actuator via the stat could also be calling in the biker via the time clock. It really depends on what system you have.
You would generally have a couple of small open loops but it sounds like you do not. These would then be blocked a motorized valve controlling that manifold when not in use.
The automatic bypass valve should be on the offending circuit as may not be access to the valve in the hot press when the UFH is on. It could be blocked by a motorised valve. I am guessing here as I am not standing looking at it.

freddyuk

Not sure what mixer valve arrangement you have between the rads and UFH but it may be air trapped in the UFH which can get lodged in the valve and stop the flow which then leads to an overheat. Worth checking the valve and maybe open fully with pump on fast and see what happens. UFH has a lot of horizontal pipe and air can be difficult to get out unless a proper procedure is followed.If the problem has been intermittent for 2 years then my money is on this.