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rust primer

  • 31-08-2012 10:28pm
    #1
    have2flushtwice
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭


    hi guys
    I want to treat a bit of rust on my tractor, and there may be some knowledge in here that I can tap into.

    The problem lies between two panels, there is rust on one panel, more so than the other panel.
    What I an going to do is get my air nibbler, and cut back the rusty bit, and then cut some tin to replace it. The tin will overlap, and i will hold it in position with pop rivets.
    I have a mig welder, but am not too hot on it yet, so i would prefer to use the rivets to hold it in position instead of spot welding it.
    I intend to get better at it, but it will take time.


    heres the specifics!
    Firstly, When I have the overlap created by one panel resting on the other, there will be a very small "shelf" created. i would expect it will be 1-1.5mm. Will a primer smooth this out, or should I use a little filler, and if so which filler or primer? I know there are some primers which will fill in paint blemishes. I can lay this in a few times to take care of the "shelf if necessary.

    Secondly,
    is there a different primer used for tin or galvanised tin?
    If so, i can put this on the tin piece before its riveted into position.

    Thirdly, rust primer: i will be taking away as much rust as possible. if there is paint that is loose, this will come off as well. will the rust primer stop any remaining rust coming out? (bits that i may miss, of a bit under the paint?!) rust primer as opposed to a standard primer - which would normally go over a bit of filler.
    The reason i ask this is because in the past, i sanded a rim, primed and resprayed. looked great, and after a few weeks rust spots began to come out through the paint.
    cheers!


Comments

  • #2
    Pottler
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,073 ✭✭✭Pottler


    1-1.5mm is not a blemish, it's a chasm, and no, nothing I have ever come across will prevent rust recurring, except zinc-dipping - no matter what people tell you. You are just trying to re-create factory fresh conditions without the factory fresh materials. Loads of spoofers will now come on to tell you to use "this and that", but apart from loads of seam-sealer, loads of zinc rich primer, and no illusions that it is anything but temporary, it's temporary. Or get it dipped.:)


  • #3
    have2flushtwice
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    thanks pottler,
    any idea where to get the zinc rich primer around dublin?

    i rreplaced a door piece yesterday, riveted a panel into place and gouged out some rusty bits, and filled and sanded another piece yestersay. it was on a different panel, the whole machine is rough so i wasnt too worried if it went wrong. but it came up pretty well.
    thanks


  • #4
    dhog4n
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 147 ✭✭dhog4n


    The most effective rust primer I have found is Owatrol CP. I don't believe for a minute that it is a better product dry than some others but it takes a lot longer than other paints to dry and cure so it seems to penetrate the rust better before doing its thing. The bottom line is that I have tried most things and it's the only one I haven't had to revisit so far. I used it on my 1983 Fiat X1/9 three years ago and it is holding up just fine.

    If you are riveting the joint you are going to create a starting point for rust by penetrating the metal and it's coatings, creating a moisture trap between the sheets and possibly some bimetal corrosion due to metallic coatings as well. All avoidable with effective rust products but even more so if you can avoid using this type of joint.


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