Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

In-line -v- Set Back Seat Post

  • 25-08-2012 11:48pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭


    I had my bike fit 2 weeks ago and during it i had the stem changed to a shorter (90mm) one and then the guy flipped it. I also changed my saddle and the bike is so much more comfortable now and i no longer get a pain in my neck or numb nuts after an hour in the saddle....however i find myself constantly moving my rear back on the saddle to the wider section but my natural position seems to be further forward which places me on the narrow end of the saddle. I dont want to change the stem again and i like the handle bar position and its comfortable. My current seat post is a 4ZA Stratos with 25mm offset, I have the saddle as far forward as it can go. I reckon that 5-10mm further forward and i will have my optimum saddle position so i figured change the seat post to one with zero offset which will allow me move the saddle forward a bit. What i need to know is this the correct way to do it or should i change the stem again for a shorter one? Are there shorter than 90mm stems available?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,783 ✭✭✭RidleyRider


    I have a 60mm stem, you can find them if you look hard enough. Is the bike too big for you that your always moving forward?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    I have a 60mm stem, you can find them if you look hard enough. Is the bike too big for you that your always moving forward?


    I'm 5'11" and 3/4 so just under 6ft. The bike is a medium Ridley which equates to a 56cm frame roughly. I tried a 54 Felt before buying this bike and felt it was too small for me and the guy in the LBS said the bike was the correct size for me.

    The previous stem was 100 or 110 and the new one is 90. I think I'd prefer to change the seat post as that allows much more adjustability than change the stem again.

    Can anyone explain why there are set back and in line seat posts. Do either offer any advantages over the other, like why do most bikes come with one with a set back angled top as opposed to a straight in line one?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    Went for excellent bike fit last week. Set back on saddle is biggest issue he come across. Stop buying stuff, get fitted to bike. No cantilever on zero set back seatpost so should be cheap and sound. C999;80455430]
    I have a 60mmstem, you can find them if you look hard enough. Is the bike too big for you that your always moving forward?


    I'm 5'11" and 3/4 so just under 6ft. The bike is a medium Ridley which equates to a 56cm frame roughly. I tried a 54 Felt before buying this bike and felt it was too small for me and the guy in the LBS said the bike was the correct size for me.

    The previous stem was 100 or 110 and the new one is 90. I think I'd prefer to change the seat post as that allows much more adjustability than change the stem again.

    Can anyone explain why there are set back and in line seat posts. Do either offer any advantages over the other, like why do most bikes come with one with a set back angled top as opposed to a straight in line one?[/Quote]


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    ford2600 wrote: »
    Went for excellent bike fit last week. Set back on saddle is biggest issue he come across. Stop buying stuff, get fitted to bike. No cantilever on zero set back seatpost so should be cheap and sound.

    I did get fitted to the bike. He didnt have any shorter stems in stock and so 90mm had to do. He did say that with another 5-10mm saddle adjustment i'd be in a more suitable position but with the equipment i had at that time it was the best he could do. He said he could get me a shorter stem but that it may take a few days so i decided to go ahead with what he already had and i'd look for another stem or zero set back seat post my self.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    Sorry misread your post was on mobile.

    Moving saddle forward isn't same thing as using shorter stem.

    Changing saddle changes postion of your legs during stroke and in particular your knee relative to centre of crank.

    Your most comfortable positon might be with saddle 25 mm furhter forward with a longer stem?
    CJC999 wrote: »
    I did get fitted to the bike. He didnt have any shorter stems in stock and so 90mm had to do. He did say that with another 5-10mm saddle adjustment i'd be in a more suitable position but with the equipment i had at that time it was the best he could do. He said he could get me a shorter stem but that it may take a few days so i decided to go ahead with what he already had and i'd look for another stem or zero set back seat post my self.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,200 ✭✭✭manwithaplan


    First make sure your saddle is level (I'm sure it is!).

    You can't just find the optimal distance from bars to saddle and achieve it with any combination of saddle or stem adjustments. You have to also consider where a set up places you in terms of position over the bottom bracket. There's a load of stuff out there on this but basically make sure you don't end up placing yourself too far forward.

    Also, you might want to ride it in the current set up for a little longer. Without going to extremes, I have made set up changes to deliver more power/get more aero which didn't feel comfortable at first but now feel fine. It's fair enough to adjust your current set up to see what feels best but it's no harm to be sure you have a problem before you buy new stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    First make sure your saddle is level (I'm sure it is!).

    You can't just find the optimal distance from bars to saddle and achieve it with any combination of saddle or stem adjustments. You have to also consider where a set up places you in terms of position over the bottom bracket. There's a load of stuff out there on this but basically make sure you don't end up placing yourself too far forward.

    Also, you might want to ride it in the current set up for a little longer. Without going to extremes, I have made set up changes to deliver more power/get more aero which didn't feel comfortable at first but now feel fine. It's fair enough to adjust your current set up to see what feels best but it's no harm to be sure you have a problem before you buy new stuff.

    Ok thanks for that. My leg/knee position in relation to the Pedal/crank is near optimum according to the guy that done the bike fit and hills are definitely easier with the new set up so yeah I might just leave the current set up for a while and see if i can 'settle' into it better.


Advertisement