Help - Verifier alarm code?

Dita

Hi all,

Sadly in possession of a Verifier alarm, which won't stop beeping, despite the correct code being input time and again.

Can't afford an alarm engineer's fee at the moment but doubt there will be any sleep had until this is sorted.

Does anybody know any Engineer's code to disable it?

Thanks in advance.

D

KoolKid

Whats coming up on the display when you enter your code?
I am sending you the engineer manuals via PM , although there is a good change the default code has been changed.
If you know who installed it PM me & I'll see what I can find.

Dita

pm'd you back there Koolkid

Muchos muchos gratias

KoolKid

You are welcome. Any more problems you know where to find us.

chessguy

Hi I also have a

Europlex Technologies Verifier Alarm,

alarm has worked great for many years,

lately the back door sensor has being going of at night by itself I reckon,

when I check the panel it mentions back door but also mentions low battery,low battery is not mentioned at any other time on the panel..

Not sure if a low battery could make it do this, or if it is coincidental,??

I opened the panel the battery looks a little corroded
it is a Yuasa NP2.8-12 12v 2.8ah I will replace it ,

I think I need to power of mains and replace the battery , and use master code 1020 to stop its siren,

does this sound okay ??
as I am not familiar with alarms .

I will be ordering the battery from here,link below
as I cannot seem to find it locally in Dublin.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/NP2-8-12-VRSLA-12v-2-8Ah-Yuasa-Lead-Acid-Battery-/140622992867 approx 20 euro inc postage I reckon.

Is there any way i can determine the model of my Alarm as I would also like to find the user manual and installer manual too,

If any one has these Manuals sure would appreciate it.

thanks
chessguy

KoolKid

OK, a couple of things here.
If the same zone is activating, its more likely there is a faulty sensor or contact on that zone. There is some information in this thread on how to check the resistance and identify faulty sensors.
The battery should be replaced. You could source them from any of the suppliers listed here
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055956748
If you power off the mains while changing the battery the external bell may sound when you disconnect the battery & mains power.
This can not be silenced by a code as the keypad will be dead. When you reapply the power you can disarm the system with your usual alarm code.
The panel model may be displayed on the main PCB when you open the panel.
Also is there 6 or 8 zones on board?
I will PM you the most likely manuals.

chessguy

Thanks

Koolkid I will check in the morning and get back,

chessguy

chessguy

Thanks koolkid , I got the Manuals
to me it they look similar my guess is it is the 24-64

what do you think ?
I attached some pics
Main pic that is unclear should show a serial number£10021 on one of the big chips , not sure if that is of any use, but i could not see anything that would help me identify the Model.

These 3 do look similar to me..

verifier 24-64
verifier 6
verifier DD243

I also notice when I view logs now it only shows logs for the year 97,

the first time i scrolled through there was a complete list , this morning.

Now it just shows several events for the year 97 when i scroll through,


Even though I set the alarm of just now,

Thanks chessguy

KoolKid

Has the system defaulted?
Do your user codes still work ? Are all zone descriptions still there?

chessguy

Koolkid,

If I set the alarm , and make it go off it signals which door has triggered the alarm,


Has the system defaulted?

I do not think it has defaulted because of the above.

Do your user codes still work ?
I can still set and unset the alarm.

Are all zone descriptions still there?
Not sure how to check this,

thanks
chessguy

KoolKid

I presume you are not using the factory codes. When the alarm activates & you disarm it does it show the zone name?

chessguy

Koolkid,

it does for example say back door,
But does not mention the word zone.

chessguy

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

I presume you are not using the factory codes. When the alarm activates & you disarm it does it show the zone name?

I just sent a PM
re codes
I know I can always change the code when all is back to normal,

chessguy

KoolKid

Those are the factory codes. Its possible the system has defaulted 7 will need to be reprogrammed.

chessguy

if defaulted would it still say back door,

anyway I can check if it has defaulted ??

chessguy

KoolKid

No there should be no zone descriptions just zone numbers etc.
Have a look over the manuals I sent you & you will see all the default settings.

chessguy

will get back when the battery is changed ,

and manuals read

thanks

may be a few days before battery is changed


chessguy

chessguy

chessguy wrote: »

Thanks koolkid , I got the Manuals
to me it they look similar my guess is it is the 24-64

what do you think ?
I attached some pics
Main pic that is unclear should show a serial number£10021 on one of the big chips , not sure if that is of any use, but i could not see anything that would help me identify the Model.

