Funny alternator problem? Clio Mk1

Mycroft H

Bit of a funny one tonight. Diagnosed a dead alternator the other day but I'm not too sure as to whats going on now.

Last week the battery light came on while driving. I had previously left the lights on and ran the battery out overnight. When I found this I replaced the battery with one that had been charging overnight. All well so far.

However, about half an hour into the journey my battery light comes intermittently on (usefully just after I entered a motorway...). It would flash for 10 or so seconds and then go out. Managed to get to a petrol station where when I tried to restart the engine, the starter would just click. Great dead alternator I thought.

Managed to jump it to a friends house where I was staying for the week to catch the train into college. On the friday, I plonked a fresh battery that had been charging for 13+ hours and the engine fired up happily. During the journey home the battery light remained off.

The next day the alternator just dies. I attached a voltmeter and there was just 12.2v~ and the battery light was on full time now.

Moving on to today (about a week since I touched it last as I'm up to my neck in college work) the alternator seems to live again. However the alternator is now putting out between 14.8-15.3v at idle and less at a higher engine speed. The lights are also flickering in time with the fluctuation in voltage (this used to be present even before all these issues but more noticeable now)

I've attached a video (please forgive youtubes crappy uploading for flipping the video....) Its dark so I can demonstrate the light flicker.

My personal guess is that the voltage regulator is gone haywire. But I'm looking for second opinions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQs0AepjB9U

BX 19

BX 19 wrote: »

..........

However, about half an hour into the journey my battery light comes intermittently on (usefully just after I entered a motorway...). It would flash for 10 or so seconds and then go out. Managed to get to a petrol station where when I tried to restart the engine, the starter would just click. Great dead alternator I thought. ........................


My personal guess is that the voltage regulator is gone haywire. But I'm looking for second opinions.

Not a clue to be honest about what's specifically wrong to bring on the alt light permanently but it's very strange imo that last week the battery was dead after the light not being on that much. When the light is off the alternator is happy out and the battery is charging.

The lights dimming and getting more intense in line with engine revs defo point to the alternator though as you say.

Pottler

No idea whats wrong with your alternator, but that watch you have in the video is definitly fecked. Times all over the place.

Mycroft H

Its a very simple car electronically. No ECU that I know of. No immobiliser ect. Just a simple carburettor small petrol engine.

Can't be too much to go wrong?

Mycroft H

Pottler wrote: »

No idea whats wrong with your alternator, but that watch you have in the video is definitly fecked. Times all over the place.

but thats a digital voltmeter.

Pottler

BX 19 wrote: »

I hope your taking the piss, but thats a digital voltmeter.

I know, but I thought the watch bit was funnier. Could probably just be me though! Get the alternator overhauled -Balfes are good, could be a failing reg, on its way out but functioning intermittently- could also be a crap connection at the fusebox as well or a loose wire somwhere - tug things a bit and do some tracing. And get a new watch.

Pdfile

BX 19 wrote: »

I hope your taking the piss, but thats a digital voltmeter.

only problem i heard of these is the engine shorting, Fried wires needing tidying ( or so i was told, im not a mechanic ) perhaps thats playing a role in the deading of the voltage thus troubles ?


im assuming its a 1.2 8v ??

Mycroft H

Pottler wrote: »

BX 19 wrote: »

I hope your taking the piss, but thats a digital voltmeter.

I know, but I thought the watch bit was funnier. Could probably just be me though! Get the alternator overhauled -Balfes are good, could be a failing reg, on its way out but functioning intermittently- could also be a crap connection at the fusebox as well or a loose wire somwhere - tug things a bit and do some tracing. And get a new watch.

I did laugh though!

Mycroft H

Pdfile wrote: »

BX 19 wrote: »

I hope your taking the piss, but thats a digital voltmeter.

only problem i heard of these is the engine shorting, Fried wires needing tidying ( or so i was told, im not a mechanic ) perhaps thats playing a role in the deading of the voltage thus troubles ?


im assuming its a 1.2 8v ??

