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roadside puncture fixing - advice?

  • 05-05-2012 11:42am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,441 ✭✭✭


    Punctured on my MTB this morning on a downhill in a remote location in Wicklow. I had my kit and mini pump but no spare tube (lesson learned). I was c. 15 mins drive from home, but the OH wasn't answering the phone so a fix attempt would have to be made.

    Had difficulty finding the puncture. Swirling breeze was loud so trying to hear where the air was escaping was problematic. A nearby puddle got me out of a spot. However, found there were 2 holes, so 2 patches needed, and I didn't have great confidence that they'd hold as 1 was near the seam.

    Hold they did but I only pumped the tire enough to get home. What do other people do when they fix? Do you pump it up as hard as possible or play safe?

    What patches would people recommend? Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 178 ✭✭Redmond101


    Your best bet us just to carry spare tubes, I wouldn't ever really attempt doing a patch on a spin, would tak the best part of 15-20min whereas tube is a quick 2 min job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    I usually pump the tyre up hard after putting a patch on. A properly applied patch should hold securely on the tube so you shouldn't have to worry about it leaking if you pump the tube up to your usual presssure. I carry spare tubes these days but only to save time on the roadside, for years I just carried a repair kit and fixed punctures as I needed to. I still carry patches now (self-adhesive ones though, just for convenience) in addition to 2 spare tubes, because my alternative is calling for a taxi if I can't get the bike on the road again.

    In terms of patches I've used a variety of types over the years, from cheap rolls that you cut up as required, to vulcanising patches with tapered edges. I don't find a whole lot of difference between them. I think that the biggest factor is technique - if you don't sand/roughen the tube enough, use too much or too little glue, apply the patch while the glue is too wet or too dry, etc., then the patch is much more likely to not adhere properly. Self-adhesive patches work well when they work but I've found them hit and miss so they are a last resort only. Repairing a puncture using glue and patch takes less than 5mins on a good day, longer with cold hands and fingers though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,441 ✭✭✭Slogger Jogger


    Thanks guys. A lesson I learned this morning too was ensuring I wore enough layers. When I stopped I would have been in trouble without my wind breaker. I got through to my OH on the phone and had her prepared to drive to collect me when I managed to get a fix done and it held, so called her off. Got home, and fully inflated tire with a decent pump this time and its held firm. Guess I should have more confidence in my fixing ability.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭Hungrycol


    Heard those self adhesive aren't great for MTB's because the tyre pressure isn't high enough to really press it against the tyre and seal it properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater


    What do other people do when they fix? Do you pump it up as hard as possible or play safe?

    What patches would people recommend? Thanks.
    Curious as to why you wouldn't pump it back up to the correct pressure (or as close as your pump will get)?
    Personally on the mtb I recommend going tubeless.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    + 1 on tubeless.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,158 ✭✭✭Tenzor07


    Yup, tubes on mtb wheels is gone the way of the dinosaur...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 815 ✭✭✭mp31


    Tenzor07 wrote: »
    Yup, tubes on mtb wheels is gone the way of the dinosaur...

    Silly question but... if you get a puncture in a tubeless tyre then you still have to fix the hole in the tyre... or am I missing something here? :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater


    mp31 wrote: »
    Tenzor07 wrote: »
    Yup, tubes on mtb wheels is gone the way of the dinosaur...

    Silly question but... if you get a puncture in a tubeless tyre then you still have to fix the hole in the tyre... or am I missing something here? :confused:
    Look for the videos on the stans no tubes website - nails and screwdrivers apparently without problems.
    Only dealt with thorns and glass myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    mp31 wrote: »
    Silly question but... if you get a puncture in a tubeless tyre then you still have to fix the hole in the tyre... or am I missing something here? :confused:

    With tubeless tyres and Stan's (or similar) liquid in the tyre, when you puncture, the liquid seals the hole, before the tyre deflates. You sometimes hear air hissing out for a second before the tyre seals. Plus you don't get pinch
    punctures. Way to go. I still cary a spare tube and minipump (belt and braces)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    Definitely go tubeless on the MTB. I carry a tyre repair patch, 2 tubes plus pump and CO2. I've had a tyre rip before and my fluid was no good as it all sprayed out in seconds, hence the patch now.
    If you're on tubes, just carry a couple with you as its far easier and quicker to replace a tube than fix one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,441 ✭✭✭Slogger Jogger


    Idleater wrote: »
    Curious as to why you wouldn't pump it back up to the correct pressure (or as close as your pump will get)?
    Personally on the mtb I recommend going tubeless.

    I didn't trust that I'd fixed the punctures adequately to be honest, so played on the safe side with the pressure.