These 3 do look similar to me..

verifier 24-64
verifier 6
verifier DD243

I also notice when I view logs now it only shows logs for the year 97,

the first time i scrolled through there was a complete list , this morning.

Now it just shows several events for the year 97 when i scroll through,


Even though I set the alarm of just now,

Thanks chessguy

Hi just a thought, I got the battery,

if turn the Alarm of at the mains i understand the outside bell will go off till i replace this battery , and turn the alert of, thats fine.

would this cause it to loose its settings or are they saved by the battery outside ,

Does the outside box also have a battery just like this one ?

I understand the battery is only 12 volts so is it okay to change it while mains power is on long as i don't touch the main board

thanks
chessguy.

KoolKid

If your comfortable and confident working with the mains on then that's fine to do.
However from what your saying about the log the system may be defaulted anyway.

chessguy

Thanks, yes I am quite comfortable working that way I do quite a few electrical parts replacements , cars and servers,etc

thanks
chessguy

KoolKid

Swap out the battery so and take it from there.

chessguy

Hi the SAB tamper has gone of randomly a few times ,the alarm was not set,at these times.

started with the stormy weather , now it seems random it has done it 4 times in all
i know it an old Europlex verifier alarm pics of it in my previous posts,

Any way i can disable this , till i get a permanent fix , it is set for 15 mins as i recall.or even disable the whole alarm unit.

what i did so far i opened the actual cabinet box in the house to ensure that was not the cause but when that is open it displays cabinet tamper so i am pretty sure it is the outside bell box ...imho..
as the alarm message was SAB tamper

thanks
chessguy

KoolKid

If its showing SAB tamper remove the resistor from the bell and place in in the panel across Bell Hold Off (BHO) & tamper Return (TR) Take out the cable from the TR terminal but leave the cable in the BHO terminal along with the other side of the resistor.

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

If its showing SAB tamper remove the resistor from the bell and place in in the panel across Bell Hold Off (BHO) & tamper Return (TR) Take out the cable from the TR terminal but leave the cable in the BHO terminal along with the other side of the resistor.

Koolkid that was fast,,

Sab tamper is off now as i used code to unset alarm,
but the steps above do they need to be done from outside bell box ?
As i cannot get to it it is high up ,

any way i can disable it from the cabinet box or alarm panel with engineer code,
or put it in engineer mode so it basically does nothing.

thanks for the super fast reply.

KoolKid

If you have a spare resistor you can do it all from the panel..
Other option is put it into engineer mode & disconnect the external bell from the panel & let it run down. (Approx 20 minutes)

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

If you have a spare resistor you can do it all from the panel..
Other option is put it into engineer mode & disconnect the external bell from the panel & let it run down. (Approx 20 minutes)

thanks koolkid
Spare resistor what resistance should it be and does it matter ,
guess i could get one tomorrow,

if i use a resistor can the alarm still function as normal without the (outside bell box tamper option) this sounds a great option , if possible,

If the the outside bell box tamper is permanently disabled , that's fine with me ..
and i expect if the battery in it failed it would still alarm is that correct.
well i think it has one in it like the Main cabinet box ?


The option of putting it in Engineer Mode and disconnecting the external bell box from the panel ,

guess i will need to know which wires are involved and how many, guess it will sound when 1 of them is disconnected ?( then do i just let it ring out or look for more wires

will they all need to be disconnected ... or one perhaps this is a last resort..

thanks
chessguy

KoolKid

Its a 470ohm resistor. There is often a spare one left in the panel.
If you can get one of them it would be your easiest option and it should leave the bell working?

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

Its a 470ohm resistor. There is often a spare one left in the panel.
If you can get one of them it would be your easiest option and it should leave the bell working?

