combo Van powerless @3000rpm

TmacR

my head is done in with this Van 05 in year with only 67000 kilometres but it wont go over 100kph as warning light in dash comes on....had it checked the code read P0108 manifold absolute pressure...... replaced the sensor cleared the code but the darn thing doing the same thing, giving off the same code too,Egr valve was replaced new recently along with the plastic intercooler pipe but still i cant solve the problem,,,,,,,am dreading the news of turbo failure but am baffled by the map sensor code still registering a fault,,,,,,, anyone been in this situation if so what was your way to solve it,,, im thinkin petrol and a match :mad:

Pottler

TmacR wrote: »

my head is done in with this Van 05 in year with only 67000 kilometres but it wont go over 100kph as warning light in dash comes on....had it checked the code read P0108 manifold absolute pressure...... replaced the sensor cleared the code but the darn thing doing the same thing, giving off the same code too,Egr valve was replaced new recently along with the plastic intercooler pipe but still i cant solve the problem,,,,,,,am dreading the news of turbo failure but am baffled by the map sensor code still registering a fault,,,,,,, anyone been in this situation if so what was your way to solve it,,, im thinkin petrol and a match :mad:

did you stick in a new Maf? Put one in. Usually, it and the egr being snorked at the same time will throw the map fault and kill the power. New MAF, should set you back about €70.00.

TmacR

air flow meter was replaced already so am at my wits end whats getting on my wick is the fact the same fault code shows up on diagnostic even with new sensor fitted... map sensor should be hitting 4.5 volts but the new and old sensor only reach 3.5... i'd burn it only insurance would prob just replace it with like for like van

paultronix

did you check continuity between the sensor and ecu?

Pottler

TmacR wrote: »

air flow meter was replaced already so am at my wits end whats getting on my wick is the fact the same fault code shows up on diagnostic even with new sensor fitted... map sensor should be hitting 4.5 volts but the new and old sensor only reach 3.5... i'd burn it only insurance would prob just replace it with like for like van

Checked all the earths and associated wiring for high resistances? Also try substituting the new maf with a known good item from another van, new does not always mean working ok. Failing that, or somthing obvious being overlooked, an ECU fault would not be unheard of on those vans.

crosshair1

Where are you getting the 3.5v from, serial data or multimeter?
~P0108 suggest a map sensor output too high, what is the voltage from the sensor at key on engine off, if you clear the fault when does it come back .. after a drive or immediately on ignition.
If you disconnect the sensor do you have a voltage on the signal wire?

Pottler

Could this be somthing as simple as a split vacuum hose somwhere hidden?

Lucifer

First thing I would check is your boost solenoid with that trouble code on that engine. If that checks out ok, check your wastegate on the turbo to see if it is stiff. They can stick closed and create too much boost and the engine cuts power to prevent damage and gives you this trouble code.

TmacR

thanks a mill to everyone for your advice and opinions........ as for my volt reading well im getting it from specific autodata live feed diagnostics its gives out current volts and compares it to what ya should be actually getting but i do believe that a reading can be affected by altitude or somethin like that........all wires ave been checked cleaned and all pipes taken off and mildly pressure tested but no leaks,so once it was all back together i took it out for a drive and noticed something by chance....if i drive it hardish up through the gears power cuts off between 80 & 100 kpg BUT if the van is driven gentlyish well it will easily hit 130kph...am wondering if maybe there is a reason for this and in some strange way could it affect the map sensor reading....... Again guys thanks for all the feed back much appreciated

Lucifer

As I said above, check the wastegate to see if it is stiff. I have seen these where they stick closed building too much pressure from the turbo, and to prevent damage the ECU cuts engine power.

When you drive it harder you give it the chance for it to built too much boost pressure. Under normal conditions the wastegate, which is controlled by vacuum and a solenoid, will control the amount of boost pressure it wants to create. With the wastegate sticking, it cannot control it so it kills power.

bandit14

New stuff on market to clean egr valve and general intake system whilecar is running,spray into intake manifold at 2000rpm
magic tack especially on opels,"JLM egr spray"

TmacR

damned waste gate is seized open on turbo and wont budge but least im gettin nearer my way out.......... thanks for all the replys been appreciated