shotgun restoration

anthonyos

has any body ever restored a shotgun??? mine is a bit rough was thinking of doing a job on it without it ending up to tacky...i think the previous owner may have done some work on it..

EWQuinn

http://www.ramanon.com/forum/showthread.php?65645-Restoring-a-50-year-old-shotgun

Here's one pretty good and simple job a guy did on an old bolt gun. Careful not to encroach on wifey's turf.

This guy has a nice piece on restoring a Wingmaster:

http://www.rem870.com/2010/12/02/how-to-restore-a-shotgun-rust-bluing/

TriggerPL

anthonyos wrote: »

has any body ever restored a shotgun??? mine is a bit rough was thinking of doing a job on it without it ending up to tacky...i think the previous owner may have done some work on it..

4200fps got his restored by a man in Donegal and it looks better that I'd say it did out of the factory

blackstairsboy

Restored the timber work on an old side by side a few years back. The barrels were in good nick but the timber was in a bad way. I stripped it back and sanded out the scratches, cleaned out the chequering and refinished it. It did come up lovely and when I traded it in I made a few pound on it. Not anything to make it worth while but I did not lose money. It did take time though and you cannot rush a job like that.

As regards metal work I have never done anything to a gun. I would be afraid to to be honest.

Grizzly 45

anthonyos wrote: »

has any body ever restored a shotgun??? mine is a bit rough was thinking of doing a job on it without it ending up to tacky...i think the previous owner may have done some work on it..

Depends on what type of gun it is too.It it is somthing collectable,there is no quicker way of destroying its value by trying to get it back up to its original finish.

323

Grizzly 45 wrote: »

Depends on what type of gun it is too.It it is somthing collectable,there is no quicker way of destroying its value by trying to get it back up to its original finish.

Agree with Grizzly 45 on this.

Although have done a few rifles and shotguns, my own to get rid of the dented and cracked hard glaze finish that browning used in the 70's and 80's. They now have an oil finish.

Nothing difficult about it but as blackstairsboy said, take your time, have seen a few stocks ruined by rushing and using very coarse sandpaper. Personally would not start with anything coarser than than 200 and very quickly move to much finer. Depends on the look and type of finish you want.

Before beginning sanding use steam to raise out any dents and scratches. Use sandpaper (or steel wool) to remove the finish, do not want to remove wood.

anthonyos

its an old baikal if it wasnt to much hassel id like to redo the wood work..how is the chequeing cleaned out ???could i oil the stock or is it varish id have to use/???if its to much hassel i wouldnt bother i plan on trading up sometime next year

snipe02

anthonyos wrote: »

its an old baikal if it wasnt to much hassel id like to redo the wood work..how is the chequeing cleaned out ???could i oil the stock or is it varish id have to use/???if its to much hassel i wouldnt bother i plan on trading up sometime next year

did mine a while ago this is how i did it
nitro morse to remove any existing finish follow instructions on tin and treat with white spirits to remove and residue from the nitro morse
then sand smooth with as fine a sandpaper as possible removing any left over stain or laquer
then use a wet towel and the wifes iron to raise any dents this will raise the grain in the wood also
when happy happy all scratches and dents are gone back to the sand paper as light as possible again and sand smooth
choose what ever finish you want i went for oil

i also used a torch flame to darken the wood because it was plain a light sanding after is required make b sure not to char the wood

i used danish oil for the finish you can get one for wall nut its darker
i rubbed it in with my hands and gave 5-6 coats sanding between each

not able too put up pics but was very happy with patients is the key i didnt know what iwas doing so just took my time

Grizzly 45

anthonyos wrote: »

its an old baikal if it wasnt to much hassel id like to redo the wood work..how is the chequeing cleaned out ???could i oil the stock or is it varish id have to use/???if its to much hassel i wouldnt bother i plan on trading up sometime next year

Chequering is proably the hardest to redo with out the proper tools.
As such it isnt cleaned out ,but recut into the wood to bring it up again.
Somthing best left to a gunsmith or stock maker.
The stock can be oil finished,which iNMHO is a much better and durable finish than varnish stocks and alot easier to repair and maintain.
As its a Baikal, you can play away with it and use it as a learning experiance for all sorts of finishes on wood and metal.

anthonyos

how about the blueing did you do it yourself

4200fps

anthonyos wrote: »

has any body ever restored a shotgun??? mine is a bit rough was thinking of doing a job on it without it ending up to tacky...i think the previous owner may have done some work on it..

Eamon Galvin is your only man who knows how to restore a gun to the highest standard

anthonyos

4200fps wrote: »

Eamon Galvin is your only man who knows how to restore a gun to the highest standard

ye but its only an old gun so dont what to be spending to much on it was more thinking it as a diy effort ...

TriggerPL

anthonyos wrote: »

4200fps wrote: »

Eamon Galvin is your only man who knows how to restore a gun to the highest standard

ye but its only an old gun so dont what to be spending to much on it was more thinking it as a diy effort ...

At the most your looking at 150 and he does an out standing job you wont believe it your gun

anthonyos

TriggerPL wrote: »

At the most your looking at 150 and he does an out standing job you wont believe it your gun

150 is a good price does he do the blueing for that..another thing is the gun is a bit short for me so a picked up an entention recoil pad its one of those rubber sock jobs it looks kind of crap is there a better solution that looks better

TriggerPL

anthonyos wrote: »

TriggerPL wrote: »

At the most your looking at 150 and he does an out standing job you wont believe it your gun

150 is a good price does he do the blueing for that..another thing is the gun is a bit short for me so a picked up an entention recoil pad its one of those rubber sock jobs it looks kind of crap is there a better solution that looks better

4200fps is the lad to chat to he gots his done barrel blued and stock done he recarved it all by hand as well is look like new , I was stunned when I seen it compared to what it was . If ya call the man he would advise you on the stock

Double Barrel

anthony

Many old stocks and forends are just plain dirty with years of gun oil, earth, blood and what have you, in other words, crud.

If you are comfortable doing it, remove the stock from the action. If not, stop. Take the gun to a pro.

If you are comfortable doing it, remove the stock from the action.

Grind a couple three old screwdrivers to tightly fit a different screw head, slot depth, and width for the screws holding the metal to the wood and the metal to metal parts.

Be very careful not to bugger the screws.

Carefully - Strip the gun down to it's component parts.

Clean the old stock oil/varnished finish with warm soapy water and a green sponge or 000 steel wool so you have a view of what you have.

The head of stock - will more than likely be saturated (to some degree) with gun oil - the oil needs to be removed. Use "Whiting" to help absorb the oil - Whiting is a powdered and washed white chalk (calcium carbonate) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whiting .

Double Barrel

As others have mentioned strippers. Not the long legged variety I'm afraid.

Worst case: Nitromors or a quality stripper or your choice, you will probably require two sessions with that. The trick being to really dab it on thick, wait for the first application to start working, and then add the second, then wash off.
I then proceeded to get as many of the dents and scratches out. Using an Iron and damp cloth, placing the cloth over the dent and then applying the iron. Where required I pin prick the dent with a small needle to get the heat into it.

The stock can now be taken to a stocker or gunsmith for re-checkering.