Koolkid
quick check so all from the panel as i cannot get to external bell box

So in the panel resistor goes across Bell Hold Off (BHO) & tamper Return (TR) and i Take out the cable from the TR terminal but leave the cable in the BHO terminal along with the other side of the resistor.

can i do this with power on ?

I know the engineer code and master code too ?
we still have it set to master code from the day we got it

if i put the engineer code in when it beeps will that stop alarm going off
thanks

chessguy

KoolKid

Hi.
Yes your wiring description is correct. Putting the resistor in the panel can be done while it is powered up. However do be aware there is mains voltages present at the power supply.
Leaving the panel in engineer mode may stop it activating, but the bell tamper may still activate the external bell.

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

Hi.
Yes your wiring description is correct. Putting the resistor in the panel can be done while it is powered up. However do be aware there is mains voltages present at the power supply.
Leaving the panel in engineer mode may stop it activating, but the bell tamper may still activate the external bell.

Perfect thanks i will look at this when i am home from work
by the way normally when the alarm goes of for any reason we put the code in twice once to stop it second time to clear reset it ,
since we got the alarm our daily code has been the Master code xx20.

last night when it went out off i put Master code in once XX20 and let it just flash with SAB tamper , then i did not hear it again so this keeps the peace , till i get it sorted or was it coincidence it did not ring again or is this what this code does?

BTW what is difference between Default engineer code xx10
and default master code xx20

i know a lot of questions excuse me ,

and thanks a lot
chessguy

KoolKid

The engineer code give you access to a different menu for programming the panel.

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

The engineer code give you access to a different menu for programming the panel.

Koolkid thanks

last night when it went out off i put Master code in once XX20 and let it just flash with SAB tamper , then i did not hear it again so this keeps the peace , till i get it sorted or was it coincidence it did not ring again or is this what this code does? does this code acknowledge the fault and stop the alarm going off ?
If that is iits function its good them if i ever have alarm issues i cna use it that way

so is master code XX20 for programming and xx10 default engineer code for when it is being worked upon to say stop alarms going off etc

thanks again chessguy

KoolKid

Do you have the engineer manual for this system?

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

Do you have the engineer manual for this system?

Hi Koolkid unfortunately not sure which model alarm it is
but from a prev post i posted

I got the Manuals
to me it they look similar my guess is it is the 24-64

what do you think ?
I attached some pics
Main pic that is unclear should show a serial number£10021 on one of the big chips , not sure if that is of any use, but i could not see anything that would help me identify the Model.

These 3 do look similar to me..

verifier 24-64
verifier 6
verifier DD243


Attached Images i guess these links will not work but they are in my postin this thread from 03-03-2013, 17:06
File Type: jpg key pad .JPG (144.9 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg full on.JPG (430.6 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg top left.JPG (271.4 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg bottom left.JPG (298.8 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg PICT0096.JPG (281.6 KB, 30 views)

thanks chessguy

KoolKid

I'll PM you the engineer manual I have. It will probably explain the codes to you better than I am.

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

I'll PM you the engineer manual I have. It will probably explain the codes to you better than I am.

Thanks for the manual sure looks like this alarm , will go through it later when i get home

hope i can get a tall ladder to check , could be tamper switch in bellbox is just caught and needs pressing depressing or perhaps the cover is a little loose from the storm,

Koolkid just another query as if there were not enough (yikes)

last night when it went out off i put Master code in once XX20(normally we put it in twice to stop its noise and to clear the flashing fault led ,

and i let it just flash with SAB tamper , then i did not hear it again so this keeps the peace , till i get it sorted or was it coincidence it did not ring again or is this what this code does? does this code acknowledge the fault and stop the alarm going off ?

If that is its function its good them if i ever have alarm issues i can use it that way

for anyone following this post i just found
The Installer/Engineer Code is overall the highest level code. It will do MOST of what the MASTER code can do, and far more.



thanks chessguy

chessguy

chessguy wrote: »

Thanks for the manual sure looks like this alarm , will go through it later when i get home

hope i can get a tall ladder to check , could be tamper switch in bellbox is just caught and needs pressing depressing or perhaps the cover is a little loose from the storm,

Koolkid just another query as if there were not enough (yikes)

last night when it went out off i put Master code in once XX20(normally we put it in twice to stop its noise and to clear the flashing fault led ,

and i let it just flash with SAB tamper , then i did not hear it again so this keeps the peace , till i get it sorted or was it coincidence it did not ring again or is this what this code does? does this code acknowledge the fault and stop the alarm going off ?

