Planet X SL Pro Carbon, opinions?

Seaneh

Right lads, thinking of saving up and getting a planet x SL Pro from the lads in Athlone (€50 more than from the .co.uk website, but I'd be able to try it in the shop and won't have to build it.

It's €1300 in Athlone, Specs are :

Full Spec:
Shifters: SRAM Rival
Rear Mech: SRAM Rival
Front Mech: SRAM Rival
Chainset: Sram Apex Mirror Black 50-34T
Cassette: SRAM PG1050 11-26
Chain: SRAM PC1051
Bars: Planet X Road Bar Strada Shallow Drop
Stem: Planet X Superlight Team 3D Forged Stem
Headset: FSA Orbit CE
Saddle: Planet X Superlight Team Saddle
Seatpost: Planet X Superlight Team 3D Forged Alloy 31.6 mm
Tyres: Schwalbe Lugano
Wheelset: Planet X AL30


I remember a few years ago people were wary about the build quality of Planet X bikes but now I seem to see that they are greatly improved and a lot of high class riders seem to be using them.

Any have any opinions on that bike at hat price or general opinions of PX bikes from experience?

Cheers.

CHIPPY1979

Wheels are rubbish and get a 53 39 for the chain set, other than that A1

Seaneh

I've read some bad stuff about the barings in the wheels but everything besides that one thing seems to be positive. Extremely light wheels for the money and new barings are only €25 anyway.

Apparently PX will give you credit for the cost of the baring replacement if they fail too...

Coronal

I have one, great bike. The wheels are fine, I toured on the PX model Bs last year and still have no issues with them after several thousand kms. I'd be inclined to leave the gearing as it is with the 50-34, you probably don't need the 53 ring, and the lower gearing is nice to have for hills.

mloc123

CHIPPY1979 wrote: »

get a 53 39 for the chain set, other than that A1

Eh, that's a bad thing... How?

Edit: sorry, misread that as 'you get a std double'... Yup see if they will swap out the compact.

alexanderomahon

Had mine for over year and very happy for the price.

Seaneh

Coronal wrote: »

I have one, great bike. The wheels are fine, I toured on the PX model Bs last year and still have no issues with them after several thousand kms. I'd be inclined to leave the gearing as it is with the 50-34, you probably don't need the 53 ring, and the lower gearing is nice to have for hills.

I'd def be getting the compact, im a big lad, hills conspire against me.

Will be getting the 11-28 cassette too, just to be sure to be sure I can take it handy around the hills.

harringtonp

Seaneh wrote: »

I'd def be getting the compact, im a big lad, hills conspire against me.

Will be getting the 11-28 cassette too, just to be sure to be sure I can take it handy around the hills.

I got a Planet X SL Pro Carbon a few years back from the UK. Great component spec for the price I paid. Very happy with it. Got a compact 50/34 chainring, after a trip to Lanzarote this year where I felt I was missing gears at either end, I switched the 25/12 cassette that came with the bike for a 28/11. So I'd naturally agree which that configuration.

It came with the Model B wheelset, good set of wheels for the price.

youtheman

I bought a Planet X bike (RT-57) from Athlone earlier this year. Love the bike, but two comments:

1. it was billed as 'Full Sram Red', but it wasn't. The shifters, front and rear DRs were, the cranks were FSA (actually more expensive than Sram red), but the brakes and cassette were not Sram.
2. the brakes are absolute crap - Planet x Ultra Light CNC (not at actually stopping, but keep getting stuck 'on'). So they are the first thing I'm going to change.

If you are not into racing then I'd suggest the Compact (50/34) with an 11/28 cassette, that will get you up any hill in Ireland (it does if for me).

Icyseanfitz

youtheman wrote: »

I bought a Planet X bike (RT-57) from Athlone earlier this year. Love the bike, but two comments:

1. it was billed as 'Full Sram Red', but it wasn't. The shifters, front and rear DRs were, the cranks were FSA (actually more expensive than Sram red), but the brakes and cassette were not Sram.
2. the brakes are absolute crap - Planet x Ultra Light CNC (not at actually stopping, but keep getting stuck 'on'). So they are the first thing I'm going to change.

If you are not into racing then I'd suggest the Compact (50/34) with an 11/28 cassette, that will get you up any hill in Ireland (it does if for me).

im actually thinking of buying a set for my bike, you sure that there just not on right?

youtheman

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

im actually thinking of buying a set for my bike, you sure that there just not on right?

They are on the way they were supplied. I've had trouble with the front and back brakes.

