What type of Magnolia and how to prune

Monsclara

Hello all
I have a Magnolia tree in my front garden. It is a lovely tree, but it is outgrowing the garden. Can anybody advise what type it is (pics attached) and suggestions about pruning. I've read lots of stuff that magnolias don't like to be pruned and I don't want to kill it, but I need to work out what I can do with it. It's about 7/8 years old.

Thank you

lottpaul

The best way to identify a magnolia is from a full, open flower. Their foliage looks much the same on all varieties.
Pruning should be done from mid-summer to autumn -- I'd say from July to August - and shouldn't be too severe.
They will recover better if you can prune a section at a time over a few years. From your photo that may not be possible but the only thing they hate more than pruning is being transplanted -- so you may have a decision to make.
They will take some pruning so if you like the plant go with that for a while and see how it goes. It may be tougher than we think. I have one in my garden that was cut in half when a huge branch fell on it a couple of years ago -- and it's thriving!

Oldtree

A very nice plant, it must look lovely in full flower. Shame to cut it at all, but you might prefer the idea of maintaining it at its present size or only slightly smaller, ie thats all the space you get...!

Most plants already of this size and shape lend themselves to a sort of balloon shape if maintained regularly. This type of maintainance is a form of Topiary. Normally one pruning a year should do it and dont fertilize unless plant looking enemic.

Pruning trees is best done in winter and secondly in summer, avoiding autumn and spring. I find that pruning in winter makes it much easier to see the outline and shape that you are trying to prune to. Target pruning is the appropiate method to use on a tree.

Monsclara

lottpaul wrote: »

The best way to identify a magnolia is from a full, open flower. Their foliage looks much the same on all varieties.
Pruning should be done from mid-summer to autumn -- I'd say from July to August - and shouldn't be too severe.
They will recover better if you can prune a section at a time over a few years. From your photo that may not be possible but the only thing they hate more than pruning is being transplanted -- so you may have a decision to make.
They will take some pruning so if you like the plant go with that for a while and see how it goes. It may be tougher than we think. I have one in my garden that was cut in half when a huge branch fell on it a couple of years ago -- and it's thriving!

Thanks lottpaul - it's good to know they are a bit tough - most websites talk about how fragile they are when it comes to pruning. I will definitely try and keep it as I don't have room for it anywhere else, but if it gets much bigger, it will block the light coming into the house, whilst it has its summer foliage.
I've attached a pic of the very last bloom (today) which is almost gone and an earlier pic with the wisteria, but it doesn't really demonstrate the flower.

Monsclara

Oldtree wrote: »

A very nice plant, it must look lovely in full flower. Shame to cut it at all, but you might prefer the idea of maintaining it at its present size or only slightly smaller, ie thats all the space you get...!

Most plants already of this size and shape lend themselves to a sort of balloon shape if maintained regularly. This type of maintainance is a form of Topiary. Normally one pruning a year should do it and dont fertilize unless plant looking enemic.

Pruning trees is best done in winter and secondly in summer, avoiding autumn and spring. I find that pruning in winter makes it much easier to see the outline and shape that you are trying to prune to. Target pruning is the appropiate method to use on a tree.

Yes, it is lovely and even without the flower, I still love it. But it blocks the light to the house when it has all its foliage, so I need to contain it to its current size or less. When I went to look at pruning it at the weekend, I simply didn't know where to start. Leaving it to winter time is a preferable option because there is so much foliage right now, and I'm no expert at pruning, I'd be worried I would hack it to bits. But the websites suggest pruning straight after flowering to "allow any bleeds to heal before the winter frost". But I will be happy to take your advice as most of the websites were US based where the climate is different.

bmaxi

It looks like Magnolia Susan. Now is the ideal time to prune but as already said, don't go mad. If you have to prune magnolias, they're in the wrong place, best to do it over a few years but I would think about attempting to move it or cutting your losses and getting a new plant in April.

lottpaul

bmaxi wrote: »

It looks like Magnolia Susan. Now is the ideal time to prune but as already said, don't go mad.

Yes, it could be Susan and good advice on the pruning.
You'll find a good selection and some extra advice on the RHS site.

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/plantselector/searchbynameresults?nm=magnolia

Monsclara

bmaxi wrote: »

It looks like Magnolia Susan. Now is the ideal time to prune but as already said, don't go mad. If you have to prune magnolias, they're in the wrong place, best to do it over a few years but I would think about attempting to move it or cutting your losses and getting a new plant in April.

Thanks bmaxi, but I've read that advice about it being in the wrong place so many times. No doubt its true but a little late for my situation.:(
I'll attempt to prune it and I guess if I destroy it, then I'll have to move it. For me, plants are a bit like books - very reluctant to get rid of them.

Oldtree

Taking your origional photos i used paintshop to draw a rough line that gives you a rough idea of where you can easily prune to and still retain the asthetic of the plant. Pick a start point and work your way around the plant. Keep taking steps back to ensure you are getting a sort of rounded lolipop appearance or you may decide to just shorten back the longer branches to behind the line leaving the shorter ones to be pruned next year.





It is important to cut close to a bud or just above where a leaf joins the branch, with no tears (!!! tares...) and that your scatures are sharp. have patience and if unsure then take a step back and have another think and a cup of tea. But your plant looks in fine health so I think that it will recover easily from any over enthusiastic pruning.

bmaxi

It's also worth remembering that, like apples, hard pruning can produce whips or watershoots that will never produce the lovely blooms you want and will require further pruning in the future.

Monsclara

Oldtree wrote: »

Taking your origional photos i used paintshop to draw a rough line that gives you a rough idea of where you can easily prune to and still retain the asthetic of the plant. Pick a start point and work your way around the plant. Keep taking steps back to ensure you are getting a sort of rounded lolipop appearance or you may decide to just shorten back the longer branches to behind the line leaving the shorter ones to be pruned next year.





It is important to cut close to a bud or just above where a leaf joins the branch, with no tears and that your scatures are sharp. have patience and if unsure then take a step back and have another think and a cup of tea. But your plant looks in fine health so I think that it will recover easily from any over enthusiastic pruning.

Oldtree - thanks for going to that trouble. Am planning on getting out there this evening. I'll post a couple of pics if I haven't made a total mess of it.

Monsclara

bmaxi wrote: »

It's also worth remembering that, like apples, hard pruning can produce whips or watershoots that will never produce the lovely blooms you want and will require further pruning in the future.

Bmaxi - I read about that, so will try and limit the exercise. Will post pics later.

Oldtree

Monsclara wrote: »

Oldtree - thanks for going to that trouble. Am planning on getting out there this evening. I'll post a couple of pics if I haven't made a total mess of it.

The only way to learn is to do it and dont worry it will grow back or be a steep learning curve.

My ethos, "thats as big as you get, dont like that pruning - then I'll replace you...!"

Monsclara

Oldtree wrote: »

The only way to learn is to do it and dont worry it will grow back or be a steep learning curve.

My ethos, "thats as big as you get, dont like that pruning - then I'll replace you...!"

Well............it's done! A little nervous about posting the pics as promised. The one side on (mag 2) looks worse than it is as I can't stand back far enough from the tree to get a good pic. I started on this side and went in low, realising that this wasn't a good idea, as it looks a little empty now. One thing I learned - I'd hate to be a hair stylist - the pressure of what the result will look like!!:D

Oldtree

now that looks nicely done, good effort. This trim will encourage the plant to bush out a bit and fill any gaps.

lottpaul

Looks fine to me too -- plenty of foliage left and it will bush out again. Do an annual prune to keep it in check and all should be fine