If that is its function its good them if i ever have alarm issues i can use it that way

for anyone following this post i just found
The Installer/Engineer Code is overall the highest level code. It will do MOST of what the MASTER code can do, and far more.



thanks chessguy

koolkid i just checked the manual thx it's real handy to have.

I opened the control panel
noticed the external bell output was barely hanging on so i secured this cable,but i don't think could this have been the cause ??

this post has an attachment
i got some resistors from a buddy, just need to check the colours,
and values ,

so the resistor goes across Bell Hold Off (BHO) & tamper Return (TR)

But the attachment shows tamper return and VE under the SAB bracket so i reckon it is these too i use ( see the attachment)

does that sound right ,
BTW i spoke to the guy who installed the alarm , he recommend the same fix ,unfortunately he is on vacation,


thanks
chessguy


have issues with the attachment will put it in next post

chessguy

chessguy wrote: »

koolkid i just checked the manual thx it's real handy to have.

I opened the control panel
noticed the external bell output was barely hanging on so i secured this cable,but i don't think could this have been the cause ??

this post has an attachment
i got some resistors from a buddy, just need to check the colours,
and values ,

so the resistor goes across Bell Hold Off (BHO) & tamper Return (TR)

But the attachment shows tamper return and VE under the SAB bracket so i reckon it is these too i use ( see the attachment)

does that sound right ,
BTW i spoke to the guy who installed the alarm , he recommend the same fix ,unfortunately he is on vacation,


thanks
chessguy


have issues with the attachment will put it in next post

with attachment i hope

KoolKid

Yes the VE is bell hold off.
Here is a calc for resistors.

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

Yes the VE is bell hold off.
Here is a calc for resistors.

great now just need to find my glasses i have 5 band resistors

this might sound funny but not sure which end of the resistor to start from

chessguy

KoolKid

You know by the spacing.
Here explains it better.

chessguy

chessguy wrote: »

great now just need to find my glasses i have 5 band resistors

this might sound funny but not sure which end of the resistor to start from

chessguy

found one here 2 http://www.digikey.com/us/en/mkt/calculators/5-band-resistors.html

my pal says these are 1 k or 2 k
i guess i can try with one , for 1 k

then if no joy i can try with 2 paired together reckon that would half the resistance ,

buddy said these use around 1 k in the bellbox

thanks chessguy

KoolKid

Your looking for 470 ohms. So 2 1k resistors in parallel will give you 500ohms.
That should do it.

chessguy

KoolKid wrote: »

Your looking for 470 ohms. So 2 1k resistors in parallel will give you 500ohms.
That should do it.

great thanks just found my old meter
they are 2.2k circa




would i know straight away if the resistors are good enough or would it maybe take a few hours for the SAB tamper alert

will try tomorrow thanks koolkid

KoolKid

Try 4 of them in parallel it might get you close enough.
I think there is a fair bit of tolerance on that return. I remember using 2 680 ohm resistors , being stuck one day, that would have been 340 ohms & it held up ok.

chessguy

Tried with resistors,
checked they all worked , held well for a while but turned out to be a return wire in the actual bell box was faulty got it replaced by the alarm installer just now and all seems good .


koolkid thanks a lot for your help it is really appreciated.
and the seasons greetings too.

KoolKid

That's the zone that needs to be checked so.

ted1

Hi guys moved into a house last may, the alarm was powered down when we moved in.

Its a verifier 6 installed in 97.

Can so one send on the manual so I can try to get it working. Thanks.

KoolKid

PMed you that manual.;)

Animal Bar

Hi Koolkid,

Can you please send me the manual for the verifier 6.

Can I disconnect the siren until I can ger the service engineer out. What wires do I need to remove in the cabinet?

Thanks

KoolKid

I sent you that manual.
Look for the internal and external - connections and disconnect those for now.