One thing I don't like is that there is no easy cable adjustment, to counter either brake pad wear, or to allow you remove the wheel. You can disconnect the cable from the brake altogether, which allows you to remove the wheel, but it doesn't have the 1/4 turn facility you'd have on a Shimano brake, or any other brake I've ever seen.

We have a professional bike mechanic who cycles with us, and he is also of the opinion that they are crap (he actually held back when he was giving me his opinion as he didn't want to rubbish my new 'baby').

But maybe I'm just unlucky, interetsted to see what other people say.

Icyseanfitz

they are super light weight though :pac:

youtheman

Found a good thread on the Plane X CNC brakes here http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=60313 There is some negative feedback, though it's not all bad. I must trawl through it at my leisure to see if there is a 'silver bullet' for my particular gripe.

Icyseanfitz

what i would do if i where you and say the left or right brake pads on the brakes move into contact with the rim after a bit of use (is this what you mean by sticking?), id take the actual brake off the bike and re tighten it, the brakes could be on too loose which would lead to the "sticking", thats what i would try first if i had that problem

youtheman

Thanks for the advice. I've always wondered if the caliper is supposed to be 'locked' in position, or should there be some slack so that it will center itself. You may have solved the problem with my rear brake.

But I have a different problem with the front brake. If I pull it hard then I can feel play in the brake lever when I release it (due to cable which is now loose) and this confirms that the front brake is stuck partially 'on'. I have to open it by hand, and there is a very definite 'click' as the caliper 'unsticks'. The little red lever on the side of the brake has a cam at the end, I think if you don't have the cable tension right then its possible to pull the lever up too far and get it actually stuck in the caliper.

Icyseanfitz

having never worked on the brakes i cant really say much, the brakes are meant to have a little give so that they can be centered by hand ie not locked in place, as for the front when you pull the lever the pads move in towards the rim right? if i was having the problem you described id first off remove the cable from the brake, remove the brake from the fork, re attach the brake, put the cable back in and make sure you have the cable tightened enough so it cant slip when you pull the lever.

failing that id look at the quick release system to see if that was setup right (those brakes have a slightly different system as far as i know)

Sorry to op for going off topic my bad :pac:

ratracer

I bought mine in Athlone about two and a half years ago with a full Ultegra build. I haven't had any problems with it in that time. The only small issue was a small rattle developed somewhere rdcently that i just couldn't isolate, even with the collective knowledge of the folks on here. However after the tour de burren this rattle seems to have gotten washed out. I never used the wheels, i swapped them for my mavic aksiums on day one.
Imnow considering changing the frame for the RT57 one, but simply because i feel the sloping geometry frame of the sl is a little small for me. I have large size, I'm 6'2".

rp

youtheman wrote: »

Thanks for the advice. I've always wondered if the caliper is supposed to be 'locked' in position, or should there be some slack so that it will center itself. You may have solved the problem with my rear brake.

But I have a different problem with the front brake. If I pull it hard then I can feel play in the brake lever when I release it (due to cable which is now loose) and this confirms that the front brake is stuck partially 'on'. I have to open it by hand, and there is a very definite 'click' as the caliper 'unsticks'. The little red lever on the side of the brake has a cam at the end, I think if you don't have the cable tension right then its possible to pull the lever up too far and get it actually stuck in the caliper.

Sorry about resurrecting an old thread, but my Planet-X calipers have just started doing exactly what you describe. They are fine until there is some wear on the pads, and then the little cam lever is getting near top-dead-centre, it locks the brake against the rim, just as you describe. I've temporarily fixed it by adding a washer between the brake arm and shoe, but I don't like that as a long term solution. It might be that the little roller on the cam lever is no longer rotating, must try and wd40 that tonight.

youtheman

rp wrote: »

Sorry about resurrecting an old thread, but my Planet-X calipers have just started doing exactly what you describe. They are fine until there is some wear on the pads, and then the little cam lever is getting near top-dead-centre, it locks the brake against the rim, just as you describe. I've temporarily fixed it by adding a washer between the brake arm and shoe, but I don't like that as a long term solution. It might be that the little roller on the cam lever is no longer rotating, must try and wd40 that tonight.

Your problem is quite simple, your brake pads are worn. The more they wear the more the cam lever has to raise (to squeeze the pads in) and the closer the cam gets to 'top dead centre'. Once it gets to TDC then it can 'go over the top' and there is no return (your brakes are locked on). This is the one featrure I hate about that type of brake, and the reason I replaced them on my bike.

If you have these brakes then you needs to replace the pads once they begin to show signs of excessive wear.