    Thanks all for the advice. Will restock at the bike shop during the week.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    I learned a lesson tonight. Got a puncture. Stuck the first of my 2 spare tubes in but it kept losing air so I presumed I had forgotten to fix it previously. Stuck the 2nd spare in and the same thing happened.

    Then it dawned on me that I hadn't checked the inside of the tyre. A nice piece of wire had penetrated right through the tyre and about 3mm into the inside. I just ruined 2 good tubes!


  • Administrators Posts: 54,424 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    I learned a lesson tonight. Got a puncture. Stuck the first of my 2 spare tubes in but it kept losing air so I presumed I had forgotten to fix it previously. Stuck the 2nd spare in and the same thing happened.

    Then it dawned on me that I hadn't checked the inside of the tyre. A nice piece of wire had penetrated right through the tyre and about 3mm into the inside. I just ruined 2 good tubes!

    Ouch! :(


    I'm new to cycling, so if I got a puncture when out I'd be screwed. Wouldn't really know what to do. Should probably read up on that!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    awec wrote: »
    I'm new to cycling, so if I got a puncture when out I'd be screwed. Wouldn't really know what to do. Should probably read up on that!
    Reading up is never the same as doing it. Buy a spare tube and have a go at home. Let the air out of a tyre (preferably the rear as it's more difficult to change) and practise taking off the tyre, replacing the tube and re-inflating it again. It will give you more confidence for when it really happens.

    If you have a nice bike and don't wish to destroy the bar tape, it's a good idea to carry some disposable surgical/examination gloves with you as the wheel/tyre may be dirty and you may have to handle the chain.


  • Administrators Posts: 54,424 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Reading up is never the same as doing it. Buy a spare tube and have a go at home. Let the air out of a tyre (preferably the rear as it's more difficult to change) and practise taking off the tyre, replacing the tube and re-inflating it again. It will give you more confidence for when it really happens.

    If you have a nice bike and don't wish to destroy the bar tape, it's a good idea to carry some disposable surgical/examination gloves with you as the wheel/tyre may be dirty and you may have to handle the chain.
    Will try that!

    Need to get myself a pump too. How hard is it to get to the required pressure with a hand pump (maybe a stupid question - you can tell I'm new! :o ) ?

    Also need to figure out what size of tubes I need! :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    awec wrote: »
    Will try that!

    Need to get myself a pump too. How hard is it to get to the required pressure with a hand pump (maybe a stupid question - you can tell I'm new! :o ) ?


    Its easy, though its all practice. Some tyres are more stubborn then others to get on. Schwalbe Marathons are a right pain to get on. A decent tyre lever is a must unless you want to wreck the joints in your fingers.

    Another tip that took me years to cop - shift to the smallest cog on the back and the smallest chainring up front, gives you loads of slack chain to work the wheel through.

    How hard with a mini pump? I personally have never seen a decent minipump. A frame pump is my preferred weapon - a 22 year old Zefal HPX, much easier to get up to pressure. If you can find on of those pumps I would recommend it.


  • Subscribers Posts: 19,425 ✭✭✭✭Oryx


    I can't get to 100 psi with a hand pump but I get it good enough to get home. The problem my little weak hands have is getting that last bit of the tyre onto the rim. I probably just need more practice...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    awec wrote: »
    How hard is it to get to the required pressure with a hand pump
    With my mini-pump I can only really get to about 70psi which is a long way from 120 and leaves me susceptible to further flats. I'm thinking about trying the CO2 cannisters but don't know much about them.
    BX 19 wrote: »
    Schwalbe Marathons are a right pain to get on
    There're tough alright but in fairness they are designed not to puncture. The last pair I had (on an old hybrid) never let me down over several thoudand kms.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    With my mini-pump I can only really get to about 70psi which is a long way from 120 and leaves me susceptible to further flats. I'm thinking about trying the CO2 cannisters but don't know much about them.

    There're tough alright but in fairness they are designed not to puncture. The last pair I had (on an old hybrid) never let me down over several thoudand kms.


    They are bombproof tough rubber. I two tyre levers getting them on though :D

    I'm going to get either one of these or some of these


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    BX 19 wrote: »
    They are bombproof tough rubber. I two tyre levers getting them on though :D
    If you're putting them on at home use cable ties to secure and squeeze the tyre as you work around the rim. The cable ties provide stability and a little 'slack' making it much easier to complete the fitting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,893 ✭✭✭Canis Lupus


    This is my pump. Airwave Mini Works like a mini track pump and I love it. Haven't actually checked what it pumps to but it's rated for 140psi.


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