Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Aritech CS 250 / open zone

  • 16-08-2012 1:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 373 ✭✭


    Hi Guys, hope you can help..

    After recent power failure my system started showing 'open zone' on the hall PIR. When I walk in front of it there is no red light, and I've been inhibiting it manually before arming.

    As it's been installed a few years I thought I would replace it, however when I installed the new PIR (same model) it now gives a tamper fault and still open zone.

    It's wired as follows

    1 - Red
    2 - Black
    3 - Yellow & Resistor1
    4 - Resistor1 & Resistor2
    5 - Blue
    6 - Resistor2

    Any ideas what's wrong or how to test/resolve?


    Ed


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Edser wrote: »
    Hi Guys, hope you can help..

    After recent power failure my system started showing 'open zone' on the hall PIR. When I walk in front of it there is no red light, and I've been inhibiting it manually before arming.

    As it's been installed a few years I thought I would replace it, however when I installed the new PIR (same model) it now gives a tamper fault and still open zone.

    It's wired as follows

    1 - Red
    2 - Black
    3 - Yellow & Resistor1
    4 - Resistor1 & Resistor2
    5 - Blue
    6 - Resistor2

    Any ideas what's wrong or how to test/resolve?


    Ed

    That would indicate a problem with either the power cable going to the detector or the detector its self. You will need a meter to test for voltage at either end plus to test the cable. If you do have voltage then replacing the detector will fix the issue for you.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    On the new PiR is the LED lighting when it detects movement.
    If its wired correctly & the lid is closed correctly you should only get an open zone on a power fault & not a tamper condition.
    If you could post up a pic of the new detector wired we can confirm everything is correct. Also bear in mind some new detectors come with built in resistors so read over the instruction carefully.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 373 ✭✭Edser


    altor wrote: »
    That would indicate a problem with either the power cable going to the detector or the detector its self. You will need a meter to test for voltage at either end plus to test the cable. If you do have voltage then replacing the detector will fix the issue for you.

    Thanks I'll check the voltages tonight. What should they be?

    I've already tried replacing the PIR.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 373 ✭✭Edser


    KoolKid wrote: »
    On the new PiR is the LED lighting when it detects movement.
    If its wired correctly & the lid is closed correctly you should only get an open zone on a power fault & not a tamper condition.
    If you could post up a pic of the new detector wired we can confirm everything is correct. Also bear in mind some new detectors come with built in resistors so read over the instruction carefully.

    It's strange, on the normal setting it doesn't seem to light. On the high (more sensitive) setting it is nearly constantly on.

    I'll check the instructions tonight and try to throw up a pic.

    PS. PIR senor is an Intellisense IS-215t. I suppose the new one could be faulty too.

    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Edser wrote: »
    Thanks I'll check the voltages tonight. What should they be?

    I've already tried replacing the PIR.

    Around 12-14 volts dc would be the norm. If its lighting that should be ok.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Edser wrote: »
    It's strange, on the normal setting it doesn't seem to light. On the high (more sensitive) setting it is nearly constantly on.

    I'll check the instructions tonight and try to throw up a pic.

    PS. PIR senor is an Intellisense IS-215t. I suppose the new one could be faulty too.

    Thanks.

    The more sensitive you make it the more easier it is to pick you up walking in front of it. No harm in that. If you now have the light coming on can you test the open/close with no movement in front of the detector to see if it is now showing closed?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 373 ✭✭Edser


    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for all your advice. I got home too late to test last night and away now for the weekend, so I'll update next week.

    Ed


Advertisement