No its the 1400cc version. Though they are the exact same engine just they have a longer stroke.

Looks like I have a bit of detective work to do. Lastly it's hardly normal for an alternator to give out 15+ volts? I always thought the range was 13.4-14.6v

MugMugs

BX 19 wrote: »

No ECU that I know of.

Sure about that?

Mycroft H

MugMugs wrote: »

Sure about that?

I don't think so. From what the internet is telling me there is one one the fuel injected version of the 1.4 but not on the carburettor version. If there is one, its currently winning at hide and seek.

Just to clarify, is the alternator light on now or not?

Mycroft H

RoverJames wrote: »

Just to clarify, is the alternator light on now or not?

At the moment it is happily ticking over like in the video. Battery light out.

stimpson

Pottler wrote: »

Get the alternator overhauled -Balfes are good,

Balfe are bloody expensive. €180 + old alternator for a reconned unit.

EMR off Dorset St quoted me €100 to rewind my own. http://m.goldenpages.ie/detail/0dd3db481da5475ab9a5b74f0d290923

Man of Aran

As suggested, process of elimination working from basic things up to the complicated.

Loose terminals/ plugs or bad / loose wiring incl good battery leads, no sulphating: how are ALL the chassis grounds too : check for parasitic current draws with engine off (search on YouTube for great vids) : did you drive through floods or any unusual issues recently : could be worn brushes or bad contact on slip rings : diode pack or regulator ( so essentially get an exchange / reconditioned alternator)

Mycroft H

I should mention that all the chassis earthing points (body/g'box/subframe) have been cleaned for good contact. That was my first idea. I'll have a check with the multimeter for any parasite currents. (I don't think that there will be any, the is feck all electric in the car)

Pottler

Could be that fancy watch you keep connecting up to it thats flattening the battery. Balfes are dear, but they are also the only ones I know in Dublin. I use a crowd in Naas beside RFL that are cheaper, but not that much so. How much is an alternator online? Might be the way to go. Do GSF do them?

Nissan doctor

BX 19 wrote: »

No its the 1400cc version. Though they are the exact same engine just they have a longer stroke.

Looks like I have a bit of detective work to do. Lastly it's hardly normal for an alternator to give out 15+ volts? I always thought the range was 13.4-14.6v

Are you getting 15+ volts from it?

2 stroke

If the battery is weak in the multi meter, it could be over reading the voltage. I've been fooled by this before.

johnayo

2 stroke wrote: »

If the battery is weak in the multi meter, it could be over reading the voltage. I've been fooled by this before.

Seen that one before as well.

Mycroft H

Nissan doctor wrote: »

Are you getting 15+ volts from it?

As in the video, on occasion at idle you get 15+V from it.

Battery is fresh enough on the multimeter. Its a Lab standard Fluke multimeter so its accurate is you can get.

stimpson wrote: »

Balfe are bloody expensive. €180 + old alternator for a reconned unit.

EMR off Dorset St quoted me €100 to rewind my own. http://m.goldenpages.ie/detail/0dd3db481da5475ab9a5b74f0d290923

Maynooth Auto Electrics wanted 90 euro for a reconditioned one (you didn't need to give them one...)

If you gave them one, they would swap out the dud parts and refit it for less then the 90 euro (though he said if everything needed to be replaced that it would cost 90 euros)


Further Edit:

I checked earlier for any parasite currents. No draw on the battery when the ignition is off.

Nissan doctor

There should never be readings of over 15v, regulator problem still seems the most likely cause, especially since its a very basic charging system.

Mycroft H

Nissan doctor wrote: »

There should never be readings of over 15v, regulator problem still seems the most likely cause, especially since its a very basic charging system.

Fortunately the voltage regulator is a cheaper to replace, so I'm going to try that first.

Taking the thing off requires removal of the inlet manifold which is a pain. Ahh well....